100% found this document useful (2 votes)

61 views

Download Expert Scripting and Automation for SQL Server DBAs 1st Edition Peter A. Carter (Auth.) ebook All Chapters PDF

Server

Uploaded by

amaikefutaki

We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.

Available Formats

Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd

100% found this document useful (2 votes)

61 views

Download Expert Scripting and Automation for SQL Server DBAs 1st Edition Peter A. Carter (Auth.) ebook All Chapters PDF

Server

Uploaded by

amaikefutaki

We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.

Available Formats

Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd

You are on page 1/ 65

Download the Full Version of textbook for Fast Typing at textbookfull.

com

Expert Scripting and Automation for SQL Server

DBAs 1st Edition Peter A. Carter (Auth.)

https://textbookfull.com/product/expert-scripting-and-
automation-for-sql-server-dbas-1st-edition-peter-a-carter-
auth/

OR CLICK BUTTON

DOWNLOAD NOW

Download More textbook Instantly Today - Get Yours Now at textbookfull.com

Recommended digital products (PDF, EPUB, MOBI) that
you can download immediately if you are interested.

Expert Scripting and Automation for SQL Server DBAs

Springerlink (Online Service)

https://textbookfull.com/product/expert-scripting-and-automation-for-
sql-server-dbas-springerlink-online-service/

textboxfull.com

Securing SQL Server: DBAs Defending the Database 2nd

Edition Peter A. Carter

https://textbookfull.com/product/securing-sql-server-dbas-defending-
the-database-2nd-edition-peter-a-carter/

textboxfull.com

Expert SQL Server Transactions and Locking: Concurrency

Internals for SQL Server Practitioners 1st Edition Dmitri
Korotkevitch
https://textbookfull.com/product/expert-sql-server-transactions-and-
locking-concurrency-internals-for-sql-server-practitioners-1st-
edition-dmitri-korotkevitch/
textboxfull.com

Practical Maintenance Plans in SQL Server Automation for

the DBA Beard

https://textbookfull.com/product/practical-maintenance-plans-in-sql-
server-automation-for-the-dba-beard/

textboxfull.com
Expert SQL Server In-Memory OLTP 2nd Edition Dmitri
Korotkevitch

https://textbookfull.com/product/expert-sql-server-in-memory-oltp-2nd-
edition-dmitri-korotkevitch/

textboxfull.com

Practical Maintenance Plans in SQL Server Automation for

the DBA 1st Edition Bradley Beard

https://textbookfull.com/product/practical-maintenance-plans-in-sql-
server-automation-for-the-dba-1st-edition-bradley-beard/

textboxfull.com

SQL Server Execution Plans For SQL Server 2008 through to

2017 and Azure SQL Database 3rd Edition Grant Fritchey

https://textbookfull.com/product/sql-server-execution-plans-for-sql-
server-2008-through-to-2017-and-azure-sql-database-3rd-edition-grant-
fritchey/
textboxfull.com

Expert T-SQL Window Functions in SQL Server 2019: The

Hidden Secret to Fast Analytic and Reporting Queries Kathi
Kellenberger
https://textbookfull.com/product/expert-t-sql-window-functions-in-sql-
server-2019-the-hidden-secret-to-fast-analytic-and-reporting-queries-
kathi-kellenberger/
textboxfull.com

Azure SQL Revealed: A Guide to the Cloud for SQL Server

Professionals 1st Edition Bob Ward

https://textbookfull.com/product/azure-sql-revealed-a-guide-to-the-
cloud-for-sql-server-professionals-1st-edition-bob-ward/

textboxfull.com
T H E E X P E R T ’S V O I C E ® I N S Q L S E R V E R

Expert Scripting
and Automation
for SQL Server
DBAs
Amplifying your personal productivity
and impact as a database administrator
—
Peter A. Carter
Expert Scripting and
Automation for SQL
Server DBAs

Peter A. Carter
Expert Scripting and Automation for SQL Server DBAs
Peter A. Carter
Botley
United Kingdom
ISBN-13 (pbk): 978-1-4842-1942-3 ISBN-13 (electronic): 978-1-4842-1943-0
DOI 10.1007/978-1-4842-1943-0
Library of Congress Control Number: 2016948124
Copyright © 2016 by Peter A. Carter
This work is subject to copyright. All rights are reserved by the Publisher, whether the whole or part of the material is
concerned, specifically the rights of translation, reprinting, reuse of illustrations, recitation, broadcasting, reproduction
on microfilms or in any other physical way, and transmission or information storage and retrieval, electronic
adaptation, computer software, or by similar or dissimilar methodology now known or hereafter developed. Exempted
from this legal reservation are brief excerpts in connection with reviews or scholarly analysis or material supplied
specifically for the purpose of being entered and executed on a computer system, for exclusive use by the purchaser
of the work. Duplication of this publication or parts thereof is permitted only under the provisions of the Copyright
Law of the Publisher’s location, in its current version, and permission for use must always be obtained from Springer.
Permissions for use may be obtained through RightsLink at the Copyright Clearance Center. Violations are liable to
prosecution under the respective Copyright Law.
Trademarked names, logos, and images may appear in this book. Rather than use a trademark symbol with every
occurrence of a trademarked name, logo, or image, we use the names, logos, and images only in an editorial fashion
and to the benefit of the trademark owner, with no intention of infringement of the trademark.
The use in this publication of trade names, trademarks, service marks, and similar terms, even if they are not identified
as such, is not to be taken as an expression of opinion as to whether or not they are subject to proprietary rights.
While the advice and information in this book are believed to be true and accurate at the date of publication, neither
the author nor the editors nor the publisher can accept any legal responsibility for any errors or omissions that may
be made. The publisher makes no warranty, express or implied, with respect to the material contained herein.
Managing Director: Welmoed Spahr
Lead Editor: Jonathan Gennick
Technical Reviewer: Philip Browne
Editorial Board: Steve Anglin, Pramila Balen, Laura Berendson, Aaron Black, Louise Corrigan, Jim DeWolf,
Jonathan Gennick, Robert Hutchinson, Celestin Suresh John, James Markham, Susan McDermott,
Matthew Moodie, Natalie Pao, Ben Renow-Clarke, Gwenan Spearing
Coordinating Editor: Jill Balzano
Copy Editor: Michael G. Laraque
Compositor: SPi Global
Indexer: SPi Global
Artist: SPi Global
Distributed to the book trade worldwide by Springer Science+Business Media New York, 233 Spring Street,
6th Floor, New York, NY 10013. Phone 1-800-SPRINGER, fax (201) 348-4505, e-mail orders-ny@springer-sbm.
com, or visit www.springer.com. Apress Media, LLC is a California LLC and the sole member (owner) is Springer
Science+Business Media Finance Inc (SSBM Finance Inc). SSBM Finance Inc is a Delaware corporation.
For information on translations, please e-mail rights@apress.com, or visit www.apress.com.
Apress and friends of ED books may be purchased in bulk for academic, corporate, or promotional use.
eBook versions and licenses are also available for most titles. For more information, reference our Special Bulk
Sales–eBook Licensing web page at www.apress.com/bulk-sales.
Any source code or other supplementary material referenced by the author in this text is available to readers at
www.apress.com. For detailed information about how to locate your book’s source code, go to
www.apress.com/source-code/.
Printed on acid-free paper
This book is dedicated to my wonderful children: Finola, Iris, and Reuben.
Contents at a Glance

About the Author ..................................................................................................... xi

About the Technical Reviewer ............................................................................... xiii
Introduction .............................................................................................................xv

■Chapter 1: T-SQL Techniques for DBAs .................................................................. 1

■Chapter 2: PowerShell Fundamentals ................................................................. 23
■Chapter 3: SQL Server Agent Multi-Server Environments ................................... 43
■Chapter 4: Metadata-Driven Automation ............................................................. 77
■Chapter 5: Automation Techniques with SSIS ................................................... 105
■Chapter 6: Building an Inventory Database ....................................................... 157
■Chapter 7: Automating Instance Builds ............................................................. 177
■Chapter 8: Driving Automation Through Monitoring ......................................... 205
■Chapter 9: Automating Routine Maintenance and Break/Fix Scenarios............ 253

Index ..................................................................................................................... 281

v
Contents

About the Author ..................................................................................................... xi

■Chapter 1: T-SQL Techniques for DBAs .................................................................. 1

Using the APPLY Operator ................................................................................................. 1
Understanding XML .......................................................................................................... 2
Converting Results Sets to XML ............................................................................................................. 4
Extracting Values from XML Documents............................................................................................... 17

Efficient Looping ............................................................................................................ 20

Summary ........................................................................................................................ 22
■Chapter 2: PowerShell Fundamentals ................................................................. 23
Getting Started with PowerShell .................................................................................... 23
PowerShell Environments..................................................................................................................... 23
Enabling Script Execution ..................................................................................................................... 26

Language Fundamentals ................................................................................................ 27

Comments ............................................................................................................................................ 27
Standards and Aliases .......................................................................................................................... 28
Data Types ............................................................................................................................................ 31
Variables ............................................................................................................................................... 31
Piping, Filtering, and Controlling Flow .................................................................................................. 33
Importing Modules................................................................................................................................ 37

vii
■ CONTENTS

sqlps Module .................................................................................................................. 38

Navigating an Instance ................................................................................................... 40
Summary ........................................................................................................................ 41
■Chapter 3: SQL Server Agent Multi-Server Environments ................................... 43
Using Central Management Servers............................................................................... 43
Registering a Central Management Server........................................................................................... 43
Creating Server Groups ........................................................................................................................ 45
Registering Servers .............................................................................................................................. 46
Using Central Management Servers ..................................................................................................... 47

Configuring Server Agent for Multi-Server Environments .............................................. 51

MSDB Roles .......................................................................................................................................... 52
Configuring Master and Target Server .................................................................................................. 53
Creating Multi-Server Jobs................................................................................................................... 61

Summary ........................................................................................................................ 75
■Chapter 4: Metadata-Driven Automation ............................................................. 77
Creating Intelligent Routines .......................................................................................... 77
Configuring a Consistent Port Number ................................................................................................. 77
Profiling an Instance Workload ............................................................................................................. 81
Query Store Metadata........................................................................................................................... 83
Dynamic Index Rebuilds ....................................................................................................................... 92
Enforcing Policies ................................................................................................................................. 96

Analyzing Performance Counters ................................................................................. 100

Summary ...................................................................................................................... 104
■Chapter 5: Automation Techniques with SSIS ................................................... 105
SSIS Concepts .............................................................................................................. 105
SSIS Components ............................................................................................................................... 105
Getting Started ................................................................................................................................... 106
Creating a Simple Package................................................................................................................. 108

viii
CONTENTS ■

Adding Extra Functionality ........................................................................................... 118

Creating Event Handlers ..................................................................................................................... 119
Run Against Each Server in the Enterprise ......................................................................................... 136

Automation Recipes ..................................................................................................... 140

Verifying Backups ............................................................................................................................... 140
Respond to Operating System Events ................................................................................................ 148

Summary ...................................................................................................................... 156

■Chapter 6: Building an Inventory Database ....................................................... 157
Inventory Database Platform Design ............................................................................ 157
Inventory Database Logical Design .............................................................................. 160
Normalization ..................................................................................................................................... 161
Testing Normalization ......................................................................................................................... 166

Inventory Database Physical Design ............................................................................ 169

Creating the Database .................................................................................................. 172
Summary ...................................................................................................................... 175
■Chapter 7: Automating Instance Builds ............................................................. 177
Building the Instance.................................................................................................... 177
Performing a Simple Installation ........................................................................................................ 180
Using a Configuration File................................................................................................................... 183
Parameterizing the Script ................................................................................................................... 192

Configuring the Instance .............................................................................................. 193

Configure Database Scoped Configurations ....................................................................................... 193
Configure the Port Number ................................................................................................................. 197

Updating the Inventory Database ................................................................................. 198

Orchestrating the Build ................................................................................................ 202
Summary ...................................................................................................................... 204

ix
■ CONTENTS

■Chapter 8: Driving Automation Through Monitoring ......................................... 205

Working with Data Collection and the Management Data Warehouse ......................... 205
Understanding Data Collection ........................................................................................................... 205
Simple Implementation of Management Data Warehouse ................................................................. 207
Custom Implementation of Management Data Warehouse ................................................................ 218

Advanced Monitoring Techniques................................................................................. 224

Architecting the Custom Collection Solution ...................................................................................... 224
Building the Solution .......................................................................................................................... 225

Using Monitoring to Drive Automation.......................................................................... 250

Summary ...................................................................................................................... 252
■Chapter 9: Automating Routine Maintenance and Break/Fix Scenarios............ 253
Automating Routine Maintenance ................................................................................ 253
Automating Patching Activity .............................................................................................................. 253
Automating Environment Refreshes ................................................................................................... 258

Automating Break/Fix Scenarios .................................................................................. 269

Designing a Response to 9002 Errors ................................................................................................ 270
Automating a Response to 9002 Errors .............................................................................................. 271

Summary ...................................................................................................................... 279

■Index .................................................................................................................. 281

x
About the Author

Peter A. Carter is an SQL Server expert with more than a decade of

experience in developing, administering, and architecting SQL Server
platforms, data-tier applications, and ETL solutions. Peter has a passion
for SQL Server and hopes that his enthusiasm for this technology helps or
inspires others.

xi
About the Technical Reviewer

Philip Browne has been in the IT industry for nearly 20 years, starting with
client and infrastructure solutions for business, with his main areas of
expertise being application development (VB, VB.NET), web technologies
and Microsoft SQL products, and developing and releasing various
software applications, front ends, and custom tools. Philip also has a real
passion for hardware and systems security. He currently holds various
Microsoft certifications and works as an applications developer with
Microsoft’s latest technologies, SQL products, T-SQL, SSIS, and SSRS for
Millbrook Industries HQ in Totton, Southampton, England, with a great
team. Philip can be reached at philip.browne@ntlworld.com.

xiii
Introduction

As the ratio of DBAs to supported instances and supported databases continues to drop, DBAs must look
to automation, to allow them to continue to improve or, in some cases, even offer the same level of service
to the business as they have historically. This book attempts to give DBAs the tools they need to implement
strategic automation solutions, using the Microsoft standard suite of tools, specifically, PowerShell, T-SQL,
and SQL Server Agent.
Some large enterprises will be lucky enough to have enterprise class monitoring and orchestration
toolsets at their disposal. Even if this is the case, DBAs should find the scripts and the ideas for automated
scenarios contained within this book useful, as they can be plugged into enterprise class toolsets, despite
this book focusing on DBA written orchestrations.
The majority of examples in this book, use the topology laid out in Figure 1.

Figure 1. Topology
xv
■ INTRODUCTION

ESASSMGMT1 is a management server, while ESPROD1, ESPROD2, and ESPROD3 represent servers used
by the business. Each server has a default instance of SQL Server 2016 installed, both the instances
host a copy of the AdventureWorks2016 database. The AdventureWorks2016 database can be downloaded
from www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=49502.
If you wish to follow the examples and demonstrations in this book, you may choose to configure a
similar topology, or you can simply change the server\instance and database names in the script.
As you move through the book, you will create further instances, in order to learn the skills required
for automating instance builds. In Chapter 9, you will also learn how to automate patching routines. For
this demonstration, I use two SQL Server 2014 instances called ESPRODSQL14_001\SQL14INSTANCE1 and
ESPRODSQL14_001\SQL14INSTANCE2. SQL Server 2014 instances were used for this demonstration, due to
no SQL Server 2016 patches being available at the time of writing. When following the demonstrations,
however, you may choose to use either SQL Server 2014 or existing SQL Server 2016 instances that you have
used in other chapters of the book (subject to availability of patches).

xvi
CHAPTER 1

T-SQL Techniques for DBAs

As a DBA, you will almost certainly understand the basics of the T-SQL language and use it for querying
metadata views, such as sys.databases or sys.tables. Often, DBAs do not have advanced T-SQL
skills, however, as they do not need them in day-to-day operations. In order to implement sophisticated
automation and, in turn, reduce operational costs and overheads, DBAs should gain an understanding of
some more advanced scripting techniques. Therefore, this chapter will focus on exploring some of the T-SQL
techniques that we will use in this book. I will make the assumption that if you are reading this book, you
are familiar with rudimentary T-SQL, such as the SELECT statement, including FROM, JOIN, WHERE, GROUP BY,
HAVING, and ORDER BY clauses. If you do need a refresher, however, full details of the SELECT statement can be
found at https://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/ms189499.aspx#.
We will start by looking at the APPLY operator to call a function against rows within a result set. We will
then look at how XML (eXtensible Markup Language) and how the native XML data type can be harnessed
by SQL Server DBAs. It is critical for DBAs to have a handle on the use of XML, due to the volume of metrics
and information that are exposed via this data type. We will then explore how to efficiently iterate through
multiple objects.

Using the APPLY Operator

The T-SQL APPLY operator allows you to call a table valued function against every row in a result set
returned by a query. There are two variations of the APPLY operator: CROSS APPLY and OUTER APPLY. When
CROSS APPLY is used, the query will only return rows in which a result set has been produced by the table
valued function. When OUTER APPLY is used, no filter will be applied to the result set, and where no result is
returned by the table valued function, NULL will be returned, in each column of the table valued function.
The APPLY operator can be very useful to DBAs when they are retrieving metadata from dynamic
management views (DMV) and functions (DMF). For example, the query in Listing 1-1 will return a list of all
sessions, detailing the session ID, the login time, the login name, and whether the process is a user or system
process. It will then use OUTER APPLY to run the sys.dm_exec_sql_text dynamic management function
against each row. This function returns a column called text, which is the SQL statement associated with the
SQL handle in the sql_handle column in the sys.dm_exec_requests dynamic management view.

■ Note The text column that is referenced in the SELECT list is the column returned by the
sys.dm_exec_sql_text DMF.

Electronic supplementary material The online version of this chapter (doi:10.1007/978-1-4842-1943-0_1)

contains supplementary material, which is available to authorized users.

© Peter A. Carter 2016 1

P. A. Carter, Expert Scripting and Automation for SQL Server DBAs, DOI 10.1007/978-1-4842-1943-0_1
CHAPTER 1 ■ T-SQL TECHNIQUES FOR DBAS

Listing 1-1. Using OUTER APPLY

SELECT s.session_id
,s.login_time
,s.login_name
,s.is_user_process
,[text]
FROM sys.dm_exec_sessions s
INNER JOIN sys.dm_exec_requests r
ON r.session_id = s.session_id
OUTER APPLY sys.dm_exec_sql_text(sql_handle) ;

You will notice that this query returns many rows in this result set with NULL values for the text column.
This is because they are system processes, running background tasks for SQL Server, such as the Lazy Writer
and the Ghost Cleanup Task.

■ Tip We can be sure that they are system processes because of the is_user_process flag. We will not
rely on the session ID being less than 50. The assertion that all system processes have a session ID of less
than 50 is widely believed, but also a fallacy, because there can potentially be more than 50 system sessions
running in parallel.

If we use the CROSS APPLY operator for the same query, as shown in Listing 1-2, the only rows that will
be returned will be rows where the result of applying the tabled valued function is not NULL.

Listing 1-2. Using APPLY

SELECT s.session_id
,s.login_time
,s.login_name
,[text]
,s.is_user_process
FROM sys.dm_exec_sessions s
INNER JOIN sys.dm_exec_requests r
ON r.session_id = s.session_id
CROSS APPLY sys.dm_exec_sql_text(sql_handle) ;

Understanding XML
XML is a markup language, similar to HTML, that was designed for the purpose of storing and transporting
data. Like HTML, XML consists of tags. Unlike HTML, however, these tags are not predefined. Instead, they
are defined by the document author. An XML document has a tree structure, beginning with a root node and
containing child nodes (also known as child elements). Each element can contain data but also attributes.
Each attribute can contain data that describes the element. For example, imagine that you require details
of sales orders to be stored in XML format. It would be sensible to assume that each sales order would be
stored in a separate element within the document. But what about sales order properties, such as order date,
customer ID, product IDs, quantities, and prices? These pieces of information could either be stored as child
elements of the sales order element, or they could be stored as attributes of the sales order element. There
are no set rules for when you should use child elements or attributes to describe properties of an element.
This choice is at the discretion of the document author. The XML document in Listing 1-3 provides a sample
XML document, which holds the details of sales orders for a fictional organization.

2
CHAPTER 1 ■ T-SQL TECHNIQUES FOR DBAS

Listing 1-3. Sales Orders Stored in an XML Document

3
CHAPTER 1 ■ T-SQL TECHNIQUES FOR DBAS

There are several things to note when looking at this XML document. First, elements begin with the
element name, encapsulated within angle brackets. They end with the element name, preceded by a
backslash and enclosed in angle brackets. Any elements that fall between these two tags are child elements
of the tag.
Attributes are enclosed in double quotation marks and reside within the beginning tag of an element.
For example, OrderID is an attribute of the <SalesOrder> element.
It is acceptable to have repeating elements. You can see that <SalesOrder> is a repeating element, as
two separate sales orders are stored in this XML document. The <SalesOrders> element is the document’s
root element and is the only element that is not allowed to be complex. This means that it cannot have
attributes and cannot be repeating. Attributes can never repeat within an element. Therefore, if you require a
node to repeat, you should use a nested element as opposed to an attribute.
The format of an XML document can be defined by an XSD schema. An XSD schema will define the
document’s structure, including data types, if complex types (complex elements) are allowed, and how many
times an element must occur (or is limited to occurring) within a document. It also defines the sequence of
elements. A full description of XSD schemas can be found at en.wikipedia.org/wiki/XML_Schema_(W3C).

■ Tip An XML document requires a root element in order to be “well-formed.” An XML document without a root
element is known as an XML fragment. This is important, because it is not possible to bind an XML fragment to an
XSD schema. This means that the structure of the document, including data types, cannot be enforced.

Converting Results Sets to XML

T-SQL allows you to convert relational results sets into XML, by using the FOR XML clause in your SELECT
statement. There are four modes that can be used with the FOR XML clause: FOR XML RAW, FOR XML AUTO, FOR
XML PATH, and FOR XML EXPLICIT. The following sections will demonstrate how the FOR XML clause works in
RAW mode, AUTO mode, and PATH mode. EXPLICIT mode is beyond the scope of this book, as its functionality
is very similar to PATH mode but is far more complex and does not often prove useful for DBAs.

■ Note The value of a DBA understanding FOR XML will become evident in Chapter 8.

Using FOR XML RAW

The simplest and easiest to understand of the FOR XML modes is FOR XML RAW. This mode will transform each
row in a relational result set into an element within a flat XML document. Consider the query in Listing 1-4,
which extracts details of a sales order from the AdventureWorks2016 database.

Listing 1-4. AdventureWorks Sales Order Query

SELECT
SalesOrder.CustomerID
,SalesOrder.OrderDate
,SalesOrder.SalesOrderID
,LineItem.UnitPrice
,LineItem.OrderQty
,p.Name

4
CHAPTER 1 ■ T-SQL TECHNIQUES FOR DBAS

FROM Sales.SalesOrderHeader SalesOrder

INNER JOIN Sales.SalesOrderDetail LineItem
ON SalesOrder.SalesOrderID = LineItem.SalesOrderID
INNER JOIN Production.Product P
ON LineItem.ProductID = p.ProductID
WHERE SalesOrder.CustomerID = 29825
AND SalesOrder.OrderDate < '2012-01-01' ;

This query extracts the details of orders placed by customer 29825, before January 1, 2012. A partial
output of the query can be found in Figure 1-1.

Figure 1-1. AdventureWorks sales order output

If we were to add a FOR XML clause using RAW mode, the results would be returned in the form of an XML
fragment. The amended query in Listing 1-5 will return the XML document instead of a relational result set.

Listing 1-5. AdventurWorks Sales Orders Using FOR XML RAW

SELECT
SalesOrder.CustomerID
,SalesOrder.OrderDate
5
CHAPTER 1 ■ T-SQL TECHNIQUES FOR DBAS

,SalesOrder.SalesOrderID
,LineItem.UnitPrice
,LineItem.OrderQty
,p.Name
FROM Sales.SalesOrderHeader SalesOrder
INNER JOIN Sales.SalesOrderDetail LineItem
ON SalesOrder.SalesOrderID = LineItem.SalesOrderID
INNER JOIN Production.Product P
ON LineItem.ProductID = p.ProductID
WHERE SalesOrder.CustomerID = 29825
AND SalesOrder.OrderDate < '2012-01-01'
FOR XML RAW, ROOT('SalesOrders') ;

Listing 1-6 illustrates the XML document that is returned. This is only a partial results set, as some
results have been omitted to save space. Breaks in results are marked with an ellipse.

Listing 1-6. AdventurWorks Sales Orders Using FOR XML RAW—Partial Results
<row CustomerID="29825" OrderDate="2011-05-31T00:00:00" SalesOrderID="43659"
UnitPrice="2024.9940" OrderQty="1" Name="Mountain-100 Black, 42" />
<row CustomerID="29825" OrderDate="2011-05-31T00:00:00" SalesOrderID="43659"
UnitPrice="2024.9940" OrderQty="3" Name="Mountain-100 Black, 44" />
<row CustomerID="29825" OrderDate="2011-05-31T00:00:00" SalesOrderID="43659"
UnitPrice="2024.9940" OrderQty="1" Name="Mountain-100 Black, 48" />
<row CustomerID="29825" OrderDate="2011-05-31T00:00:00" SalesOrderID="43659"
UnitPrice="2039.9940" OrderQty="1" Name="Mountain-100 Silver, 38" />
...
<row CustomerID="29825" OrderDate="2011-12-01T00:00:00" SalesOrderID="45061"
UnitPrice="2039.9940" OrderQty="5" Name="Mountain-100 Silver, 48" />
<row CustomerID="29825" OrderDate="2011-12-01T00:00:00" SalesOrderID="45061"
UnitPrice="28.8404" OrderQty="2" Name="Long-Sleeve Logo Jersey, L" />
<row CustomerID="29825" OrderDate="2011-12-01T00:00:00" SalesOrderID="45061"
UnitPrice="5.7000" OrderQty="5" Name="Mountain Bike Socks, M" />
<row CustomerID="29825" OrderDate="2011-12-01T00:00:00" SalesOrderID="45061"
UnitPrice="5.1865" OrderQty="1" Name="AWC Logo Cap" />

The first thing that we should note about this document is that it is an XML fragment, as opposed to a
well-formed XML document, because there is no root node. The <row> element cannot be the root node,
because it repeats. This means that we cannot validate the XML against a schema. Therefore, when using the
FOR XML clause, you should consider using the ROOT keyword. This will force a root element, with a name of
your choosing, to be created within the document. This is demonstrated in Listing 1-7.

Listing 1-7. Adding a Root Node

SELECT
SalesOrder.CustomerID
,SalesOrder.OrderDate
,SalesOrder.SalesOrderID
,LineItem.UnitPrice
,LineItem.OrderQty
,p.Name
FROM Sales.SalesOrderHeader SalesOrder

6
CHAPTER 1 ■ T-SQL TECHNIQUES FOR DBAS

INNER JOIN Sales.SalesOrderDetail LineItem

ON SalesOrder.SalesOrderID = LineItem.SalesOrderID
INNER JOIN Production.Product P
ON LineItem.ProductID = p.ProductID
WHERE SalesOrder.CustomerID = 29825
AND SalesOrder.OrderDate < '2012-01-01'
FOR XML RAW, ROOT('SalesOrders') ;

Partial output of the resulting well-formed XML document can be found in Listing 1-8.

Listing 1-8. Partial Output of XML Document with Root Node

The other important thing to notice about the document is that it is completely flat. There is no nesting.
This means that the document’s granularity is at the level of line item, which does not make a lot of sense.
It is also worth noting that all data is contained in attributes, as opposed to elements. We can alter this
behavior by using the ELEMENTS keyword in the FOR XML clause. The ELEMENTS keyword will cause all data to
be contained within child elements, as opposed to attributes. This is demonstrated in the modified query
that can be found in Listing 1-9.

Listing 1-9. Using the ELEMENTS Keyword

SELECT
SalesOrder.CustomerID
,SalesOrder.OrderDate
,SalesOrder.SalesOrderID
,LineItem.UnitPrice
,LineItem.OrderQty
,p.Name
FROM Sales.SalesOrderHeader SalesOrder
INNER JOIN Sales.SalesOrderDetail LineItem
ON SalesOrder.SalesOrderID = LineItem.SalesOrderID
INNER JOIN Production.Product P
ON LineItem.ProductID = p.ProductID
7
CHAPTER 1 ■ T-SQL TECHNIQUES FOR DBAS

WHERE SalesOrder.CustomerID = 29825

AND SalesOrder.OrderDate < '2012-01-01'
FOR XML RAW, ELEMENTS, ROOT('SalesOrders') ;

The well-formed XML document that is returned can be partially seen in Listing 1-10.

Listing 1-10. Using the ELEMENTS Keyword—Partial Results

<SalesOrders>
<row>
<CustomerID>29825</CustomerID>
<OrderDate>2011-05-31T00:00:00</OrderDate>
<SalesOrderID>43659</SalesOrderID>
<UnitPrice>2024.9940</UnitPrice>
<OrderQty>1</OrderQty>
<Name>Mountain-100 Black, 42</Name>
</row>
<row>
<CustomerID>29825</CustomerID>
<OrderDate>2011-05-31T00:00:00</OrderDate>
<SalesOrderID>43659</SalesOrderID>
<UnitPrice>2024.9940</UnitPrice>
<OrderQty>3</OrderQty>
<Name>Mountain-100 Black, 44</Name>
</row>
<row>
<CustomerID>29825</CustomerID>
<OrderDate>2011-05-31T00:00:00</OrderDate>
<SalesOrderID>43659</SalesOrderID>
<UnitPrice>2024.9940</UnitPrice>
<OrderQty>1</OrderQty>
<Name>Mountain-100 Black, 48</Name>
</row>
<row>
<CustomerID>29825</CustomerID>
<OrderDate>2011-05-31T00:00:00</OrderDate>
<SalesOrderID>43659</SalesOrderID>
<UnitPrice>2039.9940</UnitPrice>
<OrderQty>1</OrderQty>
<Name>Mountain-100 Silver, 38</Name>
</row>
...
<row>
<CustomerID>29825</CustomerID>
<OrderDate>2011-12-01T00:00:00</OrderDate>
<SalesOrderID>45061</SalesOrderID>
<UnitPrice>2039.9940</UnitPrice>
<OrderQty>5</OrderQty>
<Name>Mountain-100 Silver, 48</Name>
</row>

8
CHAPTER 1 ■ T-SQL TECHNIQUES FOR DBAS

<row>
<CustomerID>29825</CustomerID>
<OrderDate>2011-12-01T00:00:00</OrderDate>
<SalesOrderID>45061</SalesOrderID>
<UnitPrice>28.8404</UnitPrice>
<OrderQty>2</OrderQty>
<Name>Long-Sleeve Logo Jersey, L</Name>
</row>
<row>
<CustomerID>29825</CustomerID>
<OrderDate>2011-12-01T00:00:00</OrderDate>
<SalesOrderID>45061</SalesOrderID>
<UnitPrice>5.7000</UnitPrice>
<OrderQty>5</OrderQty>
<Name>Mountain Bike Socks, M</Name>
</row>
<row>
<CustomerID>29825</CustomerID>
<OrderDate>2011-12-01T00:00:00</OrderDate>
<SalesOrderID>45061</SalesOrderID>
<UnitPrice>5.1865</UnitPrice>
<OrderQty>1</OrderQty>
<Name>AWC Logo Cap</Name>
</row>
</SalesOrders>

You can see that the element-centric document still returns one element, called <row>, per row in the
relational result set. Instead of the data being contained in attributes, however, it is stored in the form of
child elements. Each child element has been given the name of the column, from which the data has been
returned. The data is still flat, however. There is no hierarchy based on logic or physical table structure.
It is possible to give the <row> element a more meaningful name. In our example, the most meaningful
name would be <LineItem>. Listing 1-11 demonstrates how we can use an optional argument in our FOR XML
clause to generate this name for the element.

Listing 1-11. Generate a Name for the <row> Element

9
CHAPTER 1 ■ T-SQL TECHNIQUES FOR DBAS

The partial resulting XML document can be found in Listing 1-12.

Listing 1-12. Generating a Name for the <row> Element—Partial Results

<SalesOrders>
<LineItem>
<CustomerID>29825</CustomerID>
<OrderDate>2011-05-31T00:00:00</OrderDate>
<SalesOrderID>43659</SalesOrderID>
<UnitPrice>2024.9940</UnitPrice>
<OrderQty>1</OrderQty>
<Name>Mountain-100 Black, 42</Name>
</LineItem>
<LineItem>
<CustomerID>29825</CustomerID>
<OrderDate>2011-05-31T00:00:00</OrderDate>
<SalesOrderID>43659</SalesOrderID>
<UnitPrice>2024.9940</UnitPrice>
<OrderQty>3</OrderQty>
<Name>Mountain-100 Black, 44</Name>
</LineItem>
<LineItem>
<CustomerID>29825</CustomerID>
<OrderDate>2011-05-31T00:00:00</OrderDate>
<SalesOrderID>43659</SalesOrderID>
<UnitPrice>2024.9940</UnitPrice>
<OrderQty>1</OrderQty>
<Name>Mountain-100 Black, 48</Name>
</LineItem>
<LineItem>
<CustomerID>29825</CustomerID>
<OrderDate>2011-05-31T00:00:00</OrderDate>
<SalesOrderID>43659</SalesOrderID>
<UnitPrice>2039.9940</UnitPrice>
<OrderQty>1</OrderQty>
<Name>Mountain-100 Silver, 38</Name>
</LineItem>
<LineItem>
<CustomerID>29825</CustomerID>
<OrderDate>2011-12-01T00:00:00</OrderDate>
<SalesOrderID>45061</SalesOrderID>
<UnitPrice>2039.9940</UnitPrice>
<OrderQty>5</OrderQty>
<Name>Mountain-100 Silver, 48</Name>
</LineItem>
<LineItem>
<CustomerID>29825</CustomerID>
<OrderDate>2011-12-01T00:00:00</OrderDate>
<SalesOrderID>45061</SalesOrderID>
<UnitPrice>28.8404</UnitPrice>
<OrderQty>2</OrderQty>
<Name>Long-Sleeve Logo Jersey, L</Name>
</LineItem>
10
CHAPTER 1 ■ T-SQL TECHNIQUES FOR DBAS

<LineItem>
<CustomerID>29825</CustomerID>
<OrderDate>2011-12-01T00:00:00</OrderDate>
<SalesOrderID>45061</SalesOrderID>
<UnitPrice>5.7000</UnitPrice>
<OrderQty>5</OrderQty>
<Name>Mountain Bike Socks, M</Name>
</LineItem>
<LineItem>
<CustomerID>29825</CustomerID>
<OrderDate>2011-12-01T00:00:00</OrderDate>
<SalesOrderID>45061</SalesOrderID>
<UnitPrice>5.1865</UnitPrice>
<OrderQty>1</OrderQty>
<Name>AWC Logo Cap</Name>
</LineItem>
</SalesOrders>

Using FOR XML AUTO

Unlike FOR XML RAW, FOR XML AUTO is able to return nested results. It is also refreshingly simple to use,
because it will automatically nest the data, based on the joins within your query. The modified query in
Listing 1-13 uses AUTO mode to return a hierarchical XML document.

Listing 1-13. Using FOR XML AUTO

SELECT
SalesOrder.CustomerID
,SalesOrder.OrderDate
,SalesOrder.SalesOrderID
,LineItem.UnitPrice
,LineItem.OrderQty
,Product.Name
FROM Sales.SalesOrderHeader SalesOrder
INNER JOIN Sales.SalesOrderDetail LineItem
ON SalesOrder.SalesOrderID = LineItem.SalesOrderID
INNER JOIN Production.Product Product
ON LineItem.ProductID = Product.ProductID
WHERE SalesOrder.CustomerID = 29825
AND SalesOrder.OrderDate < '2012-01-01'
FOR XML AUTO ;

The XML fragment that is returned by this query can be partially seen in Listing 1-14.

Listing 1-14. Using FOR XML AUTO—Results

11
CHAPTER 1 ■ T-SQL TECHNIQUES FOR DBAS

<Product Name="Mountain-100 Black, 44" />

</LineItem>
<LineItem UnitPrice="2024.9940" OrderQty="1">
<Product Name="Mountain-100 Black, 48" />
</LineItem>
<LineItem UnitPrice="2039.9940" OrderQty="1">
<Product Name="Mountain-100 Silver, 38" />
<Product Name="Mountain-100 Silver, 42" />
</LineItem>
...
</SalesOrder>
<SalesOrder CustomerID="29825" OrderDate="2011-08-31T00:00:00" SalesOrderID="44305">
<LineItem UnitPrice="2024.9940" OrderQty="2">
<Product Name="Mountain-100 Black, 48" />
</LineItem>
<LineItem UnitPrice="2039.9940" OrderQty="2">
<Product Name="Mountain-100 Silver, 38" />
<Product Name="Mountain-100 Silver, 44" />
<Product Name="Mountain-100 Silver, 48" />
</LineItem>
<LineItem UnitPrice="714.7043" OrderQty="2">
<Product Name="HL Mountain Frame - Black, 42" />
</LineItem>
<LineItem UnitPrice="818.7000" OrderQty="1">
<Product Name="HL Mountain Frame - Silver, 48" />
</LineItem>
</SalesOrder>

You can see that when AUTO mode is used, the FOR XML clause has automatically nested the data based
on the JOIN clauses within the query. Each element has been assigned a name based on the table alias of the
table from which it was retrieved. Just as with RAW mode, we are able to use the ROOT keyword to add a root
node, to make the document well-formed or the document element centric with the ELEMENTS keyword.
Nesting based on table joins is not always sufficient. If you look closely at Listing 1-14, you will notice
that there are some <LineItem> elements that contain multiple <Product> elements, which is obviously not
correct. There cannot be more than one product per line on a sales order. This is because the primary key of
the Sales.SalesOrderDetail table has not been included in the query, meaning that not every set of tuples
returned from the Sales.SalesOrderDetail table is unique. Some have the same values for UnitPrice and
OrderQty. Where this has occurred, FOR XML AUTO has grouped them. If the primary key had been included,
the resulting document would appear as in Listing 1-15.

Listing 1-15. FOR XML AUTO Results When SalesOrderDetail Primary Key Is Included
<SalesOrder CustomerID="29825" OrderDate="2011-05-31T00:00:00" SalesOrderID="43659">
<LineItem UnitPrice="2039.9940" OrderQty="1" SalesOrderDetailID="4">
<Product Name="Mountain-100 Silver, 38" ProductID="771" />
</LineItem>
<LineItem UnitPrice="2039.9940" OrderQty="2" SalesOrderDetailID="6">
<Product Name="Mountain-100 Silver, 44" ProductID="773" />
</LineItem>
<LineItem UnitPrice="2039.9940" OrderQty="1" SalesOrderDetailID="7">
<Product Name="Mountain-100 Silver, 48" ProductID="774" />
</LineItem>

12
Another Random Scribd Document
with Unrelated Content
center, it will not have spring enough at the side, and the vest must
be stretched, which, however, can be done better than if drawn in.
But in either case, whether stretching or shrinking is required, I
would advise the band being ripped open, the stiffening taken out,
and re-shaped under the iron, which can easily be done. If a
garment is worth altering at all, it is worth altering correctly.
A coat or vest of the present style, and likely to be for many years
to come, is intended to reach up to the side of the neck where it
(the neck) shoots nearly straight upward. The collar being an
addition to the coat, it must be so constructed that it will turn aside
and permit the neck to pass through. Now, the position of the
standing part of a coat collar must be the same as on a vest, where
the standing collar is not cut off, for it performs the same function.
Take any good coat pattern that is furnished by a reliable firm and
lay the parts out as in this book, and put the bottom of the standing
part of the collar at the point indicated in the vest diagrams, and you
will find that the front of the neck and front of the collar will not fit
together, but lap over each other from 1 to 3 in. according to the
size of the roll. The more it laps, the less roll it will produce, and if
the collar and neck-hole were cut evenly in front, the collar would
pull the lapel down to the bottom of the skirt. (See Dia. VII.)
I must repeat, however, that it is almost impossible to give a
positive distance for the lap of the coat lapel, or a positive shape of
the collar. We must watch fashion, and see how high the standing
collar is, how much the turn-down is behind, or how wide the front
is to be. A competent coat-maker can take almost any piece of bias
cloth and canvas and press it into shape to make a good collar, but
experience proves that not all coat-makers will or can do it. A vest
with the standing collar cut off must have the neck cut out at the
side, and at the angle of 45 deg., at least from 4½ to 4¾; because
the sewed-on standing collar must fill the place of the neck-band of
a vest with the collar cut on. All vests with the standing collar cut on
should have the top of the back cut as wide as the angle of 45 deg.
at least, in order to bring the spring, created by the turning upward
of the neck-band, to the side of the neck. If the top of the back is
cut too narrow the spring will locate too far behind, and will be loose
there, while at the side of the neck it may be too tight. All vests,
with and without turn-down collars, should be cut alike at the neck.
The turn-down part of the collar is simply a piece cut just like the
neck of the vest, as shown in Dia. IV.
Now, it should be observed that if Dia. IV is made without a turn-
down collar the edge must be turned in, consequently it loses a
seam at the side of the neck, which seam must be reduced on a vest
with a turn-down collar, because the edge is not turned in, but
covered over with the top collar, and the difference should be at
least ⅜ of an inch—that is, for a turn-down collar the neck-band at
the side of the neck should be reduced ⅜ of an inch, starting at the
center of the back and running out to nothing anywhere in front. In
all cases the bottom of the neck-band remains at 5 on the angle of
45 deg., as in Dia. IV. This manner of cutting a vest for a turn-down
collar enables the cutter to curve the neck just as he pleases, as the
turn-down piece will always follow the curve.
In this connection it would, no doubt, be proper to speak of the
cutting of the top-collar and its dressing, or pressing in shape,
before it is put on, in order to produce the curve of the flat top-
collar.
To cut the top-collar, turn the underside upward in front and above
the top button, and even with the fore-part as far up as possible.
According to the prominence of the curve, the top of the under-
collar will fall over toward the arm-hole and toward the shoulder
seam, and in this shape the top-collar must be cut; and, by all
means, should be on the bias, on the most hollow part of the curve.
In making up, the inside part of the top-collar must be well
stretched, and pressed over, and shaped to the curve of the under-
collar, and for this reason must be cut bias. The collar and the whole
facing can be dressed under the smoothing iron just as the curve of
the vest requires it by turning and pressing the standing collar part
under. It requires a few extra touches to shape the top collar, and
some cloth may be wasted in order to get it bias, but this is the best
manner in which to make a well curved collar on a low-cut vest.
If any one will look up the authority on the cutting of garments of
from 30 to 40 years ago, and particularly the works of Genio C.
Scott, he will find that at that time vests “without” collars were
produced by sewing on a neck-band with a “V” attached to it in the
same shape as I have shown the front of the standing collar part in
Dia. VII. This “V” sewed in produced the spring at the side of the
neck. That sometimes proved a difficult task for me while learning
the trade in order to get in a nice “V,” and I suppose it would be a
difficult task for some of our journeymen of to-day. But the world is
progressing. To-day we accomplish it with a straight piece, and do it
just as well, and perhaps better. All that is necessary for us to
observe is, that the shoulder seam points to the side of the neck
where the spring is required.
But, for the purpose of variety, I will propose another plan. Cut the
vest as in Dia. IV. Leave off the neck-band and simply add ¾ of an
inch to the top of the back and running out to nothing at about 3
inches below the shoulder seam. At the middle of the shoulder seam
commence and put in a spring of about 1 in., giving half to the front
and half to the back; then sew up, and you will find the same task
accomplished.
If we turn the neck-band in Dia. IV upward until it meets with the
top of the back, we shall find that a fold of about 1 inch will form on
and above the shoulder seam, and all that is necessary is to imitate
this by cutting a spring of ½ inch to both the back and front at the
top of the shoulder seam or at point 5. It is somewhat of a question
whether it would be advisable to cut vests in this manner, but they
can be as far as the fit is concerned, more particularly those cut with
a cloth back.
Now I must say a word about coat collars in particular. In visiting
different tailor shops we find that the dressing of the under-collar is
accomplished in many different ways, and for aught I know all may
be right—if they suit the customer, or if the collar is on, as it is
required by the coat. Coats which require a collar to be stretched
nearly into a circle around the back are often cut too low or too wide
at the neck. For such a round-shaped collar may be required to close
well in at the neck, but it will never make an elegant job, and such
coats usually indicate too much cloth in the shape of wrinkles below
the collar, or on the top of the shoulders. A collar must not run with
the slope of the shoulders, but must turn upward at the side of the
neck to permit it to pass through. It must stand up, no matter if a
turn-down part is cut on or if it stands alone, as on military or
clergymen’s coats. A well fitting military or clergyman’s coat requires
for its standing collar nothing but a straight piece of cloth, and
sewed on straight. It will not be too loose at the top, nor will it “saw”
the neck sore in half an hour.
Now, a coat collar, with a turn-down, represents a standing collar
over the top of the back and side of the neck, as shown in Dia. VII,
and on that piece or wedge the turn-down part is added. This
wedge, or the standing collar as shown in Dia. VII, must retain its
shape as on a vest, but as soon as the standing collar is stretched at
the bottom the spring at the neck is destroyed, and a tight or flat
collar is the result at the side of the neck. But to fit the standing
collar and turn-down part together, so that the turn-down part is so
much larger that it will go around the standing part without strain,
the collar should be dressed as follows: Lay the whole under-collar
flat on the table and turn and press the standing part up where it
belongs, without stretching the outer edge of the turn-down part,
and the collar is done. Whatever is trimmed off in front depends
upon how far the lapel is to be drawn down. In this respect we all
can learn something from an ordinary paper collar, which is a quite
flat piece of paper—the break is not on a straight line, but on a
curve of about half an inch at the center behind, and they all fit well.
Many a cutter and many a journeyman would profit by studying the
principle of a turn-down paper collar.
Of late years a great many overcoats, and especially ulsters, have
been made with very wide collars, turning down about five inches or
more. Such necks should be cut with the standing collar on the top
of back and on the side of the forepart and running out to a point at
or near the front sleeve base, and an extra spring of not less than
one inch added to each shoulder seam, and evenly divided on back
and on front. This addition furnishes the standing part of the collar,
and the turn-down collar part is put on, just as it is put on to the
vest, which will give form to the shape of the shoulder and not lie
flat, as most of such collars are seen to-day.
See collar as it is to be pressed.
Armhole and Sleeve.
(SEE DIA. VII.)
Both armhole and sleeves as well as the shoulder seam are very
closely connected, and must harmonize. No matter in what position
we choose to place the different parts of a frock or sack while
cutting, they must all assume the same position at and around the
armhole and shoulders when on the body. The question of locating
the front of the armhole is solved in the application of the angle of
135 deg. The normal form has its arms at the center and side of the
body, and Dia. I has its armhole in its center and side. If the old rule
—front of armhole ⅔ half-breast from back—holds good, then the
back of the armhole must also be equally good at ⅔ half-breast
from the front base, as in Dia. I. There is no question but that the
armhole may be made more or less without injury to the fit as long
as the sleeve fits into the armhole. The front of the armhole is
located two seams back of 45 deg., from the starting point, and on
the front base, as shown in Dia. VII. This gives an easy-fitting
armhole for a well-built form, but if the armhole is cut forward to
meet the front sleeve base, it will not injure the coat.
It is generally claimed that a stooping form requires its armhole
more forward, and an erect form more backward, but this is not
always true. We find plenty of forms which bend the back, and
throw the neck downward in front, but throw the arms and
shoulders backward, and which forms do not require their armholes
forward of the normal position. We also find forms which are very
erect or straight in the back but throw their arms forward, and do
require the armholes forward from the normal position. Now, no
matter if the form is erect or stooping, the armholes do not require
to be larger or smaller. Because a man throws his arms forward or
backward does not show that his arm becomes larger or smaller. If
the armhole is required to be cut ½ an inch more forward the back
should be that much wider. If the armhole is cut ½ an inch
backward the back becomes ½ an inch smaller—the location of the
armhole changes, not the armhole.
A cutter must also take into account the occupation of a customer.
A musician who blows a great horn requires his armholes backward,
and a full breast, while a person who plays the violin requires his
armholes pretty well forward, or, at least, he needs extra length in
the back sleeve seam, no matter if it is a trifle loose when the sleeve
drops downward. But if everything is well balanced it is wonderful
how small, and again how large, an armhole a man can have in his
coat and feel good in either of them. But as stated, the sleeve must
fit into the armhole, and for this reason we must consider the sleeve
in particular.
When one or both arms are thrown into a horizontal position they
show themselves as a sidewise growth of the body, like the limb of a
tree, and consequently have their base in the center of the back, or
in the center of the front. For the purpose of permitting the arms to
drop down to the side, a wedge, or gusset, or a lap, is made
between the top of the armhole and sleeve, which is taken up when
the arm drops down into its natural position at the side.
At 60 deg. from the center of the back the sleeve and the
shoulder lap 2¼ numbers for a close-fitting sleeve, and it is so
shown in Dia. VII and X. At 45 deg. from the back, or at the top
square line from the front base, the sleeve and shoulder lap 2
numbers. While the lap of 2 at 45 deg., may be considered as a
permanent thing for all sleeves, the lap at 60 deg. may be
considered as changeable, according to the style of the sleeve head,
or according to the kind of the coat, as over or under coats. The lap
of shoulder and sleeve, at 60 deg., also depends upon a low or a
square shoulder, as well as upon a broad or a narrow style of the
shoulder. Two and a quarter may be taken as the smallest amount to
be allowed at 60 deg., and 2½ may be considered not too much for
any style, and 2¾ may be considered plenty for a very full sleeve
head and a narrow style of shoulders.
At right angles with the center of the back and through the point
of the angle of 135 deg., is the front sleeve base, to which the front
sleeve seam is connected at point 11, and from which line the
normal form requires the front of armhole backward 2 seams, as in
the position of Dia. VII, and which is intended for a close-fitting
armhole. On the back the center of the sleeve is 8 from the point of
the angle of 135 deg., and there the sleeve and the coat connect
even, and there the sleeve length must be transferred.
In taking the sleeve length it makes no difference if the length is
taken 1 inch higher or lower, but in transferring the measure to the
sleeve, the cutter must know where to transfer, no matter where the
seam may be located. After the front and back are formed the top
sleeve may be made wider on either seam, and the under side that
much smaller, and notches cut accordingly.
Sleeve and back are to be connected at 8 numbers from O, and at
the back base, but this is for normal forms only, or for the normal
position of the arm only. Persons whose occupation compels them to
throw their arms forward should have some surplus cloth at that
point even if the sleeve shows too much cloth when the arms hang
down. Surplus length allowed there must not be accounted for in the
sleeve length. Another good way, to provide such sleeves with extra
length at the back seam, is to throw the front seam of the sleeve,
say 1 in. forward of the base and at the hand, which will cause the
sleeve to extend forward easily with the arm. Such sleeves may also
have more width at the elbows. Persons who most always reach
forward with their arms should also have a trifle allowance, say ¼
inch, at the shoulder blade, and between the back and sidepiece, at
line 9 over the front.
The bottom of the armhole is marked ¾ above lines 9 and 11¼
and the front of the armhole is ⅜, or two seams back of the angle
of 45 deg., all of which must be considered a close-fitting armhole,
but there is no law to prevent the armhole to be cut ⅛ to ¼ deeper
and that much more forward.
In Dia. VII and X the upper armhole nick is placed at 67½ deg.
and the upper sleeve nick is placed at 60 deg., and both come very
close together as long as the lap of sleeve and shoulder is not over
2¼ at 60 deg. Since Dia. VII and X were made, I have found that a
right angle from the center of the back through 60 deg. at the
armhole gives a rather better connection, and Dia. II, which was
made later on, was made to show that way. At the same time Dia. II
was made with the front of armhole close to 45 deg. and with a lap
of 2½ at 60 deg. The back nick at 8 and the front nick at 11 must
be considered correct, but that much must be said: If for any reason
the sleeve and armhole nicks must be changed, the sleeve will be
the better if it is turned down in front and up behind, than if it
turned the other way.
Now, the position of the sleeve and back enables the cutter to
keep them in true balance. If the shoulder becomes a ¼ of an inch
broader the sleeve loses that much, and if the shoulder becomes
narrower, the sleeve must gain that much. If the armhole is cut
more forward the back becomes broader and the sleeve that much
shorter behind. If the armhole is cut more backward the back
becomes narrower and the back sleeve seam that much shorter.
The stooping form requires the front of the neck-hole further
down, and the top of back correspondingly higher, and for
illustration, I refer to Dia. V, and the dotted line at the neck. If the
neck changes, the sleeve center remains at 8. If the neck is thrown
further down, the top of the back must be longer, and the front
becomes that much shorter, but the sides remain. Besides, a
stooping form can always stand a trifle extra length at the back of
the sleeve, and ¼ to ½ in. extra length there will always be found
useful.
The top of the under sleeve I have represented in two different
ways. The upper curve is especially intended for overcoats, because
the overcoat armhole is cut deeper than the under coat armhole.
The upward curve forms a gusset, or a wedge, which allows the arm
to be raised on the same principle that the lap of the shoulder and
sleeve on top allows the arm to be moved downward. When the arm
is down, and in its natural position, the gusset on top is taken up
and the one below the arm is hidden, and will not show at all. But if
the arm is to be moved upward, it is there for supply, and the body
of the coat is not required to go along.
The width of the sleeve, both at the elbow and at the cuff, most
always depends on style or notion. A long sleeve must be smaller at
the cuff than a short one, but a cutter should always inquire as to
what a customer wants and write the measure down. In the absence
of a positive measure, the elbow may be made 8¾ numbers, a little
more for quite small sizes and a little less for quite large sizes. For
the cuff, 6 numbers may be used for the medium sizes, so that size
35 may be made up 11 in. full. The smallest cuff, say size 23 to 24,
should not be made up less than 9 in., and the largest cuff, say 48 to
50, is large enough with 13½ in., but may be made 14 to 15 in.—all
changes to be made at the elbow seam. There is a variation of
perhaps 6 in. in about 25 sizes, or about ¼ in. for every size. If we
take 11 in. for the width of a 35 size cuff, we will be very near
correct if we add ¼ in. for every size below that size, and deduct ¼
in. for every size above that number.
Dia. VII represents the armhole, sleeve and collar, and also
represents the respective length of the cloak or cape. The cloak part
of Dia. VII shows the full ¾ of that garment without any seam at
the shoulders, but that would be too full for the present style; and
the reduction must be made sidewise by folding the pattern at the
center of the side, or at 67½ deg., but point toward the shoulder
seam and top of the sleeve, where the shoulder will open toward the
neck as the shoulder seam. This shoulder seam may be called
artificial because the real reduction is made at the side below. By
making the fold, the circle must be re-shaped at its bottom, but the
respective lengths remain as in Dia. VII. (See Dia. VIIa, which was
made later.)
The armhole must be considered a center, or a permanent thing,
and must not be changed for either the stooping, or erect, or long or
short neck. If the neck be long, allow more shoulder strap, and if
short, give less, as in Dia. IX. But if for any reason an extra loose
armhole is desired, and it is thrown forward, then the front sleeve
base must be advanced accordingly—that is, two seams must lap
between the front of the armhole and sleeve, at 11, as in Dia. VII.
To sew the sleeve in the armhole: Clean the front of armhole of all
hair cloth, if any is used. Between the front and the top nicks, cut all
canvas and padding in, in three or four places, and cut the lining in,
in one place, about 1 in. above the front sleeve nick, and about 2 in.
deep, and cover it with a V. If the padding is thick, it should be so
cut that no two cuts meet each other, so that when the cuts are
stretched apart, that they still form a solid edge and not show the
offsets on the outside. The front of the armhole should then be
stretched under the iron, from point 11 to 60 deg., and care should
be taken that the front of armhole is not torn, especially at the nicks.
After such stretching the sleeve and the armhole will be nearly even,
and the sleeve will require no fulling, or very little. Below the front
sleeve nick the armhole is not to be stretched, unless it is done to
make the coat larger. On and along the back sleeve seam, up to 45
deg. and down to the under arm cut, the back of the armhole should
be secured from stretching by some kind of a stay, and after the
scye is solid there, the sleeve should be held a trifle full, which
makes a better hanging sleeve than if the sleeve be stretched. No
sleeve hangs well in front if it be stretched above the front sleeve
nick: and the same thing is true to the back part. A sleeve can be
made to hang well in the back, as well as in front, if the coat maker
knows how to work it, or the cutter knows how to cut it, and be able
to give positive instructions.
Whatever the top sleeve is made broader than 8 numbers is taken
off on the under side and the nicks for the sleeve seams follow the
width of the top sleeve on both front and back. The center of the
top sleeve is 8, which will produce a medium top sleeve, but the
under sleeve will be rather full and must be reduced, say ½ to ¾,
on the front seam, or a fold must be laid under the arm.
By the normal position of the armhole, I mean that the front of
the armhole is located within ⅜ in. or two seams of the angle of 45
deg., and the sleeve on that angle as a base, so that the sleeve and
armhole always lap two seams, one for the sleeve and the other for
the coat, as in Dia. X and VII. For the bottom of the sleeve, sweep
from 8 on the back, which is the center of the sleeve.
On the same principle that the back lining of a coat is put in large,
the sleeve lining ought to be put in large around the armhole,
particularly the top sleeve lining, which should be at least ½ in.
wider at each seam than the outside, running out to nothing at and
below the elbow. Speaking of sleeve lining, it may be said here that
fine tailoring may require the top of the sleeve lining to be felled all
around, but it is often noticed that even on fine work the top part is
sewed with a seam and the under side felled. Now, if we sew the
top sleeve lining with a seam we may as well sew the under sleeve,
for it makes clean work all around. It is done as follows: Sew the top
sleeve with a seam as far as you can, then turn the sleeve lining
right side out, gather up the whole sleeve lining from the bottom,
and reach up through the front and sew around the balance. It is
rather an awkward job for one not accustomed to it, but it works
quite easily after a short trial. This would not have been mentioned
here but for the fact that I have seen only one coat which had the
sleeve lining sewed in that way, which was not made by me, and
that coat was made in Indianapolis, Indiana.
Sewing in sleeves is a particular job in order to make them both
alike, and it will pay a cutter to be particular in cutting the notches
and requiring the jour. to place them together; or, if from any cause,
notches on one sleeve are changed that the other sleeve is changed
in the same manner.
Another fact must be observed: By sewing in the undersleeve a
coat may be made a good deal larger or smaller. If the undersleeve
is sewed in full and the lining gives, a coat may be made from one
to two sizes larger than if the undersleeve is sewed in close, or the
fullness laid in a fold. I have made many a three-seamed sack coat
larger by enlarging the undersleeve and by well stretching the coat
under the arm, and then piecing the lining down to the hips. A coat
which is too small in the armholes and which is cut forward is usually
ruined, because cutting the armholes forward will be at the expense
of the width of the breast, but if a wedge is put in under the arm,
either by stretching the bottom of the armhole or by the help of
outlets, then the coat will be large enough in the arms and remain
wide enough at the chest.
In general practice it is found that a great many coats fit better at
the shoulders, without the sleeves in, and in all such cases it may be
presumed that the top sleeve is too short, which causes the shoulder
to break somewhere. Again a short top sleeve at the angles of 45
and 60 deg. causes the back sleeve seam and the whole back
undersleeve to appear too long, while at the hand the sleeve is that
much too short. The top sleeve is better if it laps ½ inch too much
than ¼ inch too little at 45 and 60 deg.
Between the square and the low shoulder there should be a
difference made in the sleeve head, independent of style. The low
shoulder requires a flat sleeve on top of the shoulder, and such
armholes should not be stretched much, while the more square
shoulder may have a sleeve cut with a fuller head, and the armhole
may be stretched more. The width of the shoulders varies in style
also, and it must be observed that whenever the style of the
shoulders is broad the sleeve head cannot be as full as it may be
made on a coat with the shoulders cut narrow. On the present style
of female sleeves we can notice that they are all cut narrow in the
shoulders, and with an extremely full sleeve head. Such shoulders
would look horrid, if they were cut very broad, and with such big
sleeve heads running up, and above the shoulders, several inches.
In making up, the jour. and the cutter must work in harmony, and
in all cases, the jour. ought to know if the coat is for a low or for a
square shoulder, and he ought to be able to work the shoulders
accordingly. There is no sleeve system in existence which is as good
as this, and I claim that there is no probability that anything better
will be brought forth. Others may be able to give it a finer polish, but
the principle will remain.
Centers of the Back and Front.
Both of these centers must be very nearly on straight lines, as is
proved by the fact that a vest can be fitted with very little curve on
the center of the back or in front; and in fact, can be fitted from the
waist to the neck with quite straight lines by simply cutting a trifle of
a gore sidewise, either at the waist or at the neck, or at both. When
we examine the body closely we find that it is not round, but has
four well-defined corners, two in front at the center of the breast or
at the nipples, and two in the back at each shoulder blade. If any
reduction is required at the waist it should be made at these
locations, for they are the turning points of the body. Between these
points the normal body is perfectly flat in front and at the sides,
though in length the front is curved, while the back is mostly hollow;
but for all that, the normal back may be considered flat from blade
to blade, as the hollow between is not intended to be shown, but
concealed. If we view the body from side to side, the back and front
appear to be a sharp curve, as is shown in Fig. 2; but if we look at
Fig. 1 we see both back and front flat. If a body were to be pressed
flat from side to side, and then a cover cut for that form, both the
center of the front and back would necessarily be cut on curved
lines, because it would be essential to fit from front to back, or from
back to front, just as we may take it. But on the human form both
front and back must be fitted sidewise from their respective bases,
and as both of the bases are on a flat surface it follows that both of
them must be fitted, or nearly so, on straight lines, at least as far
down as the hollow of the waist.
If we take a sheet of stiff paper we can fit it over the back and
chest, and from arm to arm, all the way down to the hollow of the
waist in the back, and to the turning points or pit of the stomach in
front, with scarcely any break or wrinkle in the paper, which shows
that the center of the back or front must be fitted on straight lines,
and that all reduction, as shown in Dia. II, or all additions, as shown
in Dia. I, at the waist must be made sidewise or nearly so. The
reduction of the back of the waist depends entirely upon the position
in which we choose to place the different parts. In fact, it may be
claimed that the waist reduction of the back is wholly imaginary,
because the whole part of the body between the arms and waist is a
flat surface, and can be fitted with a straight piece of cloth.
Considering that the natural position of a garment when on the body
runs from the shoulder blade downward and into the hollow of the
waist, it must come in contact with the seat below, and must be
sprung outward, but differs somewhat according to the nature of the
garment—all of which is clearly shown in the diagrams.
All the different shapes of gores or wedges in the back of a frock
coat we can make, because we can open or close the sidepiece and
back, upward or downward. On a vest with a straight back, we must
cut it just so, and not otherwise; and a vest back must have a trifle
spring over the seat in the center of the back. If we cut a vest off at
the hollow of the waist, we can connect the sides also on straight
lines and the whole garment can be cut with but one seam in front.
In this case, however, we must consider the following: If the square
of 20, with one inch cut out under the arm, and sewed up, fits the
body, the back and front are not in that square any longer; but that
square spreads on top, and contracts below, about 7½ deg.
But while the square of 20 is thus contracted at the waist, it
spreads apart on top, or above line 9, and here a reduction of the
waist would be visible as a gore above the armscye line in the
armhole, but which is cut away and that gore is invisible on a vest.
But even a vest on a square of 20 would necessarily have a gore
there if the armhole would not take it away, and if the seam is
thrown further backward, as in a sack coat, that gore will show; and
if the seam is thrown still further backward, as on a frock coat, it will
show still more, because the armhole does not approach it so
closely.
Now, all of this shows that two straight edges can be joined
together and fitted over the center of the back or front by cutting
the gores sidewise, and thus compelling the straight back and front
of a garment to conform with the bend in front and the back in
length. The center of the front cannot be manipulated like the back,
because there are no seams in the forepart passing from one end to
the other, except in a double-breasted coat with the lapels cut off. It
is true, we can cut small gores under the lapel or at the waist to
make the forepart conform to the body, but they must be well
understood by the cutter as well as by the coat maker.
We all know that a great many good coats are made every day
without any gore whatever in the forepart, but we also know that
such coats are pretty well worked, and the front edge drawn in,
which is equal to cutting a gore somewhere. A gore under the lapel
is always vexatious in the hands of an inexperienced journeyman,
for it is quite easy to throw the shoulder of the garment out of place
when basted on the canvas. For this reason no gore under the lapel
should be sewed up until the forepart is basted on the canvas or
padding, after which the canvas should be cut in just the shape of
the gore, because a flat canvas will spoil all effects of a gore. On a
double-breasted coat, with the lapels cut off, an exception must be
made, when the lapels are sewed on before the foreparts are basted
on the canvas. Within said lapel seam may be obtained all necessary
oval form required for a forepart, and all other gores under the lapel
are apt to do more harm than good.
But there is no question about the usefulness of a gore under the
lapel of a double-breasted sack coat, and I may say it is
indispensable there, for no double-breasted coat can be made to
conform with the shape of the body unless one or two gores are cut
somewhere. A lapel may be obtained without a gore in it, but as
soon as the coat is to be buttoned up completely, there will be
surplus cloth between each button and buttonhole, or the collar will
be too loose under the chin, or the front of the waist will be too
wide.
Now all of these faults—loose collar, long front, or large waist—
may be overcome by simply cutting a gore of ⅜ in. in the center of
the forepart at the waist seam of a frock coat, and I deem it
necessary to give that gore particular attention. When we take a
sheet of paper and spread it over the front of the breast, we can fit
both fronts from the neck down to the pit of the stomach with that
straight paper. From the pit of the stomach down it will stand off
from the body, just as the front line of the angle of 15 deg. stands
off in Fig. II. Now, to bring that surplus width in front of the waist to
the body it must be reduced by cutting gores. One large gore in the
center of the front would be all that would be necessary to bring the
sheet to the body, but that would throw too much surplus cloth on
the top of that gore, and all on one spot, and wrinkles would form
across the front of chest, as in the case with all coats which are cut
away in front of the waist and forced forward in order to button up.
To reduce the front edge only will make it a cutaway; but that will
never conform a coat to the oval body in front. Now, the more gores
we cut the more will everything be divided and the better it will fit.
So, in place of taking one large piece from the center of the front,
we may cut three small gores—one in the center of the front and
one in each middle of the foreparts under the nipple. The one in the
center of the front is made in the edge, or the seam, and is simply a
reduction of the front edge. The two gores in the middle of each
forepart may be considered ⅜ in. cut, and two seams, or ¾ in. in
all. These cuts will balance the front and give all the oval shape
which the chest of a male requires.
On military or clergymen’s coats a cutter is compelled to make one
cut in each middle of the front if he wants a good front. On such
coats no gore can be cut at the front of the neck. The natural run of
that gore is straight downward, starting at the nipple, or wherever
the front of the body turns backward toward the front of the thigh.
But we cannot cut them all the way down through the skirt, and so
we turn it forward at the waist seam.
It will be noticed that Dia. II is cut without that gore, but it is
thrown into the lapel seam, and the large gore upward is the result.
If Dia. II is made with that gore, then the front must receive
whatever said gore takes up, say about ¾ in. more.
Military and clergymen’s coats should be cut pretty straight in front
and should have a large gore, say ¾ in., cut in the middle of the
forepart, and starting high up; and the center of the front should not
be drawn in with a stay, for this drawing in of the front edge will
largely return and show small wrinkles at the edge, particularly on
fine broadcloth. If all the surplus cloth is cut away and balanced by
that gore, then nothing is to be drawn in, and a stay at the edge is
simply put on to keep it from stretching, and to confine the canvas
closely and permanently to the edge.
On single-breasted sack coats a small gore may be cut under the
lapel, particularly for a longer roll. If a gore is cut for a short roll the
collar must be quite straight in front, or else the lapel will pull too far
downward. But for a short roll it is just as well to omit it altogether,
or balance it otherwise as follows: After the forepart has been
basted to the canvas, cut two or three gores in the canvas over and
along the chest. Cut each gore about ½ inch wide, and about 3 in.
across. Around these gores secure by good basting the position of
coat and canvas; then draw the gores together, and shrink away the
fullness of the outside, which may easily be done, then put the stay
on even—by which means all surplus cloth, usually cut away as
gores in the front of a frock coat, is used up and balanced in a sack.
Drawing in the canvas without cutting it will never make a smooth
job. But all this requires—that the coat be made by one who knows
how to make it, and is willing to make it as it ought to be made.
Otherwise it would be best to cut a sack without that gore.
On a double-breasted sack the gore under the lapel should be
large and all surplus cloth taken away there, particularly so if the
coat is to be buttoned up to the chin.
The diagrams show the position of the center of the back and
front as well as any description can make it, but the reason why I
have been describing it so closely is, that I desire to show the why
and wherefore all seams are precisely so and so. Neither do I claim
that they must all be just so, by the least fraction of an inch, but to
show a general law which governs the whole. I must refer to still
another important point. On a sack coat that is sewed up all around
over the seat, or nearly so, the side seam and the seam in the
center of the back may be both cut oval so as to give the form of the
seat, particularly on a short sack. On a frock coat the back center is
thrown out below the tack, and all roundness over the seat is
produced by two curved lines on the side of the back and side of the
front skirts, all of which is shown in the diagrams. The center of the
back is open below the tack, and a curved line there would simply
produce a curved edge, but would not give the oval form to the
garment. If it is desired to roll the lapel further down, a gore should
be cut somewhere in the forepart, and whatever the gore and its
seams take up must be allowed in front, or else the coat will be too
small there. This gore gives more roundness of breast and
consequently a longer roll.
However, it should be borne in mind that a longer roll of lapel
should never be made wider on top; but, on the contrary, smaller. A
large or long roll must be produced by roundness of the parts
created by gores from some direction, and not by the width of the
lapel. For this purpose, I will refer to the overcoat in Dia. X. If that
overcoat is cut for a short roll, the small gore will produce a good
lapel; but if the roll is to be longer, the width of the lapel must be
reduced, not by reducing the front edge, but by enlarging the gore
under the lapel. If the lapel is not reduced in width, the long roll will
fall over too far toward the armhole, and no coat looks well with an
extremely broad lapel on top. The width of the lapel depends on
fashion, but all lapels should be wide enough to admit the button-
hole and leave a reasonable space in front and back of it. It looks
bad to see the button-hole too close to the front edge, or almost
touching the seam behind.
According to the present style, a lapel should be 2 in. wide at the
bottom, 2½ in. in the middle, and from 2 to 2¼ on top; but there is
no law against making it a trifle wider or smaller. But this work has
nothing to do with fashion, and all fashionable points must be
obtained from the regular reports of fashion.
Again, it will be noticed on the single-breasted coat, as shown in
Dia. I, that the front of the forepart has a gore cut in its center at
the waist seam but none above or under the lapel. There being no
gore under the lapel to produce the oval form of the chest, the gore
must be cut below, else the coat will swing off from the front of the
body. The point of that gore must point to the center of the breast,
and may run straight downward or may be turned somewhat
backward. Whenever that gore is cut, the bottom of the forepart
must be rounded on and along the bottom of the gore, or its sewing
up will cause a kink at the waist seam.
The front edge of a vest must also be explained, although the
different diagrams cannot fail to make the correct impression. In Dia.
XIII, it will be noticed that in the front of the neck a small gore has
been cut, which will bring the straight front line to the oval shape of
the body. On a frock coat the larger gore toward the waist effects
the same thing. On a vest the under arm cut is made where the gore
in the frock coat is cut, and consequently the vest has that gore
balanced in the side seam. A vest cut close up to the neck and
without collar would not look well to have a gore cut in front of the
neck, and so the deduction is made in front by starting the front-
edge about 3¼ numbers from the point of 135 deg., and on the
plumb line, and meeting the front line again at line 9. On a double-
breasted vest, which is intended to button all the way up to the
neck, and lap over to the other side, this gore must be cut, not
where it is marked in Dia. XIII, but in a cut forming the lapel, and
which cut should be as large as the gore shown in Dia. II. It is
impossible to make a double-breasted garment of any kind without
that large gore if it is intended to fit the form when buttoned over. It
is true, very few vests of that kind are made; but that kind of a cut
must be made in all double-breasted garments if a well-fitting front
is to be obtained when buttoned up.
From line 9 to line 15 the front line is the front edge of a single-
breasted vest, receding a trifle at the lower button. Very few vests
are cut all the way up to the neck, and consequently the gore at the
neck, as in Dia. XIII, is entirely cut away and of no account. Single-
breasted vests that button up, say to about 2 in. above line 9, can
be fitted without any gore; but the front edge should be worked so
that it will not stretch out in making, particularly around the open
neck. Low-cut vests, and without turn-down collars, must be fairly
well drawn in at the open neck, or the long opening will gape more
or less. Single-breasted as well as double-breasted vests with a low
opening should have half an inch gore cut under the collar. The gap
may be taken away by drawing the neck in with a thread or stay;
but a gore is better—the maker should know just what to do with it.
Stretching the collar will never do any good—it will give the collar a
different shape, but will never bring a gaping front to the body.
In producing a double-breasted vest, 1 to 1½ in. may be added to
the front edge, and the buttons set back that much from the place
where they would be if the vest were single-breasted. To obtain the
proper balance for the bottom of the double-breasted vest along the
buttons, so that both sides meet, sweep from 3¾ at the plumb base
line on Dia. IV through the bottom of the front part of the angle of
15 deg., or as far backward as the buttons will be located. This is a
sure sweep. (See Dia. IV.)
Besides the gore under the collar, or the drawing in of the edge
around the neck of a double-breasted vest, I have found in a
majority of cases that it is well to lengthen the back, say ½ inch—
which gives the front a better opportunity to settle in its place. It is
ten times better to have the back of a vest a trifle too long than too
short. The difference between a vest and a coat may well be
observed from Dia. I, II and IV. It is useless to describe them, and I
will conclude this article with the following remarks:
A coat must fit best behind and at the shoulders, for the front can
be regulated by moving the buttons, and for this reason a center line
in front is not important; but it is very handy to have one for a
system, whenever you want a straight front.
A vest is intended to fit best in front, and for this reason the front
is cut loose at the front of the waist. The vest is cut off a few inches
below the waist, and a trifle loose cloth will not show; but if a coat
were cut as loose there the skirt below would flare in all directions.
To regulate the top button of a coat and vest, so that the coat will
cover the vest when buttoned, place the top button-hole, say on line
9 for the coat, and ½ in. lower for the vest. The single-breasted coat
has one inch more cloth there, and the button may be set back one
inch on the coat, and on the vest as near as the button-holes when
buttoned. The coat will cover the vest about one inch, and this may
be used as a guide whenever the opening of the coat and vest are
lowered.
To the center of the front also belongs the lapel, and a cutter
should know just how much to use for that purpose, and with that
object in view examine the front of a clergyman’s coat as shown in
Dia. I. A coat of this kind is, of course, without turnover or lapel, but
it must be loose, though not too wide; and if it is correct that the
angle of 135 deg. makes the top of the front just large enough to
sew it up with a seam, providing a large gore is cut below at the
waist, then it follows that the buttons and front of the button-holes
must be sewed one seam back of that line, and enough cloth left in
front of the base as is required in front of the button-holes and in
front of the buttons. If the edge is bound half an inch on the button-
hole side and one inch on the button side it will answer very well;
but if the edge is turned in one more seam must be allowed. The
space in front of the button-holes should not be less than five-
eighths inches and may be three-fourths, and the button side may
have one-half an inch more for extra lap.
Now, I will refer to Dia. III and XII. Observe the circle which is
drawn from 60 degs. on the right and through 135 degs., which
circle gives as good a top to the lapel as anything that can be
contrived, and the whole front produces an extreme cut-away. If the
lapel is to be run further down, all we find necessary to do is to
allow on the bottom of the lapel, say three-fourths inches, and
shape the upper part according to notion. If we desire a long roll of
the lapel, a gore should be cut under the lapel, and the gore and
seam again allowed in front, so that the original width of the circle
and on top of the lapels, is not destroyed. There is no question but
that a larger lapel requires a trifle more width around the second or
third button-hole, but how much must always depend upon the
notions of the cutter; but in all cases the lapel of a single-breasted
coat should be large enough to allow the second or third button-
hole, or all, to be made without coming in the break of the roll, and
a neat lapel need never be larger than for that purpose, no matter
how low it is to roll. It is here where the touches of a fancy cutter
can be seen, and a cutter has always a chance to become more
proficient on that point. Even with the greatest care he may often
obtain a lapel that does not suit him. But the cutter alone can not do
all. The journeyman must have the taste and the ability to make it
so that it will not only suit the cutter, but will also be admired by the
public.
If the front of Dia. I was to be sewed together with a seam like
the back, the front line of the angle of 135 degs. would have to be
cut through, and that would fit down to between lines 15 and 17½,
but below that point the front would have to be reduced 15 degs.,
and at the same time where the front requires reduction, the back
requires an addition, all of which is shown in Dia. I.
There is one more important point to be considered in connection
with the center of front and back, and this is the length. For
particular forms, or for odd forms, it may be measured as follows:
From the top of back measure straight down behind, and again,
from the top of back measure forward, striking point 11¼ on the
plumb base line, as near as you can, and from that point go straight
down to a level bottom for both back and front. To obtain that level
bottom by the scale, make both back and front even long from the
point of the angle of 135 degs. for a frock coat, after all seams are
sewed.
For a sack coat, make the front about ¾ shorter than the back,
for the reason that the back of a sack coat is also ¾ shorter than
that of a frock coat, and which is fully illustrated by the lap of the
bottom of the sidepiece and top of skirt in Dia. III. This calculation
holds good for the normal form, and for the long or for the short
neck, but for the stooping and for the erect form it ought to be
measured, especially in extreme cases.
The Waist Seam and Bottom.
It cannot be supposed that all seams of a coat will run according to
the slope of the body when a pattern is laid on the flat table. The
run of the seams, when covering the crooked form of a man, must
always assume a different position when laid out on a flat surface,
which is fully demonstrated in the back slope of pants. But a cutter
should know how much they are out of gear from a certain line or
base. If a cutter is able to cut a frock coat with a waist seam running
horizontally around the body when the coat is on, then it will be
easy for him to produce a square bottom, which is always in good
style, and a coat that is too long or too short at one place is always
a misfit. On the contrary, a horizontal waist seam is not in good
taste. A stylish waist seam is on a gentle curve upward at the side
when the coat is upon the body.
Taking the side as a guide, the back may be ½ in. lower, and the
front may be 1 in. lower. But the position of the human form is so
different in different individuals that we can seldom find two men
recording the same position of the waist seam when having the
same coat on. This being the case, a cutter should come as near to
it as possible. The true position of the bottom of a coat, or of the
run of the waist seam, can best be found by measuring with a
straight-edge from the level floor upward. The position of that seam,
as shown in Dia. II, may be considered as a fashionable run, but
there is no law to prevent us from curving it more or less.
As shown in Dia. III, it will be noticed that ¾ length of the back is
absorbed by the lap of the top of the skirt, and bottom of side piece,
and consequently the front must also be shortened that amount, at
the bottom from the side forward, in order to make it square. On the
sack coat the back and side piece are in the same position, and
consequently the bottom is square. The shaving off of the front of
the skirt for cutaways has nothing to do with the foregoing
calculation.
So far I have paid attention mostly to straight fronts, because they
must be cut just right, for a straight front coat will be spoiled if the
bottom of the skirt laps over too much or hangs apart. In cutaway
coats no such trouble exists, but it is necessary to observe the
following difference between a cutaway and a straight front. A
straight front is usually a longer coat than a cutaway. A longer coat
is required to have a fuller skirt toward the bottom, so that, in
walking, the legs can have play enough and yet not strike the coat
with every step; and the longer the coat the more space is required.
A cutaway coat is always a short coat, but a short coat may also
have a straight front.
Now, a short coat should have its skirt so arranged that it will
close in well to the body and not flare in all directions; and for this
purpose I refer to Dia. III, which front is the proper shape for a
regular cutaway, as well as for a dress coat. Below the gore, in the
center of the forepart, the upper seam just laps over the skirt
enough to straighten the seam when the gore is sewed up. The gore
itself would naturally run straight downward, but it is turned at the
waist seam and run forward into the skirt seam, which will take
away all surplus flare at the side of the skirt. The connection of the
top of the skirt and side piece is the same for all coats. All must
hang the same (straight down at the back), and all changes between
the full skirt and cutaway are made from the under arm cut,
forward.
A very good way to change the full skirt of Dia. II to that of a
cutaway is as follows: Cut the skirt pattern like Dia. II, then from the
under arm cut downward, fold up the pattern, say 1¼ in. at line 30.
The side piece and skirt remain stationary. The fold is brought from
the top of the front, and the top of the front of the skirt is changed
to the shape of Dia. III. All frock coats should fall straight downward
from the seat, whether long or short, and for this purpose I have
made the backs the same on both cutaways and straight fronts, both
leaving perfect connection between the bottom of the side piece and
the top of the back skirt, except Dia. III, which is produced for a
different purpose.
All changes in the spring toward the bottom of a coat must be
made by reducing the lap between the forepart and the skirt from
the side seam forward. Dia. II may be considered to have enough
spring for a full flowing skirt of the present style, while the cutaway
may be made even at the front, but so that the top of the skirt and
the bottom of the forepart run on a gentle curve, after the gore in
the forepart is sewed up. That part of the waist seam of a cutaway
should be cut like Dia. III, that is, a lap of about ⅜ at the gore
upward, and even again in front. Dia. III is made with a gore in the
front of the waist seam, but that gore is calculated for a dress coat
skirt, which requires the skirt to close in pretty well when the coat is
on, and is good for all extreme cutaways. In the production of a
dress coat it will again be found handy to have the coat and vest on
the same base, because it looks horrid to see such a coat front
shorter than the vest.
The back, and the fold between the back and the front skirt, and
all over and below the side piece, must be the same on all coats,
that is, all must hang straight down. But after all, the back skirt of a
cutaway may be cut closer than the skirt in Dia. II, for the reason
that a short cutaway cut scant at the bottom of the back skirt will
not go apart as easily as it would do if cut, say 10 in. longer.
Dia. II gives a good representation of the run of the bottom, and
the lap at the waist seam shows 1 number extra length for the curve
of the chest. The skirt of any double-breasted frock coat should be
cut so that when done and the front laps over, both the waist seam
and the bottom meet.
Now, providing the lengths are all well calculated, it becomes
simple to make these points meet, and it is done as follows: In front
of the plumb base line make the skirt even length and shape in all
respects like Dia. II. From the under arm cut forward, sink the
forepart waist seam 1½ at the plumb base line and the same at the
front edge. At the bottom drop the front of the skirt about ⅜ to ½.
The bottom of the back is ¼ longer at the side than it is behind, or
at right angles with the center line of the center of the back. At line
30 the center of the back is thrown out 1 number and that much is
again reduced at the side of the back, as a gore. Throwing outside 1
in. and cutting 1 in. away at the side produces the oval shape over
the seat. If the center of the back was placed at the base and the
sides made even from line 25 down, then the whole back part would
appear flat.
The under arm cuts in Dias. II and IV, are based upon the
difference of the diameter of the body from side to side, close under
the arm and at the hollow of the waist. The diameter of the normal
male form may be considered to measure one inch less at the waist
than at the chest, both backward and forward and sidewise, and the
circumference of such a body may be computed as being one-ninth
less waist than the breast on the whole measure, as 36 breast and
32 waist.
Now, it should be observed that Dia. II and Dia. IV are laid out in
different squares, and that if Dia. IV were laid out in the same
square as is Dia. II, the gore under the arm would be 3¼ at the
waist, as it is on Dia. XII. When I say above, that all coats and vests
have the under arm cut calculated according to the difference of the
diameter of the waist from side to side, I mean a coat laid out as
shown in Dias. II and XII, and a vest as laid out as shown in Dias. IV
and XI. Each requires about one inch reduction at the waist and at
the under arm cut. The coat is simply that much larger over the
hips, as the swing of the side piece from a square of 20 to a square
of 17½ amounts to.
The square of 18, for either a three-seamed sack, or a frock coat,
may be reduced at the waist as shown in Dia. II, and if the diameter
of the waist indicates that more space is required at the side, it
should be allowed according to that indication. Some men are quite
well filled out in the sides of the body and flat in front, while others
require more waist proportion in front. The waist proportion on a
frock coat cannot be made according to the close measure taken
over the vest, but must be made according to the measure over a
well-fitting coat when buttoned up, and to be taken as large and as
loose, yet as snug, as the coat really requires it to be. Some may call
this an actual measure, and some may contend that this measure
cannot be taken correctly, but, be that as it may, nevertheless it is a
measure, which gives an indication of what is wanted, and also a
truer indication than a measure taken tightly over the waist. By the
waist measure, I mean the measure at the hollow of the waist and
not the waist seam of a frock coat. The hollow of the waist is a
permanent point on every human body, but the waist seam changes
according to style or notion; and the width of that seam should
come pretty near to the actual measure taken over the coat when
buttoned up.
In order to observe the difference of the location of waist
proportion, let us consider Dia. I, which is laid out in the same
position as a vest, although the square is ½ larger. Here we find a
reduction of ¾ at the hollow of the back, or between the sidepiece
and back; and on line 20 we find a spring of ¾ at the waist seam
between the front and sidepiece.
The normal form requires a reduction of 1 in. at the under arm
cut, on a vest, and about ½ in front, which ½ is again thrown out
behind as a spring over the seat; and which is not waist reduction or
waist addition, but must be considered as something to conform
with the turn of the body from the pit of the stomach downward and
from the hollow of the waist in the back downward. This cut under
Welcome to our website – the ideal destination for book lovers and
knowledge seekers. With a mission to inspire endlessly, we offer a
vast collection of books, ranging from classic literary works to
specialized publications, self-development books, and children's
literature. Each book is a new journey of discovery, expanding
knowledge and enriching the soul of the reade

Our website is not just a platform for buying books, but a bridge
connecting readers to the timeless values of culture and wisdom. With
an elegant, user-friendly interface and an intelligent search system,
we are committed to providing a quick and convenient shopping
experience. Additionally, our special promotions and home delivery
services ensure that you save time and fully enjoy the joy of reading.

Let us accompany you on the journey of exploring knowledge and

personal growth!

textbookfull.com

Download Full (Ebook) Spring in Action, Sixth Edition by Craig Walls ISBN 9781617297571, 1617297577 PDF All Chapters
100% (6)
Download Full (Ebook) Spring in Action, Sixth Edition by Craig Walls ISBN 9781617297571, 1617297577 PDF All Chapters
71 pages
FlexILS 3
100% (3)
FlexILS 3
73 pages
Human Computer Interaction in Intelligent Environments (Constantine Stephanidis Gavriel Salvendy)
100% (1)
Human Computer Interaction in Intelligent Environments (Constantine Stephanidis Gavriel Salvendy)
467 pages
About Aesop
No ratings yet
About Aesop
10 pages
Green Advertising Revisited
No ratings yet
Green Advertising Revisited
26 pages
Keywords Studios Montréal Linguistic Skills Test: Instructions
0% (1)
Keywords Studios Montréal Linguistic Skills Test: Instructions
8 pages
Older and Wiser
No ratings yet
Older and Wiser
11 pages
Chief Happiness Officer American English Teacher
No ratings yet
Chief Happiness Officer American English Teacher
11 pages
Digital Factory: Luka Kozamernik
No ratings yet
Digital Factory: Luka Kozamernik
115 pages
JMD Oils: Deciding On A Growth Strategy
No ratings yet
JMD Oils: Deciding On A Growth Strategy
5 pages
Jakob Nielsen
100% (1)
Jakob Nielsen
9 pages
Edwin Lafevre - Wspomnienia Gracza Gieldowego
No ratings yet
Edwin Lafevre - Wspomnienia Gracza Gieldowego
220 pages
Strategic Planning Foundations - Mike Figliuolo
No ratings yet
Strategic Planning Foundations - Mike Figliuolo
36 pages
Culture
100% (2)
Culture
5 pages
How PIM Adopters Are Outperforming Their Competition
0% (1)
How PIM Adopters Are Outperforming Their Competition
37 pages
Hazardous Materials: Managing The Incident, Fourth Edition
No ratings yet
Hazardous Materials: Managing The Incident, Fourth Edition
25 pages
Trade 4
No ratings yet
Trade 4
43 pages
Transnational Management
100% (1)
Transnational Management
13 pages
Logistics Management and Strategy Competing through the Supply Chain 5th Edition Alan Harrison 2024 scribd download
No ratings yet
Logistics Management and Strategy Competing through the Supply Chain 5th Edition Alan Harrison 2024 scribd download
67 pages
Prosta Metoda Jak Rzucić Palenie
No ratings yet
Prosta Metoda Jak Rzucić Palenie
109 pages
2011 - Study Skills For Geography, Earth and Environmental Science Students
No ratings yet
2011 - Study Skills For Geography, Earth and Environmental Science Students
317 pages
23C550 Lovelock and Gummesson 2004
No ratings yet
23C550 Lovelock and Gummesson 2004
23 pages
Master of Business Administration
No ratings yet
Master of Business Administration
8 pages
Unit 5
100% (1)
Unit 5
3 pages
Peter Martell - First Raise A Flag - How South Sudan Won The Longest War But Lost The Peace-Oxford University Press, USA (2019)
No ratings yet
Peter Martell - First Raise A Flag - How South Sudan Won The Longest War But Lost The Peace-Oxford University Press, USA (2019)
358 pages
Nowoczesny Trening Siłowy IAN KING I LOU SCHULER
No ratings yet
Nowoczesny Trening Siłowy IAN KING I LOU SCHULER
90 pages
Insights From The 5 AM Club by Robin Sharma
No ratings yet
Insights From The 5 AM Club by Robin Sharma
1 page
Progress 1
No ratings yet
Progress 1
8 pages
Marketing Doswiadczen A Budowanie Strategii Komunikacji Marki W Mediach Spolecznosciowych - 659559957
No ratings yet
Marketing Doswiadczen A Budowanie Strategii Komunikacji Marki W Mediach Spolecznosciowych - 659559957
9 pages
Not For Sale by David Batstone - Teacher Study Guide
No ratings yet
Not For Sale by David Batstone - Teacher Study Guide
61 pages
The Peak Performance Handbook
No ratings yet
The Peak Performance Handbook
30 pages
Nanoparticles: Fate and Transport
No ratings yet
Nanoparticles: Fate and Transport
41 pages
WNL - 10 Biggest Myths in Fitness-Upper
No ratings yet
WNL - 10 Biggest Myths in Fitness-Upper
4 pages
2023 - Business Creativity Workshop - Part I
100% (1)
2023 - Business Creativity Workshop - Part I
60 pages
Biochemia - Edward Bańkowski
No ratings yet
Biochemia - Edward Bańkowski
197 pages
20 Essential English Expressions For Professionals
No ratings yet
20 Essential English Expressions For Professionals
17 pages
The Uppsala Model vs. The Network Approach in The Process of Internationalization PDF
No ratings yet
The Uppsala Model vs. The Network Approach in The Process of Internationalization PDF
14 pages
22 Practical Lessons of JorrDaar Book
No ratings yet
22 Practical Lessons of JorrDaar Book
111 pages
The Polish Real Estate Guide 2018
No ratings yet
The Polish Real Estate Guide 2018
184 pages
CrossCultural Dialogue As A Conflict Management Strategy - Book
No ratings yet
CrossCultural Dialogue As A Conflict Management Strategy - Book
163 pages
Rediscovery of Marketing Concept
100% (1)
Rediscovery of Marketing Concept
11 pages
Strategy Strategy: Blue Ocean
No ratings yet
Strategy Strategy: Blue Ocean
4 pages
The Definitive Drucker - Book Review
No ratings yet
The Definitive Drucker - Book Review
2 pages
Electronic Business & Commerce ( PDFDrive )
No ratings yet
Electronic Business & Commerce ( PDFDrive )
449 pages
Essentials of Environmental Science 2nd Edition (Ebook PDF) 2024 Scribd Download
67% (3)
Essentials of Environmental Science 2nd Edition (Ebook PDF) 2024 Scribd Download
49 pages
Communication Skills That Every CIO Must Have: Tips And Techniques For CIOs To Use In Order To Become Better Communicators
From Everand
Communication Skills That Every CIO Must Have: Tips And Techniques For CIOs To Use In Order To Become Better Communicators
Jim Anderson
No ratings yet
Profesor Coordinator: Candidat
No ratings yet
Profesor Coordinator: Candidat
11 pages
03 GPS Jamming
No ratings yet
03 GPS Jamming
39 pages
Sex Differences in The Adult Human Brain
No ratings yet
Sex Differences in The Adult Human Brain
17 pages
Podstawy Ekonomii 2018 Podręcznik
No ratings yet
Podstawy Ekonomii 2018 Podręcznik
344 pages
1 Colliers Baltics Real Estate Market Overview 2017 PDF
No ratings yet
1 Colliers Baltics Real Estate Market Overview 2017 PDF
84 pages
Unit 8: Cultures: by Emma Jacobs
No ratings yet
Unit 8: Cultures: by Emma Jacobs
3 pages
The Third Culture The Impact of AI On Knowledge, Society and Consciousness in The 21st Century (Stefan Brunnhuber)
No ratings yet
The Third Culture The Impact of AI On Knowledge, Society and Consciousness in The 21st Century (Stefan Brunnhuber)
117 pages
Big Four Accounting Firms - Wikipedia
No ratings yet
Big Four Accounting Firms - Wikipedia
4 pages
Citrus Fruits
No ratings yet
Citrus Fruits
38 pages
Results Without Authority Controlling A Project When The Team Doesn T Report To You A Project Manager S Guide 1st Edition Tom Kendrick PMP
100% (3)
Results Without Authority Controlling A Project When The Team Doesn T Report To You A Project Manager S Guide 1st Edition Tom Kendrick PMP
84 pages
Newton School Free SQL Handbook
No ratings yet
Newton School Free SQL Handbook
108 pages
2A GRAMMAR Present Perfect and Past Simple: Activation
No ratings yet
2A GRAMMAR Present Perfect and Past Simple: Activation
2 pages
Telemedicine: Cellular Operators Association of India
No ratings yet
Telemedicine: Cellular Operators Association of India
24 pages
John Kotter
No ratings yet
John Kotter
3 pages
Anti Administration
No ratings yet
Anti Administration
20 pages
Complete Download Expert Scripting and Automation for SQL Server DBAs Springerlink (Online Service) PDF All Chapters
100% (1)
Complete Download Expert Scripting and Automation for SQL Server DBAs Springerlink (Online Service) PDF All Chapters
55 pages
XGB Economic, Standard Catalogue (Eng) - 20100504
No ratings yet
XGB Economic, Standard Catalogue (Eng) - 20100504
2 pages
MATH10 QUARTER 2 Week 3 DLL
No ratings yet
MATH10 QUARTER 2 Week 3 DLL
6 pages
Sakit Akon Tiyan Kada Mag Ubo-Ubo Ko.": Predisposing Factors: Precipitating Factors
No ratings yet
Sakit Akon Tiyan Kada Mag Ubo-Ubo Ko.": Predisposing Factors: Precipitating Factors
4 pages
Mechatronics Principles and Applications 1st Edition by Godfrey Onwubolu 0750663790 9780750663793 pdf download
No ratings yet
Mechatronics Principles and Applications 1st Edition by Godfrey Onwubolu 0750663790 9780750663793 pdf download
44 pages
Project Liter
No ratings yet
Project Liter
6 pages
Chapter 6 - Employee Selection
No ratings yet
Chapter 6 - Employee Selection
29 pages
Secured and Safe Transportation, Storage and Handling of Ammonium Nitrate
No ratings yet
Secured and Safe Transportation, Storage and Handling of Ammonium Nitrate
11 pages
Check-In Activity No.2: Limiting Reactants
No ratings yet
Check-In Activity No.2: Limiting Reactants
3 pages
LG
No ratings yet
LG
9 pages
Instant download (Ebook) Art Of Laparoscopic Surgery: Textbook & Atlas (4 Volumes) 2nd Edition by Palanivelu, C ISBN 9789352708451, 9352708458 pdf all chapter
100% (2)
Instant download (Ebook) Art Of Laparoscopic Surgery: Textbook & Atlas (4 Volumes) 2nd Edition by Palanivelu, C ISBN 9789352708451, 9352708458 pdf all chapter
67 pages
FINAL MASTER Declaration in Support of Opposition To Defendants' Motion To Dismiss
No ratings yet
FINAL MASTER Declaration in Support of Opposition To Defendants' Motion To Dismiss
3 pages
Digital Voltmeter
No ratings yet
Digital Voltmeter
3 pages
ISA-550-Final---29092024-114214pm
No ratings yet
ISA-550-Final---29092024-114214pm
4 pages
Avl2 Im
No ratings yet
Avl2 Im
4 pages
Semi Skilled Jobs Advert - Cementers-28!01!2024
No ratings yet
Semi Skilled Jobs Advert - Cementers-28!01!2024
1 page
Instant download Extreme Tribology Fundamentals and Challenges 1st Edition Ahmed Abdelbary (Author) pdf all chapter
100% (4)
Instant download Extreme Tribology Fundamentals and Challenges 1st Edition Ahmed Abdelbary (Author) pdf all chapter
55 pages
Roam Mobility User Guide
No ratings yet
Roam Mobility User Guide
9 pages
Philippines Action-Plan 2019-2021 PDF
No ratings yet
Philippines Action-Plan 2019-2021 PDF
234 pages
E Governance PDF
No ratings yet
E Governance PDF
10 pages
NSE Annual Report 2022-23-0 - 0
No ratings yet
NSE Annual Report 2022-23-0 - 0
436 pages
PFSlip
No ratings yet
PFSlip
2 pages
Narrative Report - National Autocad Competition
No ratings yet
Narrative Report - National Autocad Competition
1 page
Installation Guide ADH-2045 SERIES PDF
No ratings yet
Installation Guide ADH-2045 SERIES PDF
5 pages
48TMSS07R0 Active - Passive Shelters For Telecommunication Facilities
No ratings yet
48TMSS07R0 Active - Passive Shelters For Telecommunication Facilities
15 pages
Tutorial 8,9
No ratings yet
Tutorial 8,9
1 page
SH1016
No ratings yet
SH1016
20 pages
3risklandscapeajer 37870-8831
No ratings yet
3risklandscapeajer 37870-8831
15 pages
Project On RCOM
No ratings yet
Project On RCOM
22 pages

Download Expert Scripting and Automation for SQL Server DBAs 1st Edition Peter A. Carter (Auth.) ebook All Chapters PDF

Uploaded by

Download Expert Scripting and Automation for SQL Server DBAs 1st Edition Peter A. Carter (Auth.) ebook All Chapters PDF

Uploaded by

Download the Full Version of textbook for Fast Typing at textbookfull.

Expert Scripting and Automation for SQL Server

Download More textbook Instantly Today - Get Yours Now at textbookfull.com

Expert Scripting and Automation for SQL Server DBAs

Securing SQL Server: DBAs Defending the Database 2nd

Expert SQL Server Transactions and Locking: Concurrency

Practical Maintenance Plans in SQL Server Automation for

Practical Maintenance Plans in SQL Server Automation for

SQL Server Execution Plans For SQL Server 2008 through to

Expert T-SQL Window Functions in SQL Server 2019: The

Azure SQL Revealed: A Guide to the Cloud for SQL Server

About the Author ..................................................................................................... xi

■Chapter 1: T-SQL Techniques for DBAs .................................................................. 1

Index ..................................................................................................................... 281

About the Author ..................................................................................................... xi

■Chapter 1: T-SQL Techniques for DBAs .................................................................. 1

Efficient Looping ............................................................................................................ 20

Language Fundamentals ................................................................................................ 27

sqlps Module .................................................................................................................. 38

Configuring Server Agent for Multi-Server Environments .............................................. 51

Analyzing Performance Counters ................................................................................. 100

Adding Extra Functionality ........................................................................................... 118

Automation Recipes ..................................................................................................... 140

Summary ...................................................................................................................... 156

Inventory Database Physical Design ............................................................................ 169

Configuring the Instance .............................................................................................. 193

Updating the Inventory Database ................................................................................. 198

■Chapter 8: Driving Automation Through Monitoring ......................................... 205

Advanced Monitoring Techniques................................................................................. 224

Using Monitoring to Drive Automation.......................................................................... 250

Automating Break/Fix Scenarios .................................................................................. 269

Summary ...................................................................................................................... 279

■Index .................................................................................................................. 281

Peter A. Carter is an SQL Server expert with more than a decade of

T-SQL Techniques for DBAs

Using the APPLY Operator

Electronic supplementary material The online version of this chapter (doi:10.1007/978-1-4842-1943-0_1)

© Peter A. Carter 2016 1

Listing 1-1. Using OUTER APPLY

Listing 1-2. Using APPLY

Listing 1-3. Sales Orders Stored in an XML Document

Converting Results Sets to XML

Using FOR XML RAW

Listing 1-4. AdventureWorks Sales Order Query

FROM Sales.SalesOrderHeader SalesOrder

Figure 1-1. AdventureWorks sales order output

Listing 1-5. AdventurWorks Sales Orders Using FOR XML RAW

Listing 1-7. Adding a Root Node

INNER JOIN Sales.SalesOrderDetail LineItem

Listing 1-8. Partial Output of XML Document with Root Node

Listing 1-9. Using the ELEMENTS Keyword

WHERE SalesOrder.CustomerID = 29825

Listing 1-10. Using the ELEMENTS Keyword—Partial Results

Listing 1-11. Generate a Name for the <row> Element

The partial resulting XML document can be found in Listing 1-12.

Listing 1-12. Generating a Name for the <row> Element—Partial Results

Using FOR XML AUTO

Listing 1-13. Using FOR XML AUTO

Listing 1-14. Using FOR XML AUTO—Results

<Product Name="Mountain-100 Black, 44" />

Let us accompany you on the journey of exploring knowledge and

You might also like