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 First Lessons in
Beekeeping

Camille P. Dadant

Dover Publications, Inc.

Mineola, New York
 Bibliographical Note

This Dover edition, first published in 2018, is an unabridged republication of

the work originally published by the American Bee Journal, Hamilton, Illinois, in
1918.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Names: Dadant, C. P. (Camille Pierre), 1851–1938, author.

Title: First lessons in beekeeping / Camille P. Dadant.
Other titles: Beekeeping | American bee journal.
Description: Dover edition. | Mineola, New York: Dover Publications, Inc.,
2018. | Originally published: Hamilton, Illinois: American Bee Journal,
1918. | Includes index.
Identifiers: LCCN 2017033255 | ISBN 9780486819617 ] ISBN 0486819612
Subjects: LCSH: Bees. | Bee culture. | Honey.
Classification: LCC SF523 .D22 2018 | DDC 638/.1—dc23 LC record available at
https://lccn.loc.gove/2017033255

Manufactured in the United States by LSC Communications

81961201 2018
www.doverpublications.com
 Introduction
BY DR. C. C. MILLER
Among those who were instrumental in introducing advanced
methods in bee-culture among the beekeeepers of Europe in the last
century, especially in overcoming opposition to the movable-frame
hive, Charles Dadant stands forth conspicuous. In France “Dadant”
and “Dadant hive” are household words among beekeepers. His
great influence was used by means of his facile pen, for most of his
life was spent in this country, where he was less known because he
was not so familiar with the English language as with his native
tongue, the French.
Yet his greatest legacy was not to France but to America. That
legacy was his only son, Camille P. Dadant. Intimately associated
with his father from his birth until the close of the long life of the
father, the younger Dadant had a schooling as a beekeeper that can
fall to the lot of few.
Mr. Dadant collaborated with his father in revising the great work
of Langstroth. He has written much and well not only for the bee
journals of this country, but of France as well. His very practical
writings as editor of the American Bee Journal are well known.
All this, together with his long and successful career as a
beekeeper gives warrant that the present work shall be a safe and
sane guide to those entering upon the fascinating pursuit of
beekeeping.
Marengo, Illinois, March 3, 1916.
C. C. MILLER
 Preface
This short treatise for beginners is an entirely rewritten edition of
the now exhausted book published in 1911 by George W. York and
Co.
Less extensive than our revision of the “Hive and Honey Bee,” it
yet contains the most practical of modern methods available in our
day. But as simplicity is important, we have kept it in mind and
difficult methods will not be found here. However a still more
elementary work is given in our “Bee Primer,” which, at the low price
of fifteen cents, has found a great welcome among prospective
beekeepers.
This book is especially intended for colleges and schools giving
short courses in bee culture. A few years ago such courses were not
thought of. But they are annually becoming more numerous. Blind
beekeeping is still less profitable than blind farming. The hive has
long been a sealed book. It should be opened to the prospective
apiarist before he attempts to keep bees. The bee owner who
depends upon luck is an obstruction to the success of others, for
disease and degenerescence of his bees are sure to follow from his
lack of knowledge and method.
The different subjects treated in this work are marked, for
reference, at the head of the paragraphs, with serial numbers. When
reference is made to another part of the book, the serial number is
inserted in parentheses, so that the student will easily find all
references to the subject which he studies. Likewise, the index refers
to the paragraphs and not to the pages of the book.
The different species of living animals number over a quarter of a
million. Among this vast concourse of life, for instructive lessons
none can rival the marvelous transformations that insect life
undergoes in its development! The repulsive maggot of today may
tomorrow be the active little fly, visiting leaf and flower. The
repugnant caterpillar may tomorrow be decked with green and gold,
through its speedy transformation to the butterfly, of brilliant tints
and gorgeous beauty.
This is not more wonderful than are the transformations from the
egg to the tiny larva, from the larva to the pupa, and from the pupa
to the fully developed honeybee, with its wondrous instincts and
marvelous habits. There is a fascination about the apiary that is
indescribable. Every scientific beekeeper is an enthusiast. The
economy of the beehive presents to the thoughtful student both
admiration and delight.
A single bee, with all its energy, collects but a tiny drop of honey
at each trip to the field, in the best season, yet the colony to which
it belongs may harvest hundreds of pounds of surplus for its owner,
in a single year.
In fructifying the flowers, too, bees present us with a field of
study. Many plants absolutely require the visits of bees or other
insects to disturb their pollen, and thus fertilize them. Hence, Darwin
wisely remarks, when speaking of clover and heartsease: “No bees,
no seed, no increase of the flower; the more visits from the bees,
the more seeds from the flower; the more seeds from the flowers,
the more flowers from the seeds.” Darwin mentions the following
experiment: “Twenty heads of white clover, visited by bees,
produced an average of twenty-seven seeds per head; while twenty
heads, so protected that bees could not visit them, produced not
one seed.”
Since the Darwin experiment, hundreds of scientists have made
tests of this same subject. Bulletin No. 289 of the United States
Department of Agriculture, published September 21, 1915, details at
length the experiments made at the Indiana Experiment Station by
Messrs. Wiancko and Robbins and at the Iowa Experiment Station of
Ames, by Messrs. Hughes, Pammel and Martin. They confirm
Darwin’s statements and show that clover can produce only “an
occasional seed from self pollination, that the pollen must come from
a separate plant in order to effect fertilization.” They also show that
the honeybee is as efficient a pollinator of red clover as the
bumblebee, whenever it is able, by the shortness of the corolla, to
work upon it.
 Ancient sages, among whom were Homer, Herodotus, Cato,
Aristotle, Varro, Virgil, Pliny and Columella, composed poems
extolling the activity, skill and economy of bees, and in modern times
among such authors have been Swammerdam, a Dutch naturalist;
Maraldi, an Italian mathematician and astronomer; Schirach, a Saxon
agriculturist; Reaumur, inventor of a thermometor; Butler, who first
asserted the existence of a queen bee; Wildman; Della Rocca;
Duchet; Bonnet, a Swiss entomologist; Dr. John Hunter; and Francis
Huber, who, though totally blind, was noted for his many minute
observations, by aid of his assistant, Burnens, which caused quite a
revolution in ancient theories concerning honeybees. Nearer to our
day, we may mention as the leaders of modern practical apiculture:
Dzierzon, Von Siebold, John Lubbock, L. L. Langstroth, Samuel
Wagner, M. Quinby, Adam Grimm, J. S. Harbison, Capt. J. E.
Hetherington, Prof. A. J. Cook, G. M. Doolittle, Dr. C. C. Miller, A. I.
Root and his sons, Chas. Dadant, E. W. Alexander, Thos. Wm.
Cowan, Frank R. Cheshire, Edward Bertrand, and a host of others.
It is out of the question to make mention of the students and
teachers of 20th Century beekeeping. They are so numerous that a
complete list would be irksome.
Hamilton, Illinois, January 15, 1917
C. P. DADANT
 Contents
The numbers refer to the paragraph and not to the page.

NATURAL HISTORY OF THE HONEYBEE

1. The races of bees.
2. A colony of bees.
3. The queen.
4. She leaves the hive to mate.
5. Egg-laying.
6. Rearing queen cells.
7. Royal jelly.
8. Ovaries of the queen.
9. Parthenogenesis.
10. Breeding season.
11. The drones.
12. Their appearance and numbers.
13. Loses his life in mating.
14. When destroyed.
15. Eyes of the drone.
16. Do drones serve another purpose?
17. The workers.
18. The head and eyes.
19. Mandibles.
20. Tongue.
21. Salivary glands.
22. Antennæ.
23. Honey sac.
24. Wings.
25. Legs and claws.
26. Anterior legs.
27. Pollen baskets.
28. Worker ovaries.
29. The sting.
30. Length of life.
31. Brood.
32. The egg.
33. Food of larvæ.
34. Appearance of brood.
35. Time required.
36. First flight of workers.
37. Duration of development.
38. Wax and comb.
39. Production of wax.
40. Speed of production.
41. Shape and dimensions of cells.
42. Location of queen cells.
43. Of same color as the comb.
44. Thickness of comb.
45. Cells not horizontal.
46. Cost of comb.
47. Color of combs.
48. Propolis.
49. Honey.
50. Contains water.
51. Its quantity, quality and color.
52. Honeydew.
53. Honey evaporation.
 54. Capping.
55. Pollen.
56. Substitutes.
57. Stored in brood combs.
58. Bees help fertilization of fruit.
59. Water.

ESTABLISHING AN APIARY
60. Wonderful habits of bees.
61. Who should keep bees?
62. Suitable location.
63. Shelter the apiary.
64. Plant fruit trees in apiary.
65. Keep weeds down.
66. Facing south.
67. How many to begin with.
68. Moving bees.
69. Moving short distances.
70. What kind of bees to get.
71. Examining box-hives.
72. Buying swarms.
73. Shade for hives.
74. Handling bees.
75. Smoke and smokers.
76. Veils and gloves.
77. When stung.
78. Remedies for bee stings.
79. Bee poison for rheumatism.
80. How to be safe.
81. A hive tool.
 82. Removing propolis from the hands.
83. Removing bees from the combs or frames.
84. Robber bees.
85. Remedies for robbing.
86. Avoiding robbing.
87. Indications of robbing.

HIVES
88. What hive to use.
89. The Langstroth hive.
90. Hive details.
91. Different styles.
92. Frames.
93. Capacity of hives. Use but one size.
94. Transferring bees.
95. Short method.

SWARMING AND QUEEN-REARING

96. Natural swarms.
97. Preventing afterswarms.
98. The queen’s actions.
99. How to hive a swarm.
100. Afterswarms.
101. Prevention of natural swarming.
102. Queen traps.
103. Prevention by manipulations.
104. Artificial increase.
105. Queen-rearing.
106. Breed from best queens.
107. Nuclei.
 108. Inserting queen cells.
109. How to prevent bees from leaving.
110. When queen is fertile.
111. Dividing the colonies.
112. Enlarging nuclei.
113. Exchanging with populous colony.
114. Ordinary dividing.
115. Bees recognizing one another.
116. Watching queenless colonies.
117. Keeping a record.
118. Loss of the queen.
119. Bees discover it quickly.
120. Care of queenless colony.
121. Drone-laying workers.

IMPROVEMENT IN HONEYBEES
122. Selection.
123. The Italian bees.
124. Italianizing an apiary.
125. To introduce a queen.
126. Queen-cages.
127. The Miller cage.
128. Smoke versus cage methods.
129. Safest method of introduction.
130. Clipping the queen’s wing.
131. Purchasing queens.

COMB FOUNDATION AND ITS USES

132. Wonderful economy of honeycomb.
133. Cost of comb.
 134. Manufacture.
135. How foundation is made.
136. Different grades.
137. Thin sheets for sections.
138. Brood foundation.
139. Advantages of use of foundation.
140. Must be of pure beeswax.
141. Fastening comb foundation.
142. Preserve the wax.
143. Rendering beeswax.
144. Solar wax-extractor.

PRODUCTION OF CHOICE HONEY

145. Honey of North America unexcelled.
146. Honey in the comb.
147. Bulk comb honey.
148. One-pound sections.
149. Plain sections and separators.
150. Supers for sections.
151. Sections supplied with foundation.
152. The honey harvest.
153. Supers on a colony which swarmed.
154. Queen excluders.
155. Adding more supers.
156. Get all sections sealed.
157. Keep different crops separate.
158. Removing honey from the hive.
159. The bee-escape.
160. Invention of the extractor.
161. How the extractor is used.
 162. Extracting supers.
163. The honey must be ripe.
164. Removing with bee-escape.
165. When to extract.
166. Do not extract from brood-chamber.
167. Reversible extractors.
168. Uncapping-knife.
169. Steam-heated knife.
170. Power extractor and honey pump.
171. How to extract.
172. The honey cappings.

WINTERING AND FEEDING BEES

173. Wintering indoors and outdoors.
174. Cellar-wintering.
175. Placing hives in cellar.
176. Keep them quiet at right temperature.
177. Darkness not indispensable.
178. Good ventilation.
179. When to take them in and out.
180. Wintering in clamps.
181. Special cellars.
182. Outdoor wintering.
183. Pack them properly.
184. Passageway over frames.
185. Ample stores needed.
186. Feeding. Honey and fruit juice unhealthy.
187. Spring feeding.
188. Feed honey or best sugar syrup.
189. Foreign honey dangerous.
 190. Good honey best.
191. Feeders.
192. Syrup for winter food.
193. Syrup for spring use.
194. Sugar-candy.
195. Helping weak colonies.
196. Uniting worthless colonies.

BEE PASTURAGE
197. Bee pasturage.
198. The linden or basswood.
199. The tulip tree.
200. The willow.
201. Black locust.
202. Fruit trees.
203. Plants for field.
204. Roads and wasteland.
205. White clover.
206. Sweet clover.
207. Alsike clover.
208. Alfalfa.
209. Mustard.
210. Buckwheat.
211. Weeds as honey producers.

OBSERVATION HIVES
212. Studying the habits of bees.

ENEMIES OF BEES
213. Enemies are few.
 214. The beemoth.
215. Remedy and prevention.

DISEASES OF BEES AND TREATMENT

216. Foulbrood.
217. American foulbrood symptoms.
218. McEvoy treatment.
219. European foulbrood.
220. Symptoms
221. Treatment.
222. Pickled-brood.
223. May disease.
224. Diarrhea.

MARKETING HONEY
225. Comb honey is preferred.
226. Assort and grade the honey.
227. Management of comb honey.
228. Cases for comb honey.
229. Shipping comb honey.
230. Management of extracted honey.
231. Melting granulated honey.
232. Where to keep honey.
233. Ripening honey.
234. Tanks for honey.
235. Tin pails.
236. Glass jars and tumblers.
237. Square cans for shipping.

HONEY AS A FOOD
238. Honey can replace sugar.
239. Honey to sweeten drinks.
240. Is honey a luxury?
241. Honey vinegar.
 Natural History of the
Honeybee
The Races of Bees
1. Of the different races of the honeybee, the common or black
bee is the most numerous, though it is less desirable than the
Italian, which was known to the ancients several hundred years
before the Christian Era, and is mentioned by Aristotle and Virgil.
The Egyptian, Carniolan, Cyprian, Caucasian, and others, have also
been tried. But the Italian (123)* is the favorite in the United States,
because of its activity, docility, prolificness and beauty.

A Colony of Bees
2. In its usual working condition, a colony of bees contains a
fertile queen, many thousands of workers (more or less numerous
according to the season of the year), and in the busy season from
several hundred to a few thousand drones.

The Queen
3. The mother-bee, as she is often called, is the only perfect
female in the colony and is the true mother of it. Her only duty is to
lay the eggs for the propagation of the species. She is a little larger
than the worker but not so large as the drone. Her body is longer
than that of the worker, but her wings are proportionately shorter.
Her abdomen tapers to a point. She has a sting, but it is curved, and
she uses it only upon royalty; that is to say, to fight or destroy other
queens—her rivals.
 Fig. 1—The Queen Bee.

4. The queen usually leaves the hive only when accompanying a

swarm. However, she takes a flight when about five or six days old,
to mate with a drone, outside, upon the wing. Once fertilized, she is
so for life, though she often lives three or four years (30). On her
return to the hive, after mating, if she has been fecundated, the
male organs may be seen attached to her abdomen.

Fig. 2—Head of Queen (magnified).

5. If for some reason the queen is unable to mate within the

first three weeks of her life, she loses the desire to mate, but is
nevertheless able to lay eggs that will hatch, as will be shown
further (9). These produce only drones. In about two days after
mating, she commences to lay, and she is capable, if prolific, of
laying three thousand or more eggs per day. These are regularly
deposited by her in the cells, within the breeding apartment or body
of the hive. When a queen lays eggs in the super or honey
receptacle, which is usually provided over the hive-body, it is a sign
that the hive is full. Small hives are objectionable because their
limited space often causes the queen to desert the breeding
apartment and induce swarming.

Fig. 3—Queen Laying, Surrounded by Worker Bees.

6. Instinct teaches the workers the necessity of having a queen

that is prolific, and should she become barren from any cause, or be
lost or even decrease in her fertility (101-5) during the breeding
season, or die (118) from old age or from accident, they immediately
prepare to rear another to take her place. This they do by building
queen cells (Fig. 5.) (34) which they supply with eggs from worker-
cells.
 The bees also rear queens when preparing to swarm (96); the
first queen hatched destroys the others and the bees usually help
her to do it unless they wish to swarm (98) again.
7. By feeding the embryo queen with royal jelly, the egg that
would have produced a worker had it remained in a worker-cell,
becomes a queen.
The name “royal jelly” (33) is probably a misnomer, though used
by most authors. It seems evident that the royal jelly is the same
food which is given to the larva of the worker bee during the first
three days of its existence, but at the end of that time it is changed,
for the worker, to a coarser food or pap, while the same jelly in
plentiful supply is given to the queen-larva during the entire time of
its growth.

Fig. 4—Ovaries of Queen (magnified).

8. The ovaries of the queen, occupying a large portion of the

abdomen, are two pear-shaped bodies, composed of 160 to 180
minute tubes, the tubes being bound together by enveloping air-
vessels. A highly magnified view is here given (Fig. 4.) The germs of
the eggs originate in the upper ends of the tubes which compose the
ovary, and the eggs develop in their onward passage, so that at the
time of the busy laying season each one of the tubes will contain, at
its lower end, one or more mature eggs, with several others in a less
developed state following them. These tubes terminate on each side
in the oviduct, through which the egg passes into the vagina; in the
cut, an egg will be seen in the oviduct on the right.
A globular sac will be noted, attached to the main oviduct by a
short, tubular stem. A French naturalist, M. Aidouin, first discovered
the true character of this sac as the spermatheca, which contains
the male semen; and Prof. Leuckart computes its size as sufficient to
contain, probably, twenty-five millions of seminal filaments. It seems
hardly possible that so large a number should ever be found in the
spermatheca, as it would require nearly twenty years to exhaust the
supply, if the queen should lay daily 2000 eggs, 365 days in the year,
and each egg be impregnated. Each egg which receives one or more
of the seminal filaments in passing produces a worker or queen,
while an unimpregnated egg produces only a drone. The
spermatheca of an unfecundated queen contains only a transparent
liquid with no seminal filaments, and the eggs of such a queen
produce only drones, whether they are laid in large or small cells.
The size of the cell has therefore no influence on the sex.
 Fig. 5—Queen Cells.

9. This ability of a queen to lay eggs which hatch into drones,

without fertilization, belong only to a few female insects and is called
“parthenogenesis.” This was discovered in queen bees by Dzierzon.
Whether the queen has been for some cause unable to meet a
drone or to fly in search of one, or whether the drone’s organs were
sterile, or their supply exhausted, or whether yet she has been
rendered infertile by refrigeration, in any of these cases a queen
may lay eggs which hatch only as drones. Such a queen is, of
course, worthless, and should be superseded by the apiarist.
10. The queen usually lays from February to October, but very
early in the spring she lays sparingly. When fruit and flowers bloom,
and the bees are getting honey and pollen, she lays most rapidly.

The Drones
11. These are non-producers, and live on the toil and industry
of others. They are the males, and have no sting—neither have they
any means of gathering honey or secreting wax, or doing any work
that is even necessary to their own support, or the common good of
the colony.
 12. The drones are shorter, thicker and more bulky than the
queen, and their wings reach the entire length of their body. They
are much larger and clumsier than the workers, and like the queen
and workers are covered with short but fine hair. Their buzzing when
on the wing is much louder and differs from that of the others. Their
only use is to serve the queen when on her “bridal trip.”

Fig. 6—The Drone.

Not more than one in a thousand is ever privileged to perform

that duty, but as the queen’s life is very valuable, and the dangers
surrounding her flight are numerous, it is necessary to have a
sufficient number of them, in order that her absence from the hive
may not be protracted.
That is why hundreds and often thousands of drones are reared
in each colony during the breeding and swarming season. In
domestication, when dozens and sometimes hundreds of colonies
are kept in an apiary, the choice colonies alone should be permitted
to rear drones in large numbers for reproduction
13. It is said that some queens need to mate twice before
fertilization is fully accomplished. But the average queen mates but
once and the drone, in the act of copulation, loses his life, dying
instantly.
 Fig. 7—Sexual Organs of the Drone.
a, a, testicles; b, b, mucous glands; c, seminal duct; d, formation of
spermataphore; f, spermatozoa.

14. After the swarming season is over, or should the honey

season prove unfavorable and the crop short, they are mercilessly
destroyed by the workers.
Should a colony lose its queen, the drones will be retained later;
instinct teaching them that, without the drone, the young queen
would remain unfertile, and the colony soon become extinct.
15. When comparing the head of the drone (Fig. 8), with those
of the queen and the worker (Figs. 2 and 10), one readily notices
the compound eyes, those crescent-shaped projections on each side
of the head. They are much larger in the drone than in either of the
others, and this is ascribed by scientists to the necessity of finding
the queen in the air, on the wing. The facets composing these eyes
number some 25,000 in the head of the drone, so that they can see
in all directions. The three small points in a triangle at the top of the
head are small eyes or ocelli, which are probably used to see in the
dark, within the hive, and at short range.

Fig. 8—Head of Drone (magnified).

16. It has been common among beekeepers to believe that the

drones serve another purpose in the hive, aside from their use as
males. It is said that they keep the brood warm. As a matter of
course, they keep themselves upon the brood combs, when
permitted, as much to enjoy the natural warmth of the living grubs
as to keep them warm. But the fallacy of the belief in their being
required to keep up the warmth is clearly seen when the bees drive
them out and destroy them at the least reverse in the temperature.
The greatest number of drones are reared in the warmest part of the
season and their uselessness for other purposes than the fertilization
of the queens is very positively proven.

The Workers
17. These are undeveloped females, and they do all the work
that is done in the hive. They secrete the wax, build the comb,
ventilate the hive, gather the pollen for the young, and honey for all,
feed and rear the brood, and fight all the battles necessary to
defend the colony.
Of the three kinds of bees these are the smallest, but constitute
the great mass of the population. They possess the whole ruling
power of the colony and regulate its economy.
18. The details of the head of a bee are very interesting. We
have already mentioned, when speaking of the drone, the compound
eyes, which are larger and contain a greater number of facets in the
male than in either the queen or the worker.

Fig. 9—The Worker.

19. The bees have short, thick, smooth mandibles, working

sidewise instead of up and down as in higher animals. These
mandibles have no teeth like those of wasps and hornets, and yet
enable them to tear the soft corolla of flowers and to build their
combs out of wax. They are therefore incapable of cutting the
smooth skin of sound fruits of any kind.
20. The tongue of the honeybee is made of several parts,
ligula, palpi and maxillae (Fig. 12). The central part or ligula is
grooved like a trough. When at rest it is folded below the mentum or
chin.

Fig.10—Head of Worker (magnified).

 21. In the head and thorax are three pairs of salivary glands,
two of which at least are evidently used to produce the saliva which
changes the chemical condition of the nectar of blossoms into that
of honey. The largest pair of glands is supposed to be used in the
production of the pap for the larvæ, as will be seen further (33).
22. The antennæ or feelers are the two long horns which
protrude from the head of the bee. This exists in all insects. The
popular name of “feelers” is very proper, for it is with these antennæ
that the bee examines every body or thing with which it comes in
contact. They appear to serve the purpose of smell, touch and
hearing. It is however claimed by a modern scientist, Mr. McIndoo,
of the Bureau of Entomology at Washington, that the bees do not
smell through the antennæ and that there are organs of smell,
located in other parts of the body, at the joints of wings, legs, etc. It
is true also that the organs of breathing are not in the head, but in
the abdomen, between the rings or segments of the third section of
the body. However, until further proof is adduced, we must continue,
with all entomological students, to ascribe the detection of the most
minute odors to the antennæ, since it is with these organs that they
examine the blossoms, the combs, their friends and their enemies.
As there are usually tens of thousands of bees in a colony and they
very readily recognize their own members, it must be with the
antennæ that this recognition is achieved.

Fig. 11—The Worker (magnified).

 23. The honey sac (Fig. 13), or first stomach, is located in the
abdomen or third segment of the body of the bee. From this
stomach, the bee may at will digest a part of the honey, by forcing it
to the second stomach for the nourishment of its body, or it may be
discharged back through the mouth into the cells for future use (49).
Another use of the honey is to make comb, as will be explained
further (38).

Fig. 12—Tongue and Appendages.

Fig. 12—(a) tongue, (b) labial palpi, (c) maxillæ
Another Random Scribd Document
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treatment. On the western edge of Pelham Bay Park is Hutchinson's
River, flowing down into Eastchester Bay, and recalling the days of
the Salem witchcraft. Poor Anne Hutchinson fled here to escape
burning as a witch, and on City Island built a hut on a little cape still
called Anne Hook. She lived there peacefully for a year, harming
nobody and declining every invitation to stir from her humble abode.
One day a young girl went to visit Anne, but found the hut in ashes,
and before the door lay the poor woman, where she had been
tomahawked and scalped by the Indians. No one has built a house
on Anne Hook since, and many have been the tales told of ghostly
Indian revels on bleak and rainy nights around the site of the
burning hut. On the mainland were Indian villages, and here have
been found relics, and in 1899 there was exhumed the skeleton of
an Indian warrior.

EAST RIVER AND HELL GATE.

The Harlem River, flowing into the East River, divides Manhattan
from Ward's Island, and this, with Randall's Island to the north and
Blackwell's Island to the south, forms the group of "East River
Islands" upon which are the penal and charitable institutions of the
great city. The chief of these are on Blackwell's Island, a long,
narrow strip stretching nearly two miles in the centre of East River,
and barely more than two hundred yards wide. It covers one
hundred and twenty acres, and has the penitentiary, almshouses,
workhouses and hospitals, the spacious buildings being of granite
quarried there by the convicts. Over on the New York City shore is
the extensive Bellevue Hospital. In cases of vagrancy and minor
crimes, the offender is said to be "sent up to the Island." Ward's
Island has a surface of two hundred acres, and here are the Lunatic
Asylum and Emigrant Hospital. Randall's Island has the institutions
for children and idiots, while upon Hart's Island, out in Long Island
Sound, are industrial schools and the pauper cemetery. The buildings
are all upon a most elaborate scale, and it costs over $2,000,000 for
their annual maintenance. A steamboat ride along East River, with
these extensive establishments and their well-kept grounds passing
in review, is a most interesting suburban excursion.
The Long Island shore to the southward of Ward's Island is thrust
out in a way that curves and contracts the East River passage,
which, turning eastward just below where the Harlem River comes
in, goes through the famous Hell Gate to reach the Sound. Formerly,
the swift tidal currents boiled and eddied through this dangerous
pass, Hallett's Point, jutting out from Long Island, narrowing the
channel, and Pot Rock, Flood Rock, the Gridiron and other reefs
making navigation perilous. Many were the wrecks here, and
frequent ineffective efforts were made to improve the passage. The
Government finally undertook the work in 1866 under a
comprehensive plan projected by General Newton. His first task was
the removal of the Hallett's Point reef, a mass of rock projecting
three hundred feet into the stream and throwing the whole tidal
current coming in from the Sound against the great opposing rock
called the Gridiron. He first sunk a shaft upon the Point and
excavated the inland side so that it made a perpendicular wall which
was curved around, and designed for the future edge of the river.
From the shaft, tunnels were bored into the reef under the river in
radiating directions, being connected by concentric galleries. The
design was to remove as much rock as possible without letting the
water in from overhead, and then to blow the rocky roof and
supporting columns into fragments and remove them at leisure. This
work began in 1869, the shaft being sunk thirty-two feet below
mean low water and the tunnels drilled out, inclining downward
under the river. In 1876 the task was finished, and thousands of
separate dynamite blasts had been placed in the roof and supporting
columns, ready for the explosion on Sunday, September 24th. This
being the greatest artificial explosion ever attempted, there was
much trepidation shown in New York for fear of the shock, while
everywhere the keenest interest was taken in the result. The blast
was entirely successful, being discharged by General Newton's little
child, who touched the electric key. The calculation had been so
accurately made that the great reef was pulverized, and the
fragments fell into the spaces excavated beneath without causing
more than a slight tremor in the adjacent region. By a similar system
and more extensive work, Flood Rock was afterwards removed from
mid-channel, the second great blast reducing it to fragments, being
discharged in October, 1885. The terrors of Hell Gate are gone,
though the tide still flows swiftly through the strait.

THE BROOKLYN BRIDGE.

The growth of population on Long Island has caused various new
bridges and tunnels to be projected for crossing East River. One new
bridge is to cross at Blackwell's Island, with a pier on the island.
Another now nearly completed, and estimated to cost $10,000,000,
crosses from Grand Street to Broadway in Brooklyn. The Long Island
Railroad is arranging to bore a tunnel under East River, to be
operated by electricity, to bring its trains into New York. The East
River being the locality for most of the foreign shipping, the bridges
are at high elevations, the great Brooklyn Bridge, which crosses from
City Hall Park, being one hundred and thirty-five feet above the
water. Its massive piers are among the tallest structures about New
York, rising two hundred and sixty-eight feet. This, the largest
suspension bridge in the world, was begun in 1870 and opened for
traffic in 1885. The piers stand upon caissons sunk into the rocky
bed of the river, which is forty-five feet below the surface on the
Brooklyn side and ninety feet below on the New York side. Their
towers carry four sixteen-inch wire cables that sustain the bridge,
which is built eighty-five feet wide, giving ample accommodation for
two railways, two wagon roads also carrying electric cars, and a
wide raised footway in the centre. The bridge cost nearly
$15,000,000, the distance between the piers is about sixteen
hundred feet, and its entire length between the anchorages of the
cables is three thousand four hundred and seventy-five feet. The
cable anchorages are enormous masses, each containing about
thirty-five thousand cubic yards of solid masonry. The whole length
of the bridge and its elaborate approaches is considerably over a
mile. Its projector was John A. Roebling, who died during the early
work, and its builder, his son Washington Roebling, who caught the
dreaded "caisson disease" while superintending labor under water,
and for years afterward an invalid, watched the progress of the later
work from his chamber window on Brooklyn Heights nearby. The
bridge has carried an enormous traffic, taxing its capacity to the
utmost, and its passengers average over a million a week. The view
from its raised footway is one of the most superb sights of New
York, disclosing both cities, and the extensive wharves and
commerce of East River, the Navy Yard just above, and for miles
over the surrounding region and down through the harbor to the
distant blue hills of Staten Island.

THE CITY OF CHURCHES.

The Borough of Brooklyn, which has grown from the overflow of
New York, whose people are said to go over there "chiefly to sleep
or be buried," is popularly known as the "City of Churches." A large
portion of the working population of the metropolis, as well as the
merchants and business men, make it their home and dormitory,
while there are beautiful cemeteries in the suburbs peopled largely
by dead New Yorkers. Greenwood, overlooking New York harbor
from Gowanus Heights in South Brooklyn, is regarded as one of the
finest American cemeteries. In no other city can be found such an
aggregation of churches, developed in a past generation, and under
the ministry of a regiment of distinguished clergymen, then led by
Beecher and Storrs, so that the popular title was well bestowed.
Brooklyn is entirely the growth of the nineteenth century, a growth
due to the inability of New York to spread, excepting far northward.
It stretches several miles along East River and three or four miles
inland, and grows rapidly. When the century began, however, it was
hard work to find three thousand people there, and, strangely
enough, they had to cross over to New York to go to church. Just
about the time old Peter Minuit was buying Manhattan from the
Indians, a band of Walloons first settled in Brooklyn. Their
descendants drove cows across East River to Governor's Island to
graze, the Buttermilk Channel between them being then shallow
enough for fording, though it is now scoured out deep enough to
float the largest vessels, the docks located where the cows then
crossed now accommodating an enormous commerce. At first a little
ferry from Fulton Street to Peck Slip, New York, accommodated the
straggling village, and it has grown into more than a dozen steam
ferries of the largest capacity, which (besides the bridge) will carry
daily a half-million people across at one cent apiece, this fleet of
packet-boats being the greatest transporters of humanity in the
world.
The Indians called the region around Wallabout Bay, and Gowanus
Mercychawick, meaning "the sandy place." When the Walloons came
along, they began settling on the shores of the bay, which they
called Waal-bogt, afterwards gradually changed to its present name
of Wallabout. In 1646 the town was organized by Governor Kieft as
Breuckelen, he appointing Jan Eversen Bout and Huyck Aertsen as
"schepens" or superintendents to preserve the peace and regulate
the community. During the Revolution the British prison-ships were
moored in the Wallabout, and it is estimated that eleven thousand
five hundred Americans, chiefly seamen, died upon them, the shores
of the bay being full of dead men's bones, which the tides for many
years washed out from the sand. In 1808 these bones were finally
collected and put in a vault near the Navy Yard, which had been
established on the bay. This is the chief naval station of the United
States, covering about eighty-eight acres, including all the available
space. There is attached a large naval hospital, while between the
two is the immense Wallabout Market, covering forty-five acres, the
largest in Brooklyn, its buildings being brick structures in the old
Dutch style.
Fulton Street is the chief highway of Brooklyn, beginning almost
under the shadow of the great Bridge. It is a broad and attractive
street, stretching six miles to the eastern edge of the city, and about
one mile from the river it passes the various city buildings, including
the Post-office, Court-house and Borough Hall, all handsome
structures. In front of the Borough Hall is a fine statue of Brooklyn's
most famous clergyman, Henry Ward Beecher. From Fulton Street
radiate several of the highways leading into the fashionable
residential quarter,—Brooklyn or Columbia Heights,—overlooking
East River, where the tree-bordered streets are lined with costly and
attractive dwellings. Here in Orange Street, in a very quiet spot, is
Brooklyn's most noted edifice, a plain, wide, unornamented brick
building, with the inscription, "Plymouth Church, 1849." Here
preached for nearly forty years, until he died in 1887, Beecher, the
great Puritan, whose family was so noted. His father, Lyman Beecher,
like the son, fought slavery and intemperance in Boston, Litchfield
and Cincinnati, and was an impressive pulpit orator. The old man
was eccentric, however, and after being wrought up by the
excitement of preaching, is said to have gone home and let himself
down by playing on the fiddle and dancing a double-shuffle in the
parlor. He had thirteen children, nearly all famous, and has been
described as "the father of more brains than any other man in
America." Four sons were clergymen and two daughters noted
authoresses. Henry Ward, who ruled Brooklyn, and Harriet, who
wrote Uncle Tom's Cabin, were among the great leaders of the anti-
slavery movement.
Clinton Street leaves Fulton a little beyond Orange, and passes
southward through Brooklyn Heights, being the chief street of the
fashionable district. Embowered in trees, handsome churches and
residences border it, and Pierrepont, Remsen, Montague and other
noted streets extend at right angles from it to the edge of the bluff,
where the Heights fall sharply off to the river. Here, at seventy feet
elevation, and overlooking the lower level of buildings and piers at
the water's edge, are the terraces where the finest residences are
located, having a magnificent outlook upon the harbor and New York
City beyond. The ships land their cargoes within almost a stone's
throw of the palaces. In this district there are several large
apartment-houses and various clubs, a statue of Alexander Hamilton
adorning the front of the Hamilton Club at Remsen and Clinton
Streets. Upon Remsen Street is another noted building, the
Congregational "Church of the Pilgrims," a spacious graystone edifice
with towers, its most prominent tower and spire being a
commanding landmark for vessels sailing up New York Bay. There is
let into the outer wall of this church, about six feet above the
pavement, a small piece of the original "Plymouth Rock" whereon
the Pilgrims in 1620 landed in Massachusetts Bay—a dark, rough-
hewn fragment, projecting with irregular surface a few inches from
the wall. As an author, lecturer and preacher, the veteran pastor for
over a half-century, Dr. Richard Salter Storrs, acquired wide renown.
Upon Clinton Street is the elegant Pointed Gothic brownstone St.
Ann's Episcopal Church, famous for its choir, and on Montague Street
the Holy Trinity Church, its spire rising two hundred and seventy-five
feet. But almost everywhere are churches, there being about five
hundred in Brooklyn. The noted Pratt Institute is one of the best
known charities of the city, founded and endowed by Charles Pratt,
an oil prince, as a technical school, its spacious and well-equipped
buildings caring for thirty-four hundred students. The object of this
noble institution is "to promote manual and industrial education, and
to inculcate habits of industry and thrift."

GREENWOOD CEMETERY AND PROSPECT PARK.

A border of tombs almost surrounds Brooklyn, for in the suburbs are
the great cemeteries which are the burial-places of both cities. In
lovely situations upon the surrounding hills are Greenwood, Cypress
Hills, Evergreen, Holy Cross, Calvary, Mount Olivet, The Citizens'
Union, Washington and other cemeteries, occupying many hundreds
of acres. Of these, the noted Greenwood is the chief, covering some
four hundred acres on Gowanus Heights, south of the city. This is a
high ridge dividing Brooklyn from the lowlands on the south side of
Long Island, and it has elevations giving charming views. The route
to it crosses various railroads leading to Coney Island, which is the
ultimate objective point of most Brooklyn lines of transit. A neat
lawn-bordered road leads up to the magnificent cemetery entrance
on Fifth Avenue, an elaborate and much ornamental brownstone
structure rising into a central pinnacle over a hundred feet high. This
entrance covers two fine gateways, with representations of Gospel
scenes, the principal being the Raising of Lazarus and the
Resurrection. The grounds display great beauty, the ridgy, rounded
hills spreading in all directions, the surface being an alternation of
hills and vales, vaults terracing the hillsides, with elaborate
mausoleums above and frequent little lakes nestling in the pleasant
valleys. Vast sums have been expended on some of the grander
tombs, which are upon a scale of great magnificence. The attractive
rural names of the walks and avenues, the delicious flowers and
foliage, the balmy air, the lakes, valleys and points of beautiful
outlook giving grand views over New York Bay and the surrounding
country, make Greenwood a park as well as a cemetery, and it is
generally admitted to be without a peer. Many costly pantheons and
chapels cover the remains of well-known people, and one
mausoleum is a large marble church. A three-sided monument of
peculiar construction standing on a knoll marks the resting-place of
Samuel F. B. Morse, the telegrapher. Horace Greeley's tomb has his
bust in bronze on a pedestal. A colossal statue surmounts the grave
of the great De Witt Clinton, the Governor of New York who built the
Erie Canal and thus secured the commercial supremacy of the city.
The romantic career of Lola Montez ended in Greenwood.
Commodore Garrison, who was at one time Vanderbilt's rival in
steamship management, is interred in a mosque. The tomb of the
Steinways is a large granite building. A magnificent marble canopy
crowns the Scribner tomb, having beneath it an angel of mercy.
There is an appropriate monument to Roger Williams. Here are also
buried Elias Howe, the inventor of the sewing-machine, Peter
Cooper, Henry Ward Beecher, James Gordon Bennett, Henry George
and others of fame. The Firemen, the Pilots and the New York
Volunteers all have grand monuments, the statue sentinels of the
latter overlooking the bay. Among these magnificent sepulchres,
probably the most magnificent is that of Charlotte Canda, an heiress,
who died in early youth, her fortune being expended upon her tomb.
There is a high lookout upon the eastern border of this attractive
place, where the flat land at the base of the ridge spreads for miles
away to the sea. The Coney Island hotels, by the ocean side, are
dim in the distance, and far over the water the Navesink Highlands
close the view beyond Sandy Hook. The many railroads leading to
Coney Island can be traced out, as on a map, across the level land.
Over on the western side of the cemetery is another lookout, having
a broad view of Brooklyn and the harbor, extending to the hills of
Staten Island and the distant Jersey lowlands beyond. This is the
verge of Gowanus Heights, with the busy commerce of the port
spread at its base. It is this magnificent scene which the marble
sentinels overlook who are guarding the Volunteers' Monument
erected by the city of New York.
Between Greenwood Cemetery and Prospect Park there are various
railways, all going to Coney Island, and also the Ocean Parkway,
leading thither, a splendid boulevard, two hundred feet wide, and
planted with six rows of trees, being flanked on either side by a
broad cycle-path. It is laid in a straight line from the southwestern
corner of the Park for three miles to the great seaside resort.
Prospect Park covers nearly a square mile on an elevated ridge on
the edge of Brooklyn, and it has great natural attractions which did
not need much change to improve the landscape, while the fine old
trees that have been there for centuries are in magnificent maturity.
Its woods and meadows, winding roads, lakes and views, combine
many charms. On Lookout Hill, rising two hundred feet, the most
commanding point, with a view almost entirely around the compass,
there is a monument on the slope in memory of the Maryland troops
who fell in the Revolutionary battle of Long Island, fought in August,
1776, on these heights. The Park is ornamented with several
statues, including one of Abraham Lincoln, and there is a bust of
John Howard Payne, the author of Home, Sweet Home. It has an
extensive lake, a deer preserve, children's playgrounds, and a
concert grove and promenade. The main entrance is a fine elliptical
plaza with a splendid fountain, and adorned by a Memorial Arch to
the Soldiers and Sailors of the Civil War, and a statue of James
Stranahan, a venerable citizen of Brooklyn, foremost in all its good
works, who died in 1898. The Brooklyn Institute, an academy of art
and science with a large membership, has a large building in the
Park.

CONEY ISLAND.
Pretty much all routes through Brooklyn, as already indicated, lead
to Coney Island, the barren strip of white sand, clinging to the
southern edge of Long Island, about ten miles from New York, which
is the objective point of the populace when in sweltering summer
weather they crave a breath of sea air. The antiquarians of the island
insist that it was the earliest portion of these adjacent coasts
discovered, and tell how Verrazani came along about 1529 and
found this sand-strip, and how Hudson, nearly a century later, held
conferences with the Indians on the island. But however that may
be, its wonderful development as a summer resort has only come
since the Civil War. It has a hard and gently-sloping beach facing the
Atlantic, and can be so easily and cheaply reached, by so many
routes on land and water, that it is no wonder, on hot afternoons and
holidays, the people of New York and Brooklyn go down there by the
hundreds of thousands. Coney Island is about five miles long, and
from a quarter-mile to a mile in width, being separated from the
adjacent low-lying mainland only by a little crooked creek and some
lagoons. It has two bays deeply indented behind it, Gravesend Bay
on the west and Sheepshead Bay on the east. The name is derived
from Cooney Island, meaning the "Rabbit Island," rabbits having
been the chief inhabitants in earlier days. The Coney Island season
of about a hundred days, from June until September, is an almost
uninterrupted festival, and nothing can exceed the jollity on these
beaches, when a hot summer sun drives the people down to the
shore to seek relief and have a good time. They spread over the
miles of sand-strip, with scores of bands of music of varying merit in
full blast, minstrel shows, miniature theatres, Punch and Judy,
merry-go-rounds and carrousels, big snakes, fat women, giant,
dwarf, midget and pugilistic exhibitions, shooting-galleries, concerts,
circuses, fortune-tellers, swings, toboggan slides, scenic railways,
and myriads of other attractions; lakes of beer on tap, with ample
liquids of greater strength; and everywhere a good-humoured
crowd, sight-seeing and enjoying themselves, eating, drinking, and
very numerously consuming the great Coney Island delicacy, "clam-
chowder." To the clam, which is universal and popular, the visitors
pay special tribute. This famous bivalve is the Mya Arenaria of the
New England coast, said to have been for years the chief food of the
Pilgrim fathers. Being found in abundance in all the neighboring
waters, it is served in every style, according to taste. As the Coney
Island "Song of the Clam" has it:

"Who better than I? in chowder or pie,

Baked, roasted, raw or fried?
I hold the key to society,
And am always welcome inside."

The long and narrow Coney Island sand-strip may be divided into
four distinctive sections—a succession of villages chiefly composed
of restaurants, lodging-houses and hotels, built along the edge of
the beach, and usually on a single road behind it. In the past
generation the rougher classes best knew its western end or
Norton's Point, a resort of long standing. The middle of the island is
a locality of higher grade—West Brighton Beach. Here great iron
piers project into the ocean, being availed of for steamboat landings,
restaurants and amusement places, while beneath are bathing
establishments. Electricity and fireworks are used extensively to add
to the attractions, and there is also a tall Observatory. The broad
Ocean Parkway, coming down from Prospect Park and Brooklyn,
terminates at West Brighton Beach. East of this is a partially vacant,
semi-marshy space, beyond which is Brighton Beach, there being a
roadway and elevated railroad connecting them. Brighton is the third
section, and about a half-mile farther east is the fourth and most
exclusive section—Manhattan Beach. Here are the more elaborate
and costly Coney Island hotels. In all this district the power of the
ocean is shown in the effect of great storms, which wash away
roads, railways and buildings, and shift enormous amounts of the
sands from one locality, piling them up in front of another. Huge
hotels have had to be moved, in some cases bodily, a thousand feet
back inland from the ocean front, to save them, and immense
bulkheads constructed for protection; but sometimes the waves play
havoc with these. Very much of the money spent by the visitors has
to be devoted to saving the place and preventing the wreck of the
great buildings. But this does not worry the visitors so much as it
does the landlords. On a hot day the vast crowds arriving on the
trains are poured into the hotels, and swarm out upon the grounds
fronting them, where the bands play. Here the orchestras give
concerts to enormous audiences. The piazzas are filled with supper-
parties, the music amphitheatres are crowded, and thousands
saunter over the lawns. As evening advances, the blaze of electric
illumination and brilliancy of fireworks are added, and the music,
bustling crowds and general hilarity give the air of a splendid
festival. The bathing establishments are crowded, and many go into
the surf under the brilliant illumination. Not a tree will grow, so that
the view over the sea is unobstructed, and out in front is the
pathway of ocean commerce into New York harbor, with the
twinkling, guiding lights of Sandy Hook and its attendant lightships
beyond. What a guardian to the mariner is the lighthouse:

"'Tis like a patient, faithful soul

That, having reached its saintly goal,
And seeing others far astray
In storms of darkness and dismay,
Shines out o'er life's tempestuous sea,
A beacon to some sheltered lee,—
The haven of eternity."
The tall Observatory, on its airy steel framework, rises three hundred
feet to overlook the wonderful scene. When the top is reached, the
first impression made is by the dissonant clangor of the many bands
of music below, heard with singular clearness and much more
intensity of sound than on the ground. This discord ascends from all
sorts of structures, generally having flat pitch-and-gravel roofs,
forming a variegated carpet far below. Coney Island stretches along
the ocean's edge, with the lines of foaming surf slowly rolling in. To
the eastward, at Brighton and Manhattan Beaches, it bends
backward like a bow, with semicircular indentations where the sea
has made its inroads. To the westward, the curve of the beach is
reversed, and the extreme point of the island ends in a knob having
a distinctive hook bent back on the northern side. Behind the long
and narrow strip of sand there are patches of grass, and much
marsh and meadow, spreading away to the northward, and
meandering through the marsh can be traced the crooked little tidal
creek and series of lagoons separating Coney from the mainland. Far
away northward runs the broad tree-bordered Ocean Parkway, with
the hills of Prospect Park and the tombs and foliage of Greenwood
Cemetery hiding Brooklyn, and closing the view at the distant
horizon. Various railways stretch in the same direction, some
crossing the bogs on extended trestle-bridges. Many carriages are
moving and thousands of people walking about in the streets and
open spaces beneath us, while upon the ocean side the piers extend
out in front, with their steamboats sailing to or from the Narrows to
the northward, around the knob and hook at Norton's Point. Far
south over the water are the distant Navesink Highlands behind
Sandy Hook and the low adjacent New Jersey Coast, gradually
blending into the Staten Island hills to the westward. Around from
the south to the east is the broad and limitless expanse of ocean,
where, in the words of Heinrich Heine:
 "The cloudlets are lazily sailing
O'er the blue Atlantic sea."

Far to the eastward, seen across the broad Jamaica Bay, are more
low sandy beaches, each with its popular resort, though all pale
before the crowning glories of Coney Island. There is Rockaway, with
its iron pier and railway connecting with the mainland to the
northeast, also Arverne and Edgemere, the distant cottage-studded
Long Beach, and the hazy sand-beaches of Far Rockaway. And as we
gaze over this wondrous scene down by the water side, the
freshening wind gives a pleasant foretaste of old ocean, and recalls
the invocation of Barry Cornwall:

"The sea! the sea! the open sea!

The blue, the fresh, the ever free!
Without a mark, without a bound,
It runneth the earth's wide regions round.

"I'm on the sea! I'm on the sea!

I am where I would ever be,
With the blue above, and the blue below,
And silence wheresoe'er I go.

"I never was on the dull tame shore,

But I loved the great sea more and more."
THE ENVIRONMENT OF LONG ISLAND SOUND.

IX.
THE ENVIRONMENT OF LONG ISLAND SOUND.
The Isle of Nassau—Captain Adraien Blok—Roodt Eylandt—Block Island—Great
South Bay—Great South Beach—Jamaica Bay—Hempstead Bay—Fire Island and
its Lighthouse—Shinnecock—Quogue-East Hampton—Lyman Beecher—John
Howard Payne—Garden City—Jericho—Elias Hicks—Flushing Bay—Throgg's Neck
—Willett's Point—Little Neck Bay—Great Neck—Sands Point—Harbor Hill—
William Cullen Bryant—Oyster Bay—Lloyds' Neck—Nathan Hale—Ronkonkoma
Lake—The Wampum Makers—Mamaroneck—Byram River—The Wooden-Nutmeg
State—Brother Jonathan—Greenwich—Old Put's Hill—Stamford—Colonel
Abraham Davenport—The Dark Day—Norwalk—Sasco Swamp—Fairfield—
Pequannock River—Bridgeport—Phineas T. Barnum—Joyce Heth—General Tom
Thumb—Jenny Lind—Old Stratford—Milford—New Haven—Quinnepiack—John
Davenport—Yale College—Killingworth—Elihu Yale—Steamboat Fulton—East and
West Rocks—The Regicides—Wallingford—James Hillhouse—Savin Rock—
Saybrook Point—Guilford—Connecticut River—The Sachem's Head—Thimble
Islands—Saybrook Platform—Old Saybrook—Thames River—New London—
Groton—Silas Deane—Fort Hill—Pequot Hill—Defeat of the Pequots—Pawcatuck
—Stonington—Watch Hill Point—Westerly—Orient Point—Plum Island—Plum Gut
—Shelter Island—The Gull Islands—The Horse Race—Fisher's Island—Gardiner's
Island—Lyon Gardiner—Captain Kidd and his Buried Treasures—Sag Harbor—
Montauk Indians—Money Pond—Fort Pond Bay—Montauk Point and its
Lighthouse—Ultima Thule—Isle of Manisees—Block Islanders—Whittier—Palatine
Wreck.

THE ISLE OF NASSAU.

The first white man who sailed upon Long Island Sound was the
bluff old Dutch navigator, Captain Adraien Blok. Desirous of
adventure and spoil, he built upon the shore of the Battery, in 1614,
the first ship ever constructed at New York, a blunt-pointed Dutch
sloop-yacht of sixteen tons, which he named the "Onrest." The four
little huts he had upon the shore to house his builders and crew
were among the first structures of the early Manhattan colony.
Fitting her out, he braved the terrors of the Hell Gate passage and
started on a voyage of discovery on Long Island Sound, which he
explored throughout. He found the mouth of the principal river of
New England, the Connecticut, and coasting around Point Judith,
entered Narragansett Bay, and cast anchor before an island with
such conspicuously red-clay shores that he called it Roodt Eylandt,
or the Red Island, on which Newport now stands. Then he ventured
out to sea and found the bluff shores of Block Island, to which he
gave his own name. Sated with exploration and loaded with spoil
exchanged with the Indians, he then returned to New York and told
of his wonderful adventures. His was the first vessel, manned by
white men, known to have sailed upon the "Mediterranean of
America," as Long Island Sound is popularly called. This grand inland
sea is generally from twenty to thirty miles wide, and is enclosed by
Long Island, the ancient Isle of Nassau of the Dutch, stretching for
one hundred and thirty miles eastward from New York harbor, and
being likened to a fish lying upon the water. It has a generally bluff
northern shore along the Sound, and the southern coast, which is
low and level almost to the eastern extremity, lies nearly due east
and west, the island finally breaking into a chain of narrow
peninsulas and islands facing the rising sun. The southern border is
a continuous line of broad lagoons, separated from the Atlantic by
long and narrow sand-bars. The chief lagoon is the Great South Bay,
eighty miles long, fronted by the curious formation of the Great
South Beach, stretching its entire length, and from one to five miles
wide. Upon the outer beaches, and within the lagoons, are a
succession of noted seashore resorts. Eastward, beyond Jamaica Bay
and Rockaway, is Long Beach, and behind it Hempstead Bay. Then
come Jones' Beach and Oak Island, with Massapequa, Amityville and
Lindenhurst behind them. Then we are at Babylon and Bayshore,
with the Great South Bay fronted by Fire Island, and beyond it the
long sand-strip of the Great South Beach. The famous lighthouse of
Fire Island, the guiding beacon to New York, one hundred and sixty-
eight feet high, is flanked by summer hotels, and its flashing electric
light of twenty-three million candlepower is the most powerful on
the Atlantic Coast. The Great South Bay spreads far eastward past
Patchogue to Moriches, and then comes Quogue and the Hamptons,
where the level land rises into the Shinnecock hills. At the eastern
extremity are Amagansett and Montauk. It is a long coast, fringed
with lights to point the mariner's way into New York harbor.
They tell us that when the "Onrest" came into the Sound there were
thirteen tribes of Indians on Long Island, and that it was the mint for
the aborigines, these tribes being the great makers of wampum, the
Indian money, for which its beaches and bays furnished the
materials. The Montauks, on the eastern end, were the most
formidable, and were usually carrying on wars with the Pequots,
across the Sound in New England. Out on Shinnecock Neck is the
reservation where live the small remnant of the Shinnecock tribe,
there being barely a hundred of them, each family in a little house
on a little farm it tills. Around Jamaica Bay once lived the Jameko
tribe, all now disappeared. At quaintly named Quogue, Daniel
Webster used to go fishing and bathing. The hill tops of the
Hamptons have perched upon them the picturesque old Dutch
windmills which are so attractive to the artists, and at East Hampton
still stands the venerable gabled house where lived Lyman Beecher
in his earlier ministry, and where his elder children, Catharine and
Edward Beecher, were born. Here also passed his boyhood, before
he began wandering over the earth, the author of Home, Sweet
Home, John Howard Payne, his father being the village
schoolmaster. Payne's quaint little shingled cottage is East
Hampton's most sacred memorial. The inhabitants of East Hampton
are so much in love with their healthy home, which dates from 1648,
that on its two hundred and fiftieth anniversary, celebrated in 1898,
the announcement was made that they "like East Hampton in a thick
fog better than any other place in full sunshine." Eastward from
Jamaica, in the western centre of Long Island, are Creedmoor, the
noted rifle range, Hempstead, where the New York troops were
mobilized in 1898 for the Spanish War, and Garden City, the model
suburban town laid out by Alexander T. Stewart, containing a
handsome Episcopal Cathedral. Not far away is Hicksville, and to the
northward the ancient town of Jericho. This was a tract bought from
the Indians by Robert, the brother of Roger Williams, in 1650, which
afterwards became a place of Quaker settlement, and here lived and
preached for sixty years the famous Elias Hicks, the founder of one
of the Quaker sects. He was an opponent of war and of slavery, and
rode all over the country as a missionary preacher.

THE NORTHERN LONG ISLAND SHORE.

The steamboat entering Long Island Sound from New York, after
passing Hell Gate and crossing Flushing Bay, emerges from the strait
of East River between Throgg's Neck and Whitestone. Upon the end
of Throgg's Neck, the jutting point has the graystone ramparts and
surmounting earthworks of its ancient guardian, Fort Schuyler.
Thrust forward from the Long Island shore, as if to meet it, is the
protruding headland of Willett's Point, the Government torpedo
station. Here also is an old stone fort down by the waterside, with
the extensive ramparts of a modern fort on the bluff above. These
are the defensive works commanding the approach to New York
from Long Island Sound. In the neighboring havens are favorite
anchorages for yachts. Beyond are the expansive waters of the
Sound, and far off southward, thrust into the land, are the deep
recesses of Little Neck Bay, made famous by its clams, and protected
to the eastward by the curiously bifurcated peninsula of Great Neck.
The northern Long Island shore is very irregular, and rises into hills.
Bold peninsulas and deep bays form it, the surface being corrugated
into hillocks and valleys, and penetrated by narrow, shallow harbors.
The waves of the Sound have eroded the shores into steep and
often precipitous bluffs of gravel, sometimes rising a hundred feet
above the water, where narrow beaches, strewn with boulders,
border them. At Sands Point is a great peninsula protruding in high
sandy bluffs, and behind it is the highest mountain on Long Island,
Harbor Hill, rising three hundred and fifty feet above the village of
Roslyn, at the head of the deeply indented Hempstead Harbor,
where lived at his home of Cedarmere, for many years, William
Cullen Bryant, who now sleeps in the little cemetery.

William Cullen Bryant at "Cedarhurst,"

Roslyn

Oyster Bay is deeply indented into the land to the eastward,

surrounded by villas and attractive homes, and beyond protrudes the
broad, high headland of Lloyds' Neck. This was strongly fortified by
the British in the Revolution, and King William IV., then the youthful
Duke of Clarence, was at one time an officer of the garrison. It was
attacked and captured by the Americans who came over from
Connecticut in 1779, the garrison being taken prisoners.
Subsequently the British again took possession, and the French from
Newport attacked them in 1781, but were repulsed. The hero of
Oyster Bay is Captain Nathan Hale of Connecticut, whose statue
stands in New York City Hall Park. He had been sent by Washington
in 1776, across the Sound, to examine the British defenses of
Brooklyn, and, returning, was captured by some Tories at Oyster
Bay, and the next day hanged in New York as a spy. Though but
twenty-one years old, he met his fate bravely, saying: "I only regret
that I have but one life to give for my country." The British destroyed
his farewell letters, the provost-marshal saying "that the rebels
should not know they had a man in their army who could die with so
much firmness." Oyster Bay was bought in 1653 from the
Matinecock Indians by a Pilgrim colony from Sandwich,
Massachusetts, and a treaty made at Hartford established it as the
boundary between the Dutch of New York and the English of New
England. To the eastward are Huntingdon, Setauket and Port
Jefferson, popular resorts, and inland are Jerusalem and Islip, the
latter settled and named in the seventeenth century by emigrants
from old Islip, Oxfordshire, England. Here is the famous
Ronkonkoma Lake, so named by the Indians from the white sand of
its shores. It is a pretty sheet of fresh water among the forests,
about a mile in diameter, of great depth, and has neither inlet nor
outlet, though its surface level regularly rises and falls every four
years. Here lived the chief wampum makers, the Secatogue and
Patchogue tribes. Their wampum mainly consisted of the thick blue
part of clam shells, ground into the form of bugle beads, and strung
upon cards a foot long.

ENTERING NEW ENGLAND.

Coming out of New York on the northern shore of Long Island
Sound, the land is found to be profusely sprinkled with outcropping
rocks, a development so universal that to one place the Indians gave
the name of Mamaroneck, meaning "the place of rolling-stones."
These rocks are gathered into piles for fences, which cross the
surface in all directions, and it requires serious effort to till the stony
land. About twenty-five miles from New York is the Byram River, the
Connecticut boundary, the old saying being that New England
stretches "from Quoddy Head to Byram River." This original Yankee
land, though the smallest section of the United States, has made the
deepest impress upon the American character. They have not
enjoyed the agricultural advantages of other sections, the bleak
climate, poor soil and lavish distribution of rocks and sterility making
farming hard work with meagre results, so that the chief Yankee
energy has been devoted to the development of manufactures,
literature, commerce and the fisheries; this wonderful race who have
had to practically live by their wits having admirably succeeded.
Crossing Byram River brings us into the "Land of Steady Habits,"
Connecticut, the "Wooden-Nutmeg State," the special home of
"Yankee Notions," which gave the country the original personation of
"Brother Jonathan" in Governor Jonathan Trumbull, who was so
useful to General Washington. Consulting him in many emergencies,
Washington was wont to remark, "Let us hear what Brother
Jonathan says," a phrase finally popularly adopted by making him
the national impersonation.
Connecticut has the great Puritan College of the country—Yale—
ruled by the Congregationalists. It has varied manufactures, to which
its abundant water-powers contribute, and in which nearly all its
people are engaged, its methods being largely the inventions of its
own sons, of whom three are prominent—Eli Whitney of the cotton-
gin, Samuel Colt of the revolver, and Charles Goodyear of india-
rubber fame. When De Tocqueville was in America, he was much
impressed by the development of the inventive genius, education
and political force of the State, which he described as a little yellow
spot on the map, and at a dinner he proposed a toast, saying, in his
quaint, broken English: "And now for my grand sentiment: Connect-
de-coot—de leetle yellow spot dat make de clock-peddler, de school-
master and de Senator; de first give you time, de second tell you
what to do with him, and de third make your law and civilization."
Connecticut gets more patents proportionately than any other State,
one to eight hundred inhabitants being annually granted; it makes
clocks for all the world, and leads in india-rubber and elastic goods,
in hardware and myriads of "Yankee notions," besides being well in
the front for sewing-machines, arms and war material. It is named
after the chief New England river, and its rugged surface is
diversified by long ridges of hills and deep valleys, running generally
from north to south, being the prolongation of mountain ranges and
intervales that are beyond the northern border. The picturesque
Housatonic comes from the Massachusetts Berkshire hills down
through the western counties; the centre is crossed by the
Connecticut Valley, which has great fertility and beautiful scenery,
while in the eastern section the Quinnebaug River makes a deep
valley, and, flowing into the Thames, seeks the Sound at New
London. These many hills make many streams, all having water-
powers, around which cluster numerous busy factories.
The southwestern town of Connecticut is Greenwich, and in front
Greenwich Point is thrust out into the Sound, while, as the Yankee
land is entered by railway, on a high hill stands the Puritan outpost,
seen from afar—a stately graystone Congregational Church with its
tall spire. The ancient Greenwich village was built on the hillside at
Horse Neck, and it was here, in 1779, that General Putnam swiftly
galloped down the rude rocky stairway leading from the old church,
to get away from the British dragoons, on what has since been
known as "Old Put's Hill," and they were too much astonished either
to chase or shoot him. Beyond is Stamford, a busy factory town,
where lived in the eighteenth century Colonel Abraham Davenport,
described as "a man of stern integrity and generous benevolence."
He was a legislator, and when, on May 19, 1780, the memorable
"Dark Day" came in New England, some one, fearing it was the day
of judgment, proposed that the House adjourn. Davenport opposed
it, saying, "The day of judgment is either approaching, or it is not; if
it is, I choose to be found doing my duty; I wish therefore that
candles may be brought." This scene has been immortalized by
Whittier. The town of Norwalk is beyond, another nest of busy mills,
spreading upward on the hill-slopes from the Sound. The original
settlers bought from the Indians in 1640 a tract extending "one day's
north walk" from the Sound, and hence the name. Fine oysters are
gathered in the spacious bay, and the people make shoes and hats,
locks and door-knobs. On the lowlands to the eastward the Pequot
Indian nation, once ruling all this part of New England, the name
meaning "the destroyers," was finally overpowered in 1637 by the
Colonial troops in the Sasco Swamp, now a cultivated farm, with
almost the only highly fertile land seen in the immediate region.
Most of the Pequots were captured and sold as slaves in the West
Indies. Beyond is tranquil Fairfield, embowered in trees and
introduced by a rubber-factory, its green-bordered streets lined with
cottages, and church-spires rising among the groves, while along the
shore it has the finest beach on Long Island Sound.

BRIDGEPORT, OLD STRATFORD AND MILFORD.

Pequannock, the "dark river" of the Indians, flows out of the hills to
an inlet of the Sound, where the enormous mills of the active city of
Bridgeport have gathered a population of over fifty thousand people,
in a hive containing some of the world's greatest establishments for
constructing sewing-machines and firearms, building carriages, and
making cutlery, corsets and soaps, while other goods also occupy
attention. The grand Seaside Park esplanade overlooks the harbor,
and towards the north the city stretches up the slopes into Golden
Hill, named from its glittering mica deposits, where magnificent
streets display splendid buildings. When the Pequots were
exterminated in 1637, colonists founded this town, gradually
crowding the Paugusset Indians, who owned the land, into a small
reservation on Golden Hill. The great establishments to-day are the
Wheeler and Wilson and Howe Sewing-Machine Works, Sharp's Rifle
Factory and the Union Metallic Cartridge Company; and Bridgeport is
also the headquarters of the chief American circus. The stately and
high-towered mansion of Waldemere fronts the park, and was the
home of Bridgeport's best-known townsman, the veteran showman,
Phineas T. Barnum. Born in Connecticut, at Bethel, in 1810, he died
at Bridgeport in 1891. He first developed the financial advantages of
amusing the public, and possibly humbugging them on a grand
scale, and by working upon his oft-quoted theory that "the people
liked to be humbugged," twice amassed a large fortune. In early life
he wandered over the country earning a precarious livelihood in
various occupations, and in Philadelphia in 1834 began his career as
a showman. He bought for $1000 a colored slave-woman, Joyce
Heth, represented to be the nurse of George Washington and one
hundred and sixty-one years old. From her exhibition his receipts
reached $1500 a week, and she died the next year. In 1842 he
began exhibiting Charles S. Stratton, "General Tom Thumb," a native
of Bridgeport, born in 1832, whose size and growth were as usual
until his seventh month, when he had a stature of twenty-eight
inches, and ceased to grow. Barnum exhibited him in the United
States, France and England, and attracted world-wide notoriety.
Barnum started the American fashion of paying extravagant sums to
opera-singers, in 1849 engaging Jenny Lind to sing at one hundred
and fifty concerts in America for $1000 a night, the gross receipts of
a nine months' tour being $712,000. He subsequently had his
fortune swept away through endorsing $1,000,000 notes for a
manufacturing establishment that went down in the panic of 1857.
His fortunes were revived, however; he had museums in the leading
cities, and in his later life had the "Greatest Show on Earth," which
set out every spring from Bridgeport. Tom Thumb in 1863 married
Lavinia Warren of Middleboro', Massachusetts, a dwarf like himself,
and he died in 1882.
To the eastward a short distance, and in sharp contrast with active
Bridgeport, is quiet old Stratford, with Stratford Point protruding in
front into the Sound, at the entrance of the stately and placid
Housatonic, which comes down through the meadowland just
beyond the village. Here there are neither watering-place hotel nor
busy factory to disturb the ancient order of things, encumber the
greensward, or encroach upon the sleepy and comfortable houses,
where one may dream away in the twilight, under the shade of
grand trees that are even older than the town. Stratford is much the
same now as when settled by a Puritan colony from Massachusetts
in 1639, the leader and pastor being Adam Blackman, whom Cotton
Mather called "a Nazarite purer than snow and whiter than milk."
Across the patches of marshland, adjoining the Housatonic, is
Milford, its half-mile-long stretch of village green neatly enclosed,
and its houses upon the bank of the silvery Wap-o-wang, back of
which spread the wide streets lined by rows of overarching elms. A
colony from Milford in England settled here in 1639 and soon
crowded the Indians off the land, establishing the primitive church,
which was the usual beginning of New England settlements. Then,
true to the American instinct, they proceeded to hold a convention,
the result being the adoption of the following platform:
Voted, That the earth is the Lord's and the fulness thereof.
Voted, That the earth is given to the saints.
Voted, That we are the saints.
They had a good deal of trouble afterwards, both with the Dutch
from New York and the Indians, but the saints ultimately possessed
the earth in peace, and their successors are now making straw hats
for the country.

THE CITY OF ELMS.

The city of New Haven, the most populous in Connecticut, having a
hundred thousand people, is built upon a plain, surrounded by hills,
at the head of a deep bay extending several miles northward from
Long Island Sound. The magnificent elms, arching over the streets
and the Public Green, and grandly rising in stately rows, make the
earliest and the deepest impression upon the visitor. In one of his
most eloquent passages, Henry Ward Beecher said that the elms of
New England are as much a part of her beauty as the columns of the
Parthenon were the glory of its architecture. The grand foliage-
arched avenues of New Haven are unsurpassed elsewhere, so that
they are the crowning glory as well as the constant care of the
townsfolk. Among the finest is the avenue separating the Yale
College grounds from the Public Green—a magnificent Gothic aisle of
the richest foliage-covered interlacing boughs. The Indian name for
the region round about New Haven was Quinnepiack, and the placid
Quinnepiack River, coming from the northward, flows through a deep
valley past the towering East Rock into the harbor. Old John
Davenport was the leader and first pastor of the infant colony that
settled here. He was a powerful Anglican parish pastor of London
who had joined the Puritans, and in 1637 was forced to leave for
New England with many of his people. They spent a year in Boston,
but in April, 1638, sailed around Cape Cod to the Sound, and landed
at Quinnepiack, where they laid out a town plan with nine squares
for buildings, surrounding a large central square, the Public Green.
At the foundation, Davenport delivered a most impressive sermon
from the text, "Wisdom hath builded her house; she hath hewn out
her seven pillars;" and from this came the original scheme of
government for the colony by the seven leading church members,
who were known as the "seven pillars." The colony got on well with
the Indians, who revered Davenport, calling him "so big study man."
They bought the whole tract of one hundred and thirty square miles
from the Indians for thirteen coats. At first, however, they did not
prosper, their trading ventures proving unfortunate, and they
determined to abandon the place and remove elsewhere, selecting
Jamaica, and afterwards Galloway in Ireland. The ship carrying their
prospectors to Ireland sailed in January, 1647, but was never heard
from afterwards, save when, as the legend has it, "the spectre of the
ship sailed into the harbor in the teeth of a head-wind, and when in
full view of the anxious people, it slowly melted into thin air and
vanished." Then they decided to remain, and getting on better, in
1665 united their plantation with that of Connecticut at Hartford,
under the condition that each should be a capital, a compact
observed until 1874, when Hartford was made the sole capital. The
British in July, 1779, attacked and partly burnt and plundered the
town, the Americans galling them by desultory attacks as they
passed through the streets. They captured Rev. Naphtali Daggett,
President of Yale College, musket in hand, and with repeated
bayonet-thrusts forced him to guide them. When he was wearied
and sore from wounds they asked, "Will you fight again?" He sturdily
answered, "I rather believe I shall if I have an opportunity." Being
forced to pray for the King, he did it thus: "O Lord, bless thy servant
King George, and grant him wisdom, for thou knowest, O Lord, he
needs it."
The great fame of New Haven comes from Yale College, having two
hundred and fifty instructors and over twenty-five hundred students,
the orthodox Congregational University of New England, which for
two centuries has exerted a most advantageous and widely diffused
influence upon the American intellectual character, and around it and
its multitude of buildings of every kind clusters the town. In the year
1700 ten clergymen planned to have a college in the colony of
Connecticut, and for the purpose contributed as many books as they
could spare for its library. In 1701 it was chartered, and began in a
very small way at Saybrook, at the mouth of Connecticut River,
during the first year having only one student. The pastor of the
adjacent village of Killingworth was placed in charge, and for several
years the students went there to him, though the commencements
were held at Saybrook, and in 1707 the college was located at
Saybrook. Subsequently, for a more convenient location, it was
removed to New Haven, the first commencement being held there in
1718, and its first building being named Yale College, in honor of
Elihu Yale, a native of the town, born in 1648, who went abroad, and
afterwards became Governor of the East India Company. He made at
different times gifts of books and money amounting to about five
hundred pounds sterling, the benefactions being of greater value
because of their timeliness. His name was afterwards adopted in the
incorporation of the university. Timothy Dwight and Theodore D.
Woolsey were perhaps the greatest Presidents of Yale, and among
its graduates were Jonathan Edwards, Eli Whitney, Samuel F. B.
Morse, Benjamin Silliman, Noah Webster, John C. Calhoun, J.
Fenimore Cooper, James Kent, William M. Evarts, John Pierpont and
Samuel J. Tilden. The College buildings are of various ages and
styles of architecture, the original ones being the plain "Old Brick
Row" on College Street, northwest of the Public Green, behind which
what was formerly a large open space has been gradually covered
with more modern structures. The line of ancient buildings facing
the Green has a venerable and scholarly aspect, stretching broadly
across the greensward, fronted by noble elms arranged in quadruple
lines along the street. One of these houses, Connecticut Hall, was
built with money raised by a lottery, and from the proceeds of a
French prize-ship in the colonial wars, when Connecticut aided the
King by equipping a frigate. There are on the campus statues of the
first rector, Abraham Pierson, President Woolsey and Professor
Silliman. Various elaborate buildings are also upon adjacent grounds,
such as the Peabody Museum, the Sheffield Scientific School, of four
halls; the Divinity Halls, Observatory, Laboratory and Gymnasium,
while the entrance to the campus from the Public Green is by an
imposing tower-gateway known as Phelps Hall. The Peabody
Museum has one of the best natural-history collections in the
country, and the College Library approximates three hundred
thousand volumes. Besides the Academic Department, Yale has
schools of Science, Law, Medicine, Theology and the Fine Arts, and
its properties and endowments exceed $10,000,000, the grounds
occupying nine acres.

NEW HAVEN ATTRACTIONS.

But New Haven is much more than Yale College. It is a great hive of
industry, manufacturing all kinds of "Yankee notions," with
agricultural machinery, corsets, scales, organs, pianos, carriages,
hardware and other things, and it has a large commerce along the
coast and with the West Indies. It was to New Haven that the first
steamboat navigating Long Island Sound went from New York in
March, 1815, the Fulton, which occupied eleven hours in going
there, and fifteen hours in returning two days later, being delayed by
fog, subsequently, however, making the trip in less time. This boat
was constructed by Robert Fulton, and carried a figure-head of him
on her bow. She was one hundred and thirty-four feet long, and of
three hundred and twenty-seven tons, built with a keel like a ship,
having a sloop bow, and being rigged with one mast and sails to
accelerate her speed. She was managed by Elihu S. Bunker, and her
ability to pass through Hell Gate against a tide running six miles an
hour was regarded as one of the marvels of that time. The New York
Evening Post of March 25, 1815, describing her, said, "We have been
assured that this establishment has cost $90,000, and we believe it
may with truth be affirmed that there is not in the whole world such
accommodations afloat as the Fulton affords. Indeed, it is hardly
possible to conceive that anything of the kind can exceed her in
elegance and convenience." Many were the races she had with the
"packet-sloops" that plied on the Sound and often beat her, when
the wind was fair.
There are tastefully adorned suburbs surrounding New Haven, where
the hills afford charming prospects. The two great attractions,
however, are the bold and impressive promontories known as the
East and West Rocks, which are high buttresses of trap rock, lifting
themselves from the plain on each side of the town in magnificent
opposition, and rising four hundred feet. The geologists say they
were driven up through the other strata, and some people think
these grim precipices in remote ages may have sentinelled the
outflow of the Connecticut River, between their broad and solid
bases, to the Sound. Each tremendous cliff is the termination of a
long mountain range coming down from the far North. The Green
Mountain prolongation, stretching through ridges southward from
Vermont, is represented in the West Rock, while the East Rock
terminates the Mount Tom range, through which the Connecticut
River breaks its passage in Massachusetts, and part of which rises a
thousand feet in the "Blue Hills of Southington," which are the most
elevated portion of Connecticut. Thus projected out upon the plain,
almost to Long Island Sound, the summits of these two huge rocks
afford grand views. In the Judge's Cave, a small cleft in a group of
boulders on the West Rock, the three regicides, Goffe, Whalley and
Dixwell were in hiding for some time in 1661, and the three streets
leading out to this rock from the city are named after them. It is
recorded that a man living about a mile away took them food until
one night a catamount looked in on them, and "blazed his eyes in
such a frightful manner as greatly to terrify them." Dixwell's bones
repose upon the Public Green at the back of the "Centre Church,"
which stands in the row of three churches occupying the middle of
the Green that was the graveyard of colonial New Haven, and
Whalley is buried nearby.
There is a grand approach to the East Rock, which is elevated high
above the marshy valley of Mill River, winding about its base, and
upon the topmost crag is a noble monument reared to the soldiers
who fell in the Civil War. The whole surface of the East Rock is a
park, and upon the face of the cliff the perpendicular strata of
reddish-brown trap stand bolt upright. From this elevated outpost
there is a charming view over the town spreading upon the flat
plain, and the little harbor stretching down to the Sound; and
beyond, across the silvery waters, can be traced the hazy hills of
Long Island, twenty-five miles away. Two little crooked rivers come
out of the deep valleys on either side of the great rock, winding
through the town to the harbor, while all about, the country is dotted
with flourishing villages. Among them is Wallingford, to which the
railway leads northeast amid meadows and brickyards until it
reaches the high hill, whose church-towers watch over the
population, largely composed of plated-ware makers. When this
town was founded, John Davenport came out from New Haven and
preached the initial sermon from the appropriate text, "My beloved
hath a vineyard on a very fruitful hill."
Hillhouse Avenue, a broad and beautiful elm-shaded street bordered
by fine mansions, leads out to the "Sachem's Wood," which was the
home of the Hillhouses, of whom James Hillhouse was the great
Connecticut Senator after the Revolution. His remains repose in the
old Grove Street Burying-Ground, where rest many other famous
men of the Academic City, among them Timothy Dwight, Lyman
Beecher, Samuel F. B. Morse, Benjamin Silliman, Elbridge Gerry,
Roger Sherman, of whom Jefferson wrote that he "never said a
foolish thing in his life," Eli Whitney, and Noah Webster, who, before
he compiled his famous dictionary, had published the "Elementary
Spelling Book," which had a sale of fifty millions of copies. The New
Haven City Hall, fronting the Green, is one of the finest municipal
buildings in New England. The three churches occupying the centre
of the Green are the North, the Centre, and Trinity churches, the first
two Congregationalist and the last Episcopal, the row presenting a
curiously quaint and ancient appearance. The favorite resort of the
people of New Haven is Savin Rock, a promontory four miles away,
pushing a rocky front to the Sound at the end of a long sandy
beach, and having a good view, being located westward from the
harbor entrance.

OLD SAYBROOK.
The Connecticut River flows into Long Island Sound thirty-three
miles east of New Haven at Saybrook Point. Between is the
venerable village of Guilford, where Fitz Greene Halleck was born,
and where the three regicides were also for some time hidden. Out
in front is the bold and picturesque Sachem's Head, which got its
name from a tragedy of the Pequot War in 1637. The Mohican chief
Uncas pursued a Pequot warrior out on this point, and shooting him,
put his head in the fork of an oak tree, where it remained many
years. The group of Thimble Islands are off shore, having been
repeatedly dug over by deluded individuals searching for the buried
treasures of Captain Kidd. Saybrook Point was the place of earliest
settlement in Connecticut. The first English patent for lands on these
coasts was granted to Lord Saye and Seal and Lord Brooke, and the
colony was given their double name. The original settlement was
planned with great care, as it was expected to become the home of
noted men, and a fort was built on an isolated hill at the river's
mouth. According to the British historian, it was to Saybrook that
Cromwell, Pym, Hampden and Haselrig, with their party of
malcontents, intended to emigrate when they were stopped by the
order of King Charles I. Had this migration been made, it might have
greatly changed the subsequent momentous events in England
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