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Java EE 5 Development using GlassFish Application
Server 1st Ed. Edition David R. Heffelfinger Digital
Instant Download
Author(s): David R. Heffelfinger
ISBN(s): 9781847192608, 1847192602
Edition: 1st Ed.
File Details: PDF, 7.30 MB
Year: 2007
Language: english
Java EE 5 Development using
GlassFish Application Server

The complete guide to installing and configuring the

GlassFish Application Server and developing Java EE 5
applications to be deployed to this server

David R. Heffelfinger

BIRMINGHAM - MUMBAI
Java EE 5 Development using GlassFish
Application Server
The complete guide to installing and configuring the GlassFish
Application Server and developing Java EE 5 applications to be
deployed to this server

Copyright © 2007 Packt Publishing

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval
system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, without the prior written
permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embedded in
critical articles or reviews.

Every effort has been made in the preparation of this book to ensure the accuracy of
the information presented. However, the information contained in this book is sold
without warranty, either express or implied. Neither the author, Packt Publishing,
nor its dealers or distributors will be held liable for any damages caused or alleged to
be caused directly or indirectly by this book.

Packt Publishing has endeavored to provide trademark information about all the
companies and products mentioned in this book by the appropriate use of capitals.
However, Packt Publishing cannot guarantee the accuracy of this information.

First published: October 2007

Production Reference: 1031007

Published by Packt Publishing Ltd.

32 Lincoln Road
Olton
Birmingham, B27 6PA, UK.

ISBN 978-1-847192-60-8

www.packtpub.com

Cover Image by Vinayak Chittar (vinayak.chittar@gmail.com)

 Credits

Author Project Coordinator

David R. Heffelfinger Sagara Naik

Reviewers Indexer
Meenakshi Verma Monica Ajmera
Kim Mark Lewis
Proofreader
Acquisition Editor Chris Smith
Priyanka Baruah
Production Coordinator
Technical Editor Shantanu Zagade
Ajay.S
Cover Designer
Editorial Manager Shantanu Zagade
Dipali Chittar

Project Manager
Patricia Weir
 About the Author

David Heffelfinger has been developing software professionally since 1995;

he has been using Java as his primary programming language since 1996. He has
worked on many large-scale projects for several clients including Freddie Mac,
Fannie Mae, and the US Department of Defense. He has a Masters degree in Software
Engineering from Southern Methodist University. David is editor in chief of
Ensode.net (http://www.ensode.net), a website about Java, Linux, and other
technology topics.

First and foremost, I would like to thank my family for putting up

with me spending several hours a day working on this book; without
your support, I wouldn't have been able to accomplish this.

I would also like to thank the Packt Publishing staff for their help
and support in getting this book published. I am especially grateful
to Priyanka Baruah, who first contacted me regarding this book,
Patricia Weir for her patience regarding the several changes to the
book's outline, Sagara Naik for keeping track of the schedule. I
would also like to thank the technical reviewers, Kim Lewis and
Meenakshi Verma for providing excellent suggestions. Last but not
least, I would also like to thank Douglas Paterson, who gave me the
opportunity to get my first book published (and who wished to
work on a second book with me) for supporting my decision to work
on this book.
 About the Reviewers

Meenakshi Verma has more than nine years of experience in Analysis, Design,
Development, and Implementation of stand-alone and web-based applications using
various languages like Java-based technologies, C, and BBx. She is proficient in
developing applications using J2EE technologies.

Meenakshi has also done the technical review of the Packt book titled Jasper Reports
for Java Developers by David Heffelfinger.

She is currently working at Sapient's Toronto Office.

Kim Mark Lewis has been a consultant since 1991 to the US Federal Government,
working on financial and human resource systems for a variety of agencies such
as NASA, the Federal Communications Commission, the Federal Reserve Board,
the Department of the Army, and the Department of the Navy. Kim divides his
professional programming life between Java and .NET. He is married and has one
daughter and is currently living in the Washington D.C. area.
 Table of Contents
Preface 1
Chapter 1: Getting Started with GlassFish 5
Overview of Java EE and GlassFish 5
GlassFish Advantages 6
Obtaining GlassFish 7
Installing GlassFish 8
GlassFish Dependencies 8
Performing the Installation 8
Verifying the Installation 10
Deploying Our First Java EE Application 12
Deploying an Application through the Web Console 12
Undeploying an Application through the Web Console 17
Deploying an Application through the Command Line 19
Undeploying an Application through the Command Line 20
GlassFish Domains Explained 21
Creating Domains 21
Deleting Domains 23
Stopping a Domain 23
Setting Up Database Connectivity 24
Setting Up Connection Pools 24
Summary 31
Chapter 2: Servlet Development and Deployment 33
Writing Our First Servlet 34
Compiling the Servlet 36
Configuring the Servlet 37
Packaging the Web Application 38
Deploying the Web Application 40
Testing the Web Application 40
Processing HTML Forms 42
Table of Contents

Request Forwarding and Response Redirection 49

Request Forwarding 49
Response Redirection 53
Persisting Application Data across Requests 56
Summary 59
Chapter 3: JavaServer Pages 61
Introduction to JavaServer Pages 61
Developing Our First JSP 62
JSP Implicit Objects 65
JSPs and JavaBeans 73
Reusing JSP Content 78
JSP Custom Tags 81
Extending SimpleTagSupport 81
Using Tag Files to Create Custom JSP Tags 87
Unified Expression Language 91
Summary 95
Chapter 4: Database Connectivity 97
The CustomerDB Database 97
JDBC 99
Retrieving Data from a Database 99
Modifying Database Data 107
The Java Persistence API 109
Entity Relationships 115
One-to-One Relationships 116
One-to-Many Relationships 122
Many-to-Many Relationships 128
Composite Primary Keys 134
Java Persistence Query Language 139
Final Notes 142
Summary 143
Chapter 5: JSP Standard Tag Library 145
Core JSTL Tag Library 145
Formatting JSTL Tag Library 154
SQL JSTL Tag Library 158
XML JSTL Tag Library 163
JSTL Functions 167
Summary 171
Chapter 6: JavaServer Faces 173
Developing Our First JSF Application 172
Custom Data Validation 184

[ ii ]
 Table of Contents

Creating Custom Validators 184

Validator Methods 187
Customizing JSF's Default Messages 191
Integrating JSF and JPA 196
JSF Core Components 203
<f:actionListener> 203
<f:attribute> 203
<f:convertDateTime> 204
<f:convertNumber> 204
<f:converter> 204
<f:facet> 205
<f:loadBundle> 206
<f:param> 206
<f:phaseListener> 206
<f:selectItem> 206
<f:selectItems> 207
<f:setPropertyActionListener> 207
<f:subview> 207
<f:validateDoubleRange> 208
<f:validateLength> 208
<f:validateLongRange> 208
<f:validator> 209
<f:valueChangeListener> 209
<f:verbatim> 209
<f:view> 209
JSF HTML Components 210
<h:column> 210
<h:commandButton> 210
<h:commandLink> 211
<h:dataTable> 211
<h:form> 211
<h:graphicImage> 212
<h:inputHidden> 212
<h:inputSecret> 212
<h:inputText> 212
<h:inputTextarea> 212
<h:message> 213
<h:messages> 213
<h:outputFormat> 213
<h:outputLabel> 214
<h:outputLink> 214
<h:outputText> 214
<h:panelGrid> 215
<h:panelGroup> 215
<h:selectBooleanCheckbox> 216
<h:selectManyCheckbox> 217
<h:selectManyListbox> 217
<h:selectManyMenu> 217
<h:selectOneListbox> 217

[ iii ]
Table of Contents

<h:selectOneMenu> 218
<h:selectOneRadio> 218
Additional JSF Tag Libraries 218
Summary 219
Chapter 7: Java Messaging Service 221
Setting Up GlassFish for JMS 221
Setting Up a JMS Connection Factory 221
Setting Up a JMS Message Queue 226
Setting Up a JMS Message Topic 227
Message Queues 228
Sending Messages to a Message Queue 228
Retrieving Messages from a Message Queue 232
Asynchronously Receiving Messages from a Message Queue 234
Browsing Message Queues 237
Message Topics 239
Sending Messages to a Message Topic 239
Receiving Messages from a Message Topic 241
Creating Durable Subscribers 243
Summary 246
Chapter 8: Security 247
Security Realms 247
Predefined Security Realms 248
admin-realm 249
The file Realm 251
The certificate Realm 265
Defining Additional Realms 273
Defining Additional File Realms 273
Defining Additional Certificate Realms 274
Defining an LDAP Realm 275
Defining a Solaris Realm 276
Defining a JDBC Realm 277
Defining Custom Realms 283
Summary 289
Chapter 9: Enterprise JavaBeans 291
Session Beans 292
Simple Session Bean 292
A More Realistic Example 295
Invoking Session Beans from Web Applications 298
Message-Driven Beans 301
Transactions in Enterprise Java Beans 302
Container-Managed Transactions 302
Bean-Managed Transactions 306
[ iv ]
 Table of Contents

Enterprise JavaBean Life Cycles 308

Stateful Session Bean Life Cycle 308
Stateless Session Bean Life Cycle 312
Message-Driven Bean Life Cycle 313
EJB Timer Service 313
EJB Security 316
Client Authentication 320
Summary 322
Chapter 10: Web Services 323
Developing Web Services with JAX-WS 323
Developing a Web Service Client 330
Sending Attachments to Web Services 336
Exposing EJBs as Web Services 339
EJB Web Service Clients 340
Securing Web Services 341
Securing EJB Web Services 343
Summary 345
Chapter 11: Beyond Java EE 347
Facelets 347
Downloading Facelets 348
Configuring Our Facelets Application 349
Writing a Facelets Application 351
Facelets Templating 359
Ajax4jsf 364
Downloading Ajax4jsf 364
Configuring Our JSF Application for Ajax4jsf 365
Writing an AJAX-Enabled Application with Ajax4jsf 366
Seam 373
Downloading Seam 374
Configuring a Seam Application 375
Developing a Seam Application 379
Summary 385
Appendix A: Sending Email from Java EE Applications 387
GlassFish Configuration 387
Implementing Email Delivery Functionality 391
Appendix B: IDE Integration 395
NetBeans 395
Eclipse 397
Index 403

[]
 Preface
Project GlassFish was formally announced at the 2005 JavaOne conference. Version
one of the GlassFish application server was released to the public approximately
a year later, at the 2006 JavaOne conference. GlassFish version one became the
reference implementation for the Java EE 5 specification, and as such, was the first
available application server compliant with this specification.

While releasing the first available Java EE 5 application server was a tremendous
accomplishment, the first version of GlassFish lacked some enterprise features such
as clustering and High Availability. GlassFish version 2, released in September 2007,
added these and other enterprise features, in addition to other features such as an
enhanced web based administration console.

This book will guide you through the development and deployment of Java
EE 5-compliant application on GlassFish version 2. It also covers application
development using frameworks that build on top of the Java EE 5 specification,
including Facelets, Ajax4jsf, and Seam.

What This Book Covers

Chapter 1 provides an overview of Glassfish, including how to install it, configure it,
and verify the installation.

Chapter 2 covers how to develop server-side web applications using the Servlet API.

Chapter 3 explains how to develop web applications using JavaServer Pages (JSPs),
including how to develop and use JSP custom tags.

Chapter 4 discusses how to develop Java EE applications that interact with a

relational database system through the Java Persistence API (JPA) and through the
Java Database Connectivity API (JDBC).
Preface

Chapter 5 explains how to use the JSP Standard Tag Library (JSTL) when developing
JavaServer Pages.

Chapter 6 covers how to develop applications using the JavaServer Faces (JSF)
component framework to build web applications.

Chapter 7 explains how to develop messaging applications though the Java

Messaging Service (JMS) API.

Chapter 8 covers securing J2EE applications through the Java Authentication and
Authorization Service (JAAS).

Chapter 9 discusses how to develop Enterprise Java Beans that adhere to the
EJB 3 specification.

Chapter 10 explains how to develop and deploy web services that conform to the
JAX-WS 2.1 specification.

Chapter 11 covers frameworks that build on top of the Java EE 5 specification,

including Seam, Facelets, and Ajax4Jsf.

Appendix A covers sending email from Java EE Applications.

Appendix B covers IDE integration.

Who is This Book for

This book is aimed at Java developers wishing to become proficient with Java EE 5,
who are expected to have some experience with Java and to have developed and
deployed applications in the past, but need no previous knowledge of Java EE or
J2EE. It teaches the reader how to use GlassFish to develop and deploy applications.

Conventions
In this book, you will find a number of styles of text that distinguish between
different kinds of information. Here are some examples of these styles, and an
explanation of their meaning.

There are three styles for code. Code words in text are shown as follows: "We can
include other contexts through the use of the include directive."

[]
 Preface

A block of code will be set as follows:

<head>
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<title>Server Date And Time</title>
</head>

When we wish to draw your attention to a particular part of a code block, the
relevant lines or items will be made bold:
</head>
<body>
<p>Server date and time: <% out.print(new Date()); %>
</p>
</body>

New terms and important words are introduced in a bold-type font. Words that you
see on the screen, in menus or dialog boxes for example, appear in our text like this:
"clicking the Next button moves you to the next screen".

Important notes appear in a box like this.

Tips and tricks appear like this.

Reader Feedback
Feedback from our readers is always welcome. Let us know what you think about
this book, what you liked or may have disliked. Reader feedback is important for us
to develop titles that you really get the most out of.

To send us general feedback, simply drop an email to feedback@packtpub.com,

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If there is a book that you need and would like to see us publish, please send
us a note in the SUGGEST A TITLE form on www.packtpub.com or email
suggest@packtpub.com.

If there is a topic that you have expertise in and you are interested in either writing
or contributing to a book, see our author guide on www.packtpub.com/authors.

[]
Preface

Customer Support
Now that you are the proud owner of a Packt book, we have a number of things to
help you to get the most from your purchase.

Downloading the Example Code for the Book

Visit http://www.packtpub.com/support, and select this book from the list of titles
to download any example code or extra resources for this book. The files available
for download will then be displayed.

The downloadable files contain instructions on how to use them.

Errata
Although we have taken every care to ensure the accuracy of our contents, mistakes
do happen. If you find a mistake in one of our books—maybe a mistake in text or
code—we would be grateful if you would report this to us. By doing this you can
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Questions
You can contact us at questions@packtpub.com if you are having a problem with
some aspect of the book, and we will do our best to address it.

[]
 Getting Started with
GlassFish
In this chapter, we will discuss how to get started with GlassFish. Some of the topics
discussed in this chapter are:

• An overview of Java EE and GlassFish

• Obtaining GlassFish
• Installing GlassFish
• Verifying the GlassFish Installation
• Deploying Java EE Applications
• Setting Up Database Connectivity

Overview of Java EE and GlassFish

Java EE (formerly called J2EE) is a standard set of technologies for server-side
Java development. Java EE technologies include Servlets, JavaServer Pages (JSPs),
JavaServer Faces (JSF), Enterprise JavaBeans (EJBs), and the Java Messaging
Service (JMS).

Several commercial and open-source application Java EE servers exist. Java EE

application servers, such as GlassFish, allow application developers to develop
and deploy Java EE-compliant applications. Other open-source Java EE application
servers include Red Hat's JBoss, the Apache Software Foundation's Geronimo, and
ObjectWeb's JOnAS.

Commercial application servers include BEA's Weblogic, IBM's Websphere, and the
Oracle Application Server.
Getting Started with GlassFish

GlassFish is an open-source, freely available, Java EE application server. GlassFish

is dual licensed under the Common Development and Distribution License (CDDL)
and the GNU Public License (GPL) version 2.

To find out more about GlassFish's license, see

https://glassfish.dev.java.net/public/CDDL+GPL.html.

Like all Java EE-compliant application servers, GlassFish provides the necessary
libraries to allow us to develop and deploy Java applications compliant with
Java EE specifications.

GlassFish Advantages
With so many options in Java EE application servers, why choose GlassFish? Besides
the obvious advantage of GlassFish being available free of charge, it offers the
following benefits:

• It is made by Sun Microsystems

° Sun Microsystems is the steward of Java language, and the
Java EE specification.
• Commercial support is available
° Sun Microsystems sells a re-packaged version of GlassFish
called the Sun Java System Application Server. Commercial
support is available (at a cost) from Sun Microsystems for this
re-packaged GlassFish version. Many software development
shops will not use any software for which commercial
support is not available; therefore commercial support
availability allows GlassFish to be used in environments
where it otherwise wouldn't be.
• It is the Java EE reference Implementation
° GlassFish is the Java EE Reference implementation. What this
means is that other application servers may use GlassFish
to make sure their product complies with the specification.
GlassFish could theoretically be used to debug other
application servers. If an application deployed under another
application server is not behaving properly, but it does
behave properly when deployed under GlassFish, then it is
more than likely that the improper behavior is due to a bug in
the other application server.

[]
 Chapter 1

• It supports the latest versions of the Java EE specification

° GlassFish is the reference Java EE specification, so it tends
to implement the latest specifications before any other
application server in the market.

Obtaining GlassFish
GlassFish can be downloaded from https://glassfish.dev.java.net by clicking
an image that looks like this:

The image should be near the top right window of the page.

After clicking on the image, and scrolling down to a section titled Binary builds
around the middle of the resulting page, you should see links to download GlassFish
for several different architectures. Currently Solaris Sparc, Solaris x86, Windows,
Linux, and MacOS are supported.

[]
Discovering Diverse Content Through
Random Scribd Documents
grandeur of the mountain-torrent, I should at that time have given a
preference to a little of the “mountain dew.”
Presently, I heard the shrill sound of the fife issuing from underneath
the sacks, to the tune of “Over the hills and far away,” and was
about requesting the driver to stop, until I joined my companion in
his lair, when a smart lash upon the flank of the near horse made
him dart off at a pace which defied all the efforts of the Welsh boor
to check. With his right arm holding fast by the front rail of the
caravan, he with his left pulled with all his strength to keep the
horses in the road, and we dashed along, first upon one side, and
then upon the other, for the middle was never kept, until I began to
look out for the most comfortable landing place. I then caught hold
of the near horse’s rein, while he tugged away at the other. The
seat was slippery, and the reins were wet, and our united efforts
would have failed in checking their speed; but espying a hill about
half a mile a-head of us,
“Now then, keep ’em together,” said I, “and let them have their race
out, for they must stop at yonder hill.”
All this time the fife was whistling like mad, “Go to the devil and
shake yourselves;” and Mr. Whiffler was luxuriating in blessed
ignorance of our danger.
Having made up my mind to the worst, but hoping for the best, I
regaled myself with a sup of brandy from the pistol at my side, and
then handed it to the driver, who drank—as if he liked it. We by this
time reached the foot of the hill, at the same slashing pace, and
began the ascent in a first rate style; but, when we had got about
half way up, we were startled by a loud cry behind us, and, upon
turning my head, I saw poor Mr. Whiffler seated in the middle of the
road, flourishing his musical cane, and shouting most vociferously
for us to stop. It seemed that he was amusing himself with his
favourite airs, and never felt the gradual retiring motion of the sacks
as we ascended the hill, until he was fairly shot out at the tail of the
van, where he lay sprawling; but, thanks to the friendly sacks,
unhurt.
Our frisky Flander’s steeds, coming to the push at the steep rising
ground, relaxed in their rapid course, became quiet as lambs, and at
the summit of the bill were very glad to come to a dead halt to
recover their breath; giving my musical friend ample time to come
up with us, which he had no sooner done, than, as if nothing had
occurred worth mentioning, he resumed his situation in the van, and
struck up “Drops of brandy.” I took the hint, and presented him with
my reserve, which he emptied with much apparent satisfaction, and
returned the flask with thankfulness. Then resuming his unwearying
amusement, he never ceased until we reached the inn at Corwen;
not the principal one, but a small house on the right of the street
opposite to the Owen Glyndwr; which latter has a gigantic head over
the door, much resembling the Saracen’s of Snow Hill notoriety.
I discovered the landlord of “The Welsh Harp” to be the proprietor of
the van, and that the driver was his son. He also followed the
occupation of watch and fishing tackle maker, and I willingly,
therefore, took up my quarters with this specimen of Welsh rusticity,
when invited, in preference to quartering at the great inn with the
great head, as also did Mr. Whiffler.
The first question put to the jolly landlord, was, “What can you give
us to eat?” It was about three o’clock in the day.
“Why, sir, I have a nice roast duck and some peas, which were
intended for John’s,” meaning our van-driver, “dinner; but I shall be
able to find something else for him.”
“And how long, pray, will it be before it is ready?”
“A quarter of an hour.”
“Very well, that will do; and, in the interim, I’ll borrow one of your
coats, and we will visit the church, if there is anything in it worth
looking at.”
No sooner said than done; and a large blue coat, with two heavy
capes, and brass buttons of the size of crown pieces, was
immediately brought forth, which I slipped into, it fitting me—like a
sack! No matter—my own was thoroughly drenched, and was
hanging before a blazing fire in the kitchen, reeking like a leg of
mutton, hot from the boiler.
“Would you like to slip into a pair of my leather breeches?” inquired
my hospitable host.
This I thankfully declined, upon looking at the difference of our
dimensions. My piping friend was comfortably seated in the chimney
corner, and observing “that he had never frequented church since he
was married, having received at that time a shock he could never
recover,” he commenced playing the beautiful air of “My ain fireside,”
whilst I, turning most heroically to the right about, again braved the
“pelting of the pitiless storm,” accompanied by John, our driver, who,
in a few minutes, conducted me to the ancient edifice.
On one side of the altar is the lid of a coffin, which has the following
inscription:

“Hic jacet Jorweth Sulien, vicarius de Corvaen ora pro eo.”

In the church wall is shewn the private doorway through which

Owen Glyndwr entered the building whenever he attended divine
worship, and in the rock, which overhangs the churchyard, there is a
recess, which bears the name of Glyndwr’s chair; and the stone
which now forms the lintel of the doorway leading to his pew, is said
to retain the mark of his dagger, half an inch in depth, which he
threw from the said chair; but upon what occasion it is not stated.
In the churchyard is a range of building called Corwen College,
having over the archway the following inscription:

Corwen College,
For six widows of the Clergymen
Of the church of England,
 Who died possessed of cures of souls,
In the county of Merionethshire.
Built and endowed
A.D MDCCL by the legacy of
William Egton Esq.
Of Plas-warren.

In the cemetery there is a cross, fixed in a circular stone, westward

of the steeple; and it is supposed that the name of Corwen is a
corruption of Corvaen, and derived from the cross. Cor signifies a
circle, and maen (which is likewise considered to have been changed
into vaen) if joined to cor, means a cross in the circle.
Having satisfied my curiosity here, I returned to the public house,
and the first object which met my delighted eyes was the promised
duck, accompanied by a dish of most elegant trout; a dainty for
which I had been longing ever since I entered this territory of rocks
and torrents. My friend was already placed at the table, and he
clapped his hands, and rubbed them with evident delight and
satisfaction at seeing me arrive so opportunely. The fish
despatched, duck and green peas in close column brought up the
rear. But I and my gallant comrade—a better trencherman ne’er
poised a fork—attacked in line, cut up the one, and routed the other,
with the most determined bravery. The right and left wings were
attacked and cut off from the main body, which with all its material
we dispersed in the glorious conflict, remaining masters of the field.
Although I thus warmly express my satisfaction at partaking of this
not easily-to-be-forgotten luxury, let me not be mistaken for a
gourmand; but a wet and tired traveller, however much his mind
may be enchanted by the scenery through which he passes, never
beholds a more delightful prospect than a comfortable meal at his
journey’s end. It so happened, however, that this was not to be my
journey’s end, for a blaze of light darted into the room at the
moment John had carried off the spoils from our field of battle, and
the glorious orb of day shone forth in cloudless majesty.
Wine in such a house, being out of the question, we ordered a jug of
warm punch, and having drank success to my musical friend in a
brimming goblet, I began to think, as my time was limited, and his
path lay towards Cerrig-y-Drudion, and mine towards Bala, I had
better reach that place before dark. My companion having divested
himself of his shoes and stockings, and adopted those of the
landlord, and feeling himself comfortable before the fire, resolved
upon remaining where he was until bedtime. Wishing him,
therefore, a pleasant evening, and a good night’s repose, I once
more took the road for another walk of ten miles; while I heard the
shrill sounds of his fife stick playing the Welsh air of “Farewell
Glanddyn.”
At the end of the village, I was attracted by the eyes of the prettiest
little Welsh lass that I remember having seen in the country. Health
bloomed in her cheek, and animation darted from her sloe-black
eyes. She was talking to a village lad, who appeared to be much
abashed by some reproof she had given him; and presently, with a
significant nod of the head and an admonitory glance of the eye, she
turned briskly from him, and frisked by me, humming a Welsh air—
the first that I had heard since I entered the principality—while the
youth, with a smile and a sigh, turned in a contrary direction,
exclaiming, “Ah, Jenny, if you refuse so many, you may happen to
pray for one yet.”
I afterwards discovered that the Welsh air was called after the
mansion of Mr. Edward Jones, the compiler of that most interesting
book of Cambrian lore, the Bardic Museum. I instantly determined
to put the idea I had formed in my mind of the Welsh lass into
verse, and to adapt the lines to the music. (See plate.) [143]
Every thing looked cheerful; the birds carroled joyously from the
trees and bushes; and I joined in the chorus. A robin appeared to
be much taken with my vocal powers, and for a good while kept me
company, alighting constantly some ten or twelve yards before me,
and listening attentively until I had passed as far; then, passing me
again in his flight, he took up his station as before. “Poor bird!”
thought I, “I remember in my boyhood I have followed some of your
race as eagerly as you now follow me; and my ears drank in their
notes, intoxicating my senses with delight. I shall never forget the
old mulberry tree that grew in our play grounds, shadowing a pretty
little hermitage in which I used to sit apart from my schoolfellows
and listen to the notes of that delightful warbler, with whom I grew
familiar, and fed every evening with crumbs of bread, saved from my
dinner.”
How extraordinary it appears that the past should always seem more
delightful than the present! I am convinced, that I was more
miserable during my school-boy days than I have been since, and
yet my mind returns to the brighter portions of the picture only. The
April beams that dried up the tears of my youth live in the memory,
while the clouds and showers are buried in oblivion. Youth, youth!—
why should we ever grow old? why are we not as fresh and green at
sixty as we are at twenty?—why may we not enjoy the blessings of
vigour, the elastic bound, the rosy tint, the boundless flow of spirits,
the freshness of imagination, until the moment when we drop into
the grave?—But sentimentalism is a bad subject for sale, and
therefore I have no business to introduce any chapters of such a
nature in this little work.
At a short distance from Corwen, a road branches off to the left,
along which the traveller should trudge to the village of Llandrillo,
and he will be repaid by the sight of one of the most fertile valleys in
Wales. It is a mile farther to Bala by this route, but the superior
beauty of the scenery will amply recompense him for the extra
distance; for, with the exception of a view of Bala lake, obtained
from an eminence on the road, which runs along the opposite side
of the valley, it is dull and uninviting. But, on the contrary, by the
Llandrillo route, the eye is delighted with a succession of scenes,
varied and interesting in the extreme. Huge masses of rock hang
over the road, upon the left, in threatening grandeur, while waving
woods, and falling streams, give endless variety to the picture.
After proceeding four miles, I crossed a bridge over a fine trout
stream, the banks of which are shaded with trees; and, turning into
an avenue upon the right, seated myself by the margin of the brook,
secured from the hot rays of the mid-day sun, and fancied myself
the melancholy Jacques. There only wanted a wounded stag, to
make the illusion perfect.
Here I was shortly after joined by an old man and his son, who,
after some hours’ fishing, had contrived to fill a moderately sized
basket with very fine trout. The father was tall and thin, with
prominent features, sharp grey eyes, and grey locks; his port was
erect, “stiff as a ramrod,” and if he had been unfortunate enough to
have had a lame leg, he would have made an excellent
representation of Corporal Foss. The son, a youth of about
nineteen, was clad in a suite of clothes so tattered, that my curiosity
was excited to learn at which rent he got into them. His fishing
basket was slung at his back, and his rod was composed of odds and
ends; his hat, from long exposure to the weather, had lost its crown,
while the rim was torn into ribands. If ever the god of love assumed
the disguise of ragged poverty, he could not have chosen a better
model, both in person and attire. His height was about five feet,
nine inches; his face a perfect oval; his hair, which stole in clustering
curls from beneath its wretched covering, was of the brightest
auburn; his forehead was broad and high; his eyebrows finely
arched, and his dark blue eyes were lighted up with the fire of
animation; his nose, teeth, and chin were perfectly beautiful; his
neck and shoulders would be invaluable to a sculptor; and his whole
graceful frame seemed formed for strength and activity. His
demeanour was respectful and modest, and the contrast between
the noble creature and his sorry garb was painfully striking. There
was, however, a look of independence and a freedom in his gait,
which suited well with the surrounding scene.
The old man seated himself near me, and lamented that he could
not obtain any fire to light his pipe. This element I quickly supplied
him with, and, lighting a cigar for myself, we resembled a knot of
Indian warriors smoking “the calumet of peace.” I entered into
conversation, offering my flask, by way of making a favourable
impression. They thankfully availed themselves of my offer, and my
expectations were not disappointed. The old man told me that he
had been a soldier in his youth, and fought in many battles, both in
Egypt and Spain, and was now in the receipt of a pension from
government, for honourable wounds, which at various times he had
received in the service of his country.
While his father whiffed his tobacco, the youth angled down the
stream, but soon returned and, respectfully and gracefully declining
my invitation to renew his draught, he stood looking down upon us,
his arms folded across his chest, embracing his rod, and listening
modestly to the old man’s narration. I sat an hour with these two
beings, and, having purchased a casting line and some flies from the
elder fisherman, he put two extra ones into my hands, saying:
“There, sir, are two flies, with which I killed some fine trout,
yesterday. I’ll make you a present of them; and, when you are
killing your fish, perhaps you’ll think of the old soldier.” So, with
mutual thanks, we parted.
As I entered the village of Llandrillo, I was much delighted with the
lively scene. The long street was crowded with peasantry, in their
holiday clothes. On each side were stalls, formed of tubs turned
upside down, and boards placed upon them, to support their
merchandise; square patches strewed with straw and covered with
crockery and glass; tables well stored with woollen hose and
mittens; and stands of gingerbread and ginger-pop were liberally
stationed in different quarters, to gratify and refresh the happy
throng. At times, a sudden opening in the crowd took place, the
whole mass of people jamming each other upon either side of the
street, to make way for a trotting pony, or an ambling nag, to curvet
and prance down the middle and up again, to show his paces. At
the upper end of the fair, a hardware man harangued a crowd of
people from his travelling warehouse (a covered cart,) endeavouring
to persuade them that he came to Llandrillo solely for their benefit,
and for no selfish motive upon earth, and labouring to convince
them, in brazier-like eloquence, that the articles he offered to their
notice were considerably under prime cost, and could not be
purchased elsewhere for treble the money;—but, though he sold at
a great sacrifice to himself, he begged them not to consider his loss,
but their own gain; such an opportunity would never again present
itself, therefore now was their only time to buy cheap!
A party of Welsh girls attracted my attention, gathered together in
front of a wall, upon which a line of men’s hats were ranged, of
various qualities and prices; and great glee and laughter were
elicited, as each fitted the new beaver upon her head, it being
considered the ne plus ultra of taste, and a powerful auxiliary to the
coquetry of a Welsh girl.
Leaving Llandrillo, and proceeding towards Bala, the traveller enters
the

VALE OF EDEYRNION.
The mountains here, upon either side, are covered with plantations,
and the beautiful Dee winds gracefully in the centre of the valley,
through delightful meadows, while corn fields wave upon the sloping
banks, and everything presents to the eye the appearance of
freshness and fertility, cheerfulness and content. At the bridge near
Llandderfel, a small village, which is first observed upon the opposite
bank of the Dee, a splendid view presents itself. The river here is
broad, shallow, and deep, by turns, and looking up or down the vale,
its meandering sportiveness charms the eye. At the extremity of the
valley is a lofty mountain, planted to the summit, which seems so
closely to envelop it, as to prevent all egress. To stand upon this
bridge at sunset, and listen to the whistle of the sheep boy as he
trudges merrily along the road, the song of the husbandman, or the
joyous laugh of the milkmaids—sounds that float upon the silent air
for miles, at such an hour,—the twittering of the birds, before they
hide their heads beneath their wings to seek repose—the low craik
of the rail, amidst the corn—and sweeter than all, the music of the
river, discharging liquid sounds from its transparent bosom,—creates
a sensation which we are at a loss how to express. Excess of
pleasure becomes painful; and, overpowered with delight, nature
asserts her influence, and we experience the luxury of tears!—at
least, I did, and I pity from my soul the man who is unfortunately
incapable of a similar feeling.
Passing through the little village of Llanver, and crossing a stream
over the bridge close by the lodge of Mr. Price of Rhewlas, I at
length arrived at the Bull’s Head in the town, to which house I had
been recommended by a passing traveller; and, tired with my day’s
exertions, called for a tea-dinner and slippers.

BALA.
Both these luxuries were furnished me by the fair hands of Martha
Jones, the landlady’s unmarried sister, a lively, black-eyed, pretty
lass, who, in being a spinster, proves that the Bala lads are greatly
deficient in taste, or that Martha has set her cap at something better
than is to be found in Bala.
Two gentlemen were seated in the room when I entered, each of
whom were discussing the merits of a glass of brandy and water.
One of them (a young man who I afterwards discovered was a
captain’s clerk in the East India service, upon leave,) was making
himself particularly entertaining to his companion, by relating a
number of anecdotes about a relative, a clergyman, whose residence
is somewhere in the neighbourhood.
“Ha! ha! ha! you remember the time when the dinner was given at
—; well, the old boy as usual, had got too much grog aboard, and
without a rudder, began to crowd sail for the stable—my eyes! how
he did traverse! but at last, a gale took his topsail right aback, and
capsising him into the kennel, he began to roar out for help. ‘What’s
the matter?’ cried twenty voices at a time. ‘Oh help! help me up,’
cried the old boy, ‘for I’m the Lord’s servant!’ ‘Ay, ay,’ cried one, ‘and
you’re like all the rest of ’em, want a good deal of looking after.’ Ha,
ha, ha!”
This anecdote, required another glass of brandy and water to wash
it down; which being brought, this irreverend humorist rehearsed a
number of other circumstances concerning his eccentric relative,
amongst which was a story of his ascending the pulpit, to preach a
sermon, “and kneeling down,” said he, “he placed his hand upon the
cushion, in the attitude of prayer, closed his port holes, and fell into
a—sound sleep! The congregation waited—and waited—until their
patience was quite exhausted, and one after another began to heave
anchor. The clerk, at last, ventured to awaken his pastor just in time
for him to see the last of his parishioners leaving the church.”
I was truly sorry to find, upon inquiry, that this was but too true a
tale of the old man, whose years are many, and who must be well
aware, that a very short time can elapse, before he will become a
tenant of the grave.
Wearied with the conversation, I rang for my bed candle, and retired
to rest.
 CHAPTER VI.

Bala—The Lake—A Meeting of Magistrates—The Doctor—Rhewlas

—Lines written at Rhewlas—Farewell to the Bull’s Head—A Jolter
—Llanthyn—Vale of Drwstynrnt—Legend of handsome Hugh and
the Fairy—Cader Idris—Dolgelley—Song “Mountain Mary”—The
Town Hall—Parliament House—St. Mary’s Church—Inns—Angling
Station, Doluwcheogryd—The Cataracts of Rhaiadr Du and Pistyll
y Cain—Nannau Park—Anecdote of Owen Glyndwr and Howell
Sele—Road to Barmouth—Arrival—Inns—A Walk on the sands.

“I lay on the rock where the storms have their dwelling,

The birth place of phantoms, the home of the cloud,
Around it for ever deep music is swelling—
The voice of the mountain wind, solemn and loud.”
Mrs. Hemans.

On the following morning, I found myself unable to walk, from the

effect produced by a sprained ancle, and I had the delightful
prospect of being confined to the room of an inn in a country town,
without a being to converse with, or a book to enliven me; but my
kind landlord, a fine portly, rosy-cheeked, round-headed, honest-
hearted Boniface, as ever drew spigot, kindly offered me a pony, to
take me to the lake, which, he said, contained plenty of perch. This
offer, I thankfully accepted, and, by the aid of mine host and his
ostler, was soon seated upon the back of a quiet not-to-be-put-out-
of-his-way animal, as any clerical gentleman could desire to ride
upon, and
 “With slow and solemn pace,”

proceeded to catch fish, and view the scenery around

LLYN TEGID, OR BALA LAKE.

Seated upon a rock that projects into the lake (under the shadow of
which is the boat house of Mr. Price, of Rhewlas, of whom, more
anon) I commenced my solitary pastime; but my eyes continually
wandered from the float, to the surrounding scenery, which is of a
pleasing rather than an imposing nature. The lake was slightly
ruffled by a refreshing breeze, which fortunately sprang up, and
prevented me from dissolving in the heat of the sun. It is about four
miles in length, and in some parts it is forty yards in depth. The
shores are sloping, the soil gravelly, and delightfully variegated with
plantations of trees and shrubs. Towards the head of the lake, the
mountains are upon a very grand scale, and rival Snowdon in their
altitude; Arran Fowddwy is the loftiest of these, near the summit of
which, upon its eastern side, beneath a huge crag, is situated a lake,
which affords excellent sport to the angler, although the fish are not
of the finest quality.
Arrenig Vawr, (or great), which is nearly as lofty as Arran Fowddwy,
and rises upon the N.W. side of the Llyn, has also a lake, containing
trout of a large size, which are noted for rejecting the artificial fly;
but, about half way up the Arrenig Vâch, (or little) is a lake, which
when a light breeze sweeps along its surface, will amply reward the
angler for his trouble, in reaching it. A morning, and an evening, at
each of these places, enable me to state thus much, for the benefit
of the disciples of Isaac Walton.
I was suddenly aroused from a dream of pleasure, which I was
enjoying, with my eyes open, by a tug at my line, reminding me,
that a fish had swallowed the hook. After a little coquetting, which
lovers usually make use of, I brought it to my arms, and then thrust
it into my bag; a fine perch! I now resolved, to begin in earnest,
and in an hour, by my temptation and insinuation, contrived to
obtain a very handsome dish, with which I returned upon my pony
to the inn, resigning them and myself to the care of Martha Jones.
This was the only uncomfortable evening I passed at the Bull—and
with respect be it spoken, all my uneasiness was occasioned, by the
magistrates of the county, who had met to discuss the important
business of their various districts, and to join in the

“Feast of dainties and the flow of port.”

All the while, the honest landlord, who resembled a “turtle on his
hind fins,” waddled about in high glee. It was a great day for the
Bull’s Head! and his joy resembled Dennis Bulgruddery’s, of the Red
Cow, when he saw a traveller on the heath, walking in the direction
of his long neglected hostelry. The confusion of sounds distracted
my brain, and I was almost tempted to exclaim, in the language of
Falstaff,

“Is hell broke loose?”

However, remembering that it was occasioned, by a meeting of

magistrates, my reverence for the laws, and the distributors of them,
made me place my disabled foot upon a chair, “like patience on a
monument, smiling at grief.”
I was informed that Mr. Price was among the assembly, to whom,
through the kindness of Mr. W—, I had a letter of introduction. My
accident, however, would prevent my dining with the party, and I
concluded it would be better to wait until the ensuing morning, to
pay my respects to him. A couple of ducks, with green peas, and a
pint of pale sherry, assisted to restore my good humour; and, after
poring over the pages of an old magazine, till the book became a
pillow for my head, I had my foot dressed and resigned myself to
the influence of Morpheus. My bed room window (the blinds of
which, I had neglected to pull down, before I retired to bed)
permitted the full blaze of the morning sun to shine upon my slothful
pillow, and rouse me from my slumber. A great fault, in all the
Welsh inns, is that Morpheus seems to have complete and
undisputed prevalence over the whole household. After satisfying
myself that I could walk across the room, I thought I would
endeavour to see something more of the town, and stroll about,
until such time as breakfast could be prepared. I accordingly
dressed, put on the spacious slippers I had been provided with on
the previous night, took a strong ash stick in my hand, by way of
crutch, and hobbled into the pure air.
The town of Bala consists of one long street, has about 2500
inhabitants, and is celebrated for its manufacture of woollen articles,
such as stockings, gloves, and, formerly, Welsh wigs. Upon an
eminence at the S. E. end of the town, the old women and young
girls assemble in considerable numbers during the summer months,
to pursue their industrious avocations in the open air. The mound is
called, Tommen y Bala; it is said to be of Roman construction; and,
from the summit, a very fine view may be obtained of Llyn Tegid and
the mountains. There is a town hall, and a chapel of ease to the
parish church at Llanycil, about a mile distant, where the morning
service is read in English only upon the first Sunday in each month.
Finding my exertion too great for my ease, I was glad to hobble into
the shop of the village apothecary and surgeon. It was half past
eight o’clock, and the drowsy shop boy, who appeared but recently
to have left his bed, informed me, that perhaps his master would be
down in a short time. This indefinite period did not suit my
patience, and I requested him to give his master a call. Still he
came not. I became fidgetty, and began to be indignant, half
resolving to leave the shop, when a little, stiff, consequential looking
personage made his appearance, gazing upon me with a look in
which much dissatisfaction was manifest. My travelling garb (for I
had not discarded my shooting jacket, at this early hour, in favour of
a more appropriate morning costume) did not inspire him with much
suavity; but, after a minute survey, he, with all the dignity of five
feet, pointed to a chair, which I a short time before had quitted to
look at some maps that adorned the walls of the room, I bared my
ancle for his inspection, and he informed me truly, that rest alone
could be of service to me. With this comfortable advice, which I had
previously determined not to follow, I returned to the inn,
breakfasted, ordered out the pony, and set off to visit Mr. Price, of
Rhewlas.
A handsome gateway opens into the grounds of Rhewlas; a neat
lodge is situated upon the right of the avenue, and upon the left, a
fine mountain stream dashes over its black, rocky bed. Half way up
the avenue, upon the right, is a beautiful dingle, over which a bridge
is thrown for the accommodation of passengers, and under it a
murmuring rill, glides on its course to the principal stream. A
profusion of rhododandrums, of a kind, are interspersed amongst
the trees, and shrubs, forming a delightful contrast. Here the noble
oak, the beech, and birch, flourish luxuriously in common with the
other numerous leafy tenants of the forest, whose ever varying hues
delight the eye.
The house is situated on a rising ground, backed by the mountain
and extensive woods, and commands a noble prospect.
After dinner, I accompanied Mr. Price in his phaeton, to take a survey
of the estate, and was much delighted with the evident pleasure he
took, in improving the roads in the neighbourhood. Under his
auspices, a new line of road is joined to Corwen, which, although
deficient in picturesque beauty, is shorter by one mile than that by
Llandrillo, and affords far better travelling.
Mr. Price has planted, during his residence at this lovely spot, no less
than 650 acres, and the domain altogether presents a picture of
beauty and happiness, seldom to be met with. He is much
respected; is a magistrate, and a resident; and, in consequence,
knows the value of his land. He considers, and administers to the
wants of his tenants, and, instead of extorting from them a rent they
would be compelled to starve themselves to pay, he limits it to a
sum which will enable them to live in comfort.
It was twilight when I left Rhewlas, and by the side of the dingle I
have before mentioned, I paused to gaze once more upon the
beauty of the scene, and traced a few lines, expressive of my
feelings, upon quitting so delightful a solitude.

Farewell to fair Rhewlas! and farewell to thee,

Thou pride of the vallies, thou fast flowing Dee!
Whose stream glides in brightness from Bala’s fair breast,
And wanders in beauty through regions of rest.
Farewell to thee, Rhewlas! how blest were my lot,
With friends round and near me, the gay world forgot,
Here, here, in the soft lap of quiet to dwell,
Farewell to thee Rhewlas! sweet Rhewlas, farewell!
The bright golden summer hath fill’d thee with glee—
The song of the thrush, and the boom of the bee,
The wild flowers’ fragrance, the breath of the rose,
And green woods that kiss the dark stream as it flows:
To scenes grand and gloomy my footsteps may stray,
Where terror frowns dreadful along the wild way,
But beauty for aye in this region shall dwell,
Farewell to thee, Rhewlas! sweet Rhewlas, farewell!
I returned to the inn, much pleased with my day’s entertainment,
happy to find that my ancle was comparatively easy, and ordered a
car to be ready on the following morning to convey me ten miles on
the road to Dolgelly.
Rising early, I found no inconvenience from my ancle; and, after a
good breakfast, took leave of my host, and his wife, of Martha
Jones, and the Bull’s Head, all of whom appeared anxious to see me
comfortably seated in the vehicle, and with kindest farewells,
expressed a desire of speedily seeing me again—all excepting the
Bull’s Head, poor thing, which being a dummy only looked a good
bye; and taking every thing into consideration, he looked it very
well.
The car in which I was bumped along the road, in every respect
resembled those delightful conveyances that rattle the astonished
traveller from Cork to Blarney. It is a sort of oval box, placed upon
two wheels, with a door behind, and with good wedging will contain
four persons; but being springless and cushionless, the passenger is
jolted to his heart’s content, that is, if his heart has been set on
jolting; and, without doubt, it is fine exercise for persons of
sedentary habits, if by any chance, their bones happen to escape
dislocation. My knapsack (my opposite, and only fellow passenger)
and I, looked very black at each other, as we bobbed up and down,
like a cockney grocer’s apprentice upon a high trotting horse; but I
soon became resigned, and my knapsack having shifted its berth for
the bottom of the vehicle, seemed to rest more comfortably than on
the seat. Notwithstanding the inconvenience I suffered from this
carriage, I could not help admiring the extreme beauty of the lake,
as we pursued our course along its borders; sometimes, only
catching a glimpse of it, through the trees that shaded its delightful
margin. Its waters were smooth and motionless; not a ripple was
visible upon its surface; the lofty mountains reflected in its breast
gave a sombre tinge to the otherwise golden scene, and, as I looked
into the clear depths of the shadows, I thought, how peacefully one
shattered by the storms of life might sink beneath, and be at rest!
After passing Llanthyn, (an estate belonging to Sir W. W. Wynn, who
claims the whole fishing of this beautiful piece of water, and has, by
putting a quantity of pike therein, destroyed all the trout and
gwynniad with which it once abounded), the scenery became wild,
and cheerless, until we reached

THE VALE OF DRWSTYNRNT,

where, to my great satisfaction, the car stopped at the sign of the
Welsh Prince, a distance of ten miles from Bala, and eight from
Dolgelly. Being thoroughly tired with my ride, I thought I would
endeavour to obtain the proper use of my limbs, and rest myself by
walking the remainder of the journey. Dismissing the car, therefore,
and strapping my knapsack to my shoulders, I once more took the
road.
About a mile beyond the Welsh Prince, the valley becomes truly
beautiful. Waving woods adorn the mountains upon either side.
The Wnion here begins to be an important stream; and, though in
its course towards Dolgelly it is swelled by numerous mountain
tributaries into a broad river, the trees upon its banks form an
impenetrable screen, which conceal it from the traveller, and its
hoarse murmur, as it dashes over the rocks that vainly endeavour to
intercept its way, alone remind him of its vicinity. At length, I arrived
at a spot, where a road leads over a bridge to the opposite side of
the river. Thinking this would be a proper place to see the Wnion to
advantage, I advanced to the centre of the bridge. The effect is
beautiful; hanging woods adorn the banks of the stream, lofty ash
trees, (around the trunks of which the ivy winds itself in snakelike
folds, feeding upon the tree that supports it), spread their proud
heads above, and form a pleasing shade, while below the river roars,
as it is precipitated beneath the arch in two large falls, that form a
deep pool on the opposite side.
“It was in that pool,” said a voice at my shoulder, “that Hugh Evans
first saw the fairy.” Upon turning round, I saw an old man, much
bent with age, knitting hose.
“What fairy, my good man?” said I, “and who was Hugh Evans?”
“Ah! you are a stranger here, sir. Why, it’s a tale my grandfather
used to tell me, of a lad, who worked with him in the fields yonder.”

HUGH EVANS, AND THE FAIRY.

Hugh was a handsome lad, and all the girls were mad for love of
him; but he was a prudent youth, and would not notice any of them,
for he thought as he could hardly earn enough to support himself,
he had no chance of supporting others. Well, one day as he was
returning from work, he leant over the bridge, where you are now
standing, sir, and what should he see, but a beautiful young
creature, bathing in the deep water there. Well, he knew it was a
fairy, for he never had seen any thing half so beautiful before; and
he couldn’t for the life of him take his eyes from her, though she was
as naked (saving your presence) as when she was born. She had
long black hair, streaming down her shoulders, as glossy as a crow’s
wing, and the smallest feet, and hands, he ever beheld! and the
beautiful fairy said to him, “Hugh, handsome Hugh, why did you
come hither? but, since you are here, turn your head aside, till I get
out of the stream, and then I’ll come and talk to you.” And Hugh did
as he was bid, for he was too much in love to deny her any thing;
and, before he could recover his surprise, there was the fairy, close
by his side, in the dress of a neat country lass. And her snowy feet,
and her raven locks, red lips, and sparkling eyes, made Hugh’s heart
knock at his ribs, like a smith’s hammer on the anvil. So what does
he do, but drop down upon his knees, and swore he was dying for
love of the angel. “I’m no angel at all,” says she, “but a foolish body
of a fairy, that has fallen in love with handsome Hugh, and, if you’ll
consent to my wishes in one respect, I’ll be a fond wife to you all the
days of your life.” Hugh was delighted to hear her talk, and he
promised to do every thing she wished. “All I desire,” said she, “is
that you will permit me to leave you every night at twelve o’clock for
one hour, and never attempt to follow me, or ask where I have
been. But, if you follow me, you will never see me again, and you
will only have to thank your own folly and rashness for it.” Hugh
promised faithfully, and the fairy provided him with money enough
to buy a neat little cottage on the hill yonder, and to stock it with a
cow, pigs, and poultry. He likewise bought ten acres of land, and
every body wondered how Hugh Evans became so rich on a sudden,
but they supposed it was his wife’s fortune, though they never could
find out who she was. For many years they lived together, and she
bore him two girls, both resembling the mother, and their comeliness
was the talk of the country. Marriage had no power to destroy the
beauty of the fairy’s form or face, for eternal youth and loveliness
were part of her portion.
But Hugh got jealous of a neighbour, whom he used to invite to his
house in the winter evenings, and he fancied that his wife paid him
more attention than was necessary. Until that time, he never cared
about her absence at midnight but the “green eyed monster;”
whispered to him that she had other than honest motives, for
absenting herself from home at that late hour. And one night, when
his neighbour, Davie Jones, happened to be more animated than
usual with the good woman his hostess, who was always desirous of
making Hugh’s friends welcome, he gave her a kiss at parting that
went to the heart of poor Hugh; and he determined to look after her
that night when she left his bed, to discover if his suspicions were
well founded. Accordingly, pretending to sleep, he watched his wife
when she rose up. The first thing she did was to go to her children,
whom she kissed, and by the light of the moon, which shone brightly
through the casement, he saw her suddenly (without the aid of toilet
labour) arrayed in a gossamer robe of rose coloured pink, through
which her beautiful skin was dimly perceptible, and her exquisite
form fully displayed to his astonished eyes; the right arm and breast
were bare, while the drapery was secured upon the left shoulder,
and at the waist with clasps of costly gems.
“Her black luxuriant ringlets, contrasted with her snowy neck, her
dark eyes flashing with delight, and her red pouting lips,” said poor
Hugh, “made me motionless with admiration, which was increased
by seeing her leap, through the open casement! Terrified lest she
should be dashed to pieces by the fall—filled with fury at her being
thus decked out to meet her paramour, with desperate eagerness I
darted out of the window in pursuit. The height was considerable. I
caught a glimpse in my descent, of her fairy form as she reached the
summit of the hill, and then all sense forsook me. When restored to
consciousness, I found myself stretched upon my bed; both my legs
broken by the fall, and my head sorely bruised. Upon asking for
Lleucu, my wife, I was told she had never been seen since I beheld
her. My friend Davie was attending me affectionately, bathing my
temples with cold lotions; and my heart smote me for my
suspicions. Night came, and, as the hour approached when Lleucu
departed, I became restless and feverish, when a voice, which I
knew to be Lleucu’s, entered my chamber; it sang as follows:

“Farewell Hugh, handsome Hugh,

Don’t forget thy poor Lleucu!
O’er thy limbs I spread a charm,
And to-morrow, free from harm,
To thine honest labour hie,
To support our progeny.
Oh, protect their tender years,
Bless my hopes and soothe my fears!
Farewell, Hugh, handsome Hugh,
Don’t forget thy poor Lleucu!”

“I would have given my life to have seen her again,” continued

Hugh; “but I lost her for ever. The next morning, faithful to her
promise, I was indeed perfectly free from pain; my limbs were as
strong as at the moment when I sprang from the window; but my
heart was broken.”
“May be, sir, you’d like to buy a pair of stockings or mittens,” said the
old man, without pausing to notice the effect his tale had upon me,
and pulling the articles out of his coat pocket as he spoke. I could
not resist the appeal, and, giving him the price he demanded, I
pursued my journey towards Dolgelly. Nearly the whole of this
lovely valley is the property of Sir Robert Vaughan.
I was meditating upon the romantic tale of the old man, when
suddenly a turn in the road and an opening in the dell revealed to
my delighted eyes the celebrated mountain called Cader Idris.

CADER IDRIS,
the loftiest mountain in Merionethshire, and the second in North
Wales, is said to be 950 yards in perpendicular height from Dolgelly
Green. Cader Idris literally means “Idris’s chair,” where he is
supposed to have studied astrology; and Idris is a name attributed
to Enoch, the founder of astronomy. Mr. Edward Jones, to whom the
public are indebted for his learned and ingenious work, entitled “The
Bardic Museum,” observes that “Cær Idris implies the city of the
learned:” and Mr. Rowland, in his “Mona Antiqua,” mentions a place
in Anglesea called Cær Idris, also Bôd Idris, or “Idris’s abode or
mansion,” in Yale, Denbighshire, which still retains the name, as well
as that of Llêch Idris, or “the shelter of Idris,” a farm so called, at
Trawsoynydd in Merionethshire, which also may imply the grave of
Idris. Idris is supposed to have flourished in the third or fourth
century, and his genealogy from an old manuscript, runs thus:
—“Idris Gawr ab Gwyddno, ab Tibion, ab Cunedda Wledig.”
Snowdon and Cader Idris were formerly supposed to be the
Parnassian hills of Wales, and none but good bards could claim so
elevated a seat.
Idris, the champion or bard, invented the harp; or, if the Gomerian
Britons brought that instrument into the country when they first
inhabited the island, it seems to have been lost and forgotten; for
Idris is said to have invented something similar; but it is probable he
only made some improvement on the ancient harp, or perhaps his
superior skill in performing on it might have gained him that
reputation. From all that can be gathered from tradition, he was a
learned man, an astrologer, and a bard; and it is likely that the
summit of this mountain was chosen by him, to examine from
thence the movements of the heavenly bodies, to write his inspired
verses, or to frame laws for the government and benefit of his
country.
The walk from this spot to Dolgelly is exceedingly beautiful; and as
the tourist approaches the town before crossing the bridge which is
flung over the river Mawddach, a sign of some importance attracts
his attention upon the right: it runs thus:

R. PUGH,
Guide General
To the Waterfalls, Cader Idris,
And all the curious scenery in
The vicinity of Dolgelly.
N.B. Licenced to let saddled horses.

DOLGELLY,
or Dolgellen, the Dale of the Hazel, is the principal market town in
Merionethshire, and the assizes are held here, alternately with Bala.
The town hall, the most important building, is a neat stone edifice,
erected in the year 1825, and cost £3000. It is built near the banks
of the river Wnion, (pronounced Oonion) and the court room is fitted
up with every necessary accommodation for the officers of justice.
In the hall is a very fine portrait of Sir R. W. Vaughan, Bart., painted
by Sir M. A. Shee, F.R.A.

Part of an old building, called “Cwrt Plâs yn-y Drêv,” or the Town-hall
Court is still remaining, amongst a range of wretched hovels, at the
back of the post office, in which a parliament was held by Owen
Glyndwr. The county jail at the outskirts of the town is of a
semicircular form, built of stone, and was erected in 1811, at an
expense of £5000.
St. Mary’s Church is a neat limestone edifice, of Grecian architecture,
with a handsome tower, and an expansive nave. In it is an ancient
monument of an armed knight, who is represented in a suit of mail,
helmet, a neck guard, a sword in his hand, and a dog at his feet; a
lion passant gardant is on his shield, upon which is inscribed: “Hic
jacet Mauric Filius Ynyr Vychan.” There is a modern one lately
erected to the memory of Baron Richards.
The town is celebrated for a manufacture of coarse woollen cloths
and flannels, called webs. The old town hall is used for various
purposes; English church service is performed there every other
Sunday; it is also used as a national school, and children are there
taught to sing the church psalms. It is likewise known as the
theatre, and a Mr. Glover (son of Mrs. Glover, of the London
theatres) is the manager. It is kept open sometimes for two months
successively; admittance to boxes 2s, pit 1s.
Those fond of fine scenery should ascend the mountain from the
north side of the vale, to obtain the best view of the town, as it lies
sheltered at the foot of the majestic Cader Idris, which rears its lofty
shoulders in the clouds.
Clustering woods adorn the opposite range of mountains, as they
slope in irregular masses westward to the ocean; and in the midst
may be distinguished the residences of Mr. Reveley and Captain
Anwyl.
The river beautifully meandering through the green meadows, the
solemn quietude that prevails around, disturbed only by the sound of
the church clock, marking the progress of the fleeting hours with
lengthened tone, which, like the music of another world, sweeps
through the enchanting vale, combine to render this a place where
those not wedded to routs, masquerades, gambling and
licentiousness, might wish to live and die.
Dolgelly contains several good inns, of which the most frequented
are the Golden lion, the Angel and the Ship. Comfortable lodgings
may likewise be obtained, at a cheap rate, by those who desire to
remain in the neighbourhood for the purpose of making excursions
to the falls, Kymmer Abbey, and Nannau Park, the fishing stations,
Dol y Gamedd on the Avon, Llyn Cregenan, Llyn Gador, Llyn Geirw,
Tal y llyn, &c. [176]

DOLUWCHEOGRYD,
the residence of Mr. Roland Williams, is delightfully situated on the
side of a mountain rising from this vale. I have read of a man who
made search through the world for true hospitality, and returned to
his cell without finding it. It is certain that he never entered the
abode of Mr. R. Williams, which is the habitation of unaffected
kindness, unpresuming intelligence, and unostentatious hospitality—
the retreat of peace, love and friendship, where the stranger is
received with warmth and cordiality, his wants anxiously anticipated
and administered to, where the cheerful glass is rendered doubly
valuable by the accompaniment of a hearty welcome, and where the
administering hands of the fair inmates render every species of
generosity doubly dear to the favoured individual who is admitted
into that happy sanctuary. The only feeling of regret I experienced
while at Doluwcheogryd was occasioned by the necessity of leaving
it so soon.
The tourist should not quit Dolgelly without visiting the waterfalls,
which, after heavy rains, are very magnificent. As I was still
suffering from the severe sprain, I was accommodated by Mr.
Williams, who also obliged me with his company, with a very fine
horse to carry me to the falls; and bold and sure-footed, he
performed his duty nobly, in spite of crags, cliffs, hills and hollows.
Passing the house of Miss Madock, daughter of the late William
Alexander Madock, Esq., we came to the cataract.

THE RHAIADR DU
is situated in the grounds belonging to this lady, called Dôl
melynllyn. Here the torrent leaps from a height of sixty feet over
precipitous rocks, and plunges with a violence that seems to shake
the crags and trees around, into a deep pool, from which it proceeds
adown the dingle, over black and broken fragments, to the river
Mawddach. A footpath conducts the tourist to the bottom of the
falls, from which, stepping upon some loose stones in the middle of
the stream, he will obtain the best view of the cataract. A walk of
about three miles brings him to the falls of the Mawddach and Pistyll
y Cain, returning from which, he may visit Y Vanner, or Kymmer
Abbey, founded in 1198, by Meredith and Griffith, lords of Merioneth,
dedicated to St. Mary, and inhabited by monks of the Cistertian
order. It is not now, however, worthy of the tourist’s attention. But
Nannau Park, the seat of Sir Robert William Vaughan, will afford
much pleasure to those who visit it. The grounds are thickly
wooded, and the mansion is supposed to occupy the highest ground
of any residence in Britain. The approach to it is five miles in length;
it stands 702 feet above the level of the sea; and the park is
celebrated for its venison. Previously to the year 1814, there stood
an oak in this park which bore a name terrible to the ears of the
peasantry: it was called

DERWEN CEUBREN YR ELLYLL,

which translated, means, “the hollow oak, the haunt of demons.” In
this oak, it is said Owen Glyndwr immured the body of Howell Sele,
the proprietor of this estate, who, while they were walking together,
treacherously shot an arrow at the breast of Glyndwr, who, however,
having armour beneath his doublet, fortunately received no hurt.
The cause of this treachery is said to have been the indignation
expressed by Owen at his kinsman’s refusal to join his cause to
redress his country’s wrongs. Glyndwr forced his body into the
hollow of this oak, most likely after having slain him, where, forty
years after this event, a skeleton was discovered. The chieftain,
after laying waste the mansion and domain of Sele, hastened to join
his friends. Sir W. Scott has written a very beautiful poem upon this
legend, which will be found in the fifth note to his sixth canto of
Marmion, and is called the “spirit’s blasted tree.” In 1813, this
monarch of the wood fell to the ground.
The country from Dolgelly to the mouth of the river is well worth a
journey of three hundred miles to visit, even though there were no
other objects worthy of notice in North Wales, and will amply
compensate the most eager researcher after the sublime and
beautiful.
At a turn of the coach road from a place called Te-gwyn, a splendid
view of Cader Idris is obtained, particularly in the evening, when the
mists arise from the numerous lakes in the vicinity, like volumes of
smoke from a domain of fire, curling in fantastic forms around the
mountain’s waist, leaving its summit stern and clear in an unclouded
sky—like a proud giant surveying with disdain the dwarfish host of
which he is the leader.

Thou mighty Cader, whose commanding head

Is alway canopied with winter’s snow,
Whose form is rent in many a chasm dread,
Adown whose sides the dashing torrents flow,
And in primeval majesty still throw
Their flakes of foam into the gulph below!
Mine eyes dwell on thy terrors, and my heart
Expands and trembles with a nameless glow!
Wildest of all the mountain kind thou art,
The rampart that protects old Cambria’s heart.
Land of the free! amid thy giant hills,
Whose regal heads appear to prop the skies,
Oh what a thrilling awe my bosom fills
While gazing on thy dark sublimities!
Mountains on mountains, peaks on peaks arise,
Like tents belonging to some Titan race,
Who choosing highest ground, nighest the God,
Again defy the thunderer, face to face,
From heights more vast than Alpine foot e’er trod,
And undismayed await his dreadful nod.

Another noble view attracts attention, at a place called Glan

Mawddach—the broad arm of the sea, stretching for miles between
the rugged mountains, which, shrouded in veils of silvery mist, fling
their dark shadows into the depths of the water. Proceeding
onwards, the seat of the late A. Wynne, Esq., called Athog, now the
residence of Mr. Fowden, becomes conspicuous upon the south side
of the mouth of the Mawddach, and beyond the extremity of the Bay
Celylin point, and the church of which the Rev. J. Parry is rector. The
bishop has the power of appointing a curate; but Mr. Parry retains
the tithes to himself. Arriving at

BARMOUTH,
the coach stopped at the Cors-y-gedol arms; but I proceeded to the
Commercial inn, where there is very good accommodation, and a
good look-out seaward. A warm bath of sea water refreshed me;
and by the star light I strolled upon the sands, which are very hard
and pleasant to walk upon, while my repast was preparing at the
inn. The night was calm and serene, and my mind naturally adapted
itself to the surrounding scene. “The brave o’erhanging firmament—
the majestical roof fretted with golden fire,” appeared to me far from
being “a foul and pestilent congregation of vapours.” My soul took
wing, and bounded from star to star, leaping the realms of space,
and plunging into infinity, till wearied with its immeasurable flight, it
resought its earthly tenement, and my body, which it left
immoveable, as if transformed to marble, resumed its functions.
The low moan of the ocean swam on my ear, like heavenly music. A
light breeze brought with it delicious freshness; and, as I looked
towards the land, all seemed as quiet as the abode of peace. The
lights from the houses had a pleasing effect, as they streamed
through the windows, row above row, under and upon the side of
the overhanging cliffs.
I returned to “mine inn,” and my meal being despatched, retired to
bed.
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