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DESIGN
ELEMENTS
D
Quayside Publishing Group
100 Cummings Center
Suite 406-L
Beverly, Massachusetts 01915-6101
Telephone: (978) 282-9590
E
Fax: (978) 283-2742
www.rockpub.com
Visit RockPaperInk.com to share your opinions,
creations, and passion for design.
ISBN: 978-1-59253-927-7
Digital edition published in 2014
eISBN: 978-1-62788-057-2
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
DESIGN
ELEMENTS
Understanding the
rules and knowing when
to break them
SECOND EDITION
UPDATED + EXPANDED
SEEING FORM AND SPACE 28 THE IDENTITY OF COLOR 88 STRUCTURE AND OPTICS 130 THE
PUTTING STUFF INTO SPACE 58 COLOR SYSTEMS 112 MECHANICS OF TEXT 146 PRE
COMPOSITIONAL STRATEGIES 72 EMOTIONS AND MESSAGES 122 TEXTURE AND SPACE 162 CON
CONTRIBUTORS 318
E
ENTS 186 232
THE PUTTING
WORLD OF IT ALL
IMAGE TOGETHER
chapter 04 chapter 05
WHAT IS
GRAPHIC
DESIGN?
06 07
The designer uses imagery, symbols, type, In contrast to other disciplines in the visual
color, and materials—whether printed arts, graphic design’s purpose is typically
or on-screen—to represent the ideas that defined by a client—it’s a service paid for
must be conveyed; and to organize them by a company or other organization—rath-
into a unified experience that is intended er than generated from within the designer.
to evoke a particular response. Although artistic creation historically had
been commissioned by patrons, it wasn’t
While more or less confined to the creation until the 1830s that the mystique of the
of typefaces and books from the Middle bohemian painter as “expresser of self ”
Ages until the Industrial Revolution of the arose and, consequently, a marked distinc-
late 1700s and early 1800s, design expanded tion between fine and commercial art.
into advertising, periodicals, signage, Designers encouraged this distinction for
posters, and ephemera with the appearance philosophical, as well as strategic, reasons,
of a new, consumer marketplace. The term especially as they began to seek recognition
“graphic design” itself appeared more for design as a profession that could add
recently (attributed to W. A. Dwiggins, an tremendous value to corporate endeavors.
American illustrator and book designer, in
1922, to describe his particular activities). In the fifty-odd years since, the graphic
The formal study of design as an indepen- designer has been touted as everything
dent discipline didn’t come about until the from visual strategist to cultural arbiter—
1920s, and the term entered into wide usage and, since the mid 1970s, as an “author”
only after World War II. as well—shaping not only the corporate
07 design elements
Broch
09 design elements
10 11
11 design elements
Ooo
carr
abst
Zippered plastic bags with give
evidence stickers package the It’s
books in a series of detective effe
novels. The books themselves
become artifacts of the crime ute
novels. THOMAS CSANO CANADA eye
Kno
why
03
One of the reasons you like this
poster so much is that it speaks
to our common knowledge
so clearly; it feels almost as
if it hasn’t been designed. A
hot-colored circle floating over
a cool blue horizon and punctu-
ated by a refreshing yellow field
y pretty much explains itself.
ADAMSMORIOKA UNITED STATES
—
BE UNIVERSAL.
he
h
A very large audience, not a few people who
ols are “in the know,” must interpet what you
mean with those shapes, colors, and images.
Sure, you get it, and other designers will get
it, but ultimately it’s the public who must
do so. Speak to the world at large; draw
upon humanity’s shared narratives of form
and metaphor and make connections, not
boundaries. If you’re unsure whether your
ideas make sense, show them to someone
on the street and find out.
13 design elements
05
Exquisite, decisive control of
the minimal elements, align-
ments, and the spaces around
and between them creates a
dynamic, almost architectural
space that is active and three-
dimensional ... which is all you
really need for a brochure for
a contemporary architecture
firm. LSD SPAIN
of
n-
nd
ural
ee-
you
or
re
15 design elements
08
BEWARE OF
SYMMETRY.
ame
sing People make a weird assumption about and transparency. Create differences in
the
two-dimensional visual stuff, and that density and openness by clustering some
se
h the is: it’s flat! Go figure. Layouts that fail to elements and pushing others apart. Apply
le impart a sense of depth or movement— color to forms such that some appear to
help those in which everything is the same size, advance and others recede. Convince the
m weight, color, and perceived distance from viewer that the surface is a window into a
st everything else—are dull and lifeless. bigger, engaging world.
YER
“Without contrast,” Paul Rand once said,
“you’re dead.” Fool the viewer into seeing
deep space by exploiting changes in size
17 design elements
Don’t just grab some colors from out of the disparate items—sometimes called “color
air. Know what the colors will do when you coding”—so choose wisely. Never assume
combine them and, more important, what that a certain color, or a combination of
they might mean to the audience. Color colors, is right for a particular job because
carries an abundance of psychological and of convention, either. Blue for financial
emotional meaning, and this meaning can services, for example, is the standout color
vary tremendously between cultural groups cliché of the past fifty years. Choose the LE
and even individuals. Color affects visual right colors, not those that are expected.
hierarchy, the legibility of type, and how
people make connections between
Colo
man
valu
The muted rose tones in this gett
fragrance packaging are femi- sim
nine without being girlish; a
A lo
slight shift toward brown in the
typography creates a subtle, yet for i
rich, interaction. The comple- colo
mentary green-gold—almost a mak
direct complement, but again,
slightly off—presents rich con-
trast and hints at complexity
and allure. A10 DESIGN BRAZIL
1MA
AN
Ton
sure
Furt
rang
firec
area
exp
of d
tran
dist
se
lor
.
11
LESS COLOR IS MORE.
12
Soft, rippling transitions
from deep black to luminous
blue provide a sensuous back-
drop for the bright, sparkling
typography in this poster.
By changing the sizes of
type clusters, as well as the
spaces between them, the
designer also is able to intro-
duce transitions in value
that correspond to similar
MASTER THE DARK transitions in the image.
AND THE LIGHT.
PAONE DESIGN ASSOCIATES
UNITED STATES
19 design elements
14
USE TWO TYPEFACE
FAMILIES, MAXIMUM.
1AV
RE
16
Rather than represent the sub-
ject of this exhibition poster—
photography of birds—by
showing the exhibition’s work
or by depicting the subject liter-
ally, the designer instead chose
a more conceptual approach.
Given that the subject was
explicit in both the exhibition’s
title and subtitle, the designer
was free to develop a visual idea
AVOID REDUNDANT that leapt beyond the expected
and introduced a deeper, more
REDUNDANCIES. conceptual message. The type
forms, cut from paper and
scanned, create not only a pho-
Be conscious of how much information is tographic dimensionality, but
conveyed by a project’s text. When you a visual association with legs,
introduce imagery, you need not show the wings, feathers, tree branches,
and wires—the environment
same information. Instead, consider what
that birds and people share.
the text isn’t telling the viewer and show LESLEY MOORE NETHERLANDS
that (and, conversely, text should tell what
the images don’t show). The image and text,
working in concert, should not only com-
plete each other but contribute to a new,
deeper understanding. In closing the gaps
and making such leaps, the viewer becomes
more intensely engaged.
21 design elements
Make what you need, and make it the what already exists, even though it might
best you can—or pay someone to do it for be cheaper or easier. Inventing images from
you and art-direct them. And remember: scratch—in whatever medium—will help
Not every idea benefits from a full-color better differentiate your client’s message
photographic depiction. Very often, a more and connect powerfully with the audience.
original, and meaningful solution is no fur- Plus, you can say, quite proudly, that you
ther away than a couple of dots and lines, did it all yourself. LO
a simple, funky icon, or (gasp!) an abstract BU
pattern or a scribble. Your options are limit-
less; consider them all. Try not to rely on
It’s
and
own
No photography or illustration real
available? Can’t draw? No sim
sweat. A designer with a strong
be i
understanding of how abstract
form communicates—and part
what simple means (here, hov
drawing software and a blur not
filter)—can transform uncom- but
plicated visual elements into
strikingly original and concep-
tually appropriate images.
CLEMENS THÉOBERT SCHEDLER
AUSTRIA
ER
19
In the covers of these literary
classics—part of a series—
carefully crafted illustrative
icons are arranged in symmetri-
cal, wallpaperlike patterns
and adorned with simple,
small-scale serif type—graphic
gestures that aren’t in vogue
(at the time of this edition).
And yet, this visual language
ge
seems somehow modern while
bad
sa IGNORE FASHION. being appropriate to the subject
matters and contexts of the
ver SERIOUSLY. books. By focusing on authentic
t’s
messages and delivering them
fe
with sound, well-formed type
ttle
People in the present respond to what style and images, the designer
looks cool and “now.” Many designers get ensures an exquisitely timeless
significant attention for trendy work. Forget quality that transcends the
fads of the moment.
that. If you design around meaning, not
CORALIE BICKFORD-SMITH
current stylistic conceits, your projects UNITED KINGDOM
will resonate more deeply, not get dated,
and have impact far longer. Nobody looks
at the Pantheon, designed almost 2,000
years ago, and says, “Ewww, that’s like,
so first century.”
23 design elements
Language: English
Credits: Laura & Joyce McDonald and Clare Graham and Marc
D'Hooghe
LONDON
COLONIAL EDITION.
1912
TO
I. Coming Home
II. About Town
III. In Beautiful England
IV. The Home of Childhood
V. Halcyon Days
VI. Earliest Recollections
VII. Old Times and New
VIII. Some Early Sundays
IX. My Grandfather's Days
X. Outdoor Life
XI. At the Seaside
XII. Excursions to Sandringham
XIII. A Trip South
XIV. "Devon, Glorious Devon!"
XV. In the Garden of England
CHAPTER I
COMING HOME
There was a gap of thirty-eight years, almost to a day, between my
departure from England (1870), a five-weeks-old young bride, and
my return thither (1908), an old woman. And for about seven-
eighths of that long time in Australia, while succeeding very well in
making the best of things, I was never without a subconscious sense
of exile, a chronic nostalgia, that could hardly bear the sight of a
homeward-bound ship. This often-tantalised but ever-unappeased
desire to be back in my native land wore the air of a secret sorrow
gently shadowing an otherwise happy life, while in point of fact it
was a considerable source of happiness in itself, as I now perceive.
For where would be the interest and inspiration of life without
something to want that you cannot get, but that it is open to you to
try for? I tried hard to bridge the distance to my goal for over thirty
years, working, planning, failing, starting again, building a thousand
air-castles, more or less, and seeing them burst like soap-bubbles as
soon as they began to materialise; then I gave up. The children had
grown too old to be taken; moreover, they had attained to wills of
their own and did not wish to go. One had fallen to the scythe of the
indiscriminate Reaper, and that immense loss dwindled all other
losses to nothing at all. I cared no more where I lived, so long as the
rest were with me. In England my father and mother, who had so
longed for me, as I for them, were in their graves; no old home was
left to go back to. I was myself a grandmother, in spite of kindly and
even vehement assurances that I did not look it; more than that, I
could have been a great-grandmother without violating the laws of
nature. At any rate, I felt that I was past the age for enterprises. It
was too late now, I concluded, and so what was the use of fussing
any more? In short, I sat down to content myself with the inevitable.
I was doing it. I had been doing it for several years. The time had
come when I could look out of window any Tuesday morning, watch
a homeward-bound mail-boat put her nose to sea, and turn from the
spectacle without a pang. The business of building air-castles
flourished, as of yore, but their bases now rested on Australian soil.
What was left of the future was all planned out, satisfactorily, even
delightfully, and England was not in it.
Then was the time for the unexpected to happen, and it did. A
totally undreamed-of family legacy, with legal business attached to
it, called my husband home. Even then it did not strike me that I
was called too; for quite a considerable time it did not strike him
either. But there befell a period of burning summer heat, the
intensity and duration of which broke all past records of our State
and established it as a historic event for future Government
meteorologists; the weaklings of the community succumbed to it
outright or emerged from it physically prostrate, and I, who had
encountered it in a "run-down" condition, was of the latter company.
The question: "Was I fit to be left?" obtruded itself into the settled
policy: it logically resolved itself into the further question: "Was I fit
to go?" There was nothing whatever to prevent my going if I could
"stand" it, and a long sea-voyage had been doctors' prescription for
me for years. Mysteriously and, as it were, automatically, I brisked
up from the moment the second question was propounded, and
before I knew it found myself enrolled as a member of the
expedition. The two-berth cabin was engaged; travelling trunks, and
clothes to put in them, bestrewed my bedroom floor. I was going
home—at last!
And was it too late? Had I outlived my long, long hope? Not a bit of
it. I had outlived nothing, and it was exactly and ideally the right
time. "You will be disappointed," said more than one of my travelled
old friends, who had known the extravagance of my anticipations. "It
will be sad for you, finding all so strange and changed." "You will
feel dreadfully out of it, after so many years." "You will be very
lonely"—thus was I compassionately warned not to let a too
sanguine spirit run away with me. They were all wrong. I never had
a disappointment: nothing was sad for me, of all the change; no one
could have been less out of it, or less lonely. Every English day of
the whole six months was full of pleasure; I was not even bored for
an hour. At no time of my life could I have made the trip with a
lighter heart (being assured weekly that all was well behind me).
Children would have meant a burden, however precious a burden,
and had I gone in my parents' lifetime it would have been with them
and me as our ship's captain said it was with his wife during his brief
sojourns with her; for half the time she was overwrought with the
joy of his return, and for the other half miserable in anticipation of
his departure, so that he never knew her in her normal state. That
my father and mother had long been dead, and that the tragedies of
home love and loss, with which I was so familiar, were not pressing
close about me, probably accounted more than anything else for my
being so well and happy. Also, it is not until a woman is sixty, or
thereabouts, that she is really free to enjoy herself.
Well! I never was so well since I was born. The long sea-voyage did
all that was asked of it, and incidentally brought home to me the
truth of the old adage that silver lines all clouds. "If only we were
not so far away!" had been my inward wail for eight and thirty years.
"If only we had emigrated to Canada, or South Africa, or almost any
part of the British Empire but this! Then we might have flown home
every few years as easily as we now go from Melbourne to Sydney,
and at no more expense." I have the same regret, intensified, now
that I am back in Australia again. But there is no gain without its
corresponding loss. Not only might the joys of England after exile
have become staled by this time, but a voyage of a week or two
would not have prepared me to make the most of them. I am
convinced that years of health and life are given to those who, at the
right juncture, can afford six weeks of sea-travel at a stretch, and
they may have been given to me and my companion; I quite believe
so. Each of us was a stone heavier at the end of our holiday than at
the beginning, and in the interval we forgot that we were a day over
twenty-five.
Consider for a moment the perfect adjustment of the conditions to
the needs of the invalid with no disease but exhaustion. I pass over
the special favours vouchsafed to me, in idyllic weather and tranquil
seas, and the mothering of a devoted stewardess who is my friend
for life; also in finding quiet and pleasant company in a saloon party
of but eighteen. That sort of luck cannot be purchased even with a
first-class steamer ticket, nor is it necessary to the efficacy of the
treatment. Take only the itinerary—that of the Suez route at a
suitable season—as it may be observed by anybody.
First, the run across the Indian Ocean—in the case of the mail-
steamers from Adelaide to Colombo, in our case from Adelaide to
Aden. Three whole weeks, without a break, without an incident, if all
goes well. I had never imagined the sea could be so blank as it
presented itself to us on this first section of our voyage. Ships may
have passed in the night, but I saw none by day; no land, no birds,
no whales, no phosphorescent wakes, no anything, except sea and
sky and lovely sunsets. It may have been monotonous, but it was
monotony in the right place. It brought to me, at the outset, that
complete rest from all effort and excitement which was the
necessary preliminary to recovery and repair. I reposed on my
comfortable lounge from morn till eve, playing with a trifle of
needlework (too stupid with blissful torpor to read, while the
strangeness of quite idle hands would have induced the fidgets, sea-
drugged as I was). I ate, and slept, and basked, like a soulless
animal; forgot there were such things as posts and newspapers, as
dinner-planning and stocking-mending, as calls and committee-
meetings; forgot that I was the mother of a family, and had
abandoned it for the first time in history; forgot whether I was ill or
well, or had nerves or not; and thus soaked and steeped and
soddened in peace, insensibly renewed and established my strength,
not patching it anyhow just to carry on with, as one does on land,
with a casual week at a watering-place or in the mountains, but
unhurriedly, uninterruptedly, solidly, rebuilding it from the bottom up.
Then, when strength becomes aware that it is ready for use—at the
moment when one begins to feel that the monotony has lasted long
enough—then back comes the delightful world, with a new face of
beauty to match the new ardour of love for it that has been silently
generating within us. All the light of enterprising and romantic youth
was in the gaze I levelled through my binoculars (given to me for my
voyage in 1870) at the first substantial token that I was in the
gorgeous East, one of the fairylands of imagination (comprising,
roughly, all the unknown earth) from the days of infancy when I
learned to read. It was an Arab dhow. I knew that pointed wing as
well as I knew the shape of chimney-pots, but the wonder that I was
seeing it with my bodily eyes, even as a speck upon the horizon, was
overwhelming. I stared and stared, but could not speak.
The rest was pure enchantment. As we drew near to the magnificent
rock of Aden—hateful place, I know, to its white inhabitants, and an
old tale not worth mentioning to the average Australian tourist—I
said, in my ecstasy: "This pays for the voyage, if we see nothing
more." The first white-awninged launch that bustled up to us,
manned by two nondescripts, one huge Nubian negro and one
beautiful Somali boy, bore through the brilliant air and water an
official gentleman who probably would have sold his soul for a
London fog; it was not he, but another official gentleman who
swallowed nearly a bottle of ship's brandy while attending to ship's
business, and was presented with another bottle on his departure by
a sympathiser who understood his case. It was a hot morning in the
middle of May, and I had been accustomed from my youth to
atmospheric light and colour as glorious as the radiant setting of this
strange outpost of Empire in the East. Evidently it is in the eye
(backed by a strong imagination) of the gazer that poetic beauty
lies.
After this, the unspeakable experiences followed thick and fast.
Night in the Straits, with Venus so bright that she cast a reflection
like moonlight across the water; the Red Sea in the morning—
minarets on the horizon, and those rocks of desolation, with the
loneliest human dwelling conceivable (the arcaded lighthouse) on
the top of one of the most impressively desolate; that other
lighthouse at the gulf entrance, with its flashing rays of red and
white, its rock-base velvety purple against a solemn sunset sky;
Mount Sinai amongst the hills of Holy Land; the majestic desert of so
many dreams. Time was when I sniffed at the colour of Holman
Hunt's "Scapegoat" landscape, but here it was, translated into living
light, but no fainter in tint than the dead paint had made it.
Sapphires were not in it with that blue-green sea at Suez, in which
the jostling bumboats floated as in clearest glass. The rocky shores
to left were mauve, the right-hand desert and Holman-Hunty
hummocks salmon-pink, and no mortal painter was ever born, or
ever will be, to "get" the bloomy glow and fairy delicacy of Nature's
textures and technique. The Eastern sun blazed broadly over the
scene, the temperature at noon was ninety-nine degrees in the
shade; the composition was perfect.
Between tea-time and dinner we passed out of the city and close to
its domestic doorsteps—the closest I had yet come to Eastern life;
and long after we were in the canal it was a picture to look back
upon from which I could not tear my eyes. Low on the gleaming
water—the two towns linked by the dark thread of the railway
embankment, brooded over by that majestic mauve and violet hill—it
was a vision of beauty indeed as the light effects changed from
moment to moment with the sinking of the gorgeous sun. I could
afford no time to dress that night. In my hat, as I was, I snatched a
mouthful of dinner, and was up again on deck, to make the most of
the short twilight; and so I saw the shadowy last of Suez and more
than I expected to see of the canal.
"Just a little ditch in the sand," somebody had told me, as one might
say, a primrose by the river's brim was nothing more. Apart from its
otherwise tremendous significance, that narrow watercourse was a
highway of romance to me. Egypt—Arabia—the very names set one's
heart thumping. It would be thrilling to be there even if one were
blind. The silence of the desert is more eloquent than any sound.
But from the most unsentimental point of view it was a ditch of
varied aspects, that only the dullest traveller could call uninteresting.
The Canal Company, it appeared, was widening it to double its
original measure across, top and bottom—something like a ten
years' job, with millions of money and priceless brain-matter in it—
and we saw the engineers at work. That is to say, they were not at
work at the moment, because the day's task was done; but there
were their excavations and machinery, fine and effective, and I can
never look at such, apprehending their meaning, without a lifting of
the heart, a sense of the beauty that is in the world unrecognised by
that name. What, I wondered, did my schoolgirl idol and apostle of
beauty, Ruskin, think of this ditch when it was a-making? Did he
say? If, to my knowledge, he had called it a desecration of Nature, I
should instantly have agreed with him. Now, to my life-educated
eyes and soul, the very Holy Land was sanctified by the faithful
endeavour and achievement evidenced in haulage-trucks and pipe-
lines and those twin steel rails that he hated so much, telling all their
serious story to whoever could understand it.
It was indeed a beautiful as well as an instructive picture, that left
bank, as we moved beside it. The native labourers, after their work,
squatted in their little camps and dug-outs, and in the sand, or stood
statue-like to watch our passing, sharply silhouetted figures and
groups against the translucent sky, each a "study" that, if in a
gallery, one would go miles to see. Strings of camels were being led
to water or were wending homeward with their loads. Little
encampments straight out of the Bible, desert palm-trees, desert
distances, all in the golden afterglow, the clear-shining twilight, the
evening peace that was too peaceful for words, were gems for the
collector of poetic impressions, to be for ever cherished and
preserved. And then how striking was the rare glimpse of a Saxon
face, the glance at us of grave eyes that one knew had the all-
governing brain behind them. The British Occupation in Egypt—there
it was, in the person of that lonely man in tent or boat-house,
advance agent of the Civilisation that spells Prosperity in whatever
part of the world it goes. One of these, out riding with a lady, rode
down to the water's edge to watch us pass. In their white garb they
were perfectly groomed, like their beautiful Arab horses, which they
sat in a style that was good to see; but they were pathetic figures,
with that lonely waste around them. I divined a deadly
homesickness in the eyes that followed our progress as long as we
could be seen, the same ache of the heart that afflicted me, for so
many years, whenever I saw a ship going to England without me.
Yet one could be quite sure that they never dreamed of slipping
cables on their own account as long as duty to the Empire held them
where they were. Not the man, at any rate.
And so it grew too dark to see anything beyond the edge of our
searchlight, which showed only post-heads in the water, and I went
to bed.
I was asleep when we passed Ismailia, contrary to my intentions,
but I got up at four o'clock, to lose no more. Still unbroken desert to
the right; to the left a well-made embankment with a roadway atop,
and behind that a belt of bamboos and greenery, telegraph lines and
a railway, broken at intervals by the oases of the gares. An American
navy-boat made way for us at one of these, a pair of submarines
conspicuous on her deck. At a little before five the sun of a lovely
morning rose on our starboard side, and one saw the desert wet and
dark, yielding its immemorial savagery to the civilising hand and
brain. One of the fine up-to-date dredges, amongst the many
dredges, was pumping the mud up on the land as it sucked it from
the canal bottom. In the shining sun-flushed pools of its creation
black forms of storks moved statelily, apparently finding nourishment
already where there had been none before. On the left bank there
was the embodied spirit of progress again, doubtless looking at his
work and on the way to expedite it; white-clothed, white-helmeted,
enthroned on a railway trolly, which a bare-legged native ran along
the line as it were a perambulator on ball bearings, two more natives
sitting upon it, ready to take turns with him at the job. Lifting the
eye slightly, one saw open water along the sky behind them, a
flashing, glittering strip, studded with forty-two lateen sails that
might have been carved of mother o' pearl; and almost immediately,
straight ahead, a low mass of something as yet misty and formless
in the dazzling rose and gold of the morning, reminiscent of Suez in
its sunset transfiguration—Port Said, less than an hour from us.
It was Sunday, and divine service in the reading-room had been
arranged. Soon after six, at about the time of passing the Gare de
Naz-el-ech, passengers began to come up, a few with prayer-book in
hand. But divine service was "off," by order of the captain—a
religious man, very regular in his attendance at public worship. He
knew how it would be at seven-thirty, when we were going to drop
anchor in the port at seven, and that was exactly how it was—every
inch of ship overrun with ardent pedlars, while coaling from the
great lighters, three or four lashed abreast, was in full swing. I may
as well say at once that for me, as for nearly all the passengers (my
own companion, who declared himself quite happy in his choice,
being the only member of the saloon party to stay at home), that
Sunday, as a Sunday, has to be wiped off the slate entirely, posted
as missing amongst the Sabbath days of life. I must confess further
that it was the most delightful (so called) Sunday I ever spent. At
last I did more than see the Gorgeous East of lifelong dreams; I felt
it, I had speech with it. In a select party, headed by the dear woman
who, apart from her solid social position, was the chief pillar of the
church on board, I was permitted to go ashore. I had the free use of
six hours to do what I liked in.
In the half-hour before breakfast I did exciting business with the
bumboatmen. I bought a piece of tapestry, representing camels,
palm-trees, mosques and the like, which the native vendor assured
me was handmade in Egyptian prisons, though in my heart of hearts
I knew better; also brooches and bracelets which seemed dirt cheap
at two and three shillings apiece, the exact counterparts of which I
afterwards bought at William Whiteley's for sixpence ha'penny. As
soon after breakfast as we could get our letters ready, I was rowed
through the jewel-bright water into the world of fairy tales. Oh, I
know what Port Said is to those familiar with it, and I could have
seen for myself, had I wished to see, that the Gorgeous East could
be flimsy and tawdry, even ugly, here and there; but it was the East,
and that was enough; the glamour of the rosy spectacles beautified
all. Nothing was easier than to forget and ignore what would
doubtless be impossible to overlook on a second visit, and
impossible to put up with on a third or fourth.
Having arrived at the centre of things, we appointed an hour for
luncheon at the Hotel Continental, and split our party into twos and
threes. An unattached man took charge of me and another
unattached lady, and escorted us about the town and to the shops
which alone attracted her (for she knew Port Said already).
Wonderful shops, too, some of them were, and it was no wasted
time I spent roaming about them, while she gave her attention to
spangled scarves and lace; but the lattice-veiled windows of the
mysterious dwelling-rooms above them, and the flowing and glowing
life of the narrow streets, were what I had come to see. It was
delightful to return to the pavement under the Continental, and
there sit, with a cold and bubbling lemon drink, in one of the low
chairs which so hospitably invite the wayfarer, to watch the stream
of mingling East and West go by, and its eddies around one—the
veiled native lady touching skirts with the breezy English girl; the
turbaned sherbet seller, his remarkable brazen ewer under his arm,
dodging the swift bicycle; the oily-eyed and sodden rapscallion of
the Levant, or the bejewelled and bepowdered person no better
than she should be, elbowing the spare young cleric slipping through
these dangerous places on his way to the Pan-Anglican Congress.
And the stranger contrasts on the wide, tiled side-walk, a continuous
outdoor café rather than a promenade—Frenchmen playing
dominoes, swarthy traders doing secret business over their drinks;
passengers from the various ships in port, mothers and aunts with
children by the hand; here and there the habitual tourist, easily
identified; here and there the impeccably clothed, clean-limbed
white figure, whose high bearing and bluff dignity proclaimed the
important person—soldier of distinction, big-game-hunting lord of
leisure, powerful Government official, as the case might be. All up
and down, around the low tables, faces of all nations, speech of all
languages, and, as an undercurrent, the incessantly made gentle
appeal for notice from the dark-skinned pedlars sinuously navigating
the narrow channels between the chairs, with their cheap jewellery
and picture post-cards and puzzle walking-sticks, trying how far they
could go under the eye of the Egyptian policeman, standing ready to
order them over the curb at the first sign of unwelcome pertinacity.
For a good half-hour we sat at ease, in the middle of this picture,
and I enjoyed myself surpassingly. Then a little more shopping on
behalf of my still unsatisfied lady companion, and then the gathering
of the whole seven of our landing party at the appointed rendezvous
for luncheon. We were ready for the meal, and it was not the least
memorable of the æsthetic pleasures of that "Sunday out." I am told
it was simply as a meal ashore, after many meals at sea, that I
found it so delectable, but in justice to the courteous French
proprietor, as he seemed to be, who himself took charge of our
table, and for my own credit as a connoisseur, I deny that assertion,
made only by those who were not there. I declare, on my honour,
that, apart from the good cookery, the bread, butter and beer of the
Hotel Continental at Port Said—such a seemingly unlikely place in
which to find them so—were the best I ever tasted. Particularly the
bread. One of the remaining ambitions of my life is to find out
whether that bread was French, or Egyptian, or Turkish, or what (the
reader bears in mind that this is the story of an innocent abroad),
and to get some more of it, if possible.
We sat outside the house again, to repose after our repast, and I
should think there was no more contented person in the world than
I was then. I bought a little more Brummagem rubbish that palmed
itself off as of Oriental manufacture, of the softly persistent pedlars
circulating about my chair; and our escort settled the hotel bill,
which worked out at four-and-sixpence for each of us. Never did I
grudge hard-earned money for sensual indulgence less. I would not
now take pounds for my recollections of that meal, because the day
could not have been perfect without it.
So it drew on for four o'clock, when leave expired. Tired, hot and
happy, we wandered back to the quay, dropped our threepenny
pieces into official hands before the tantalised boatmen, stepped into
our cushioned barge and were rowed to the ship. There we found
coaling done, afternoon tea prepared for us, everything ready for
the start. And, again in the decline of the brilliant day, we saw the
whole place bathed in celestially rosy light, a last impression of the
gorgeous East as one loves to imagine it, to be hung on the line of
the picture gallery of memory alongside Aden and Suez. Because
decks were being washed down, the captain allowed a few of us to
survey the scene from his bridge, and while we rested weary bones
we gazed from that commanding altitude upon the unforgettable
panorama—the houses of the sea-front, the casino, the famous
lighthouse, the bathing-beach with its white surf and its machines,
the long breakwater walling the exit from the canal, and—farewelling
us, as it seemed—the impressive statue of Ferdinand de Lesseps,
pointing back to his great work. At sunset we fetched up the coats
so long unworn, and in the fresh air of the Mediterranean watched
the flushing and fading of the distant city, low on the water like
another Venice, until the evening bugle called us down. Too tired to
dress, we ate our dinner perfunctorily, took a last look at the
spacious, cool-breathing night, saw the Damietta light twinkling, and
went to bed early. No one so much as mentioned church.
Then came three quiet days, sunny and cool, in which the right thing
to do was to lie on one's long chair and recover from excitements.
Meditation was so sweet, and I was so grateful to Port Said, that I
could not grumble at losing Malta, where the ship had no
engagements. A far-off, faint reflection of what was supposed to be
a flashlight in Valetta harbour consoled me on my way to bed one
night with its suggestion that Templars really lived, and that the old
cathedral and the old steep streets were still there, awaiting the
future pilgrim. No more did I set foot in "foreign parts," but what I
further saw of them sufficed to make each remaining day of the
voyage memorable. "The Bay of Tunis," says the captain, and: "Old
Carthage lies behind that hill."
We were so close to the African shore that we could see the
occasional town, the lonely farm, the lonelier fort or monastery, very
distinctly; and the little unfenced, unshaped patches of tillage
scratched out of the wilderness, and the little roadways meandering
through the gaps of the crowding rock-ranges, otherwise so savagely
desolate; and the evening lights sparsely scattered along the shore,
and the early morning camp-fires on the seaward declivities, so high
up and isolated as to suggest the fastnesses of the pirates of bygone
days. A horn of the Bay of Algiers stole out of twilight mist, and lit
up its clustering lamps as we looked at it; and the following day
revealed the face of Spain, frowning at her vis-à-vis, but splendid in
a stormy sunset, a velvety violet mass against a flaming sky.
At four o'clock again on Sunday morning I was up and dressed,
summoned by the captain stamping overhead. And out of the dawn
came majestic Gibraltar—the sun was up before five—and Algeciras
of recent fame, ships and warships, hills, houses, hamlets, windmills,
roads and Tarifa Point transfixing a wrecked steamer, sad detail of a
picture full of life and charm. Another red-letter Sunday, but not
quite so red as the last. Divine service was duly celebrated in the
saloon after dinner—our last on board.
The captain stamped again at five A.M. on Monday, and I saw the
Castle of Cintra on its rocky headland, and more of the interesting
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