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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

PRAGUE
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

PRAGUE
MAIN CONTRIBUTOR: VLADIMÍR SOUKUP
 CONTENTS
HOW TO USE
THIS GUIDE 6

PROJECT EDITOR Heather Jones

ART EDITOR Lisa Kosky
EDITORS Ferdie McDonald, Carey Combe
US EDITOR Mary Ann Bruchac Lynch
DESIGNERS Louise Parsons, Nicki Rawson
CONTRIBUTORS
Petr David, Vladimír Dobrovodský, Nicholas Lowry,
Polly Phillimore, Joy Turner-Kaděcková, Craig Turp
PHOTOGRAPHERS
Jiří Doležal, Jiří Kopřiva, Vladimír Kozlík, František Přeučil,
Milan Posselt, Stanislav Tereba, Peter Wilson
ILLUSTRATORS
Gillie Newman, Chris Orr, Otakar Pok, Jaroslav Staněk
This book was produced with the assistance of
Olympia Publishing House, Prague.
Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore
Printed and bound in China by South China Printing Co., Ltd
First American Edition, 1994
11 12 13 14 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Rudolph II (1576–1612)
Published in the United States by DK Publishing,
375 Hudson street, New York, New York 10014
INTRODUCING
Reprinted with revisions 1996, 1997, 2001, 2002, 2003,
2004, 2005, 2006, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011
PRAGUE
Copyright © 1994, 2011 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
A Penguin Company FOUR GREAT DAYS IN
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. WITHOUT LIMITING THE RIGHTS UNDER COPYRIGHT PRAGUE 10
RESERVED ABOVE, NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED, STORED IN
OR INTRODUCED INTO A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED IN ANY FORM OR BY
ANY MEANS, (ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING, OR
PUTTING PRAGUE ON
OTHERWISE), WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF BOTH THE COPYRIGHT THE MAP 12
OWNER AND THE ABOVE PUBLISHER OF THIS BOOK.
Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited THE HISTORY OF
A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress PRAGUE 16
ISSN 1542-1554
ISBN 978-0-75666-957-7
FLOORS ARE REFERRED TO THROUGHOUT IN ACCORDANCE WITH EUROPEAN USAGE;
PRAGUE AT A GLANCE 36
IE THE “FIRST FLOOR” IS THE FLOOR ABOVE GROUND LEVEL.
Front cover main image: Melantrichova Street PRAGUE THROUGH
as seen from City Hall Tower THE YEAR 50

A RIVER VIEW OF
PRAGUE 54

The information in this

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked annually.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date
as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such
as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging
arrangements and travel information, are liable to change. The
publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising
from the use of this book, nor for any material on third-party
websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book
will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views
and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher,
DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London
WC2R 0RL, Great Britain, or email: travelguides@dk.com .
Outdoor café tables

View over the rooftops to Prague Castle

 PRAGUE
AREA BY AREA
OLD TOWN 60

JEWISH QUARTER 80

PRAGUE CASTLE AND

HRADČANY 94

Wallenstein Palace and Garden in the Little Quarter

TRAVELLERS’ GETTING AROUND

NEEDS PRAGUE 240

WHERE TO STAY 184 STREET FINDER 246

RESTAURANTS, CAFÉS
AND PUBS 196

SHOPPING IN PRAGUE
212

ENTERTAINMENT IN
PRAGUE 218

Church of Our Lady before Týn SURVIVAL GUIDE

LITTLE QUARTER 122 PRACTICAL
INFORMATION 226
NEW TOWN 142 Fiacre, Old Town Square
GETTING TO PRAGUE
FURTHER AFIELD 158 236 GENERAL INDEX 258

DAY TRIPS 168 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

270
FOUR GUIDED WALKS
172 PHRASE BOOK 272

Czech beer-bottle cap

TRANSPORT MAP
INSIDE BACK COVER

Baroque façades
of houses at the
southern end of
Old Town Square
6 H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

T his Eyewitness Travel
Guide helps you get the
most from your stay in
Prague with the minimum of
difficulty. The opening sec-
section, which covers all the
important sights, with
photographs, maps and draw-
ings. It also includes day trips
from Prague and four guided
tion, Introducing Prague, walks around the city. Carefully
locates the city geographically, researched tips for hotels, restau-
sets modern Prague in its his- rants, shops and markets, cafés
torical context and describes Planning the day’s and bars, enter- tainment and
events through the entire year. itinerary in Prague sports are found in Travellers’
Prague at a Glance is an Needs. The last section, the
overview of the city’s main attractions, Survival Guide, contains useful practi-
including a feature on the River Vltava. cal advice on all you need to know, from
Section two, Prague Area by Area, starts making a telephone call to using the
on page 58. This is the main sightseeing public transport system.

FINDING YOUR WAY AROUND THE SIGHTSEEING SECTION

Each of the five sightseeing areas in the city map illustrating the heart of the area.
is colour-coded for easy reference. Every Finding your way around each chapter is
chapter opens with an introduction to the made simple by the numbering system used
part of Prague it covers, describing its history throughout. The most important sights are
and character, followed by a Street-by-Street covered in detail in two or more full pages.
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 H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E 7

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4Historic buildings are
dissected to reveal their
Stars indicate
the features
A timeline interiors; and museums and no visitor
charts the key galleries have colour-coded should miss.
events in the floorplans to help you find
history of the important exhibits.
building.
INTRODUCING
PRAGUE

FOUR GREAT DAYS IN PRAGUE 1011

PUTTING PRAGUE ON THE MAP 1215
THE HISTORY OF PRAGUE 1635
PRAGUE AT A GLANCE 3649
PRAGUE THROUGH THE YEAR 5053
A RIVER VIEW OF PRAGUE 5457
10 I N T R O D U C I N G P R A G U E

FOUR GREAT DAYS IN PRAGUE

F ew cities have as much to
offer as Prague, so it can
be difficult to decide how
best to spend your time. The
Old Town is a joy in itself, and
what makes this historic city
special. Here are four distinct
days packed with the best that
Prague has to offer. Feel free to
mix and match: leaving out a
you could amble around here museum or sight will not alter
admiring its old houses for the overall effect. The price
days. Yet, with some planning Astronomical guides include cost of travel,
you can see much more of clock food and admission fees.

NATIONAL TREASURES

• Hradčany Square guards

• Lunch in the Little Quarter
• Cross the Charles Bridge
• Watch the Town Hall clock
• Majestic art or church

TWO ADULTS allow at least Kč2,400

Morning
Starting at Hradčany Square,
admire the Prague Castle
guards in their elaborate
costumes then walk through The sumptuous interior of the Spanish synagogue
První nádvoří to St Vitus’s
Cathedral (see pp100–3), the Walk down U Zlaté studně
soul of the Castle. Take a and Sněmovní to Little Quar- LITERARY, ART AND
short tour around here before ter Square, where you can RELIGIOUS LANDMARKS
moving on to the Baroque enjoy a late lunch and admire
art collection in St George’s the architectural gems of the • “Kafka’s café”
Convent (see pp106–7). If Little Quarter (see pp124–5). • The Jewish Quarter
you fancy some souvenir • Decorative and Medieval
shopping, go for the artisans’ Afternoon Art collections
cottages on Golden Lane (see It is a short walk from here to • Quality shopping
p99). Alternatively, head to Charles Bridge (see pp136–9),
Lobkowicz Palace, and tour and on to Old Town Square. TWO ADULTS allow at least Kč4,560
the exhibition inside (see p99). Time your arrival on the hour
to see the Old Town Morning
Square’s Astronomical Jewish Prague and Franz
Clock (see pp72–4) in Kafka are inseparable, so you
action. The Old Town may want to start the day
Hall Tower (see p73) with a coffee at Café Grand
is well worth a visit Praha (see p209) in Old Town
for amazing views of Square. Kafka lived above
Prague Castle and the here and the café was once
Little Quarter. Next, named after his journalist
choose between seeing girlfriend, Milena. Refreshed,
the art in the Rococo head along Pařížská into the
Kinský Palace (see p70) Jewish Quarter (see pp80–9).
or the bare majesty of Stop at the Maisel Synagogue
St Nicholas’ Church (see (see p90), then cross the road
pp70–1). The narrow to the historic Old Jewish
streets and shops of Cemetery (see pp86–7). A
the Týn courtyard good walk around here, as
now await exploration. well as a look inside the
Enjoy dinner at the Klausen Synagogue (see p85)
Staroměstská restaurant, will set you up for lunch.
which serves traditional Try one of the local Jewish
A little respite for visitors at an outdoor Czech food in elegant restaurants or the non-Jewish
café in Old Town Square surroundings (see p203). Les Moules (see p204).

Art Nouveau exterior of the Ministerstvo pro místní rozvoj

 F O U R G R E A T D AY S I N P R A G U E 11

Afternoon
Admire the Gobelin tapestries
at the Museum of Decorative
Arts (see p84). Stroll along
to the Jewish Town Hall
(see p85), and the Old-New
Synagogue (see pp88–9).
The eastern side of the Jewish
Quarter is home to two
must-see sights: the glorious
Spanish Synagogue (see p90)
and the medieval art in St
Agnes of Bohemia Convent
(see pp92–3). After a day of
high cultural input, it’s time
for a little quality shopping
on Pařížská – a large
thoroughfare in the Jewish
Quarter. Eat at King Solomon,
one of Prague’s best Jewish
restaurants (see p204).

FAMILY DAY

• Funicular ride and tower Wenceslas Square and monument in front of the National Museum
• Mirror Maze
• Peacocks and caves Afternoon communist regime was
• Church of St James Take a stroll on Střelecký toppled. Walk the length
Ostrov, where the swans of the square and imagine it
FAMILY OF 4 allow at least Kč2,900 await the remnants of your lined with people as it was
lunchtime bread. There’s for weeks in 1989. Pay your
Morning more wildlife to be seen at respects at the Monument to
Take the funicular railway up the Wallenstein Palace (see the Victims of Communism
Petřín Hill (see p141), to see p126), home to peacocks (see p145), and to anti-com-
Prague’s mini-Eiffel Tower – and a bizarre replica of a munist martyr Jan Palach,
the Observation Tower (see limestone cave. Walk or who set himself alight here
p140) which has a spiral take the metro over in 1969 in protest at the
staircase to the top. The the river to catch the Soviet invasion. Just off the
Mirror Maze (see p140), a Old Town Square’s Square is the former Gestapo
short walk away, will keep Astronomical Clock (see HQ on Politických věznů
youngsters happy for a little pp72–4) in action. Eat at (now the national trade
while, as will the nearby one of the cafés on the office) where thousands of
Štefánik’s Observatory (see square. Then on to the Czechs were imprisoned
p140). Take the funicular Church of St James (see during WWII. Stop for
halfway back down the hill p65). Children will be lunch at the Art Nouveau
for lunch at the Nebozízek intrigued by the mummified Evropa Hotel (see p206)
(see p205) with its outdoor arm, which has been on Wenceslas Square.
patio and panoramic views. hanging above the church
entrance for 400 years. Afternoon
Walk to the Baroque Church
of St Cyril and St Methodius
HISTORY AND HEROES (see p152), where Czech
resistance fighters took their
• Wenceslas Square – the own lives in 1942. Bullet
rise and fall of Communism holes can still be seen on
• Lunch in splendid style the wall of the crypt, where
• Wartime history a fascinating museum
• Shopping for antiques chronicles the events. End
the day with a bit of antique
TWO ADULTS allow at least Kč3,060 browsing. Military Antiques
in Charvátova (see p214),
Morning is a treasure trove of relics
Start the day with a walk from the Nazi and Soviet
The Mirror Maze, great fun for along Wenceslas Square (see occupations, and military
young and old alike pp144–5) to see where the bric- a-brac from all periods.
12 I N T R O D U C I N G P R A G U E

Berlin
Putting Prague on the Map

A1
3
A15
Prague has a population of just over 1 million and
covers 500 sq km (200 sq miles) at its outer limits. It 12
is the capital of the Czech Republic and head of the

3
A1
Bó
region of Bohemia. Prague’s geographical position br
at the centre of Europe makes it a convenient base

El
A4
from which to visit both the Bohemian countryside

be
and many other major cities, such as Nuremberg, A4
Vienna, Bratislava and Budapest. Dresden 6

A17
A4

G E R M A N Y 2
A7

D8
Terezín

El
Praha

be
(PRAGUE) 10

A70 6
Karlovy Vary
(Karlsbad)
D11
Karlštejn
(Karlstein) Kutná
View looking southwest over the Vltava Hora
D5 D5
va
A9 Plzeň

D1
(Pilsen) ta
Vl

Nuremberg 3
A6
Paris
A9

A3

EUROPE NORWAY FINLAND

SWEDEN
ESTONIA RUSSIAN
FEDERATION
UNITED
KINGDOM DENMARK LATVIA
REP. OF České
IRELAND LITHUANIA A3 Budějovice
(Budweis)
BELORUSSIA
NETHERLANDS POLAND Da
n ub
BELGIUM GERMANY
e

Prague
UKRAINE
CZECH REPUBLIC
SLOVAKIA
FRANCE MOLDOVA
SWITZ. AUSTRIA HUNGARY
A25 Linz
A8
SLOVENIA ROMANIA
CROATIA
BOSNIA A8
HERZ. SERBIA
SPAIN A1
MONTENEGRO KOSOVO BULGARIA A1
ITALY ALBANIA MACEDONIA

GREECE Salzburg
TURKEY

A U S T R I A
Europe A9
The Czech Republic, right at the heart of
continental Europe, is completely landlocked.
Prague, the capital, has one airport and road
A1

and rail links to neighbouring countries.

0

A2 Graz
2

Dr
I T A L Y av
a
A9

A2
Verona
 P U T T I N G P R A G U E O N T H E M A P 13

PRAGUE AND 10

3 ENVIRONS Veltrusy
Neratovice
7 Lysá n.
Vlt
Slaný a D8 Labem
Kralupy n.

va
Od Vltavou Brandýs n. Labem-
Stará Boleslav Elbe
er
P O L A N D Švermov Roztoky Čakovice
Čelákovice D11

Kladno Horni Počernice

6 12
Ruzyně
Úvaly Český
Warsaw Unhošt Brod

A4 Wrocław
8
Řičany
333
Rudná
0 km 10
Zbraslav
3
Beroun
Karlštejn ka 0 miles 5
un

V
D5

Be ro

lt
Jilové u

D1
av
Prahy

a
4
Elbe

Řevnice

3
a
Sáz a v

Prague and Environs

33
Most sights are in the central, historic area of Prague.
These are covered in detail on pages 58–157.
Important sights outside the centre and day Cracow
trips can be found on pages 159–71. For
road and rail networks, see pages 238–9.
CZECH 7
Ostrava
REPUBLIC 48
D1
11

46

Brno

D2
a
av
or
M
D2

303

Aerial view of Greater Prague

53
VIENNA
A1 D61
S L O V A K I A
A21 A6 BRATISLAVA
A4
2
2

3
áh

M3
M1
A2

BUDAPEST

H U N G A R Y KEY
ba

7 Greater Prague
M
Rá

Airport

Motorway
Lake Balaton
Major road

0 kilometres 50 Railway line

M7
Country boundary
Zagreb 0 miles 30
14 I N T R O D U C I N G P R A G U E

Central Prague

OV A
US KOU
CHOTKOVY
SADY

D B Y
H R A

BR
N S K
É K
OT

D
N Í R I Á
M A
CH

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U
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N
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P R A G U E C A S T L E A
J E L

N
Klášter sv. Jiří
US

St George's Convent
N

A N D H R A D Č A N Y Á
IC

Á
SK LEDEBURSKÁ
Ř SK
Á JI Ř SK
E

NOVÝ Brusnice ZAHRADA

KLÁROV
KÁ
JN
SV
Ě VI
A

T Šternberskỳ palác E
Č E RN

LD ŠT
O V

Sternberg Palace
VA
KÁ

Chrám sv. Víta Královskỳ palác

KA
ÌNS

St Vitus's Cathedral
ÍNS

NO Royal Palace VALDŠTEJNSKÉ Malostranská

UC
E R

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VN NÁMĚSTÍ

S N Ě M O V NÍ
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ICK
KAP

TOMÁŠSKÁ
Á
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SK
VALDŜTEJNSK Á
P L

HRADČANSKÉ ZAHRADA

N
NÁMĚSTÍ
REN

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TE

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K E

The Loreto

LE
DU
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KE

I
N E R U D O V A SADY

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LORETÁNSKÉ MALOSTRANSKÉ
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NÁMĚSTÍ S K NÁMĚSTÍ

JOSEFSKÁ
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O O Z Kostel sv. Mikuláše

ŽI
L Ú V

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Church of St Nicholas M O DRAŽICKÉHO
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SCHÖNBORNSKÁ MALTÉZSKÉ
LOBKOVICKÁ ZAHRADA NÁMĚSTÍ
ZAHRADA VELKOPŘEVORSKÉ
O V S

Strahovskỳ klášter NÁMĚSTÍ

Strahov Monastery
M A L Á S T R A N A České

ITSKÁ
K

Muzeum
Ã

STRAHOVSKÁ Hudby

vka
ZAHRADA
L I T T L E Q U A R T E R Museum
of Music KAMPA

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SEMINÁŘSKÁ
ST ZAHRADA Sovovy M
RA Kampa M
H
O
VS of Modern
KÁ

ŽÍ
BŘE
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NÁ
SAD
ÚJEZD

ANS K É
STŘELECKÝ
PETŘÍNSKÉ OSTROV
SADY Ř Í
Č N Í
Orb and Cross
MA LO STR

An important V Í T Ě Z N Á
part of the
royal coronation
regalia, this
orb is now kept
at St Vitus’s
Cathedral
(see pp100–3).

KEY
Major sight
Metro station
Tram stop
Funicular railway
River boat boarding point
Parking
Tourist information
Hospital
Police station
Church
Synagogue View of the Church of St Lawrence
Petřín Park offers outstanding views of Prague
City wall
(see p141 and Four Guided Walks, pp176–7).
 P U T T I N G P R A G U E O N T H E M A P 15

N T I ŠF K U
Čec

REVOL
F FR AKlášter
mo
hův

VO
sv. Anežkỳ
st

O
NA St Agnes's Convent
ÁK
OŘ

NÁMĚSTÍ
PA
DV

HRADEBN
ŽÍ CURIEOVÝCH

UČNÍ
DU◊
ŘE
J O SE F O V U M I LO S R D N Y
C H
ŘÍ

A
NÁ

VOR
ŻS

KO ZÍ
O
NÍ

OD
V
EŽ O

KÁ
O

U
BŘ OV

Á
ÁK

SK
D

NÍH
A
AL
Í

J E W I S H Q U A R T E R
NÁ ÁRK

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PA
OŘ

Í
L K ŠT

BEC
B Í
DV

HA
S

TO
KO

UO
Staronová synagóga
LIS

KÁ
Old-New Synagogue ŇS
Starỳ židovskỳ hřbitov ZE

ZÍ
VĚ Á
Old Jewish Cemetery KO U
H
17 .

Mán O
L
M A I S E LO

esův
most D NÁ
PA

AS

R Y B N Á
NÁMĚSTÍ JANA
PALACHA M
Painted House
Ří

KÁ
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OK Á
ŽS
C KÁ
v a

RS
Façade
V

KÁ

Staroměstská
A

VO
VA LENTI

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VN I

The Old Town has

D
V l t a

O
O

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many Renaissance
KŘ IŽ

NS

STAROMĚSTSKÉ

KR
KÁ

NÁMĚSTÍ
KÁ Staroměstská radnice and Baroque
U RA

P L AT N É Ř S
Old Town Hall houses. Some have
DNIC

MARIÁNSKÉ
NÁMĚSTÍ MALÉ OVOCNÝ
TRH
E

NÁMĚSTÍ
colourful mural
Karlův mo
st
KA
RL O V
A
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paintings like this
O
K one in Old
N

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E
Í

Ř
K
ŘEŽ

P
Town Square
HUSOVA

Á
Z

Á A
A

N
ANENSKÉ K
(see pp66–9).
P

S
NÁB

NÁMĚSTÍ
K

Ř
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Í
S

T
Á
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K

lỳny
Á

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useum A Mustek
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A
LO

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M A N N O V

most LegiÍ N Á R O D N Í
L E N

ET

ON
V L A D I S L AV O VA

PL
A

GT

VA
O
V
Á

IN

Národní divadlo VÁCLAVSKÉ

O

NO
SH

K NÁMĚSTÍ
National Theatre Č
WA

I
SO

OST Í
R OVN
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D
VA
A

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S K

ŘÍCH
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W
H

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N
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RU V
C

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Á

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R YK O V O N Á B Ř EŽ Í

SLOVANSKÝ ICK LAZARS

Á

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PŠTRO

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MEZIBRA

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MYSLÍK ODBORŮ
N E W T O W N
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M A SA

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NÁMĚSTÍ
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V T

S O KOL S KÁ

NA
P

RY B
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N

Karlovo náměstí NÍČ

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JIRÁSKOVO KU
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NÁMĚSTÍ
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v
R E S S LO V A J E Č N Á
most
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Á
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I N
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K

M N I C E
V Y ◊

NA N E M O C
A R

U
PALACKÉHO
L O

NÁMĚSTÍ
V I N I Č N Á

Palackého Karlovo náměstí

V
NÁB ŘEŽÍ

most NÁMĚSTÍ POD

U

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Á
S K
T
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E
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Á
S K
Á Ř
NA

L
I N Art Nouveau Statue
0 metres 200
SL

O
A
P
The New Town has many examples of Art
UP

Nouveau architecture (see pp148–9).

I

0 yards 200
 I N T R O D U C I N G P R A G U E 17

THE HISTORY OF PRAGUE

P rague’s position at the

crossroads of Europe
has made it a magnet
for foreign traders since
prehistoric times. By the
in 1434. During the 16th cen-
tury, after a succession of
weak kings, the Habs-
burgs gained control,
beginning a rule that
early 10th century Prague would last for almost 400
had become a thriving years. One of the more
town with a large market enlightened of all the
place, the Old Town Square, Prague coat of arms Habsburg Emperors was
and two citadels, Prague Castle and Rudolph II. He brought the spirit of
Vyšehrad, from where its first rulers, the Renaissance to Prague through his
the Přemyslids, conducted their many love of the arts and sciences. Soon
family feuds. These were often bloody: after his death, in 1618, Prague was
in AD 935, Prince Wenceslas was mur- the setting for the Protestant revolt
dered by his brother Boleslav. Wenc- which led to the Thirty Years’ War.
eslas was later canonized and became The war’s aftermath caused a serious
the Czechs’ best-known patron saint. decline in the fortunes of the city that
During the Middle Ages Prague would revive only in the 18th century.
prospered, especially during the Prague’s many fine Baroque churches
reign of the Holy Roman Emperor, and palaces date from this time.
Charles IV. Under the government of The 19th century saw a period of
this wise and cultured ruler, Prague national revival and the burgeoning
grew into a magnificent city, larger of civic pride. The great public
than Paris or London. Charles insti- monuments – the National Museum,
gated the founding and building of the National Theatre and Rudolfinum
many institutions in Prague, including – were built. But the Habsburgs still
the first university in Central Europe, ruled the city, and it was not until
Charles University. One of the Univer- 1918 that Prague became the capital
sity’s first Czech rectors was Jan Hus, of an independent Republic. World
the reforming preacher whose execu- War II brought occupation by the
tion for alleged heresy in 1415 led to German army, followed by four
the Hussite wars. The radical wing of decades of Communism. After the
the Hussites, the Taborites, were “Velvet Revolution” of 1989, Prague
finally defeated at the Battle of Lipany has embraced a new era.

View of Prague Castle and Little Quarter, 1493

St Wenceslas and St Vitus, by Bartholomaeus Spränger, about 1600

18 I N T R O D U C I N G P R A G U E

Rulers of Prague
Three great dynasties have
shaped the history of Prague:
the Přemyslids, the Luxemburgs
and the Habsburgs. According to
Slavic legend, the Přemyslids were
founded by Princess Libuše (see p21).
Her line included St Wenceslas and
Přemysl Otakar II, whose death in battle
at Marchfeld paved the way for the Luxem-
burgs. This family produced one of the
city’s greatest rulers, Charles IV, who was
King of Bohemia and Holy Roman Emperor
(see pp24–5). In 1526, Prague came under
the control of the Austrian House of Habsburg 1346–78
Charles IV
whose rule lasted 400 years, until after World War
The mythical I, when the newly formed Czechoslovakia 1453–7
Princess gained its independence. Since then there Ladislav
Libuše Posthumus
has been a succession of presidents.
1310–46
John of Luxemburg
1140–72
Vladislav I
935–72 1305–6
Boleslav I Wenceslas III
1230–53
Wenceslas I
1278–1305
Wenceslas II
1034–55
Břetislav I

900 1000 1100 1200 1300 1400

PŘEMYSLIDS LUXEMBURGS
900 1000 1100 1200 1300 1400

972–99
Boleslav II

1061–92
Vratislav II
921–35 St Wenceslas
1173–9
Soběslav II

1197–1230
Přemysl Otakar I

1378–1419
1253–78 Přemysl Otakar II Wenceslas IV

1419–37 Sigismund
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F P R A G U E 19

1935–8 and
1945–8
Edvard Beneš

1938–9 and
1939–45
Emil Hacha
1740–80 Maria Theresa

1948–53
1790–92 Klement
Leopold II Gottwald

1953–7
1526–64
Antonín
Ferdinand I Zápotocký

1564–76
1918–35 1957–68
Maxmilian II
Tomáš Garrigue Antonín
Masaryk Novotný

1792–1835
1458–71 1657–1705 Leopold I Franz II
George of
Poděbrady 1637–57 1711–40
1968–75
Ferdinand III Charles VI Ludvík
1835–48
Ferdinand V Svoboda

1500 1600 1700 1800 1900

JAGIELLOS HABSBURGS PRESIDENTS
1500 1600 1700 1800 1900

1619–37
Ferdinand II
1516–26 1705–11 1916–18
Ludvíc II Josef I Charles I

1848–1916
1471–1516
Franz Josef
Vladislav
Jagiello 1611–19 Matthias

1975–89
Gustáv Husák

1576–1611 Rudolph II 1989–92 and

1993–2003
Václav Havel
(below)
1780–90 2003– Václav Klaus
Josef II
20 I N T R O D U C I N G P R A G U E

Prague under the Přemyslids

Early Celtic tribes, from 500 BC, were the first
inhabitants of the area around the Vltava valley.
The Germanic Marcomans arrived in 9–6 BC,
and gradually the Celts left. The first Slavic
tribes came to Bohemia in about 500 AD.
Struggles for supremacy led to the emergence of a
ruling dynasty, the Přemyslids, around 800 AD.
9th-century They built two fortified settlements: the first at
earring Prague Castle (see pp94–111), the second at EXTENT OF THE CITY
Vyšehrad, a rocky headland on the right bank 1000 AD Today
of the Vltava (see pp180–1). These remained the seats of
Czech princes for hundreds of years. One prince crucial
to the emerging Czech State was the pious Wenceslas. Boleslav’s
He enjoyed only a brief reign but left an important henchman raises
legacy in the founding of St Vitus’s rotunda (see p102). his sword to strike
the fatal blow.
St Cyril and St Methodius
Originally Greeks from Salonica, these
two brothers brought Christianity to
Moravia in about 863. They
baptized early Přemyslid, Bořivoj,
and his wife Ludmilla,
grandmother of St
Wenceslas.

Second
assassin
grapples with
the Prince’s
companion.

Early Coin
Silver coins like
this denar were
minted in the Wild Boar Figurine
royal mint of Celtic tribes made
Vyšehrad during small talismans of
Boleslav II’s reign the wild animals that they
from 967–99. hunted for food in the forested
areas around Prague.

TIMELINE

Bronze head
of a Celtic 623–658 Bohemia is part
goddess of an empire formed by
Frankish merchant, Samo

600 AD 700
500 BC
Celts in 8th century
Bohemia. 6th century Tribe of Czechs settle
Joined by Slavs settle alongside in central Bohemia
Germanic Germanic tribes in Vyšehrad acropolis – first
Marcomans Bohemia Czech settlement on the
in 1st century AD right bank of the Vltava
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F P R A G U E 21

Sword and Helmet PRINCESS LIBUŠE

St Wenceslas was buried in The legendary founder of
the southern apse of the the Přemyslids was Princess
Libuše, head of a West Slavic
rotunda of St Vitus. His
tribe. She took notice of the
sword and helmet were discord among her clansmen,
preserved as relics and and succeeded her father to
today form part of the become the first woman ruler.
Cathedral’s treasure. Choosing a humble plough-
man (Přemysl-Oráč) as consort
and ruler, she began a dynasty
that was to last 400 years.
Princess Libuše foresaw the
A monk closes glory of Prague in a vision
Wenceslas the door against
seeks Wenceslas.
sanctuary.

Rotunda of St Vitus
Founded by Wenceslas in
the early 10th century, the
rotunda became a place of
pilgrimage after the saint’s
death in 935. It stood where
St Wenceslas Chapel is today.
Roman-
arched
windows

ASSASSINATION OF Curving
PRINCE WENCESLAS stone walls

In 935, the young Wenceslas was murdered on the

orders of his brother, Boleslav. This manuscript
illustration of 1006 shows the moment when the
assassins caught up with the prince as he was about
to enter the church for the morning mass.

800 Early Christian 921 Wenceslas becomes

Dynasty of breast cross Prince of Bohemia
Přemyslids
founded 870 Prague 993 Bishop Adalbert
Castle founded Vojtèch founds
monastery at Břevnov

800 900 1000

935 Wenceslas dies

863 St Cyril and
St Methodius
bring Christianity Bishop Adalbert’s
to Moravia 920 Founding of St George’s bejewelled glove
Basilica at Prague Castle
 22 I N T R O D U C I N G P R A G U E

Early Medieval Prague

Prague Castle steadily grew in importance from
the beginning of the 9th century onwards.
Prone to frequent fires, its wooden buildings
were gradually replaced by stone and the area
developed into a sturdy Romanesque fortress
with a palace and religious buildings.
Clustered around the original outer bailey
was an area inhabited by skilled craftsmen
and German merchants, encouraged to come EXTENT OF THE CITY
and stay in Prague by Vladislav II and, later, 1230 Today
Initial letter D from Přemysl Otakar II. This came to be known
the Vyšehrad Codex as the “Little Quarter” and achieved town
status in 1257. It was joined to the Old Town by a bridge, St George’s Convent
known as the Judith Bridge. and Basilica (see
pp106–9 and p98)

PRAGUE CASTLE IN 1230

Sited on a high ridge, the Romanesque The Prince’s
fortress had protective stone walls and Palace grew into
easily-guarded gates. the Royal Palace
(see pp104 –5).
Entrance from
The White Tower Old Town
gave access
from the west.

Decorative
Comb
This ornate,
bone, fine-toothed
comb was one of the
relics of St Adalbert.
Site of Hradčany Square

External
staircase

Living room

Vaulted Romanesque
ceiling Stone House
Stone houses
These three-storeyed
St Vitus’s were built on what
Ground
houses were based Basilica and is now Nerudova
floor around a very simple Chapter House Street in the Little
floor plan. (see pp100–3) Quarter (see p130).

TIMELINE
1040 St Adalbert’s 1110 Small 1140 Strahov
remains brought 1092–1110 Reign of German Monastery
to Prague Bretislav II settlement founded
in Prague
1091 Old Town marketplace
first mentioned by travellers

1050 1100 1150

1070 Vyšehrad 1091
becomes temporary Great fire 1110–20 Reign
seat of Czech princes at Prague of Bořivoj II
Castle Romanesque stone
St Adalbert 1085 Vratislav I 1135 Seat of Czech head from Judith
with a martyr’s becomes first King princes moves from Bridge Tower
palm frond of Bohemia Vyšehrad to Prague Castle
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F P R A G U E 23

St Agnes of Bohemia WHERE TO SEE

Sister of Wenceslas I,
ROMANESQUE PRAGUE
this devout woman
built a convent for Remains can be seen in the
crypt of St Vitus’s (pp100–3),
the order of the Poor the basements of the Palace
Clares (the female of the Lords of Kunštát (p78)
counterparts of the and the Royal Palace
Franciscans) (see (pp104–5).
pp92–3). She was not
canonized until 1989.

Vratislav II
The Black The Vyšehrad Codex,
Tower was an illuminated
the exit to selection from the
Bohemia’s St George’s Basilica
gospels, was made
second town, The vaulting in the crypt dates
Kutná Hora to mark Vratislav’s
coronation in 1061. from the 12th century (p98).
(see p168).
Little Quarter
Square

St Martin’s Rotunda
This well-preserved building is
in Vyšehrad (p180).

Přemysl
Otakar II
The last great
Přemyslid king
Little Quarter Coat of Arms was killed in
Vladislav II’s portrait was battle after trying
incorporated into this 16th- to carve out a
century miniature painting. huge empire.

1233 Founding of St Agnes’s Convent

1257 Little Quarter
receives town status
1182 Romanesque
construction of Prague 1258–68 Strahov Monastery
Castle completed rebuilt in Gothic style after fire

1200 1250 1290

1212 Přemysl Otakar I
receives the Sicilian 1278 Přemysl
Golden Bull, confirming Sicilian Golden Otakar II dies
the sovereignty Bull at Marchfeld
of Bohemian kings

1172 Judith Bridge built (see pp136–9)

 24 I N T R O D U C I N G P R A G U E

Prague’s Golden Age

In the late Middle Ages, Prague attained the
height of its glory. The Holy Roman
Emperor Charles IV chose Prague as his
Imperial residence and set out to make
the city the most magnificent in Europe.
He founded a university (the Carolinum)
and built many fine churches and monasteries
in the Gothic style. Of major importance
were his town-planning schemes, such EXTENT OF THE CITY
Gift from Pope as the reconstruction of Prague Castle, 1350 Today
Urban V in 1368 the building of a new stone bridge to
replace the Judith Bridge, and the foundation of a new
quarter, the New Town. A devout Catholic, he owned Charles IV wears the Imperial
a large collection of relics which were kept, along with crown, set with sapphires,
the Crown Jewels, at Karlstein Castle (see pp168–9). rubies and pearls.

St Wenceslas
Chapel
Proud of his direct
descent from the
Přemyslids, Charles
had this shrine to
St Wenceslas built in
St Vitus’s Cathedral
(see pp100–3).

The Emperor
places the
piece of the
cross in its
reliquary.

St Wenceslas Crown
Worn by Charles at his coronation
in 1347, the Bohemian crown was
based on early Přemyslid insignia.

TIMELINE
1344 Elevation of Prague
1280 Old-New Synagogue
completed in Gothic style bishopric to archbishopric

Town Hall, Old 1333 Charles IV

Town Square makes Prague
his home

1305 1320 1335

1306 1338 John of Luxemburg gives permission
Přemyslid to Old Town to build a town hall
dynasty
ends
1310 John of Votive panel showing Charles,
Portal of Old- Luxemburg Archbishop Jan Očko and
New Synagogue occupies Prague Bohemia’s patron saints
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F P R A G U E 25

St Vitus by Master
WHERE TO SEE GOTHIC
Theodoric
This is one of a series of PRAGUE
paintings of saints by the Prague’s rich Gothic legacy
great Bohemian artist for includes three of its best-
known sights – St Vitus’s
the Holy Rood Chapel at Cathedral (pp100–3),
Karlstein Castle (c1365). Charles Bridge (pp136–9)
and the Old-New
Synagogue (pp88–9).
Another very important
building from Charles IV’s
reign is the Carolinum
(p65). Churches that have
A jewelled
retained most of their
reliquary
original Gothic features
cross was
include the Church of Our
made to
Lady before Týn (p70).
house the
new relic.

University Seal, 1348

The seal depicts the Emperor
offering the foundation docu-
ments to St Wenceslas.

Building the
New Town Carolinum
This manu- This fine oriel window was
script records part of the university (p65).
Charles IV
supervising the
building of
the New Town
during the
14th century.

CHARLES IV AND HIS RELICS

Charles collected holy relics from all
over the Empire. In about 1357 he
received a part of Christ’s cross from Old Town Bridge Tower
the Dauphin. This mural in The sculptural decoration is
Karlstein Castle is thought to be by Peter Parler (p139).
the best likeness of the Emperor.

Sculpture of young 1378 Reign of

1348 Charles IV founds Wenceslas IV by Wenceslas IV 1391 Bethlehem
Charles University Peter Parler in begins Chapel founded
St Vitus’s Cathedral
1357 Charles
Bridge begun

1350 1365 1380 1395

1361 Wenceslas IV
born, oldest son of 1378
Charles Charles dies
1348 Charles IV founds
Prague New Town Bethlehem Chapel
 26 I N T R O D U C I N G P R A G U E

Hussite Prague
In the early 15th century, Europe shook in
fear of an incredible fighting force – the
Hussites, followers of the reformist cleric, Jan
Hus. Despite simple weapons, they achieved
legendary military successes against the
Emperor’s Catholic crusades, due largely to
their religious fervour and to the discipline
of their brilliant leader, Jan Žižka, who
George of invented mobile artillery. The Hussites split EXTENT OF THE CITY
Poděbrady
into two camps, the moderate “Utraquists” (see 1500 Today
p75) and the radical “Taborites” who were finally defeated
at the Battle of Lipany in 1434, paving
the way for the moderate Hussite GOD’S WARRIORS
king, George of Poděbrady. The early-16th-century Codex of Jena
illustrated the Hussite successes. Here the
Nobles’ Letter of Protest Hussites, who included artisans and
Several hundred seals of the Bohemian barons, are shown
nobility were affixed to a letter protesting singing their
about the execution of Jan Hus. hymn, with their
blind leader, Jan
Žižka.

Jan Žižka

The priest held

a gilded
monstrance.

War Machine
For maximum effect, farm
waggons
were tied
together to form
a shield.
A chilling array of
weapons were
unleashed
including
crossbows,
flails and an
early form
of howitzer.

TIMELINE
1402–13 Jan Hus preaches at 1419 Defenestration The Taborites made
Bethlehem Chapel (see p75) of councillors from lethal weapons
New Town Hall from simple
1415 Jan Hus farm tools
burned at the stake 1434 Battle
at Constance of Lipany
1400 1420 1440

1410 Jan Hus 1424

excommunicated. Jan Žižka
Building of dies 1448 Prague conquered
Old Town Clock by troops of George of
1420 Hussites victorious Poděbrady
Jan Hus preaching The chalice, symbol under Jan Žižka at Vitkov
of the Utraquists and Vyšehrad
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F P R A G U E 27

Satan Dressed
REFORMER, JAN HUS
as the Pope
Lurid images Born to poor parents in a
satirizing the small Bohemian town, Jan
Hus became one of the most
corruption of the important religious thinkers of
church were painted his day. His objections to the
on placards and Catholic Church’s corrupt
carried through practices, opulent style and
the streets. wealth were shared by many
Czechs – nobles and peasants
alike. His reformist preaching
in Prague’s Bethlehem Chapel
The banner was
earned him a huge following,
decorated with the
noticed by the Roman Papacy,
Hussite chalice.
and Hus was excommunicated.
In 1412 Wenceslas IV, brother
of the Emperor Sigismund,
asked him to leave Prague. In
October 1414, Hus decided to
defend his teaching at the
Council of Constance. Even
though he had the Emperor’s
safe conduct, he was put in
A variety of farm
prison. The following year he
implements
was declared a heretic and
were used as burned at the stake.
makeshift weapons
by the peasants.

Hussite Shield
Wooden shields like this one that
bears the arms of the city of Prague,
were used to fill any
gaps in the
waggon
fortress’s
tight
formation.

The peasant
army Jan Hus at the Stake in 1415
marched After suffering death at the
behind Jan hands of the Church on 6 July
Žižka. 1415, Jan Hus became a revered
martyr of the Czech people.

1458
Coronation of 1485 Hussite
George of uprising in Prague
Poděbrady
(see p19) 1492–1502
Vladislav Hall built
1460 1480 1500

Chalice on 1487 First book

the outside printed in Prague
of the Týn
Church Vladislav Jagiello
denotes the 1485 King Vladislav Jagiello begins to
Hussite cause rebuild Royal Palace at Prague Castle
 28 I N T R O D U C I N G P R A G U E

The Renaissance and Rudolph II

With the accession of the Habsburgs, the Renaiss-
ance reached Prague. Art and architecture were
dominated by the Italians who enjoyed the
patronage of the Imperial court, especially that
of Rudolph II. The eccentric Rudolph often
neglected politics, preferring to indulge his
passions for collecting and science. His
court was a haven for artists, astrologers,
astronomers and alchemists, but his erratic EXTENT OF THE CITY
rule led to revolts and an attempt by his 1550 Today
Renaissance brother Matthias to usurp him. In the course
tankard of the Thirty Years’ War (see pp30–31)
many works of art from Rudolph’s Fish pond
Dalibor
collection were looted. Tower

Belvedere

Pergola

Rudolph II
A connoisseur of the
bizarre, Rudolph was
delighted by this vegetable
portrait by Giuseppe
Arcimboldo (1590).
Orchard

Formal
flower
beds

Lion House

Rabbi Löw
A revered Jewish
Mosaic Desk Top sage, he was said
Renaissance table tops with Florentine to have invented
themes of fountains and gardens were made an artificial man
at Rudolph’s court in semi-precious stones. (see pp88–9).

TIMELINE
1502 Vladislav Hall built 1526 Habsburg
rule begins with 1541 Great fire in 1556 Ferdinand I
Ferdinand I Little Quarter, the invites Jesuits to
Castle and Hradīany Prague

1520 1540 1560

1547 Unsuccessful
1538–63 uprising of towns
Ferdinand I Belvedere of Prague against
built Ferdinand I
Vladislav Hall
Charter for manglers and dyers
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F P R A G U E 29

WHERE TO SEE
RENAISSANCE PRAGUE
The Royal Garden (p111)
preserves much of the spirit
of Renaissance Prague.
Paintings and objects from
Rudolph’s collections can be
seen in the Sternberg Palace
(pp112–15), the Picture
Gallery of Prague Castle
(p98) and the Museum of
Decorative Arts (p84).
Sense of Sight
Jan Brueghel’s allegorical
painting shows the extent
of Rudolph II’s huge
collection – from globes
to paintings, jewels and
scientific instruments.
At the Two Golden Bears
Tycho
Ball Game Built in 1590, the house is
Brahe famous for its symmetrical,
Hall
The Danish carved doorway, one of the
astronomer most graceful in Prague (p71).
spent his last
years living in Prague.
A covered bridge connected
the Palace to the garden.
Belvedere
The palace is decorated with
stone reliefs by Italian architect,
Paolo della Stella (p110).

ROYAL PALACE GARDENS Ball Game Hall

No longer a medieval fortress, Prague Beautiful Renaissance sgraffito,
Castle and its gardens were given over heavily restored, covers the
to the pleasure of the King. Here Rudolph façade of this building in the
enjoyed ball games, exotic plants and his menagerie. Royal Garden (p111).

1583 Prague becomes 1618 Defenestration

seat of Imperial court 1614 Matthias of two royal
of Rudolph II; great Gate at Prague governors from
art collection begun Castle built Royal Palace
(see p105)

1580 1600 1620

1609 Publication of
Rudolph’s Imperial
Charter on religious
A ten-ducat freedom
coin (1603)
1612 Rudolph II
dies
30 I N T R O D U C I N G P R A G U E

Baroque Prague
In 1619 the Czech nobles deposed Habsburg Emperor
Ferdinand II as King of Bohemia and elected instead the
Protestant ruler Frederick of the Palatinate. The follow-
ing year they paid for their defiance at the Battle of the
White Mountain, the beginning of the Thirty Years’ War.
There followed a period of persecution of all non-Catho-
lics, accompanied by the Germanization of the country’s
institutions. The leaders in the fight against Protestantism
were the Jesuits and one of their most powerful weap- EXTENT OF THE CITY
ons was the restoration of Prague’s churches in Baroque 1750 Today
style. Many new churches
also adopted this style. A sculpture of Atlas
(1722) adorns the
top of the tower.
Mirror Chapel

Church of St Nicholas
This outstanding High
Baroque church in the
Little Quarter was the
work of the great
Dientzenhofers
(see pp128–9).

Grape
Courtyard

Measuring
the World
Some monasteries were
seats of learning. Strahov (see
pp120–21) had two libraries built,
decorated with Baroque painting. This Holy Saviour
fresco detail is in the Philosophical Hall. Church

TIMELINE
1620 Battle of the Old Town coat of arms – 1706–14
White Mountain embellished with the Imperial Decoration of
eagle and 12 flags in Charles Bridge
1627 Beginning of recognition of the defence of with statues
Counter-Reformation the city against the Swedes
committee in Prague

1625 1645 1665 1685 1705

1621 1634 1648 Swedes occupy Prague 1704–53
Execution in Wallenstein Castle. Treaty of Westphalia Building of
Old Town killed by Irish and end of Thirty Years’ War Church of
Square of 27 mercenaries 1676–8 New St Nicholas
Protestant bastions built in the Little
leaders 1631 Saxon to fortify Quarter
occupation of Prague Vyšehrad
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F P R A G U E 31

WHERE TO SEE
BAROQUE PRAGUE
The Baroque is everywhere
in Prague. Almost all the
churches were built or
remodelled in Baroque style,
the finest being St Nicholas
(pp128–9). There are also
the grand palaces and smaller
houses of the Little Quarter
(pp122–41), the façades in
Battle of the White Mountain the Old Town (pp60–79), and
In 1620 the Czech army was defeated statues on churches, street
Observatory corners and along the
Tower by Habsburg troops at Bílá Hora (White parapets of Charles Bridge.
Mountain), a hill northwest of Prague
(see p163). After the battle, Bohemia
became a de facto province of Austria.
St Clement’s Church
gave its name to the
whole complex.

Nerudova Street
At the Golden Cup, No. 16, has
preserved its typical Baroque
house sign (p130).
Italian
Chapel

Monstrance
Baroque
monstrances –
used to display the
communion host –
became increasingly
elaborate and ornate
(see pp116–17).

CLEMENTINUM
The Jesuits exercised enormous power over
education. Between 1653 and 1723 they built this Charles Bridge
College. It was the largest complex of buildings after This statue of St Francis Borgia
Prague Castle and included three churches, smaller by Ferdinand Brokof was
added in 1710 (pp136–9).
chapels, libraries, lecture halls and an observatory.

1748 Bohemian 1784 Four towns of

1740 Accession of Chancellery loses last Prague united to form Mozart at Bertramka (p160)
Empress Maria vestiges of power a single city
Theresa
1773 Jesuit Order
Maria Theresa dissolved

1725 1745 1765 1785

1757 Prague 1782 Convents and
besieged by monasteries closed
Prussians
1787 Mozart stays at Bertramka
preparing for the premiere of
Don Giovanni at the Estates
Theatre (see p65)
32 I N T R O D U C I N G P R A G U E

The National Revival in Prague

The 19th century was one of the most
glorious periods in the history of Prague.
Austrian rule relaxed, allowing the Czech
nation to rediscover its own history and
culture. Silent for so long, Czech was re-
established as an official language. Civic
pride was rekindled with the building
of the capital’s great showpieces, such
Emperor as the National Theatre, which utilized EXTENT OF THE CITY
Franz Josef
the talents of Czech architects and artists. 1890 Today
The Jewish Quarter and New Town underwent extensive
redevelopment and, with the introduction of public
transport, Prague grew beyond its ancient limits. Days of the
year

Smetana’s Libuše
Written for the scheduled
opening of the National
Theatre in 1881, the
opera drew on early
Czech legend (see
pp20–21).

Months and
zodiac signs
revolve
around the
centre.

Old Town
coat of arms

Rudolfinum
A major concert
venue beside
the Vltava,
the building
(see p84) is richly
decorated with symbols
of the art of music.

OLD TOWN CLOCK TOWER CALENDAR

In 1866, the revolving dial on Prague’s most enduring
landmark was replaced by a new one by celebrated artist,
Josef Mánes. His studies of Bohemian peasant life are incorp-
orated into pictures symbolizing the months of the year.

TIMELINE
1833 Englishman Edward Restored clock from the east
1805 Czechs, Thomas begins production face of the Town Hall Tower
Austrians and of steam engines
Russians defeated by 1848 Uprising of
Napoleon at Battle of 1818 National people of Prague
Slavkov (Austerlitz) Museum founded against Austrian troops

1800 1820 1840 1860

1815 First public demonstration of 1845 First train 1868
a vehicle driven by a steam engine arrives in Prague Foundation
stone for
1838–45 National
Old Town Hall Theatre laid
undergoes
The battle of Slavkov reconstruction
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F P R A G U E 33

Expo 95 Poster
Vojtěch Hynais WHERE TO SEE THE
designed this NATIONAL REVIVAL
poster for the Many of Prague’s remarkable
ethnographic monuments, the National
exhibition of Museum for example, were
built around this period. One
folk culture in fine example of Art Nouveau
1895. In the Art architecture is the Municipal
Nouveau style, House (p64), where the
it reflected the Mayor’s Room has murals by
new appreciation Mucha. The Rudolfinum (p84)
of regional and the National Theatre
traditions. (pp156–7) have gloriously-
decorated interiors by great
December Sagittarius artists of the day. The Prague
Museum has many objects
Municipal House from the late 19th and early
Allegories of civic 20th centuries as well as the
virtues painted by original painting for Mánes’
Alfons Mucha Old Town Clock.
adorn this Art
Nouveau
interior.

Jewish Quarter
From 1897 onwards,
the slum housing of the National Museum
ghetto was replaced with The Neo-Renaissance façade
new apartment blocks. dominates the skyline (p147).

National Theatre
The décor has murals by Czech
artists, including Aleš (pp156–7).

1883 Re-opening of 1914 World War I

the National Theatre 1896 Proper city transport begins
National Theatre of electric trams starts
1891 1916 Emperor
Jubilee 1912 Municipal Franz Josef dies
Exhibition House opens

1880 1900
1884–91 Building of 1897–1917 Slums of The satirical novel
the National Museum Jewish Ghetto cleared Good Soldier
Švejk (see p154)
1883 First public Early explored the futility
1881 Newly opened lighting with electric trams of war and the
National Theatre destroyed electric lamps inept Austrian
by fire, then rebuilt military
34 I N T R O D U C I N G P R A G U E

Prague after Independence

Just 20 years after its foundation in 1918,
the Czechoslovak Republic was helplessly
caught up in the political manoeuvring that 1968 Alexander
preceded Nazi domination of Europe. Dubček elected to
Prague emerged from World War II post of First Secretary

Letná Park almost unscathed by bombings, no

metronome longer part of a Nazi protectorate but of
a Socialist republic. Any resistance was
brutally suppressed. Ultimately, the intellectuals spoke 1966 Jiří Menzel’s Closely
Observed Trains wins
out, demanding observance of civil rights. Denial of Oscar for Best Foreign
such rights led these dissidents to unite and prepare Film, drawing the world’s
attention to Czech cinema
for the “Velvet Revolution”. In the end, it was a
playwright, Václav Havel, who was swept into power
at Prague Castle to lead the country at the start of a
long and often difficult return to independence.
1935 Edvard Beneš succeeds
Masaryk as President. Nazi- 1945 Soviet Red Army enters Prague on
funded Sudeten German Party, 9 May to rapturous welcome, following four
led by Konrad Henlein, makes days of uprisings. In October, provisional
election gains National Assembly set up under Beneš
1920 Avant- 1962 Statue
1952 Most famous
garde left- 1938 Munich of many show tri- of Stalin in
wing artists Agreement als under Gott- Letná Park
form Devětsil hands over wald, Slánský Trial demolished
movement in parts of sends 11 senior (replaced, in
Prague’s Republic to politicians to gal- 1991, by a
Union Café Hitler. Beneš lows as Trotskyites giant
flees country and traitors metronome)
Edvard Beneš
1918 1930 1945 1960

1918 1930 1945 1960

1942 Tyranni- 1960 Czechoslovak

1924 cal Nazi “Pro- Socialist Republic
Death of tector” for (ČSSR) proclaimed
Franz only eight
Kafka, months, Rein- 1955 Largest 1967 First Secretary
author of hard Heydrich statue of and President,
The Trial assassinated Stalin in the Antonín Novotný,
by Czech world imprisons dis-
1932 Traditional resistance unveiled in sident writers
gymnastic rally or Letná Park,
slet takes place at 1948 Communist Party overlooking
Strahov stadium assumes power under city 1968 Moderate Alex-
1918 Klement Gottwald; ander Dubček adopts
Foundation of announces 89% sup- the programme of
Czechoslovak port in May elections liberal reforms
Republic. Tomáš known as “Prague
Masaryk first Spring”. On 21
democratically 1958 Premiere of innovative animated August, Warsaw Pact
elected film, The Invention of Destruction occupies Czechoslo-
President directed by Karel Zeman vakia and over 100
protesters are killed
as troops enter
Prague

Welcome Home
poster, to mark the
President’s return on 1939 German troops march into Prague;
21 December 1918 city declared capital of Nazi Protectorate of
Bohemia and Moravia. Emil Hácha is Presi-
dent under the German protectorate 1969 Jan Palach burns to death in
protest at Soviet occupation
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F P R A G U E 35

1989 The “Velvet Rev-

olution”: growing civil
discontent prompts
demonstrations and
strikes. Havel unites
opposition groups to
form Civic Forum.
Temporary Govern-
ment promises free
elections; President
Husák resigns
and Václav Havel
is sworn in by
popular demand

1977 Human
rights manifesto
Charter 77 drawn
up after arrest of 1990 First democratic
band, Plastic elections for 60 years The coat of arms of the
People produce 99% turnout, President of the Czech
with 60% of vote going Republic has the
to alliance of Civic inscription “truth
Forum and People victorious” and the
Against Violence arms for Bohemia
(top left, bottom right),
1993 The splitting Moravia (top right) and
of Czechoslovakia. Silesia (bottom left)
Prague becomes
capital of new
Czech Republic
1979 Playwright
1999 Czech Republic
Václav Havel
founds Committee joins NATO
for the Defence of 2002 Prague suffers its worst
the Unjustly flooding in 150 years
Persecuted and is
sent to prison 2004 Czech Republic joins the EU

1975 1990 2005 2020

1975 1990 2005 2020

1989 Canonization of 2001 The biggest

St Agnes of Bohemia street protests
(see pp92–3) takes since the end of
place on 4 November. communism force
Vatican commissions Jiři Hodač to
painting by dissident resign as director-
Prague-born artist general of state
Gustav Makarius Tauc television
for the occasion.
Czech legend that
miraculous events
will accompany 2008 Václav Klaus
her elevation sworn into second five-
to sainthood year term as President
prove correct
when the “Vel-
vet Revolution”
begins on 17
November

1984 Jaroslav
Seifert, signatory
of Charter 77, wins
Nobel Prize for
Literature but
cannot collect
prize in person
 I N T R O D U C I N G P R A G U E 37

PRAGUE AT A GLANCE

T here are almost 150 places of

interest described in the Area
by Area section of this book.
A broad range of sights is covered:
from the ancient Royal Palace, which
of Wenceslas Square (see pp144–5).
To help you make the most of your stay,
the following 12 pages are a time-
saving guide to the best Prague has to
offer visitors. Museums and galleries,
was the site of the Defenestration churches and synagogues, palaces
of 1618 (see p105), to cubist houses and gardens all have their own sec-
built in the Jewish Quarter in the 1920s tions. Each sight has a cross reference
(see p91); from the peaceful oasis of to its own full entry. Below are the
Petřín Park (see p141), to the bustle attractions that no visitor should miss.

PRAGUE’S TOP TEN SIGHTS

Old Town Square National Theatre Church of St Nicholas

See pp66 –9. See pp156–7. See pp128–9.

Charles Bridge Old Town Hall

See pp136–9. See pp72–4.

Wallenstein Palace and Old Jewish Cemetery St Vitus’s Cathedral

Garden See p126. See pp86–7. See pp100–3.

Prague Castle St Agnes’s Convent

See pp96–7. See pp92–3.

Mucha’s allegory of Vigilance in the Mayor’s Room in the Municipal House (see p64)
38 I N T R O D U C I N G P R A G U E

Prague’s Best: Museums and Galleries

With more than 20 museums and almost 100
galleries and exhibition halls, Prague is a city of
unexpected and rare delights. Religious master-
pieces of the Middle Ages vie with the more recent
opulence of Art Nouveau and the giants of modern
art. Several galleries have opened since 1989 with
many more temporary exhibitions. There are
museums devoted to the history of the state, the
city of Prague and
its people, many
of them housed St George’s Convent
in buildings that Among the 19th-century art
are historical land- on display is the historical
marks and works painting of King George of
of art in them- Poděbrady and Matthias
selves. This map Corvinus of Hungary by
gives some of the Czech artist Mikoláš Aleš.
highlights, with a
detailed overview
on pages 40–41.

Sternberg Palace
The collection of European Prague Castle
art here is outstanding, and Hradčany
represented in works such
as The Feast of the Rosary
by Albrecht Dürer (1506).
V A
V L T A

The Loreto Little

Quarter
The offerings
of devout local
aristocrats form
the basis of this
collection of reli-
gious decorative
art. In 1721 this jewel-
encrusted, tree-shaped
monstrance was given to
the treasury by Countess
Wallenstein.

Smetana Museum
The life and work of this 19th-
century Czech composer are
remembered beside the river
that inspired one of his most
famous pieces – the Vltava.

Schwarzenberg Palace
The ornate Renaissance palace, formerly the
home of the Museum of Military History, is
now a gallery exhibiting Baroque art.
 P R A G U E A T A G L A N C E 39

Museum of Decorative Arts

Five centuries of arts and crafts are represented
here, with particularly impressive collections of
Bohemian glass, graphic art and furniture. This
carved and painted
chest dates from
1612.

St Agnes of Bohemia Convent

This collection includes the 14th-
century Resurrection of Christ by
the Master of the Třeboň Altar.

Maisel Synagogue
One of the most important
collections of Judaica in
the world is housed in the
Maisel Synagogue and other
Jewish
Quarter
buildings of the State Jewish
Museum. The displays
include religious artefacts,
furnishings and books. This
illuminated page is from the
manuscript of the Pesach
Haggadah of 1728.
Old Town
0 metres 500

0 yards 500

National Museum
The vast skeleton of a
whale dominates the
other exhibits in one
of seven grand halls
devoted to zoology.
New Town
The museum’s other
displays include fine
collections of minerals
and meteorites.

Dvořák Museum
This viola, which belonged to the influential 19th-century
Czech composer, is among the personal effects and musical
scores on display in the charming Michna
Summer Palace.
 40 I N T R O D U C I N G P R A G U E

Exploring the Museums and Galleries

The city’s museums give a fascinating insight
into the history of the Czechs and of
Prague’s Jewish population. Also
a revelation to visitors unfamiliar with
the culture is the art of the Gothic and
Baroque periods and of the 19th-century
Czech National Revival. The major museums
and galleries are cramped for space, but plans
Carved figure on are under way to put more of their
façade of the Museum collections on show in the near future.
of Decorative Arts

and other evidence of just how

CZECH PAINTING AND splendid the original collection
SCULPTURE must have been.
For some of the best Bohe-
The most important and wide- mian art, you must visit the
ranging collection in Prague is Baroque works at the
that of the National Gallery. Its Schwarzenberg Palace, just 14th-century Madonna Aracoeli,
holdings of Czech art are outside the main gate of the St Vitus Treasure, Prague Castle
shown at three venues: Castle. These include exam-
medieval art at St Agnes’s ples by Baroque masters Gutfreund. The development
Convent; works dating from Karel Škréta and Petr Brandl. of such ground breaking
the 19th century at St Within the Castle but current- groups as Osma, Devětsil,
George’s Convent; and 20th- ly without a permanent dis- Skupina 42 and the 12.15
to 21st-century art at the play space is the St Vitus group is also well documented.
Trade Fair Palace. Treasure, a collection of
The Picture Gallery of religious pieces including a
Prague Castle is a reminder of Madonna from the School of EUROPEAN PAINTING
Emperor Rudolph II’s once- Master Theodoric. AND SCULPTURE
great collection. Alongside the Centuries of Czech sculpture
paintings are are housed in the Lapidarium On view at Sternberg Palace
documents at the Exhibition Ground. is an exceptional range of
Among its exhibits is statuary masterpieces by Europe’s
formerly found on the Charles finest artists from antiquity
Bridge, and the Marian pillar to the 18th century.
that used to stand in the Old The most treasured work in
Town Square. the collection is the Feast of
The collection at the St the Rosary by Albrecht Dürer.
Agnes of Bohemia Convent Works by 17th-century Dutch
includes Bohemian and central masters such as Rubens and
European Gothic painting and Rembrandt also feature.
sculpture, including panels The museum of 20th- and
painted for Charles IV by 21st-century art at the Trade
Master Theodoric. Works by Fair Palace has a fine collection
19th- and 20th-century of Picassos and Rodin bronzes,
Prague artists can be seen as well as works from almost
at the Prague Gallery. Its every Impressionist, Post-
branches include the Impressionist and Fauvist.
Baroque Troja Palace, Three notable self-portraits
where the architecture are those of Paul Gauguin
makes a great backdrop. (Bonjour Monsieur Gauguin,
Exhibitions are drawn 1889), Henri Rousseau (1890)
from the gallery’s 3,000 and Pablo Picasso (1907).
paintings, 1,000 statues Modern German and Austrian
and 4,000 prints. painting is also on show, with
The superb museum of works by Gustav Klimt and
20th- and 21st-century Egon Schiele. The Dance of
art at the Trade Fair Palace Life, by Norwegian Edvard
represents almost every Munch, is considered greatly
20th-century artistic influential upon Czech avant-
movement. Cubism and garde art.
Art Nouveau are both The other main venue for
Commerce by represented, as are the European art is the Picture
Otto Gutfreund (1923), Trade Fair Palace 1920s figures of Otto Gallery of Prague Castle,
 P R A G U E A T A G L A N C E 41

which focuses on European A branch of the museum

painters of the 16th to 18th at Výtoň, on the banks
centuries. As well as Titian’s of the Vltava, depicts
superb The Toilet of a Young the way of life of a
Lady, there are also works in former settlement.
the collection by Rubens and Another at
Tintoretto. The exquisite Vyšehrad records
building of Schwarzenberg the history of this
Palace now houses a gallery royal seat.
of Baroque art. The Museum of
Military History,
housed in the
MUSIC Schwarzenberg
Palace since 1945 but
Two Czech composers merit now on U Pamatniku 3,
their own museums, as does displays battle charts,
Prague’s much-loved visitor, weaponry, uniforms 16th-century astrolabe from the
Mozart. The Smetana and other military regalia. National Technical Museum
Museum, Dvořák Museum, The Lobkowicz Collection,
housed in the Michna housed in the 16th century
Summer Palace, and Mozart Lobkowicz Palace at Prague SCIENCE AND
Museum all contain personal Castle, includes rare books TECHNOLOGY
memorabilia, musical scores and manuscripts.
and correspondence. In the The Jewish Museum is A vast exhibition hall holds
summer, concerts are held made up of various sites in the transport section of the
on the terrace of the Mozart the Jewish Quarter, including National Technical Museum.
Museum, a delightful 17th- the High Synagogue, Maisel Ranks of vintage cars,
century villa. Synagogue and the Old motorcycles and steam
The Museum of Music has Jewish Cemetery. Among its engines fill the space, and
many rare and historic instru- collections are holy artefacts over them hang examples
ments, and a number of taken from other Jewish of early flying machines.
scores by famous composers. communities and brought to Other sections in the museum
Prague by the Nazis as part of trace the progress of sciences
a chilling plan for a museum such as electronics. Closed for
HISTORY of “an extinct race”. Another several years to allow for
moving display is of drawings long-overdue renovation,
The historical collections made by children from the the museum is due to
of the National Museum Terezín concentration camp. reopen in autumn 2010.
are held at the main
Wenceslas Square building. FINDING THE MUSEUMS
The Prague Museum centres DECORATIVE ARTS
on the history of the city, AND GALLERIES
with period rooms, historical With glassware spanning Dvořák Museum p154
prints and a model of Prague centuries, from medieval to Exhibition Ground p162
in the 19th century, made of modern, porcelain and High Synagogue p85
paper and wood by the litho- pewterware, furniture and Kampa Museum of
grapher Antonín Langweil. textiles, books and posters, Modern Art p135
the Museum of Decorative Lobkowicz Palace p99
Arts in the Jewish Quarter The Loreto pp116–17
is one of Prague’s best, but Maisel Synagogue p90
only a small selection of its Mozart Museum p160
holdings is on show. Look Museum of Decorative Arts p84
out for specialized temporary Museum of Music p141
exhibitions mounted either at Náprstek Museum p75
the museum itself or at other National Technical Museum p162
venues in Prague. National Museum p147
Many other museums have Old Jewish Cemetery pp86–7
examples of the decorative Picture Gallery of Prague Castle p98
arts, ranging from grandiose Prague Museum p161
monstrances – including one St Agnes of Bohemia pp92–3
with 6,222 diamonds – in the St George’s Convent pp106–9
treasury of The Loreto to Schwarzenberg Palace p118
simple everyday furnishings Smetana Museum p79
in the Prague Museum. There Sternberg Palace pp112–15
is also a fascinating collection Trade Fair Palace pp164–5
of pre-Columbian artefacts Troja Palace pp166–7
Bohemian Baroque glass goblet from Central America in the Zbraslav Monastery p163
(1730), Museum of Decorative Arts Náprstek Museum.
42 I N T R O D U C I N G P R A G U E

Prague’s Best: Churches and Synagogues

The religious buildings of Prague vividly record the
city’s changing architectural styles, and many are
treasure houses of religious art. But they
also reflect Prague’s times of religious
and political strife, the lives of its
people, its setbacks and growth as a
city. This map features highlights of
their architecture and art, with a more
detailed overview on pages 44–5.
St George’s Basilica
St George, sword raised to slay the
St Vitus’s Cathedral dragon, is portrayed in this late-Gothic
The jewel of the cathedral is the relief, set above the doorway of the mag-
Chapel of St Wenceslas. Its walls nificent early Renaissance south portal.
are decorated with semi-precious
stones, gilding and frescoes. Eliza-
beth of Pomerania, the fourth
and last wife of Charles IV, is
shown at prayer in the fresco
above the Gothic altar.
Prague Castle
and Hradčany

A
A V
The Loreto
This shrine to the
Virgin Mary

V L T
has been a
place of Little Quarter
pilgrimage
since 1626.
Each hour,
its Baroque
clock tower
chimes a Church of St Thomas
hymn on the The skeleton of the martyr St Just rests
carillon of 27 bells. in a glass coffin below a
Crucifixion by
Antonín Stevens,
one of several
superb works of
religious art in
this church.

Church of
St Nicholas
In the heart of the
Little Quarter, this
is Prague’s finest
example of High
Baroque. The dome
over the high altar
is so lofty that early
worshippers feared
it would collapse.
 P R A G U E A T A G L A N C E 43

Church of Our Lady

before Týn
Set back behind a row of
arcaded buildings, the
many-spired twin towers
of the church dominate
the eastern end of Old
Town Square. The Gothic,
Renaissance and Baroque
features of the interior
Old-New Synagogue create striking contrasts.
Prague’s oldest synagogue
dates from the 13th century.
Its Gothic main portal is
carved with a vine which
bears twelve bunches of
grapes symbolizing the
tribes of Israel.
Church of St James
Consecrated in 1374, this
church was restored to new
Jewish Baroque glory after a fire in
Quarter 1689. Typical of its
grandeur is this 18th-
century monument
to chancellor Jan
Vratislav of Mitrovice.
Fine acoustics and a
superb organ make
Old Town the church a popular
venue for concerts.

Slavonic
Monastery Emauzy
These cloisters hold
a series of precious
frescoes from three
Gothic masters
depicting scenes
from the Old and
New Town New Testaments.

0 metres 500

0 yards 500

Church of
St Peter and St Paul
Remodelled many
times since the 11th
century, the design of
this church is now
1890s Neo-Gothic. This
striking relief of the
Last Judgment marks
the main entrance.
 44 I N T R O D U C I N G P R A G U E

Exploring Churches and Synagogues

Religious building began in Prague in the 9th century,
reaching its zenith during the reign of Charles IV
(see pp24–5). The remains of an 11th-century
synagogue have been found, but during the
19th-century clearance of the overcrowded
Jewish ghetto three synagogues were lost.
Many churches were damaged during the
Hussite rebellions (see pp26–7). The
political regime of the 20th century also
took its toll, but now churches and
Altar, Capuchin synagogues have been reclaimed and
Monastery restored, with many open to visitors.

Prince Vratislav I. Extensive

ROMANESQUE reconstruction was carried out
after a fire in 1142, but its
Three reasonably well- chancel, with some exquisite
preserved Romanesque frescoes on its vaulting, is a
rotundas, dating from the Late-Romanesque gem. High, Gothic windows at the east
11th and 12th centuries, still The Strahov Monastery, end of St Vitus’s Cathedral
exist in Prague. The oldest is founded in 1142 by Prince
the St Martin’s Rotunda; the Vladislav II (see pp22–3), has nave epitomize the style.
others are the rotundas of the retained its Romanesque core Other notable Gothic churches
Holy Rood and of St Longinus. in spite of fire, wars and are Our Lady before Týn and
All three are tiny, with naves extensive renovation. Our Lady of the Snows.
only 6 m (20 ft) in diameter. Important for its historical
By far the best-preserved significance is the reconstruc-
and most important Roman- GOTHIC ted Gothic Bethlehem Chapel
esque church is St George’s where Jan Hus (see p27)
Basilica, founded in 920 by Gothic architecture, with preached for 10 years.
its ribbed vaulting, flying The superb Gothic frescoes
buttresses and pointed arches, found in abundance at the
reached Bohemia in about Slavonic Monastery Emauzy,
1230 and was soon adopted were badly damaged in World
into religious architecture. War II, but have been restored.
The first religious building
in Gothic style was the St
Agnes of Bohemia Convent, RENAISSANCE
founded in 1233 by Wenceslas
I’s sister, Agnes. Prague’s old- In the 1530s the influence of
est synagogue, the Old-New Italian artists living in Prague
Synagogue, built in 1270, is sparked the city’s Renaissance
rather different in style to the movement. The style is more
churches but is still a suberb clearly seen in secular than
example of Early Gothic. religious building. The Late-
The best example of Prague Renaissance period, under
11th-century Romanesque Rotunda Gothic is St Vitus’s Cathedral. Rudolph II (1576–1611), offers
of St Martin in Vyšehrad Its fine tracery and towering the best remaining examples.

DOMES AND SPIRES Gothic Baroque

The domes and spires of Prague’s churches are
the city’s main landmarks, as the view from the
many vantage points will confirm. You will see
a variety of spires, towers and domes: Gothic
and Neo-Gothic soar skywards, while Baroque
often have rounded cupolas and onion domes.
The modern top of the 14th-century Slavonic
Monastery, added after the church was struck
in a World War II air raid, is a rare example of
modernist religious architecture in Prague. Its
sweeping, intersecting twin spires are a bold
reinterpretation of Gothic themes, and a striking Church of Our Lady Church of St Nicholas in the
addition to the city’s skyline. before Týn (1350–1511) Little Quarter (1750)
 P R A G U E A T A G L A N C E 45

The High Synagogue and the was Our Lady Victorious, built
Pinkas Synagogue retain in 1611–13. St Nicholas in the
strong elements of the style: Little Quarter took almost
the former in its 1586 exterior, 60 years to build. Its lush
the latter in the reworking of interior and frescoed vault
an original Gothic building. make it Prague’s most
The Church of St Roch in important Baroque building,
the Strahov Monastery is followed by The Loreto
probably the best example of (1626–1750), adjoining the
Late-Renaissance “Mannerism”. Capuchin Monastery. The
father-and-son team, Christoph
and Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer
designed both buildings, and 19th-century Neo-Gothic portal,
St John on the Rock and Church of St Peter and St Paul
St Nicholas in the Old Town.
A special place in Prague’s
history was occupied by the NEO-GOTHIC
Jesuit Clementinum. This
influential university’s church During the height of the
was the Holy Saviour. The 19th-century Gothic Revival
Baroque style is closely (see pp32–3), St Vitus’s
linked with Jesuit teachings: Cathedral was completed, in
Renaissance-influenced vaulting, Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer accordance with the original
Pinkas Synagogue (1535) was educated here. Gothic plan. Work by Josef
Klausen Synagogue (now Mocker, the movement’s
the Jewish Museum) was leader, aroused controversy
BAROQUE built in 1689 with Baroque but his St Peter and St Paul
stuccoed barrel vaults. at Vyšehrad is a well-loved
The Counter-Reformation Many early buildings were landmark. The triple-naved
(see pp30–31) inspired the given Baroque facelifts. The basilica of St Ludmilla in
building of new churches and Gothic nave of St Thomas has Náměstí Míru was also
the revamping of existing ones Baroque vaulting, and the designed by Mocker.
for a period of 150 years. once-Gothic St James went
Prague’s first Baroque church Baroque after a fire in 1689. FINDING THE CHURCHES
AND SYNAGOGUES
St Agnes of Bohemia pp92–3
Bethlehem Chapel p75
Capuchin Monastery p118
Clementinum p79 (see also
History of Prague p31)
St George’s Basilica p98
High Synagogue p85
Holy Saviour (see Knights of the
Cross Square p79)
St James p65
St John on the Rock p153
Klausen Synagogue p85
Loreto pp116–17
St Ludmilla (see Náměstí
Míru p161)
Nave ceiling of the Church of St Nicholas in the Little Quarter St Martin’s Rotunda (see
Vyšehrad Walk p180)
St Nicholas in the Little
Baroque Neo- Modernist Quarter pp128–9
Gothic St Nicholas in the Old Tow p70
Old-New Synagogue pp88–9
Our Lady before Týn p70
Our Lady of the Snows p146
Our Lady Victorious p130
St Peter and St Paul (see
Vyšehrad Walk p181)
Pinkas Synagogue p84
Slavonic Monastery Emauzy p150
Strahov Monastery pp120–21
St Thomas p127
Loreto St Peter and St Paul Slavonic Monastery Emauzy St Vitus’s Cathedral pp100–3
(1725) (1903) (1967)
46 I N T R O D U C I N G P R A G U E

Prague’s Best: Palaces and Gardens

Prague’s palaces and gardens are among the most
important historical and architectural monuments in
the city. Many palaces house museums or galleries
(see pp38–41), and some are concert venues.
The gardens range from
formal, walled oases with
fountains and grand statuary,
to open spaces beyond the
city centre. This map features
some of the best palaces and
gardens, with a detailed
overview on pages 48–9.
Belvedere
Royal Garden The Singing Fountain (1568) stands
Though redesigned in the 19th in front of the exquisite Renaissance
century, the Renaissance summer palace.
garden preserves much of its
original character. Historic
statues still in place include a
pair of Baroque lions (1730) Prague Castle
guarding the entrance. and Hradčany

0 metres 500

0 yards 500
Little Quarter

South Gardens
Starting life as the Castle’s defensive
bastions, these gardens afford a wonderful
view of Prague. First laid out as a park in
1891, their present design was landscaped
by Josip Plečnik 40 years later.

Wallenstein Palace
Built in 1624–30 for
Duke Albrecht of
Wallenstein, this vast
Baroque palace was
intended to outshine
Prague Castle. Over
20 houses and a town
gate were demolished
to make room for the Wallenstein Garden
palace and garden. The garden statues are copies
This Fountain of of 17th-century bronzes. The
Venus (1599), stands originals were plundered by
in front of the arches the Swedes in 1648.
of the sala terrena.
 P R A G U E A T A G L A N C E 47

Palace Gardens
In the Baroque
period, five
palace gardens
with spectacular
terraces were
laid out on the
hillside below
Prague Castle.

Kinský Palace
The Kinský coat of arms adorns
the pink and white stuccoed
façade designed by Kilian Ignaz
Dientzenhofer. The Rococo palace
is now part of the National Gallery.

Jewish Quarter
A
A V

Clam-Gallas Palace
Four giant statues of
V L T

Hercules (c.1715) by
Matthias Bernard
Braun show the hero
Old Town
straining to support the
weight of the massive
Baroque front
portals of the palace.

Villa Amerika
This charming villa was designed by
Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer in 1712. It
now houses the Dvořák Museum. The
New Town garden’s sculptural decorations are
from the workshop of Antonín Braun.

Kampa Island
A tranquil waterside park was created
on the island after the destruction of its
original gardens in World War II.
 48 I N T R O D U C I N G P R A G U E

Exploring the Palaces and Gardens

Prague boasts an amazing number of palaces and
gardens, spanning centuries. Comparatively few
palaces were lost to the ravages of war. Instead, they
tended to evolve in style during restoration or
enlargement. Palace gardens became fashionable in
the 17th century, but could only be laid out where
there was space, such as below Prague Castle. More
vulnerable to change, most have been reland-
Statue scaped several times. In the 19th century, and
on Kampa again after 1989, many of the larger parks and
Island private gardens were opened up to the public.

the vaulted ground floor of

MEDIEVAL PALACES the 13th-century building
survives as the basement of a
The oldest palace in Prague is later Gothic structure.
the Royal Palace at Prague
Castle. In the basement is the Bronze Singing Fountain in the
Romanesque ground floor, RENAISSANCE PALACES Royal Garden by the Belvedere
started in about 1135. It has
been rebuilt many times, One of the most beautiful worked on the Belvedere. Its
particularly between the 14th Renaissance buildings in graceful arcades and columns,
and 16th centuries. The heart Prague is the 16th-century all covered with rich reliefs,
of the Palace, Vladislav Hall, Schwarzenberg Palace. The make this one of the finest
dates from the 1490s and is work of Italian architects, its Renaissance buildings north of
late Gothic in structure. Less façade is entirely covered the Alps. The Martinic Palace,
well known is the Palace of with geometric, two-tone built in 1563, was the first
the Lords of Kunštát. Here, sgraffito designs. Italians also example of late-Renaissance
building in Prague. Soon after
came the Lobkowicz Palace.
Its terracotta relief-decorated
windows and plaster sgraffito
have survived later Baroque
modifications. The huge
Archbishop’s Palace was
given a later Rococo façade
over its Renaissance structure.

BAROQUE PALACES

Many palaces were built in

the Baroque style, and
examples of all its phases still
exist in Prague. A handsome,
Southern façade of Troja Palace and its formal gardens if ostentatious, early Baroque

DECORATIVE PORTALS AND GATES

The elaborate gates and portals of Prague’s
palaces are among the most beautiful and
impressive architectural features in the city.
Gothic and Renaissance portals have often
survived, even where the buildings them-
selves have been destroyed or modified
by renovations in a later architectural style.
The period of most prolific building was
the Baroque, and distinctive portals from
this time can be seen framing many a grand
entrance around the city. Statues of giants,
heroes and mythological figures are often
depicted holding up the doorways. These
were not merely decorative but acted as
an integral element of support. Gateway to Court of Honour of Prague Castle (1768)
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