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About the Authors
Sally M. Jones is professor emeritus of accounting at the McIntire School of Commerce,
University of Virginia, where she taught undergraduate and graduate tax courses. Before
joining the Virginia faculty in 1992, Professor Jones spent 14 years on the faculty of the
Graduate School of Business, University of Texas at Austin. She received her undergradu-
ate degree from Augusta College, her MPA from the University of Texas, and her PhD
from the University of Houston. She is also a CPA. Professor Jones was the first editor
of Advances in Taxation (JAI Press) and the PriceWaterhouse Case Studies in Taxation.
She has published numerous articles in the Journal of Taxation, The Tax Adviser, and the
Journal of the American Taxation Association. Professor Jones is a frequent speaker at tax
conferences and symposia, a past president of the American Taxation Association, and the
2000 recipient of the Ray M. Sommerfeld Outstanding Tax Educator Award.
Principles of Taxation for Business and Investment students in the same way they trained their employees.
Planning is a unique approach to the subject of taxa- In doing so, they created a compliance-oriented para-
tion. This text is designed for use in introductory tax digm. In today’s world, this traditional paradigm is an
courses included in either undergraduate or graduate anachronism. Business students don’t need to learn
business programs. Its objective is to teach students to how to generate tax information. Instead, they must
recognize the major tax issues inherent in business and learn how to use tax information to make good busi-
financial transactions. The text focuses on fundamental ness and financial decisions.
concepts, the mastery of which provides a permanent
frame of reference for future study of advanced tax top- A Paradigm for the
ics. Unlike traditional introductory texts, Principles of
Taxation for Business and Investment Planning down- Introductory Tax Course
plays the technical detail that makes the study of taxa- Principles of Taxation for Business and Investment
tion such a nightmare for business students. Traditional Planning provides a paradigm for meeting the educa-
texts are heavily compliance oriented and convince tional needs of tax students in the 21st century. This
many students that the tax law is too complex and spe- paradigm is based on three postulates:
cialized to be relevant to their future careers. This text
attempts to do just the opposite by convincing students ∙ Postulate 1: Students should learn the tax law as
that an understanding of taxation is not only relevant an integrated component of a complex economic
but critical to their success in the business world. environment. They should be aware of the role
Principles of Taxation for Business and Investment taxes play in financial decision making and should
Planning has its origin in the 1989 White Paper titled understand how taxes motivate people and institu-
Perspectives on Education: Capabilities for Success tions to engage in certain transactions.
in the Accounting Profession, published jointly by the ∙ Postulate 2: Students should comprehend the tax
Big Eight public accounting firms. The White Paper law as an organic whole rather than as a frag-
expressed disenchantment with the narrow technical mented collection of rules and regulations. They
focus of undergraduate accounting curricula and called should learn general tax rules rather than the myr-
for scholastic emphasis on a broad set of business skills iad of exceptions that confuse rather than clarify
necessary for professional success. The Accounting the general rules. They should appreciate how the
Education Change Commission (AECC), operating general rules apply to all taxpaying entities before
under the aegis of the American Accounting Associa- they learn how specialized rules apply to only cer-
tion, embraced the philosophy reflected in the White tain entities. Finally, they should learn how the law
Paper. In September 1990, the AECC published its applies to broad categories of transactions rather
Position Statement No. One, titled Objectives of Edu- than to a particular transaction.
cation for Accountants. This statement reiterated that ∙ Postulate 3: Students who learn fundamen-
an undergraduate business education should provide a tal concepts have a permanent frame of refer-
base for lifelong learning. ence into which they can integrate the constant
Despite these calls for reform, many undergraduate changes in the technical minutiae of the law. The
tax courses are taught in a traditional manner based on rapid evolution of the tax law results in a short shelf
a paradigm developed a half-century ago. In the mod- life for much of the detailed information contained
ern (postwar) era of business education, the first gen- in undergraduate tax texts. Yet the key elements of
eration of tax teachers were practitioners: accountants the law—the statutory and judicial bedrock—do not
or attorneys hired as adjunct faculty to initiate students change with each new revenue act. Students who
into the mysteries of the newly enacted Internal Rev- master these key elements truly are prepared for a
enue Code of 1954. These practitioners taught their lifetime of learning.
viii
The authors know that traditional paradigms die coverage and which can be covered in less than a week.
hard and educational reform is difficult. Neverthe- Instructors may even decide to omit chapters that seem
less, we also believe that change in the way college less relevant to the educational needs of their students.
and university professors teach tax is both inevitable Business students who complete a one-semester course
and worthwhile. Our responsibility to our students is to based on this text will be well prepared to function in
prepare them to cope in a business world with little tol- the modern tax environment. If they are required (or
erance for outdated skills or irrelevant knowledge. Our may elect) to take a second tax course, they will have a
hope is that Principles of Taxation for Business and solid, theoretical foundation on which to build.
Investment Planning is a tool that can help us fulfill This is the twentieth annual edition of Principles of
that responsibility. Taxation for Business and Investment Planning. Adopt-
ers of the text will certainly have many excellent sug-
Using This Text in a First- gestions to improve the next edition. We welcome any
and all comments and encourage fellow teachers to
Semester Tax Course e-mail us with their input (smj7q@virginia.edu, shelley
Principles of Taxation for Business and Invest- .rhoades@villanova.edu, and s.callaghan@tcu.edu).
ment Planning is designed for use in a one-semester Sally M. Jones
(15-week) introductory tax course. Instructors can
Shelley C. Rhoades-Catanach
choose which of the 18 chapters deserve a full week’s
Sandra R. Callaghan
ix
Changes in Principles
of Taxation, 2017 edition
Chapter 1
- Added five new Application Problems.
Chapter 2
- Updated federal deficit and national debt data on page 25.
- Updated data in example on page 39.
- Added five new Application Problems.
Chapter 3
- Added new Learning Objective 3-1.
- Added five new Application Problems.
Chapter 4
- Added five new Application Problems.
Chapter 5
- Added five new Application Problems.
- Added discussion of IRS Publications and their status as secondary authority on
pages 101 and 102.
Chapter 6
- Added five new Application Problems.
Chapter 7
- Added five new Application Problems.
- Added new Tax Talk on page 174.
- Updated passenger automobile limitations on page 181.
- Updated for law changes related to the Section 179 deduction on pages 182 and 183.
- Updated for law changes related to bonus depreciation on pages 184 and 185.
Chapter 8
- Added five new Application Problems.
Chapter 9
- Added five new Application Problems.
Chapter 10
- Added five new Application Problems.
- Updated Schedule C, Form 1065, Form 1120-S, and Schedule K-1s to 2015 versions.
x
Changes in Principles of Taxation, 2017 edition xi
Chapter 11
- Added five new Application Problems.
- Updated filing statistics in Tax Talks throughout.
- Updated Form 1120 and Schedule M-3 to 2015 versions.
- Revised discussion of Tax Freedom Day on page 344 to reflect current statistics.
Chapter 12
- Added five new Application Problems.
- Updated filing statistics in Tax Talk on page 368.
Chapter 13
- Added five new Application Problems.
Chapter 14
- Revised and expanded Learning Objectives.
- Updated coverage of standard deduction, exemption amount, individual tax rates, earned
income credit, and alternative minimum tax to reflect 2015 inflation adjustments.
- Updated Volpe family examples throughout chapter to include 2014 Form 1040 (pages 1
and 2 and Schedule A).
- Reordered subtopics under Computing Individual Tax beginning on page 435.
- Updated Itemized Deduction Worksheet and Exemption Amount Worksheet to reflect
2015 inflation adjustments.
- Added four new Application Problems and one Tax Planning Case.
Chapter 15
- Added two new Tax Talks on pages 471 and 479.
- Updated examples on pages 461 and 462 to include 2015 Form W-2 and Form
1099-MISC.
- Updated coverage of Employer-Provided Plans beginning on page 478 to reflect 2016
inflation adjustments.
- Updated coverage of Individual Retirement Accounts beginning on page 483 to reflect
2016 inflation adjustments.
- Expanded discussion of rollovers to IRAs beginning on page 488.
- Added five new Application Problems.
Chapter 16
- Added new Tax Talk on page 533.
- Updated Exhibits 16.1, 16.2, and 16.3 to include 2015 Form 1040, Schedule B,
Schedule D, and Schedule E.
- Updated coverage of the gift and estate taxes beginning on page 529 to reflect
2016 inflation adjustments to annual gift tax exclusion and lifetime transfer tax
exclusion.
- Revised Appendix 16–A to include 2015 Form 8949 and Form 1040, Schedule D.
- Added five new Application Problems.
xii Changes in Principles of Taxation, 2017 edition
Chapter 17
- Added new Tax Talk on page 554.
- Added five new Application Problems.
Chapter 18
- Added new Tax Talk on page 599.
- Updated and expanded audit coverage discussion in example on page 589.
- Added five new Application Problems.
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xv
Part Three focuses on the quantification of business
taxable income. Chapter 6 covers the computation of
PART THREE
income or loss from ongoing commercial activities, with The Measurement of Taxable Income
special emphasis on differences between taxable income
and net income for financial statement purposes. Chapters 6. Taxable Income from Business Operations 125
7 and 8 explore the tax implications of acquisitions and
7. Property Acquisitions and Cost Recovery Deductions 165
dispositions of business property, while Chapter 9 is
devoted to nontaxable exchanges. 8. Property Dispositions 209
9. Nontaxable Exchanges 251
xvi
Chapter Four
Key Learning Tools
Maxims of Income Confirming Pages
Objectives shift
LO 4-1. Describe theactually increases
difference Entitytax
between H’savoidance
cash outflow bytax
and $49. Entity H would never agree to this
evasion.
strategy unless it derives some indirect economic benefit from the tax savings.
LO 4-2. Explain why an income shift or a deduction shift from one entity to another
The chapters begin with Constraints
can affect onflows.
after-tax cash Income Shifting
Because income-shifting transactions involve transfers of value from one party to another,
learning objectives that LO 4-3. Explain how the assignment of income doctrine constrains income-shifting
they usually occur between related parties. After the income shift, the parties in the aggre-
strategies.
preview the technical gate are financially better off by the tax savings from the transaction. Congress has long
recognized
LO 4-4. Determine that income-shifting
the effect techniques
on after-tax cash flows oflose revenue
deferral of afor thecost.
tax Treasury. Many effective
content and alert students techniques that were once widely used by related parties have been abolished by legisla-
LO 4-5. Discusstion;
whyinthe jurisdiction in which a business operates affects after-tax cash restrictions
to the important concepts subsequent chapters, we will consider a number of powerful statutory
flows. on income shifting. The IRS is vigilant in policing related party transactions involving
to be mastered. These beneficial
LO 4-6. Contrast the tax income shifts.
character If a transaction
of ordinary serves
income, no genuine
capital purpose
gain, and besides tax avoidance,
tax-exempt
objectives appear again the IRS may disallow the tax consequences intended by the parties.
income.
as marginal notations Assignment
LO 4-7. Distinguish betweenofan
Income
explicitDoctrine
tax and an implicit tax.
marking the place in LO 4-3 The federal courts have consistently held that our income tax system cannot tolerate artifi-
LO 4-8. Summarize the four tax planning maxims.
Explain how the cial shifts of income from one taxpayer to another. Over 80 years ago, the Supreme Court
the chapter where each assignmentLOof4-9.
income decided
Describe thatdoctrines
the legal income must
thatbe
thetaxed to thetoperson
IRS uses who tax
challenge earns it, even strategies.
planning if another person has a
doctrine constrains
learning objective is income-shifting
legal right to the wealth represented by the income.5 Thus, a business owner who receives
strategies. a $10,000 check in payment for services rendered to a client can’t avoid reporting $10,000
addressed. income by simply endorsing the check over to his daughter. Confirming In the picturesque Pageslanguage of
In Chapter 3, wethe learned
Court,that
the the concept
tax law mustof net present
disregard value (NPV)
arrangements “byplays
whicha thekeyfruits
role in arethe
attributed to a
business decision-making
different tree process
from thatandon that the computation
which they grew.” of NPV incorporates tax costs
as cash outflows and Thetax savingsCourt
Supreme as cash inflows.on
elaborated With
thisthese
themelessons in mind,
in the case we begin
of a father whothis detached nego-
chapter by defining tiabletax planning
interest coupons as the
fromstructuring
corporateof transactions
bonds and gavetothe reduce
coupons tax tocostshis or
son as a gift.6
increase tax savings Whentothe maximize
couponsthe NPV ofthe
matured, thesontransaction.
collected the interest and reported it as income on
Why does thehisstructure
own taxof a transaction
return. The Court matter in the that
concluded tax planning 4 process?
the interest incomeofSpecifically,
was taxable to the father
Examples
Chapter Maxims Income Tax Planning 85
what are the variables
becausethat determinetothe
he continued taxthe
own outcome
underlyingof the transaction?
asset (the bonds)These questions
that created the right to the
are addressed ininterestthe first section The
payments. of the chapter.
holdings in Our
thesestudy of thehave
two cases variables
melded leads
into the
Confirming to Pages
the
assignment of
Issue Recognition
Problems
Chapter 4 Maxims of Income Tax Planning 95
and to state those issues as questions. LO 4-1 1. Dr. P is a physician with his own medical practice. For the last several years, his mar-
ginal income tax rate has been 39.6 percent. Dr. P’s daughter, who is a college student,
The technical issues buried in these has no taxable income. During the last two months of the year, Dr. P instructs his
problems typically are not discussed patients to remit their payments for his services directly to his daughter.
2. Mr. and Mrs. K own rental property that generates $4,000 monthly revenue. The couple is
in the chapter. Consequently, students LO 4-1
in the highest marginal tax bracket. For Christmas, Mr. and Mrs. K give the uncashed rent
must rely on their understanding of checks for October, November, and December to their 19-year-old grandson as a gift.
basic principles to analyze the problem, LO 4-4 3. Mrs. Y owns 1,800 shares of Acme common stock, which she purchased for $10 per
share in 2002. In October, she decides to sell her Acme stock for the market price of
spot the tax concern or opportunity, and $27 per share, the highest price at which the stock has traded in the last 22 months. A
formulate the question to be resolved. friend advises her to hold the Acme stock until next January so that her gain from the
sale will be taxed next year rather than this year. Confirming Pages
In short, students must take the first LO 4-5 4. Company QP must decide whether to build a new manufacturing plant in Country B
steps in the tax research process. or Country C. Country B has no income tax. However, its political regime is unstable
and its currency has been devalued four times in three years. Country C has both a
20 percent income tax and a stable democratic government.
Research Problems
LO 4-7 5. Mr. and Mrs. TR own an investment Chapteryielding
6 Taxablea Income
4.25 from
percent after-tax
Business Operationsreturn.
163 Their
friend Ms. K is encouraging them to sell this investment and invest the proceeds in her
business, Problems
Research which takes advantage of several favorable tax preferences. Consequently,
Ms. K’s after-tax return from this business is 7 percent.
Provide further opportunity for LO 6-1, 6-6 1. Bontaine Publications, an accrual basis, calendar year corporation, publishes and
6. sells
Firmweekly
Z is considering implementing
LO 4-8 and monthly magazines to aretail
long-term
bookstorestax strategy to accelerate
and newsstands. the deduc-
The sales
students to develop their analytic tion of certain
agreement provides business expenses.
that the retailers mayThereturnstrategy
any unsold hasmagazines
an opportunity
during thecost
one-because
it decreases
period before-tax cashBontaine
flows, butwill the taxone-half
savingsoffrom the strategypriceshould be
skills. These problems consist of short month
greater
each returned
after purchase.
than magazine.
this opportunity cost. The 2016,
During December
refund
strategy is aggressive,
Bontaine
the purchase
and the IRS
recorded $919,400
of
might dis-
of mag-
scenarios that suggest one or more allowsales.
azine the intended tax outcome
During January if it audits
2017, Bontaine Firm Z’s
refunded tax returns.
$82,717 to retailers that returned
pay the tax without penalty. Moleri paid its 2016 property tax of $29,820 on March 11,
1. Firm NS Problems
owns 90 percent of Corporation T’s outstanding stock. NS also owns busi-
LO 9-8
Research
2016. How much of this tax payment is deductible on Moleri’s tax return for the fiscal
Give students an opportunity to integrate nessending
1. year
Using
realtyJuly
that T needs for use in its business. The FMV of the realty is $4 million,
31, 2016? such as Checkpoint, CCH Internet Tax Research NetWork,
an electronic
adjustedlibrary
LO 4-1
and NS’s basis is $5.6 million. Both NS and T are in the 35 percent marginal
their tax knowledge into a business LO 6-6, 6-9 or LexisNexis,
4. Jetex, an accrual find
basis,a calendar
federal tax
yearcase in whichengages
corporation, the taxpayer is foundofguilty
in the business long- of tax
tax bracket. Discuss the tax implications of each of the following courses of action,
distance freight hauling. Every year, Jetex is required to purchase several hundred
planning framework. Most cases involve and decide
permits which course
and licenses youand
from state would
localrecommend
governments to in NS.
order to legally operate
taxpayers who must decide whether its NS could
a. fleet exchange
of trucks. Duringthe realty
2016, thefor newly
cost issued
of these shares
permits of licenses
and T stock totaled
worth $4 million.
$1,119,200. Even
sellthough none to
of the permits and licenses
cash. was valid for more than
to undertake a certain transaction or b. NS could the realty T for $4 million
12 months, a substantial number of them didn’t expire until sometime in 2017.
NS Jetex
Inc.fact, couldcalculated
lease thethat
realty to T for
of its
theannual fairincurred
rental value of actually
$600,000.
who must choose between alternative $612,000 total cost in 2016
LO 9-5 2. benefited
Firm K,the a noncorporate
company in 2017. taxpayer, has owned
For financial statementinvestment
purposes, land
Jetex with a $600,000 basis
capitalized
transactions. Students must assume the jon72420_ch04_073-096.indd 95 this
for amount as anTwo
four years. assetunrelated
and expensed onlywant
parties the $507,200
to acquire remainder
the landonfrom
its 02/03/16
2016
K. Party
11:58 AMA has
income statement. As an accrual basis taxpayer, is Jetex limited to a $507,200
role of tax adviser by recommending a offered $770,000 cash, and Party B has offered another tract of land with a $725,000
deduction in 2016?
FMV. If K accepts Party B’s offer, it would hold the new land for no more than two
course of action to maximize the after- years before selling it. The FMV of this land should appreciate 10 percent annu-
tax value of the transaction. ally. K’s tax rate on capital gain is 15 percent, and it uses a 7 percent discount
TaxratePlanning Cases
to compute NPV. Which offer should K accept to maximize the NPV of the
LO 6-5 1. Company Y began business in February 2016. By the end of the calendar year, it had
transaction? xix
billed its clients for $3.5 million of services and had incurred $800,000 of operating
LO 9-2, 9-5 3. expenses.
This year, Corporation
As of December 31,EFit decides to replace
had collected old, ofoutmoded
$2.9 million its billings business
and had equipment
(adjusted
paid $670,000 basis
of its$50,000)
expenses.with new,toimproved
It expects collect theequipment. The corporation
remaining outstanding bills has two
options:
and pay the remaining expenses by March 2017. Company Y adopted a calendar year
for
∙ federal
Sell thetax old
purposes. It may use
equipment for either the cash
$120,000 method
cash or thethe
and use accrual
cash method of
to purchase the new
equipment. This option has no transaction cost.
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man, whanged him on the head with the butt end, and was evidently intending to shoot. It was a
horrible moment, but the man pleaded, others intervened, and the man was led away. Everyone's
nerves were overwrought, and suffering and discomfort were so universal, that I don't believe that
one death, more or less, would have seemed a great thing to those who were watching.
But once across the bridge, and on the tramp, all was again silent, except for the monotonous and
automatic cries of the drivers to their oxen: "Terrai! Chovai! Ide! Napred!" The route all day was
roadless, through sloughs of mud, and unbroken scrub, and over boulders, and everywhere it was
strewn with the dead bodies of oxen and of horses.
At dusk we outspanned for the night, in the snow, at the top of a hill, near an Arnaut village. We had
now, presumably, made up for the time lost at Prishtina, and rest for the animals was imperative.
Captain W. supped with us.
We were away again by 6 o'clock next morning (Saturday, November 27th). We ate mealie porridge
at 5.30, as it was impossible to stop for food during the day, and it was good to have some physical
basis of energy. This meant an hour's less rest for me and for the cook (now, in the temporary
absence of Mrs. Dawn, Demetrius, the soldier man). But it was worth the effort. We trekked, this
day, first through an Arnaut village; the houses were one-storied, mostly of stone, as protection from
enemies and from Serbian vendettas, and, indeed, they were so substantially built that only cannons
could have dislodged the inhabitants; and then we came into a vortex of columns converging on all
sides from their various encampments.
One officer (a doctor) told me that he had been blocked with his column at that spot during two
days, and it was now seven days since he had left Prishtina. We got into line behind the guns, which
soon, however, got ahead of us, as they were horse-drawn, and at a narrow bridge we were again
blocked for hours. Thenceforward there were no roads, only tracks over fields and through scrub of
Turkey oak, and mud incredible; and another of our riding horses collapsed.
The view, as we neared the snow-covered mountains, of which Petch was at the base, was
magnificent. We encamped at dusk, on the slope of a hill, in the valley. Captain W. had supper with
us. During the day, to my relief, Vooitch reappeared; he had left the motor party safely ensconced at
Petch, and I was thankful to have his help again and to know that the others had arrived.
At 6 a.m. Sunday, November 28th (Advent Sunday), we were on the march. As usual now, there
were no roads; we scrambled and stumbled over ploughed fields and every variety of rough country,
but there was less block, because, as there was no road, we could choose our track. Hard frost, too,
helped to make swamps more manageable. We had to abandon another wagon, because the oxen
were growing weaker, and the kitchen wagon needed extra help.
The worst block of that day, after the start, occurred at the end of the day. I had scrambled through
a hedge, in advance of the blocked column, and, with Vooitch, had chosen as camping site a grass
space, partially sheltered from the icy wind by the wall of an Arnaut village. When we returned to
the hedge we found that the Bakers' Column had intercepted ours, and refused to let our wagons
pass. They said this was in revenge for their having been forced, by another officer, to let us pass
them earlier in the day. When our men eventually got through, they were so angry at having been
kept for an additional hour from fire and supper, that when they got through the hedge, they placed
their wagons close under the hedge, instead of coming across to the other side of the enclosure,
where I was awaiting them and keeping the ground from other columns. So, with fierce eye flaming,
I stalked across to them, through intervening convoys, and told them to come at once. They said
that they had already outspanned their oxen and lighted their fires. Full of wrath, I kicked their fires
out, with my impellent boots, and gave the order to inspan and to follow me at once. They came
meekly, and were soon glad of the shelter of the wall. How could I help loving these men? For they
never sulked or bore malice when they had to do things they didn't like; perhaps they remembered
that we, also, were doing things which we didn't like, for their sakes.
That evening I had the good fortune to be able to buy, for 90 dinars, a pony to replace my horse,
which was exhausted. We took the latter with us to Scutari, but it was never again ridden on trek.
In the evening a rumour came that the town crier at Petch, was crying that the Russians had been
victorious in Galicia, and that the Germans were leaving Serbia. It was also rumoured that we might
be ordered back to Mitrovitza. And much as the men wanted to return to Serbia, they all shouted in
chorus, "Never again along that Prishtina road."
J. G. and Mr. Little and I slept in the wagons that night. We were up at five next morning (Monday,
November 29th), and when we were starting, the local Prefect came up and said he had only just
heard that we were here, or he would have invited us to his house for the night. He made a
charming speech of appreciation of our work, and asked me to come and drink a glass of new milk
at his house. I had not time to dismount, but I shall never forget that drink of milk. It was half
cream, and the daughter of the house warmed it. I had not realised, till I found myself gulping like a
greedy puppy, that we had lately not been overfed. I called the other two, and they also had a gulp.
The cold was horrible all day, and the route was worse than ever: over hedges, ditches, rivers, bogs,
ploughed fields and slippery ice, all the way to Petch, which we reached at 4 p.m. Major A. and his
column, with hundreds of others, were encamped on the bare, frozen marshes outside the town,
and he suggested that we, too, had better stop on this side of the town. But it was a bad place for a
camp, no wood for fires, or shelter from the icy wind, and the ground was a swamp. Our cars were
on the other side of the town, near a monastery, and that sounded very hopeful and peaceful. I was
told that we should not be allowed to go through the town, but we risked it and got through. I found
that the doctors and nurses and their cars were inside the monastery walls; the other cars, with the
remainder of the staff, were outside, beside a stream. On the other side of the stream we placed the
column. There was no wood available, in or around Petch. A Serbian soldier would sell his soul for
firewood, as our Tommies would for a long drink, and I had to consent that one of our wagons, the
most dilapidated, should be cut up, in order that the men might make their magic fire circles, and,
whilst sitting round them, dream of past and future, and forget the present. The continuous strain
and lack of food were exhausting the oxen. Every day now loads had to be readjusted, and if there
was one wagon less, the men would be helped.
It was pleasant to be welcomed "home" again by the staff after a separation of six days. We took up
quarters near the wagons outside the monastery. Doctor May and the unit from Kragujevatz, who
had all been obliged to evacuate the Stobart Hospital, by order of the military authorities, were now,
I heard, in the town on their way to England, so I went to see them, and I found that Doctor Curcin,
who had at Kragujevatz been officially responsible for the welfare of foreign units, was in charge of
the party, and that all arrangements had been made for their journey with ponies to the coast. They
were returning to England as quickly as possible, and it was now decided that the two doctors of our
Serbian-English Field Hospital, two nurses and three chauffeurs should go home with the Curcin
party. I could not guarantee that I should return to London immediately. I was pledged to the Army
and to the column as long as my services were needed, and I could not yet foresee what might be
required of me, and it seemed wise that those who wished to make sure of being in London before
Christmas, should take the opportunity of Doctor Curcin's escort. We helped them to buy ponies, and
they left Petch on December 1st, for Andreavitza and Podgoritza.
CHAPTER XXXIV
The cold that first night at Petch was intense, and in the morning we couldn't put on our boots till
we had unfrozen them at the fires. In the morning (Tuesday, November 30th) I went into the old
Turkish town, picturesque with mosques and narrow streets, to get orders, on the telephone, from
the P.M.O. I was told to do whatever was done by the Fourth Field Hospital. They were out on the
frozen swamp, so I sent an orderly and told him to report their movements. In the meantime, as my
hands when I was riding were generally frozen, I tried to buy some warm gloves, for though shops
were all shuttered, and their owners had for the most part gone, it was possible here and there still
to buy a few odds and ends, if you knew where to go. But there were no gloves to be had, so I
bought a pair of short white woollen socks to wear as gloves. A clumsy, but on the whole a useful
contrivance.
On Wednesday, December 1st, we had received no order to move. I went into the town to see the
Kragujevatz party start on their long mountain walk, and I took possession of a couple of rooms
vacated by them, for kitchen and for dining and sleeping-room. The only available site for the
column was in an old Turkish graveyard, close to the house. This house, which was near the
headquarters of the Montenegrin police, belonged to a Montenegrin man, who was not at home
when we arrived. I wanted to take down his fence at the back of the house, as it enclosed a grass
space convenient for the cars, and I asked the police if I might do this. They said perhaps I had
better wait till the owner returned in the afternoon. About three o'clock, a tall, dark, heavily-built
man, looking like the villain in penny novelettes, appeared; he had been in America, and spoke a
very little and very bad English. Serbians in America pick up marvellously little English. We met many
who, though they had been years in the United States, could not make themselves intelligible in our
tongue. Our friend said he was sorry to be late, but that he had only this minute come out of gaol.
"Ah, yes," I said, as though that was the place from which one naturally expected one's friends to be
arriving, "and what business took you there?" "Oh!" carelessly, "I just killed a nozzer fellow here,"
and he pointed to his own doorstep. It seemed that his wife and the "nozzer" fellow had been on too
familiar terms, and our Montenegrin giant had taken the law into his own hands, and had promptly
rid himself of the enemy. He had not yet been tried, though he had been in prison for ten months
and three days. But now, as Petch was being evacuated, all prisoners were set free, to escape as
best they could. He gave us permission to destroy his fence. As the moral fence around his home
had already been destroyed, the wooden fence must have seemed of small importance; besides, his
house would soon be in the hands of the Germans, and nothing could have seemed of much
consequence now except his freedom. He was lame, he had no money, and his horse was too small
to carry him, so he asked if we would let him go with us over the mountains to the coast, and if we
would let him ride our biggest horse in exchange for his pony. He must, otherwise, he said, be
captured by the enemy. We couldn't let him be taken prisoner again, and as he said he knew all the
Montenegrin roads and might be useful, we let him come with us. He came, but he didn't know the
tracks, and if ever I asked his judgment as to direction, he was invariably wrong. But he was kindly
and harmless, and we took him as far as Podgoritza.
In the street at Petch, I met our P.M.O., who was on his way to see me. He gave me the cheerful
information that henceforth the roads would not be good. With remembrance of the road between
Prishtina and Petch, still in my mind, I laughed. The P.M.O. smiled grimly, and said, yes, the roads
would be even worse now, and I must at once cut our four-wheeled wagons in half, and make of
them two-wheeled carts; I had better see how the Fourth Field Hospital were doing this, and do the
same. Then he told me that he and Headquarters were very pleased with us, that we had done well
in difficult circumstances, and he referred, with congratulations, to the fact that we had had no
deserters, a trouble which had befallen other columns. He was glad, he said, that having come
through so much, we were still sticking to the work. His kind words cheered me very much, for
having had no previous experience of this kind of work, I didn't know if I had been doing all that
was expected of me.
We were now, he said, to start to-night, or at daybreak to-morrow, with our two-wheeled carts, for
Scutari, near the coast of Albania. The route was to be via Roshai, Berani, Andreavitza, and
Podgoritza.
Thursday, December 2nd, was a busy day; the first job was to cut the wagons in half; the back
portion would be left behind, and we should carry on with the front portion. It was difficult to
procure saws, especially as some of the wagons belonged to the drivers, and they were not anxious
to cut them up. "Nema" and "ne moshe" ("There is none" and "not possible") lurked ominously
amongst the tomb-stones, but fierce-eye prevailed. Then came the sad business of sorting hospital
material, for, as half a wagon is only half as large as a whole wagon, half the hospital material must
be left behind, (we gave it to a hospital in Petch), also most of the equipment, and the tents, except
one bell tent, to which we clung in case of desperate weather at night.
We guessed that it might be possible that even the two-wheeled carts would not be able to continue
to Scutari, so we set to work to buy ponies, upon which to pack food and kit, in case the carts must
be abandoned. Jordan, Colson, and Vooitch cleverly managed to find a dozen ponies, in various
stages of decay; these were subsequently our salvation. But they must be rough-shod, or they would
be useless in the ice and snow, and there were no blacksmiths left in Petch. Nearly everyone had
now gone, and the town was deserted except by the passing soldiers and fugitives. But this difficulty,
too, was overcome by the triumvirate. It was also important to procure a store of food. We tried in
vain to find tinned foods, and we only had a few Serbian meats left; but we luckily found some of
our precious mealie meal, also a little rice and a few beans, and we carried these in sacks, and these
three things ultimately saved us from starvation.
At dusk, when I went again to the cemetery to superintend the packing of the two-wheeled carts, I
found a murky atmosphere. A Turkish graveyard is, under any circumstances, a melancholy place.
The ground is uncultivated, and rough, cuneiform stones, a couple of feet in height, are strewn pell-
mell to mark the graves. In this cemetery every yard of ground was covered with disembowelled
animals, dung, broken carts, and refuse from past encampments. The night was, as usual, pitchy
dark, and it was raining heavily as I stumbled over graves, and carcases, and horrors of all kinds, to
find the men, guided only by their camp fires.
I arrived at a moment of excitement. One of our drivers had just let off his rifle, whether accidentally
or not, I never discovered, and he had nearly killed an officer who was passing. The officer was a
little upset, and was now in a loud voice threatening to punish our man. But I invented an
explanation for the incident, and expressed regret, and the officer, who was luckily otherwise
preoccupied, agreed to forgive the driver.
But our men were in sulky mood. Was it a wonder? For they were now face to face with the
mountains of Montenegro, which would henceforth lie between them and all they loved on earth.
And now this man said he couldn't take more than one package in his cart, and another couldn't
take anything: "Nema, ne moshe; nema, ne moshe" met me at every turn. The situation must be
tackled; so I called the men together, round one of the camp fires, that I might see their faces. I told
them how much I sympathised with them in having now to leave their country behind, and to make
this journey over the mountains, into a strange land; the situation was bad, but they wouldn't make
it better by bad behaviour; two "bads" did not make a "good." Prudence, as well as patriotism,
required that they should go forward. If they attempted now to return to their homes, they would be
imprisoned, or starved, or shot. It was only the spirit of Serbia which could some day reconquer
Serbia, and they, the Serbian Army, were the guardians of that spirit. Up to now they had a splendid
record of behaviour; would they not keep it unsullied to the end? Then the personal touch. Was my
task an easy one? Did they wish to make it more difficult? Had I not come from afar to help their
country, and would they be less patriotic than the stranger from another land? Had I not shared with
them—Before I could say more, my voice was drowned in a chorus of "Ja! Ja! Maika! Ja! Ja! And
don't you know that ours is the only column that has lost no men from desertion? Ja! Ja! Maika! It is
hard, but we won't grumble."
And content was restored. I told them all to bring tins, or paper, for some extra rations of tea and
coffee, for the trek, and the naughty mood of these impressionable, child-like, affectionate peasant
soldiers was put away.
CHAPTER XXXV
We were up at 3.30 the next morning, Friday, December 3rd, to pack the ponies and get ready to
start at daybreak. We must now leave our much-loved and faithful cars behind; we gave them to the
Prefect, with instructions that he must burn them if the enemy arrived. We should badly miss their
sleeping accommodation, but for me personally it was one anxiety the less. Possessions are at the
root of all anxiety.
At 6.30 a.m. our reduced column, with its deformed carts, set out through the narrow streets of
Petch, to be swallowed up in the great mountains; these already seemed ashamed of what they had
in store for us, and were hiding behind thick mists of cloud and rain. Nothing was visible except the
endless stream of two-wheeled carts, oxen, horses and soldiers, behind us and ahead of us. The
road that day was not worse than usual, and we encamped at dark in a tiny but dry field, behind a
farmhouse in which Headquarters Staff were spending the night. The P.M.O. came and had a talk
with us, and said we were to move on at one next morning. That was the last time we saw or heard
of Headquarters Staff till we reached Scutari.
We departed soon after 1 a.m., December 4th, and in a quarter of an hour, we arrived at a block,
which, in the darkness, seemed to be composed of all the carts and oxen and soldiers of the
universe—apparently on an open plain. It was too dark to see what lay ahead, blocking progress,
and no one knew anything, except that movement was impossible. So we lit fires and sat around
them till daylight at 6.30, when we had coffee, and moved with the multitude, a few hundred yards.
But we were at once again hopelessly blocked. Then suddenly appeared, for a few minutes, our old
friend, the cheery Artillery Major, who had just performed the heartrending task of destroying his
three batteries. What were our little discomforts, in comparison with the grief which this keen officer
and patriot must have suffered, in the destruction of his beloved guns—the last defences of his
country?
We took advantage of the halt to send the drivers for hay for the oxen and horses, and we
outspanned for two hours. The snow was now melting under a hot sun, and making a miry slush,
which was not warming for the feet; but by the time we had procured hay, it was daylight, and as
we could then see that there was no road, there seemed to be no object in waiting, so we wriggled
out of the chaos of other columns, and took a track of our own—an awful track over rocks, and
scrub, and amazing mud, but in the right direction; and at night we bivouacked on the slopes of a
wood, overlooking plains and mountains which lay in the direction of Macedonia.
We could see the shrapnel fire, and hear the mountain guns close to us all the evening. In deep
ravines in the track in front of us, lay dead horses and oxen and broken carts. At daybreak I took an
excursion, on foot, with Vooitch, to inspect the route ahead of us, and it seemed impossible that
carts could travel on it; the spaces between the maze of ravines, twelve feet deep, were, in places,
only two or three feet broad. And, indeed, no carts were now visible, only pack ponies, and oxen
with blankets strapped upon them. I was wondering what was to happen; but I had determined to
make the start with carts, as I had received no order to leave them behind, when a message came
from an officer in charge of the way, to say that we were to abandon wheels, and continue as best
we could, with any ponies we might have had the prevision to buy at Petch. How thankful we were
that we had bought some; we could otherwise have carried no food or blankets. Our oxen were now
reduced to thirty-two. They could carry nothing, but they must, of course, go with us, and be saved
if possible.
There was no time for sentiment; we were obliged to harden our hearts, and burn or otherwise
destroy the carts.
The abandonment of carts, meant the abandonment of our beautiful hospital material and camp
equipment; all our treasures must be left upon the ground. But I determined to save the
instruments, and to carry them with us at whatever trouble they might cost us; they were valuable
and belonged to the Serbian equipment. But, to my horror, the man in charge of them, had taken
upon himself to loot the box, and had already begun distributing the knives, and other useful
implements, amongst his friends. I was just in time to save them. I wrathfully made the man return
the instruments. I then took them out of their box, which was heavy, and placed them in my own
brown canvas rug bag, to be carried with my personal goods, instead of something else, which I left
behind. But, notwithstanding this precaution, they were, to my great disappointment, stolen on the
way.
We were now about to start upon a more difficult and uncomfortable phase of the journey, and the
men would need heartening. At daybreak I called them together, and as I stood on a tree stump, at
the edge of the wood, facing the plain and the mountains of Macedonia, the men came up and
grouped themselves, in the grey light, in a half circle. "Dobrdan!" ("Good morning!") "Maika,
dobrdan, dobrdan!" The sun rose blood-red over the mountains as I spoke. We must now, I said, be
prepared to meet discomforts and difficulties; but though we were abandoning much, we could, and
we must, take with us, goodwill and a courageous spirit; these would be of more use to Serbia, than
the ointments and bandages which we were leaving behind. And now, if any man wanted to turn
homewards, and risk being shot by the Germans, the Austrians, the Bulgars, or the Arnauts, he had
better go now, at once, and save us from the trouble of feeding him over the mountains. Those who
wanted to stay, and be loyal to their column, their Army, and their nation, could put up their hands.
And every hand went up, with a shout of loyalty, and determination to keep together to the end.
Our British chauffeurs, William and Jordan, also the Serbian Ilia, and Vooitch, now adapted
themselves finely to the new task of packing loads for the ponies' packs. We had only been able to
procure one pack saddle, and all the other loads, containing food and blankets, we tied to the
horses' backs, with string and cord, which we had brought with us. At 11.30 a.m. we turned our
backs on the ruins of our column—burnt and broken carts, beds, tents, personal clothes, and, worst
of all, surgical boxes and hospital equipment. Our bivouac looked as though burglars had been
interrupted in looting operations, and in their flight, had left the ground strewn with the spoils.
Good-bye to our hospitable field-kitchen and all its useful appurtenances; good-bye to tents and
beds and the last relics of comfort; good-bye to all hope of hospital work; and, worst of all, good-
bye to all hope of rescue for Serbia.
For now, all hope of help from the Allies had vanished, and the intensity of the tragedy to the
Serbian nation was revealed. The journey which we were then about to take—on foot—over the
mountains of Montenegro, and Albania, to the coast, is now, for thousands of human beings, a
memory of mental and physical suffering, which will cause life henceforth to be seen through
darkened spectacles.
CHAPTER XXXVI
Into the land of Montenegro, the land of the Black Mountains, which already threatened precipitously
to bar our way, we must now force an entrance. Our first path, about two feet wide, ran through a
thick wood; I went first, and led my horse, for, though there were plenty of men to lead it, I guessed
that I should better be able to sympathise with the difficulties of the road, if I had to overcome them
first myself; and I wished to choose the route. Colson, Jordan, Vooitch, George, and Ilia also each
led a pony, and the Serbian men led the others, and the oxen. Our skeleton column was followed by
other skeleton columns, and during all that day we tramped and splashed, and slipped, and
scrambled, over rocks, and through scrub, in mud, and over slopes of ice and snow—a route
impossible for carts.
Roads had now ceased, and even the tracks were only those which had been trampled by the
multitudes in front of us; over passes 5,000 feet high; between mountains 8,000 feet high; through
snow, ice, boulders, unbroken forest, mud-holes, bridgeless rivers. And always those pitiless
mountains glaring at the tragedy; mountains with steep, snow-covered slopes, or mountains of grey,
bare rock, precipitous, shutting out, for thousands, all hope of return to home and nationhood.
It would be impossible now to trek at night, and at dusk, I noticed ahead of us, a mountain slope
covered with trees, which would give us partial shelter from the cold wind. Only another half hour's
scramble, down a steep incline, in a thick wood, and rest, and fire, and supper would reward us. The
last 100 yards of descent were precipitous, and at the top, my horse and I slipped on the ice, and
we rolled together to the bottom. We picked ourselves up, shook ourselves, looked at each other—I
was still holding the reins—and walked on. There was no one to say "Poor dear, are you hurt?" so it
wasn't worth while to be hurt. Men who were passing, passed; they took no notice. Why should
they? A broken leg, even a broken neck, more or less, of what consequence would such trifles be in
the general havoc? During war, new values—are they better values?—are found for many things.
We were now in a narrow valley, with steep mountains close upon either side of us. We scrambled a
little way up the slope on our left, and found that the whole mountain side was becamped, and we
secured a small level space for our fires, with difficulty. We scraped away the snow and made a fire,
with wood, of which there was, fortunately, plenty, collected some clean snow for tea water, warmed
some tinned food, and had supper. Except from snow, there was no water available during the next
three days. No hay was procurable for the animals, and all we could give them to eat was dead
beech leaves, which we unburied from the snow. We slept round the fire, and prevented ourselves
from slipping down the mountain side, by logs of wood placed at our feet. The men, with their fires,
and the horses and the oxen, were close to us. And then I noticed that not only was our own hillside
ablaze with camp fires, but that the lights amongst the trees upon the mountain opposite, from
which we were only divided by two hundred yards of valley, were also camp fires, and not, as I had
fancied, stars. Where did camp fires end and stars begin? Were there still such things as stars? Or
was heaven quite shut out by earth? There was only a small piece of sky visible between the
towering and overhanging mountains, and, in the darkness, heaven and earth seemed merged in a
huge amphitheatre which was outlined by myriads of flickering lights. During the precious moments
just before sleep—the only moments, in these times, available for thought—stars and camp fires,
earth and heaven, became hopelessly mixed. I couldn't sort them, and I went to sleep, convinced
that stars were the camp fires of the heavenly host, which is now out in mortal combat against the
hosts of evil on our earth.
It took us, at first, a long time to pack the ponies, but we were away by dawn (Monday, December
6th), climbing up the mountain, through the fir trees, over slippery ice, and rocks which were half
hidden in snow. There was no longer a defined way; the whole earth was now an untrodden track,
from or to perdition. Whichever way you looked, oxen, horses, and human beings were struggling,
and rolling, and stumbling, all day long, in ice and snow. Soon after we started, I saw a long column
ascending a steep hillside; near the top, a horse slipped, and knocked down the man who was
leading it; they both fell, and as they rolled down the slope, they knocked down all the other men
and horses in the line, and these all fell like ninepins, one after the other, all the way down the
mountain side.
As the physical difficulties of the route increased, the difficulty, for all the columns, of securing bread
for men, and hay for oxen, and for horses, increased also, with the result that the track became
more and more thickly lined, with the dead bodies of oxen, and of horses, and worse still—of men.
Men by the hundred lay dead: dead from cold and hunger by the roadside, their eyes staring at the
irresponsive sky; and no one could stop to bury them. But, worse still, men lay dying by the
roadside, dying from cold and hunger, and no one could stay to tend them. The whole scene was a
combination of mental and physical misery, difficult to describe in words. No one knows, or will ever
know accurately, how many people perished, but it is believed that not less than 10,000 human
beings lie sepulchred in those mountains. The route of escape, which led through Monastir to
Durazzo, was even more disastrous. From amongst the army reserve of 30,000, composed of boys
below, and of men above military age, 10,000 only reached Durazzo.
Many of the fugitive women, when they saw the mountains, and were faced with death from cold,
fatigue, and starvation for themselves and children, went back to their Germanised villages in Serbia.
Poor souls! They were between the devil and the deep sea, and they chose—the devil! The wife and
two children—two boys—of one of our drivers, who had trekked with us, in one of our wagons, since
Palanka, also turned back when we came to the mountains, and for their sakes I was thankful.
Except from time to time, the congestion this day was not so great, because the mass of columns
was now outspread over the mountains, and the commanders chose their own tracks; but this was
in some ways worse, for it meant that the responsibility for route lay now with me. Gaolbird had no
sense of topography, and it was all he could do to drag his poor lame leg along; he was too heavy, in
every sense, to be of use. A false track might lead to disaster, and we only vaguely knew the
direction of our goal. But why should anyone fear responsibilities that come in the course of work?
We can only act according to our lights. Life is a sequence of choices during every moment of
existence. Even if we choose not to choose, that is equally a choice; and I risked prompt decisions to
scale or descend this, that, or the other height, with audacious confidence. Progress was slow, the
ponies often fell, and their loads had to be readjusted. My horse and I had many a stumble, but that
served as useful warning to the others behind. I shall never cease to wonder at the pluck and
endurance of our British staff, none of them accustomed to work of this sort. Specially, perhaps, was
it wonderful how the two nurses, and the cook, and the honorary secretary, held out, for physically
they were not as strong as the rest of us. They did not lead ponies, but they were always at hand, to
help with the packs or to prepare food, light fires, and make others generally as comfortable as
possible. If they had grumbled, or grown weary, they could have made unpleasant, conditions which
were only difficult.
As the day wore on, the way became steeper, and more and more slippery, both up and down the
mountain sides. In the afternoon, when we were half-way up a steep hill, which was covered with
snow—a foot, and sometimes two or three feet deep—we reached a space which was a solid block
of oxen, men and horses, all jumbled together in chaotic confusion. Evidently there was only a
narrow outlet into the thick forest of pines and beeches, which covered the valley to which we must
descend. To avoid the block, some columns were climbing higher up the mountain, in order to make
the descent at a farther point. The majority were trying to join a track which entered the wood on
the south side, and, like sheep through a gate, they were all tumbling over each other, in the
scramble for places in the narrow line. We had not heard close-range guns of late, and we were now
surprised to hear again loud, continuous, and near firing. We were soon told, in explanation, that a
party of Arnauts, or Albanians, had entrapped, for loot, some convoys which were close behind us, in
a narrow gorge, and that they were now murdering the members of the convoy. I have since heard
that the wife and eight children of the Commissariat Major, including the two boys in uniform, who
had walked with me one night, were all murdered that day, with many others, by these Arnauts.
We should have had to wait for hours, perhaps all night, before our turn came to get into the main
line of entrance to the wood, therefore, as the further climb up the mountain, must be avoided if
possible, an alternative route into the wood must be found. "Vooitch! come here." "Yes, madame."
"How deep is that snow? Try it with your stick." "Two feet, madame." "Oh! That's all right. Tell the
others to follow at once." And we plunged down the snow slope, on a track of our own, and forced
an entrance of our own into the wood.
But the wood was as bad as anything we had yet met—steep, slippery, with rocks, and stones, tree
trunks across the track, and low branches overhead hitting you in the face. It was enough to make
even a woman swear, and no woman would have been human if she had not said, just now and
then, a quiet "damn." The wood was interminable, and it seemed as if we should never reach the
end, and touch the valley bottom, but we must get out of it before night. Besides, we could not
stop; we were in the narrow line of columns. To my surprise, just before dusk, the sergeant, who
always stayed with the oxen party, as there was less work to do, came up and asked if he should
lead my horse for a while. It was nice of him, and, in order not to discourage him, I gave him the
reins and walked ahead, selecting, as usual, the route to be followed by the others. Soon we came
to a point from which the descent, for a couple of hundred yards, was sheer, and slippery with snow
and ice, to the end of the track and of the valley, and the temporary end, as we believed, of trouble.
For though no road was visible, and the hill rose abruptly on the other side of a small river-bed, now
dry, we heard that the river-bed ended in a road, a little further on to the left. The sergeant, during
his brief spell of work, was troubled by the constant slipping of the saddle, and this with other
difficulties at the end of an exhausting day, was too much for his temper. When he saw this steep
descent in front of us, he stopped; on our right there was a precipice. "Come along, Narednik"
(sergeant), "only another two hundred yards, and our troubles are over for the day." But he refused
to move, and he was holding up the rest of our column, and all the thousands who were pressing on
our heels. He said the ponies couldn't do it. "But they must; they can't fly. Look! Only that tiny
distance. Quick! We can't spend the rest of our lives here, and remember the Arnauts; give me the
pony." I took the reins. To my horror, the man gave the pony a shove, and it fell on the edge of the
precipice. I dragged at the reins, and saved the pony from falling over. I have never felt so angry,
and "Damn!" saved me from bursting. I needed no interpreter. I swore, the one word I knew, and
was not ashamed. I repeated it in loud tones all the way down the hill, and it took me and the pony
safely to the bottom. If I had not been so angry, I couldn't have done so well. The sergeant was
afterwards penitent, but I never let him lead the pony again.
It was now dark, and we must wait for stragglers who had got cut off in the wood. I stood on a
rock, blowing the whistle continuously. But it was more dangerous waiting than moving. I heard a
shout from one of our men, and I jumped aside, as two oxen and a horse, rolled down the hill on to
the spot where I had stood. I sent some of the party a few yards up the river gully, to light a fire and
make tea, whilst Vooitch and I waited for those who had been cut off. Then, when these had
collected, we went on another two or three miles up the river-bed of mud and rocks, which opened
into a narrow road of mud, with a thick wood on either side. With thousands of others, we
bivouacked for the night, at eleven o'clock, sleeping on the ground, round a fire, amongst the trees,
near the road. The snow was deep, and the ground sloping. I left my overcoat for a minute in the
place where I had been sitting at supper, and when I came back, I found that it had rolled into the
fire, and was making a cheerful blaze, but we fished it out, and, though full of holes, it was still
wearable.
RESCUING FALLEN PACK PONY IN BRIDGELESS RIVER NEAR JABUKA
ALBANIAN MOUNTAIN TRACK OF ROCKS AND MUD HOLES
Dead Horse in foreground
CHAPTER XXXVII
Next morning at daybreak, we were about to sit round the fire, for breakfast, when old Marco, the
gaolbird, strolled into camp. He had lost himself yesterday, and we had been anxious about him, for
he had with him the strongest horse, which was carrying, amongst other things, our precious tea-
pail and our frying-pan, the only kitchen implements now left, also some much-prized foodstuffs. We
were welcoming him, when an excited officer rushed up and shouted to us to get away at once, as
the Arnauts were close behind us. No one grumbled at having to go without breakfast: nobody
minds going without necessaries; we only grumble when we are deprived of luxuries; and it was not
necessary to hustle the few preparations for departure, and indeed these grew fewer every day. As
we moved off, daylight revealed dead men, unnoticed last night, lying close beside our camp, and as
we plunged into the muddy road, we saw that dead horses, and oxen, by the hundred, were lying on
the track.
We welcomed mud as an improvement on the slippery ice and snow of previous days. We now
realised that if worse weather had befallen, the larger portion of the Army must have perished in the
snows. There was truly much cause for thankfulness.
This day the travelling was comparatively easy. At one place where there were two tracks, the road
was even being controlled by officers, who, to hasten the escape from the Arnauts, and the pursuing
enemies, divided horse from oxen convoys, and sent horses up the higher, and oxen along the lower
mountain road. The roads joined a little later, but our convoy was allowed to keep together along the
lower road.
Under normal circumstances we should have thought ourselves lucky to see such scenery—of snow,
mountains, and pine woods; now we felt our luck lay in leaving it, yard by yard, behind us. But this
day we stumbled upon a flowing river of real water! This was indeed lucky; the first drink, except
from snow, that we, or our poor animals had enjoyed for three days. We had hoped to reach Roshai
and, perhaps, house-shelter that night; but darkness came, and with it a recrudescence of track
atrocities, boulders and holes, and mud above our knees. We had no more oil for our hurricane
lamps, and it was unprocurable. At seven p.m. I saw that further progress, till daylight, was
impossible, and the animals were exhausted. We turned aside, and with no light but the camp fires,
we bivouacked in a dryish field above the town.
Every day the numbers of our oxen and of our horses were reduced, and for the last two days the
poor beasts had starved on dead beech leaves; but now we were near a town, and we hoped for
hay. But Sandford and Merton came back complacently with their dreadful "Nema" (there is none).
There is something inexpressibly exasperating about this word "Nema." It doesn't mean, in a polite,
apologetic way, "Very sorry, but there is none to be had," or "Very sorry, but I have done the best I
could, and failed." It means, "Can't; shan't; won't; couldn't if I would; wouldn't if I could"; it
epitomises all the obstructive negatives capable of expression in any language. It is the obverse of
"Dobro," which means "All right, I will do what I can." "Nema" means "There was difficulty, and I
gave it up." You can't fight against "nema"; it hits you below the belt; it represents inaction, inanity,
indolence and indifference; a fourfold disease, for which there is no remedy. And "Nema nishta
Bogami" ("There is none, by God"), the Montenegrin form of "Nema," was even worse; it invoked
deific corroboration for assertions that you knew to be untrue.
Sandford could get no hay, so Vooitch and I must waste much precious time by searching for it. In
the morning early we all trekked into the town. In ordinary times this picturesque place would have
been a delight to us: the houses were of wood with grey shingle roofs; wooden ladders led from
outside to the living rooms; under the living rooms were the stables in which the cattle lived. But
now the houses were all shuttered and deserted; all shops were evacuated. There were no
foodstuffs; nothing was obtainable. "Nema nishta Bogami" stalked triumphant, up and down the
street. But hay we must have, or our animals could go no farther. The column waited in a yard,
whilst Vooitch and I explored. Some regiments were quartered in the town; they had horses, and
these, presumably, must be fed. We ascertained the names of the regiments, but it was not easy to
find the address of their headquarters, as everyone was a stranger in the place, and no one knew
anything except that he himself was looking for food and hay, and was not keen for others to find it
first. Eventually we ran a regiment to earth, but the officer in command, who was in a room upstairs,
must, I think, have seen me, and afraid, no doubt, that he might be asked to yield something which
he could not spare, he sent word that he was not there; and in his supposed absence, the under-
officer said he could do nothing. We found a mill, and gained entrance. Mealies were there, but not
for us. We tried everything and everybody—in vain. Were we after all to be beaten by that beastly
"Nema"? It was time now for the miracle, and at that moment two officers came riding down the
street. I boldly stopped them, and found that we knew each other. We had met on the trek. They
said that no hay was procurable anywhere, but that they had more than they needed, and they
would—bless them!—give us twenty kilos—enough for a feed, to take us on to the next military
station. We returned to the convoy, the hay was fetched, and the horses and oxen were fed. We had
lost a pony, which had strayed during the night, and the others might drop down any moment, and
we were lucky therefore to be able to buy two ponies, each still with four legs.
It was noon when we started; prospects were now wonderfully cheerful; the mountains by which we
were surrounded, looked less forbidding, and we crossed the swiftly flowing river by a bridge. We
outspanned at dusk at 4.30, a short day for once, and, for a wonder, we were offered, by an Arnaut,
shelter in two rooms of his house (against payment). This was, in normal times, a roadside inn, near
what was called the village of Kalatchi, though, as usual, no village was visible. The eagerness with
which the offer of house shelter was accepted by our British staff surprised me; it was a fine night;
the views were glorious, and I didn't want to miss seeing the dawn break over the mountains. Also, I
would rather have slept out, than risk the dirt. But the desire to enjoy the comfort of having a roof
overhead, was understandable, and, in case our Albanian host was not dependable, we must keep
together. We had bought a sheep in Roshai, and we pretended to enjoy mightily, the toughest
mutton ever chewed, as we sat round the fire in the big open chimney-place. Our host came and
stared at us, and we made friends, and gave him some tea, which he much appreciated. He was not
an Arnaut proper, but a Serbian Mohammedan; he was very tall and handsome; his dress, stagelike;
a white turban, a short black and yellow striped coat, over a soft white shirt, tucked into white frieze
trousers, which had a stripe of black braid down the leg—the dress of the Albanians, and very
beautiful. But I was much worried by the trousers, for, instead of fastening nice and safely, like
Christian trousers, round the waist, these fastened below the hip. This fashion was not peculiar to
our friend: it was common to all Albanian "nuts," and until I learned from experience that my fears
were groundless, the trousers of the Albanian gentlemen gave me much anxiety. I was possessed by
a shy curiosity, which was never gratified, to know how they kept up; but an accident never occurred
in my presence.
Our host, as he watched us eating, was equally surprised at our customs, and, finally, he could not
restrain his curiosity. "Why on earth," he asked at last, "are you all eating separately?" (instead of all
together out of a common bowl) and no one knew the answer.
We were up next morning at five (Thursday, December 9th). I saw the dawn break, and I saw the
sun rise, ushered over the mountains by the usual proclamation, in pink and mauve, that here was
another day, another chance of discovering some of the great truths, which we ignore, as we crawl,
cramped, within our three dimensions. Everything in Nature points to the sky except man, who
keeps his eyes upon the ground. I stood for a precious moment of uplifting, then I returned to crawl,
and creep, and stumble, during that day, in mud worse than any yet encountered. But I wanted to
take a photograph of the starting of the column. The group of men, women, and pack ponies, all in
flight—emblems of this transient life—outlined, in the frail light, against the dark mountains—
emblems of eternity. I placed my whip, and gloves, upon the ground whilst I took the photo. In the
meantime, a passing soldier picked them up, and walked off with them. One of our men saw this,
and shouted threateningly, and the soldier, in response, aimed his rifle at us. Hunger, fatigue, and
misery, made men short-tempered and desperate in these days. The soldier's thumb was already on
the trigger, and, quick, as lightning, one of our men put up his gun; both were on the point of firing,
in "self-defence." The thunder of Austrian guns, rapidly approaching, was in our ears, so I walked
briskly up to the soldier, beckoning with one hand, behind my back, to our men to keep quiet, and,
as I pointed to the mountains in the north, I said, in my best Serbian, "Plenty of shooting going on
over there; not wanted here; gloves and whip mine; no use to you, Molim (please)." I held out my
hand for them; he gave them to me, and walked off quietly.
The loud firing near us all day, and news that a stiff battle was pending, put spurs into weary feet.
The strain and effort of wading through mud, sometimes above the knees, during hour after hour of
a twelve-hour day, made such a spur sometimes useful for safety. Along, and up, and down,
mountain sides, and in woods, through mud lanes which never saw the sun, we scrambled till dusk.
Then we outspanned on a grass slope, at the edge of a wood of firs and beech trees.
During the night, all the stars of heaven, especially Orion, and the Pleiades, blinked at us, with
superior unconcern; but I told them, as I fell asleep, that it was easy for them to look pure and
bright; they hadn't been wading, knee deep, all day in Balkan mud. It put me in my place, as an
earthworm, that they took no notice of our troubles, but I excused them, for, if the sun, moon, stars,
and all the furniture of heaven, had tumbled, in sympathy, at our feet, they would only have been
buried in the mud.
CHAPTER XXXVIII
On Friday, December 10th, we were up at dawn as usual, and we trekked along a better road to
Berani. When we were outside the town, halting for a few minutes, I found the men talking
excitedly, and I discovered that they were very angry with Sandford and Merton. This couple, on the
pretext of going on ahead, to procure bread and hay, had left us on the morning of the Arnaut scare,
had taken with them the Government money, and had not returned. We had elected another
commissaire, and J. G. was acting as treasurer, and using our own money. The men knew that many
soldiers from other columns had deserted. To avoid evils of which they knew—hunger, weariness,
discomfort and home-sickness—they had flown to others of which they knew nothing, and I guessed
that our men might argue, that if now the superior Sandford and Merton had also thought it wise to
desert——. But I reminded them that there would be no Serbian homes to go to, unless the Serbian
Army was preserved. The longest way round was the shortest way home. "For the sake of your own
people, and your own land, you must," I told them, "march bravely forward now." "Your own people,
your own land!" The words came glibly enough, though I knew that they would hack, like a sword
with jagged edges, at the hearts of those dead living men. But it was my duty to keep them with us
to the end, wherever and whatever that end might be.
And then, by a coincidence, Sandford and Merton at that moment reappeared. I asked them sternly
where they had been, and they replied with a naïve frankness which disarmed me: "We were afraid
of the Arnauts, and we ran away, to get quickly to Berani; we thought we should be safer there."
Comment was useless: we are not all born heroes. But had they, I asked, at least, during their time
in Berani, secured bread and hay for men and cattle? I braced myself for the inevitable answer, but
when the poisonous words exuded, dropping soft and pulpy into the mud in which the men stood,
"Hleba nema" (bread, none), "Ceno nema" (hay, none), "Y Berani, nema nishta" (in Berani, nothing
at all), I wished I had been born in Whitechapel. Piety was out of place. But I was pious, and I told
them to go back to the town and try again; Vooitch and I should also go there to secure what they
would try for.
The column waited for Vooitch and me on the far side of the town. A few shops were still open, and
maize bread, at exorbitant prices, was being carried by triumphant buyers through the streets. This
made our mouths water, and presently gaolbird met a Montenegrin friend (from the United States)
who had an official position in the town, and he generously made us a present of a huge loaf of corn
bread, and sent a gens-d'arme with us across the bridge (over the river Leem) to the other side of
the town, to direct us to the houses of the Prefect and of the Governor, from whom I hoped to get
bread rations, now very much overdue. I felt sure from the look of things that we should get them.
But I was told that the Governor was ill in bed. All the better, I thought; he won't be able to get
away from me. Starving people don't stand on ceremony. I went to his bedroom, knocked at the
door, for form's sake, and walked in. He didn't seem very ill. Perhaps the shock of seeing me revived
him. I expressed sympathy with his illness at such an inopportune moment. Could we help him in
any way? No? Very well, but he could help us. Military rations were overdue, and somewhat difficult
to get. Would he very kindly write a note for us to the Prefect? This was done. The Prefect was away
lunching, but after a little trouble we unearthed him, and we obtained 25 kilos of bread for the men
and for ourselves. Thanks to a little searching-eye business, short-weight of loaves was discovered,
and finally the glad-eye business secured an extra couple of loaves. We also obtained the hay for the
cattle. I hoped that Sandford and Merton would be ashamed, but they were not.
It was three o'clock before we rejoined the others, and were able to give the ponies and the oxen
food. Roshai was already in the hands of the Schwabes, and we must not dally, so we trekked till
dark, bivouacked partly in a paddock, and partly in two rooms of a house belonging to an Arnaut
and his wife. The latter could not read, and had never been beyond her village of Vootsche.
On Saturday, December 11th, the usual routine. Over mountains, and through mud which had been
churned into jelly, by countless hoofs of oxen and horses. Towards the end of the day we were in a
narrow lane, which was bounded on one side by a high hill, and on the other by a deep precipice
over the river. The mud was three feet deep, and when I looked round to see if all were following, I
saw one of our ponies lying, half-drowned, in the mud, and our indomitable cook was sitting on its
head, to prevent the pony rolling over the edge, whilst one of the men was loosening the pack.
We were now near Andreavitza; our road led near to, but not through the town, and we cherished
hopes of oil, and candles, meat and bread. We arrived at 4 (dusk) at the cross-roads, and placed the
column in a convenient field, amongst trees, on the eastern side of the bridge. A blustering sergeant
came up and ordered us to move; no one was allowed, he said, to camp on this side of the bridge;
the officer on the bridge had given this order. I didn't believe it; our sergeant wanted to give in and
meekly to move on, but as there was no other good site near, I rode on to the bridge, and saw the
officer, who, of course, allowed us to stay. I would have given much that evening not to have been
obliged to sally forth to look for bread and hay, but if I had not gone, the result would have been
"nema nishta." The shopping party set forth full of high hopes for the town. "Buy me this, that, and
the other thing," cried optimistically those who were left in camp, as if we were in Piccadilly.
But, as usual, in the town it was "Nema! nema!" everywhere. The only triumph was a tiny bunch of
tallow candles, and a promise from the Prefect of bread for to-morrow. Always bread to-morrow;
never bread to-day. But we met an officer who knew us, and he kindly insisted on treating us to
cups of coffee, at a café which had open doors for the last time. No food was procurable. We were
on our way back to camp, when in the street, a man came towards us carrying—we couldn't believe
our eyes—three shining silver fish upon a string. They were not trout, but memories of happy fishing
days in Norway, Sweden, Finland, gave this fish an added glory. We stopped him and asked if he
would sell them. The sight of them made us fastidious towards thoughts of bully beef awaiting us in
camp, and we would have given almost anything he asked. He would not sell them, but to our
surprise he said: "I will give you this as a present," and he put the largest fish into my hands, and at
that moment I thought Andreavitza, with its mountain setting, and its picturesque church, the most
lovely townlet in the world. In camp we slept round the fire as usual, under the espionage of the
highest mountains of Montenegro.
Next morning, Sunday December 12th, we were late in starting, as we had to wait for the return of
the men sent to fetch the bread from the military station in Andreavitza. When the sergeant saw the
fifty loaves (25 kilos), he brought with him to the distribution, an admonitory rod, to ensure that no
man should take more than his due share. As long as bread was procurable, the men need not
starve, as trek ox could always be sacrificed, and I frequently had the melancholy task of deciding
that the weariness of death was coming over such and such an ox; he had been lovely and pleasant
in his life, and now in his death, he must be divided. And for ourselves, our supply of mealie meal,
and rice, and beans, still held out. We saw too much of the inward ways of oxen, along the road, to
be keen to eat the roast beef of Montenegro. We had said good-bye to butter, jam, milk, sugar, and
biscuits, long ago, but we were, of course, in luxury compared with many thousands, and we had
long outgrown the absurd habit of thinking that it is necessary to take nourishment every two or
three hours.
And now, on this Sunday, to our surprise, we found ourselves upon a road which was more like a
Corsican, than a Montenegrin road. Steep, very steep, all day long, but with excellent surface and
excellently graded. We were grateful, as it allowed us to be more polite than we had been of late, to
the wondrous scenery. But even now, only in a distant fashion. The beauty of Nature depends, for
each one of us, upon what the mind reads into it, and the mountains of Montenegro, reflected from
every stone, the hungry hearts of an exiled people.
By the evening we were amongst the hill-tops; the mountains of Montenegro and Albania were all
around us, naked, precipitious, and inhospitable rocks, with occasional gloomy forests of beech, and
fir trees, interspersed. Majestic, magnificent, and the magnitude of outlook, wonderful, no doubt,
but my heart refused to praise this sarcophagus of hope. How could mountains be beautiful which
enclosed such sorrow? How could their air invigorate, when it carried, not the scent of flowers, or
the breath of the sea, but the stench of the unburied dead? As empty shells, upon the hills, reveal
the presence in the past, of the waters of the sea, so the bones of men upon these mountains, will,
in the future, betray the wave of human life, which flowed westwards to the coast.
The river at Andreavitza had been, when we saw it, green, of a colour which no painter could ever
hope to mix; but I found myself comparing it to a green satin ribbon, which is a detestable thing.
The river fell in fine cascades, and should, to a sympathetic ear, have sounded the arpeggio of the
common chord of Nature; but I only heard the thumping of a child's fists upon the piano. And now
the sunset hues amongst the hill-tops were, to me, the funeral colours of the dying sun, and the
crimson gleam slowly spreading over the dead white snow, was bloodstain which would never melt.
Moist clouds, and mist, came down from heaven to try and veil the harshness of the mountains, in
gossamers of mauve and purple, dragged from the setting sun, but they could not veil the memory
of the suffering they enclosed; suffering of battle-fields and suffering worse than that of battle-fields.
We turned our eyes impatiently again to the road scenes. We were much interested in trying to
induce a pony, which had been abandoned on the road, and was now recovering, to come with us:
we needed all the four-legged help we could get. Colson and Jordan cheered it on with bundles of
hay, and a touch of stick, and brought it into our night's camp. This latter was in a thick beech wood.
The ground was our bed, and the dead beech leaves were our mattresses. During the night we had
a scare of Arnauts, when a number of men rushed past us, shouting excitedly, but they were only in
pursuit of a thief. If he was caught, he would be shot; if he was not caught, he would die of
starvation. Death! Death! everywhere. Always Life fleeing from Death, and always Life overtaken in
the end.
CHAPTER XXXIX
Next morning, Monday, December 13th, we were off early, and after half an hour's further climb, we
began, to our joy, to descend. The road was tolerable, but it rained all day, and our adventures were
with swift and bridgeless rivers. Ponies, with their packs, stumbled in mid-stream, and everyone, wet
to the waist, must go to the rescue. We were now carrying the minimum of food and blankets, and
could not afford further losses. But the ponies were so weak that, if they fell, it was unlikely that
they would rise again, and then both pony and pack must be abandoned.
We wanted to reach Yabuka that night, as there was, we were told, a military station there, and
bread might be obtainable. It was dark when we arrived, and rain was falling in torrents. We couldn't
find the military station, for the good reason that it had already been evacuated: therefore, no
bread. There were only three cottages in the place, and they were packed with soldiers and
prisoners. Before turning them out into the wet, I went with Vooitch another mile, as we saw a long
wooden shed ahead of us, and hoped that it might be available; the column halted by the cottages.
The shed was inhabited by some officers, who said that half a mile further on there was—an hotel!
and that the landlord would be sure to make room for us; some officers also were there, and if I
addressed myself to them they would make things easy, etc. I was a little incredulous about the
hotel, and the readiness to welcome us, but Vooitch and I rode on, only to find "nema nishta
Bogami." The so-called hotel was crammed, there was not standing room; the officer of whom we
had been told, was in a house opposite. We went to this, and found that one tiny room had been
given to him and to his wife and family for the night. I asked him if my family might share the room
with his family. He began demurring, but I suggested that it was not an ideal night for picnicking
outside. He shrugged his shoulders, then pointed to the corner of the room farthest from his family;
in this many soldiers, and odds and ends were crouched, and sleeping, but at the first shrug, I sent
Vooitch off to fetch the others. We boldly brought in, not only ourselves, but our packs. After eating
our supper, we lay down on the dirty floor on our rugs, luxuriating in having a roof over our heads.
The soldiers found shelter in sheds and stables.
Amongst the fellow-inhabitants of our room, was a priest. In the game of musical chairs, for
possession of the only chair in the room, he had triumphed, and he sat tight on this chair, all through
the evening, and all night long. He was evidently particular about proprieties, and liked things to be
done in order. Bedtime was bedtime, wherever you met it, and it must be scrupulously regarded. At
ten o'clock he looked at his watch, replaced it, then, with the calm deliberation of a man who, in a
well-appointed bedroom, performs the same act in the same way regularly every night of the 365
nights of the year, he removed his trousers. For a moment I was in trepidation; what was coming
next? I looked round to see if the girls were asleep. Their eyes were shut. I couldn't take mine off
the priest; he never looked round, he took no notice of anyone, and when the trousers were off, he
sat down again on the precious chair, folded his trousers, placed them on his lap, went to sleep,
sitting bolt upright, and snored vigorously all night long. I understood the trouser action; the
removal was a danger signal, to keep off talkative people, or people who might want his chair. By
this simple act, he established all around that chair, a Brunhilde ring of fire, through which no one
dared to break. It was original and effective, and I was so grateful to him for giving me something to
laugh at, that I could have—but the trousers prevented me.
Next day, Tuesday, December 14th, the weather gave us a variety. Rain, and hail, and sleet, and
bitter cold all day. We had found hay for the animals last night, but none for the morning's feed, and
we were still fifty-four kilometres—a two days' journey—distant from Podgoritza. No wonder that
animals were lying dead in hundreds by the roadside. Bread, too, became more and more difficult to
get. We had to-day seen a woman coming out of a cottage, with a loaf of corn bread in her hand.
We flew at her and bought it for thirty dinars (18s.). Was it a wonder that men also were lying dead,
and dying, in hundreds by the roadside? But I never grew callous to the things I saw. On the
contrary, my heart grew softer, and I became more and more angry at a system of world
government which permits those second-class angels to bluff mankind, and keep him from the Tree
of Life, by the flourishing of a flaming sword.
After trekking for three hours, we heard that there was hay to be bought some way up a mountain
on our left. So we halted at a cottage by the roadside, while the men climbed the hill to fetch the
hay. Some of the drivers at first wanted to shirk the climb; I did not blame them, though I told them
they must go; but one of our Englishmen commented scornfully on the laziness of the Serbian
soldier, so I reminded him that yesterday, when he was in trouble with his pony, owing to mud and
rain, he had lost his temper for a moment, and I now asked him if he would like his character to be
judged by his behaviour at that time of only a slight trouble? The Serbian soldier, in addition to such
slight troubles, was suffering from troubles which we British islanders can scarcely imagine. The
Englishman had for the moment forgotten all this, and he agreed with me that the behaviour of the
Serbian soldiers was, under all the circumstances, marvellous.
The road ran in hairpin curves between huge mountains of grey, bare, rugged rock. You might as
well expect milk from stones, as food amongst such mountains. It was a terrible land, and I felt, as I
trudged through it, that I should never want to see another mountain. But at dusk (4 p.m.) we
reached the military station of Levorcka. Would this also be deserted? I sent gaolbird on to try and
find rooms. He found one room and a kitchen in which we could cook food, in the house of an
Arnaut woman. When I went into the living room to ask her to let us boil a kettle on her fire, a
pretty little girl of eight was fastening the dress of her little sister, six years old. I said something
about the children in my best Serbian, and the woman who was, at first, very curt with us, told me
that she had no children; these were two lost refugees; an officer had picked them up on the road,
and had left them here. The woman was very kind to them, and had grown to love them. She said
that it was possible that the mother might come past this way. But the elder girl was already useful,
and I wondered if the childless woman would keep a very vigorous look-out for that lost mother?
After much trouble we housed the ponies in cattle stables, and the men slept with them to prevent
their being stolen. We had lost two more ponies to-day; left on the road too weak to rise, and it was
doubtful whether my horse could go much further. But the men found a fine strong pony on the
mountains, when they went for hay, and this was a great help.
We were, alas, too late to get bread that evening, but we were told to come again in the morning.
That looked hopeful; but when, on the morning of Wednesday, December 15th, we arrived at the
military station, the officer said that no bread had come, and that he had just received a telegram
saying that all bread, when it came, was to be sent to the soldiers at the front—an effective silencer.
On that day we saw epitomised, the barbarous beauty of the land of Montenegro. Our route lay in
narrow valleys between steep mountains of grey rock; bare of vegetation, bare of life, bare of
everything but inhospitable jagged peaks which dared you to come near them. The rocks were grey,
the sky was grey, and yet, suddenly, at a sharp turn of the grey road, a grey precipice pointed grimly
all the way down, three thousand feet, to a tiny ribbon of the most brilliant green water that ever
flowed in fairyland. In such drab surroundings, where did it get that colour? Prosaic people would
say "melted snow water," but Hans Andersen would have known better than that. And so did I. But
as it (the river) was quite inaccessible, it was, like everything else in the country, a forbidding sight.
But there was that day another moment of stolen joy, when, before beginning the descent towards
the plain in which lay Podgoritza, the grey prison walls slid open, and revealed vast stretches of open
country, distant mountains, valleys, and, in the middle of a grey mist of mountain ranges, glinting in
the midday sun, a line of gold—could it be—yes, it was the Lake of Scutari. Ah! that was beautiful
indeed! We had never seen anything so refreshing as that.
Old gaolbird and Sandford and Merton went on to try and get rooms, and bread and hay, in the
village of Vilatz. After winding round and round the mountain side, on a narrow road, we arrived,
and found Sandford and Merton sitting calmly on a rock this side of the village, "nema nishta"
written in capitals all over their faces. So Vooitch and I went on into the village, and the first man to
whom we spoke said, "Oh, yes," he could give us hay, and bread, and a house in which to spend the
night. It was too good to be true, but we told him to wait while we went on to see the officer at the
military station, to ask for bread for the men. But the officer said "nema nishta" to bread and to
everything, so we went out to see what our first friend could do for us. We found the local Prefect
standing outside; a tall, fine-looking man, dressed in dark blue uniform, with a revolver hanging
conspicuously from his waist-belt. To our surprise, he accosted us aggressively, and said we must not
buy hay or bread from the man who had offered it. The man remonstrated, and said it was his hay
and his bread, and he could do what he liked with it. I was inclined to agree with him, but the
Prefect then stormed and shouted, and brought out his revolver, and threatened to shoot the man if
we went with him. He did not realise who we were, and that, though I was in woman's dress, I had
majorly authority. We mentioned this. Then I took his name and told him that I should tell the
English newspapers how a Montenegrin Prefect treated his English allies. That was a great success.
At once it appeared that we had misunderstood him. He had only spoken for our good, fearing that
we might be disappointed of the promised hay and bread; but, by all means, if we wished to go to
the man's house, we could go. But I now guessed that, as food was scarce in the village, our friend
might get into trouble if we took his stuff. The house was out of our way, so I expressed cold thanks
for the permission, and we trekked to the next village (Klopot), which was said to contain hay.
The village consisted of half a dozen one-storied houses, amongst the barren rocks. Only here and
there, like plums in a school pudding, were patches of green winter corn, amongst the grey
boulders. To carry on the usual farce, Sandford and Merton had gone on ahead to procure hay, and
we found them sitting comfortably in a cottage. "Hullo! Here you are! How much hay have you
found?" "Nema nishta." "How much bread?" "Nema nishta." This form having been gone through,
Vooitch and I went, as usual, to search. At the end of a long trek, I sometimes wished I was not
obliged to start out to do the work of another man who had nothing else to do. But I always
remembered that I was not enduring the misery of leaving my country in enemies' hands; I must not
judge them till I had been similarly tried. These men were probably jewels at their own jobs in
normal times. Sandford had been employed in a bank and had perhaps there learned to say "nema
nishta" to his customers. The other man's job had been commercial.
But it was a little unlucky for them that on this occasion, the first man in the street whom Vooitch
and I approached for hay, replied promptly, "Oh, yes," he could sell us a thousand kilos; and it was
still more unlucky for them that, when we followed this man to his house, to complete the bargain,
he took us straight to the house in which Sandford and Merton were at that moment comfortably
settled; a proof that they had not even troubled to ask for hay. We did not want a thousand kilos,
and at first our friend said we must buy all or nothing; but that was only a preamble, and he gave us
200 kilos at half a dinar a kilo. At the last village they had asked two grosch.[1] Our poor tired pony-
and oxen-leaders now had a two-miles' climb over boulders, and up steep hills, to fetch hay. No
bread or food for the men had been obtained or sought, and as Sandford and Merton were now
quite helpless and did nothing for the men, I decided that the latter should, in future, be given
money wherewith to procure food for themselves. This was at first resisted by S. and M., but I
insisted, and forced them to make a list of the men's names, and to start giving the money
immediately. And the men were well content, and I knew now that if there was food to be had, they
would find it.
[1] A grosch equals about three half-pence.
We were in luck's way that night, for it was bitterly cold, with sleet and snow, and a Montenegrin
policeman allowed us to sleep on the mud floor of his room. Going to bed was, in these days, a
delightfully simple operation. Men one end of the room, women the other. No undressing, no
washing; one rag on the ground to lie on, and another to cover you, and you had gone to bed, and
were generally asleep in a few minutes. The unshaved men looked like elongated hedgehogs, and I
was humbly thankful that Nature hadn't given me cheeks that were liable to sprout with stiff and
bristly hairs at the slightest provocation.
The ponies and oxen found shelter under some rocks in a field next to our house. Our host had
some rakiya, and, for a wonder, he sold us a little, so we called in the pony leaders and gave them
each a small glassful. They expressed themselves, both then and on other occasions, freely,
concerning the Montenegrins. They were all, of course, desperately keen to get back to Serbia one
day, but never, they said, vehemently, through Montenegro. "Nema nishta Bogami" had been too
severe a trial for their overstrung nerves.
The Montenegrin people seemed, to our men, selfish and unfriendly, and almost, like their country,
hostile. But I reminded our soldiers that Montenegro was a poor and barren land; there was
probably not more than enough food for the Montenegrin people, and now the Serbian Army and a
portion of the Serbian nation had been billeted on them, and they could not afford to be generous.
But, in my heart, I sympathised with our men's sentiments. I gathered, during my passage through
the country, the impression that Montenegro desires above all an extension of commerce; that good
roads are of first importance for this, and that Montenegrin hearts would warm most to the nation
which was most likely to give them the best roads.
I was not surprised that a stouter resistance was not offered to the Austrian enemy.
CHAPTER XL
Thursday, December 16th, the last day in the mountains of Montenegro, consummated the
impressions that had been stamped upon our minds of the gaunt, desolate nature of this country.
Rain fell all day, as we trekked through valleys which were only wide enough for the narrow road,
and for that bright green ribbon river which, below us, ran between mountains of bare, precipitous
rock. Occasionally there was an interlude of basaltic formation. That was a relief, for it spoke of
kinship with our Giant's Causeway, and the Caves of Staffa. By a further stretch of the imagination, it
was just possible sometimes, when relenting boulders hung less threateningly over the river bank, to
be reminded of the cliffs of Cornwall, but, as a rule, nothing reminded you of anything you had ever
seen, or ever wished to see again.
On all sides grey prison walls, and mist and rain, shutting out earth and heaven; only the track
visible, and on the track, dead oxen, inside out, surrounded by their entrails (I never knew before
how multitudinous and how disgusting the internal arrangements of a simple ox could be); hungry
men, slashing with knives, the still warm carcases, and marching off with hunks of bleeding flesh in
their bloody hands; dead horses; dying horses who understood, and forebore to harass you with the
appealing eye; and now, too, dead men at every turn—men dead from hunger, cold, fatigue and
sorrow. With the dead men the pathos lay, not in their deadness—we shall all be dead some day—
but in the thought that these simple, ignorant, peasant soldiers had, in these desolate mountains,
laid down their lives, away from military glory and renown, for an idea which must, for many, have
been blurred and indistinct, almost sub-conscious. The idea was the same as that for which Serbian
soldiers had laid down their lives at Kossovo, an idea which had nothing in it of vulgar conquest or
aggression, the idea that the soul of Serbia must be free, to work out its own salvation. Home,
family, even country, count for nothing, if the soul of Serbia is not free. Home, family, even country
must be sacrificed, if needs be, to ensure that the soul of Serbia shall be free.
At two o'clock that day we could scarcely believe our eyes. In front of us, was a break in the
imprisoning rocks, and we saw an open plain, and on the far side of the plain, a town—the town of
Podgoritza. Could we dare to think, for the first time, of rest from cold and hunger, treks and
columns? Could we dare to think of home, and of those we loved, from whom, during three long
months, we had had no tidings? No! No! Not yet.
We descended, and emerged into the open country. Our backs were now turned to the mountains;
and whatever might happen in the future—and we had a notion, alas! mistaken, that the road from
Podgoritza to Scutari would be more normal—whatever might be before us, the mountains of
Montenegro were behind us, and we uttered a Sbogom (good-bye) of intense relief.
The mountains ended with characteristic harshness, abruptly on the plain, and soon, along a good
road, we outdistanced them; but between their folds, the octopus of death was still busy, clutching
with tentacles of hunger, cold, and sorrow, victims who had escaped the battlefield. I wanted to
forget the past, and I would not at first look back on Sodom and Gomorrah—I remembered Lot's
wife. But I had prayed, often enough, in vigorous determination, for strength to bring the column
through; should I not now look back, with equally vigorous prayer and thankfulness for their
deliverance? I looked back; the high mountains were closing ranks behind us, as though to guard
their horrors; there was now no sign of passage-way. Yes, I looked back, and I saw a vision which
would, in olden days, have been called supernatural. For, across the black mountains, from peak to
base, a rainbow shone, and hid the hideousness of bare rocks, beneath its lustrous colours. It
spanned earth and sky, and formed a highway from heaven, even to this cruel land. And in it I saw
the token of the Covenant, which, of old, God made between Him and all flesh, that He would not
destroy the living creatures that are on the earth. I saw and understood. God's Covenant still holds
good. Hope guarded the entrance even to that purgatory. Therefore, we must not forget the past
that was enshrined in these mountains; the memory of that past must be carried with us as a fire,
wherefrom to kindle counter-fire, against the flaming sword which now destroys the living creatures
which are on the earth, and keeps them from the Tree of Life.
We were soon in Podgoritza. Leaving the column in a side-street, V. and I went, according to
custom, first to the military station, to ask for bread and hay. The captain in command was
extremely genial and kind. But he said that no bread was available till to-morrow. I knew it was not
his fault, and I said "Thank you," and was leaving; but he then broke into a eulogy of our nation; he
seemed pleased because we had not grumbled at not getting bread, and he compared us with some
other nations, who were not, he said, so adaptable to circumstances. Then he tried to persuade me
to go to Scutari, more or less comfortably, by boat, across the lake, and to leave the soldiers to
come by themselves, with the ponies and the remaining oxen by road—only ten oxen were now left.
The road was, he said, execrable, and we couldn't make the journey in less than three days. But as
long as there was one man and one ox left, I couldn't desert the column: I must carry on.
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