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C for Everyone 1st Edition Cay S. Horstmann Digital
Instant Download
Author(s): Cay S. Horstmann
ISBN(s): 9780470383292, 0470383291
Edition: 1
File Details: PDF, 20.74 MB
Year: 2008
Language: english
Preface http://edugen.wiley.com/edugen/courses/crs2656/horstmann3292/horstma...

This book gives an introduction into C++ and computer programming that focuses on the essentials—and on
effective learning. The book is suitable for a first course in programming for computer scientists, engineers, and
students in other technical or scientific disciplines. No prior programming experience is required, and only a
modest amount of high school algebra is needed. Here are the key features of this new book:

• A Visual Approach Motivates the Reader and Eases Navigation. This book
contains many more photographs, diagrams, and tables than other programming books. It is easy to get the
“lay of the land” by browsing the visuals, before focusing on the textual material.

Visual features help the reader with navigation.

• Guidance and Worked Examples Help Students Succeed. Beginning programmers

often ask “How do I start? Now what do I do?” Of course, an activity as complex as programming cannot be
reduced to cookbook-style instructions. However, step-by-step guidance is immensely helpful for building
confidence and providing an outline for the task at hand. The book contains a large number of “How To”
guides for common tasks, together with additional worked examples on the web.
• Practice Makes Perfect. Of course, programming students need to be able to implement
nontrivial programs, but they first need to have the confidence that they can succeed. This book contains a
substantial number of self-check questions (at the end of each section), simple programming assignments,
and an electronic test bank.
• Teach Computer Science Principles, Not Just C++ or Object-Orientation.
This book uses the C++ programming language as a vehicle for introducing computer science concepts. A
substantial subset of the C++ language is covered, focusing on the modern features of standard C++ that
make students productive. The book starts gently by showing how to use objects (in particular, strings and
streams). Then it takes a traditional route, stressing functions and procedural decomposition, before turning
to the design of classes in the final chapters.
• Focus on the Essentials While Being Technically Accurate. An encyclopedic
coverage is not helpful for a beginning programmer, but neither is the opposite—reducing the material to a
list of simplistic bullet points. In this book, the essential essentials of each subject are presented in digestible
chunks, with separate notes that go deeper into good practices or language features when the reader is ready
for the additional information. You will not find artificial over-simplifications that give an illusion of
knowledge.

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Preface http://edugen.wiley.com/edugen/courses/crs2656/horstmann3292/horstma...

The core material of the book is:

Chapter 1. Introduction
Chapter 2. Fundamental Data Types
Chapter 3. Decisions
Chapter 4. Loops
Chapter 5. Functions
Chapter 6. Arrays and Vectors
In a course for engineers with a need for systems and embedded programming, you will want to cover Chapter 7 on pointers.
Sections 7.1 and 7.4 are sufficient for using pointers with polymorphism in Chapter 10.

File processing is the subject of Chapter 8. Section 8.1 is sufficient for an introduction into reading and writing text files. The
remainder of the chapter gives additional material for practical applications.

Chapters 9 and 10 introduce the object-oriented features of C++. Chapter 9 contains an introduction to class design and
implementation. Chapter 10 covers inheritance and polymorphism.

Four additional chapters are available on the Web. They can be used individually for a capstone chapter, or they can be
combined for teaching a two-semester course. (They can also be incorporated into a custom print version of the text; ask your
Wiley sales representative for details.)

Chapter 11. Recursion

Chapter 12. Sorting and Searching
Chapter 13. Lists, Queues, and Stacks
Chapter 14. Sets, Maps, and Priority Queues

Figure 1 shows the dependencies between the chapters.

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Preface http://edugen.wiley.com/edugen/courses/crs2656/horstmann3292/horstma...

Figure 1 Chapter Dependencies

Appendices
Appendix A contains a programming style guide. Using a style guide for programming assignments benefits students by
directing them toward good habits and reducing gratuitous choice. The style guide is available in electronic form so that
instructors can modify it to reflect their preferred style.

Appendices B and C summarize C++ reserved words and operators.

Appendix D lists character escape sequences and ASCII character code values.

Appendix E documents all of the library functions and classes used in this book. An expanded version of this Appendix that
includes the functions and classes used in the four optional chapters, 11—14, is available on the Web and in WileyPLUS.

Appendices F, G, and H cover number systems, bit and shift operations, and a comparison of C++ and Java; all three are on the
Web and in WileyPLUS.

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Preface http://edugen.wiley.com/edugen/courses/crs2656/horstmann3292/horstma...

The pedagogical elements in this book work together to focus on and reinforce key concepts and fundamental principles of
programming, with additional tips and detail organized to support and deepen these fundamentals. In addition to traditional
features, such as chapter objectives and a wealth of exercises, each chapter contains elements geared to today's visual learner.

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Preface http://edugen.wiley.com/edugen/courses/crs2656/horstmann3292/horstma...

Special Features
Seven special features add detail and provide step-by-step guidance. Identified with the icons shown here, they are set off so
they don't interrupt the flow of the main material. Some of these are quite short; others extend over a page. Each topic is given
the space that is needed for a full and convincing explanation—instead of being forced into a one-paragraph “tip”. You can use
the tables on pages xxii—xxv to see the features in each chapter and the page numbers where they can be found.

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Preface http://edugen.wiley.com/edugen/courses/crs2656/horstmann3292/horstma...

The book is supplemented by a complete suite of online resources and a robust WileyPLUS course.

Student and Instructor Resources

The following resources for students and instructors can be obtained by visiting www.wiley.com/college/horstmann (or the
WileyPLUS course for the book). Two companion web sites accompany the book—one for students, and a password-protected
site for instructors only.

• Solutions to all exercises (for instructors only)

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Preface http://edugen.wiley.com/edugen/courses/crs2656/horstmann3292/horstma...

• A test bank (for instructors only)

• Lecture presentation slides that summarize each chapter and include code listings and figures from the book (for
instructors only)
• Source code for all examples in the book
• Additional worked examples and appendices (identified by an icon, )
• Four additional chapters on recursion, sorting and searching, and data structures
• The programming style guide in electronic form, so you can modify it to suit local preferences

Students can locate the Worked Examples and other content marked with a plus icon, , in the WileyPLUS course
or on the web site for the book at www.wiley.com/college/horstmann.

WileyPLUS

The first two pages of this book describe an innovative online tool for teachers and students: WileyPLUS is an online learning
environment that combines all of the resources of a learning management system with an ebook.

With WileyPLUS, instructors can manage reading and homework assignments, create tests, assign quizzes, and store results in
an online gradebook. A WileyPLUS adoption also enables students to purchase an eBook at a fraction of the price of the print
edition. In addition to the eBook, WileyPLUS integrates all of the instructor and student web resources into an online version
of this text. For more information and a demo, please visit the web site listed on pages i-ii, or talk to your Wiley representative.

Many thanks to Dan Sayre, Lauren Sapira, Lisa Gee, and Carolyn Weisman at John Wiley & Sons, and to the team at Publishing
Services for their hard work and support for this book project. An especially deep acknowledgment and thanks to Cindy
Johnson, who, through enormous patience and attention to detail, made this book a reality. We would also like to thank
Jonathan Tolstedt, North Dakota State University, for working with us to prepare the solutions.

We are very grateful to the many individuals who reviewed the book and made many valuable suggestions for improvement.
They include:

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Preface http://edugen.wiley.com/edugen/courses/crs2656/horstmann3292/horstma...

Charles D. Allison, Utah Valley State College

Fred Annexstein, University of Cincinnati

Stefano Basagni, Northeastern University

Noah D. Barnette, Virginia Tech

Peter Breznay, University of Wisconsin, Green Bay

Kuang-Nan Chang, Eastern Kentucky University

Joseph DeLibero, Arizona State University

Subramaniam Dharmarajan, Arizona State University

Stephen Gilbert, Orange Coast Community College

Barbara Guillott, Louisiana State University

Jon Hanrath, Illinois Institute of Technology

Neil Harrison, Utah Valley University

Debbie Kaneko, Old Dominion University

Mir Behrad Khamesee, University of Waterloo

Sung-Sik Kwon, North Carolina Central University

W. James MacLean, University of Toronto

Ethan V. Munson, University of Wisconsin, Milwaukee

Philip Regalbuto, Trident Technical College

John P. Russo, Wentworth Institute of Technology

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Preface http://edugen.wiley.com/edugen/courses/crs2656/horstmann3292/horstma...

Kurt Schmidt, Drexel University

William Shay, University of Wisconsin, Green Bay

Michele A. Starkey, Mount Saint Mary College

William Stockwell, University of Central Oklahoma

Jonathan Tolstedt, North Dakota State University

Kerstin Voigt, California State University, San Bernardino

David P. Voorhees, Le Moyne College

Salih Yurttas, Texas A&M University

Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.

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Chapter Goals To learn abo ... http://edugen.wiley.com/edugen/courses/crs2656/horstmann3292/horstma...

Chapter

Chapter Goals

• To learn about the architecture of computers

• To learn about machine languages and higher-level programming languages
• To become familiar with your compiler
• To compile and run your first C++ program
• To recognize syntax and logic errors
• To understand the notion of an algorithm
• To understand the activity of programming

This chapter contains a brief introduction to the architecture of computers and an overview of programming
languages. You will learn about the activity of programming: how to write and run your first C++ program, how
to diagnose and fix programming errors, and how to plan your programming activities.

Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.

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What is a Computer? http://edugen.wiley.com/edugen/courses/crs2656/horstmann3292/horstma...

You have probably used a computer for work or fun. Many people use computers for everyday tasks such as electronic banking
or writing a term paper. Computers are good for such tasks. They can handle repetitive chores, such as totaling up numbers or
placing words on a page, without getting bored or exhausted.

Computers execute very basic operations in rapid

succession.

The flexibility of a computer is quite an amazing phenomenon. The same machine can balance your checkbook, print your term
paper, and play a game. In contrast, other machines carry out a much narrower range of tasks; a car drives and a toaster toasts.
Computers can carry out a wide range of tasks because they execute different programs, each of which directs the computer to
work on a specific task.

The computer itself is a machine that stores data (numbers, words, pictures), interacts with devices (the monitor, the sound
system, the printer), and executes programs. A computer program tells a computer, in minute detail, the sequence of steps that
are needed to fulfill a task. The physical computer and peripheral devices are collectively called the hardware. The programs
the computer executes are called the software.

A computer program is a sequence of instructions and

decisions.

Today's computer programs are so sophisticated that it is hard to believe that they are composed of extremely primitive
operations. A typical operation may be one of the following:

• Put a red dot at this screen position.

• Add up these two numbers.
• If this value is negative, continue the program at a certain instruction.
The computer user has the illusion of smooth interaction because a program contains a huge number of such operations, and
because the computer can execute them at great speed.

The act of designing and implementing computer programs is called programming. In this book, you will learn how to
program a computer—that is, how to direct the computer to execute tasks.

Programming is the act of designing and implementing

computer programs.

To write a computer game with motion and sound effects or a word processor that supports fancy fonts and pictures is a
complex task that requires a team of many highly skilled programmers. Your first programming efforts will be more mundane.
The concepts and skills you learn in this book form an important foundation, and you should not be disappointed if your first
programs do not rival the sophisticated software that is familiar to you. Actually, you will find that there is an immense thrill
even in simple programming tasks. It is an amazing experience to see the computer precisely and quickly carry out a task that
would take you hours of drudgery, to make small changes in a program that lead to immediate improvements, and to see the
computer become an extension of your mental powers.

Self Check

1. What is required to play music on a computer?

2. Why is a CD player less flexible than a computer?
3. What does a computer user need to know about programming in order to play a video game?

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The Anatomy of a Computer http://edugen.wiley.com/edugen/courses/crs2656/horstmann3292/horstma...

To understand the programming process, you need to have a rudimentary understanding of the building blocks that make up a
computer. We will look at a personal computer. Larger computers have faster, larger, or more powerful components, but they
have fundamentally the same design.

At the heart of the computer lies the central processing unit (CPU) (see Figure 1). It consists of a single chip, or a small
number of chips. A computer chip (integrated circuit) is a component with a plastic or metal housing, metal connectors, and
inside wiring made principally from silicon. For a CPU chip, the inside wiring is enormously complicated. For example, the
Pentium chip (a popular CPU for personal computers at the time of this writing) is composed of several million structural
elements, called transistors.

Figure 1 Central Processing Unit

Copyright © 2008, Intel Corporation.

The CPU performs program control and data processing. That is, the CPU locates and executes the program instructions; it
carries out arithmetic operations such as addition, subtraction, multiplication, and division; it fetches data from external
memory or devices and stores data back. All data must travel through the CPU whenever it is moved from one location to
another.

The central processing unit (CPU) performs program

control and data processing.

The computer stores data and programs in memory. There are two kinds of memory. Primary storage is made from memory
chips: random-access memory (RAM) and read-only memory (ROM). Read-only memory contains certain programs that must
always be present—for example, the code needed to start the computer. Random-access memory might have been better called
“read-write memory”, because the CPU can read data from it and write data back to it. That makes RAM suitable to hold
changing data and programs that do not have to be available permanently. RAM memory has two disadvantages. It is
comparatively expensive, and it loses all its data when the power is turned off. Secondary storage, usually a hard disk (see
Figure 2), provides less expensive storage that persists without electricity. A hard disk consists of rotating platters, which are
coated with a magnetic material, and read/write heads, which can detect and change the magnetic flux on the platters. Programs
and data are typically stored on the hard disk and loaded into RAM when the program starts. The program then updates the data
in RAM and writes the modified data back to the hard disk.

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The Anatomy of a Computer http://edugen.wiley.com/edugen/courses/crs2656/horstmann3292/horstma...

Figure 2 A Hard Disk

PhotoDisc, Inc./Getty Images.

Storage devices include random-access memory

(RAM) and secondary storage.

To interact with a human user, a computer requires peripheral devices. The computer transmits information (called output) to
the user through a display screen, speakers, and printers. The user can enter information (called input) for the computer by
using a keyboard or a pointing device such as a mouse.

Some computers are self-contained units, whereas others are interconnected through networks. Through the network cabling,
the computer can read data and programs from central storage locations or send data to other computers. For the user of a
networked computer it may not even be obvious which data reside on the computer itself and which are transmitted through the
network.

Figure 3 gives a schematic overview of the architecture of a personal computer. Program instructions and data (such as text,
numbers, audio, or video) are stored on the hard disk, on a CD-ROM, or elsewhere on the network. When a program is started,
it is brought into RAM memory, from where the CPU can read it. The CPU reads the program one instruction at a time. As
directed by these instructions, the CPU reads data, modifies it, and writes it back to RAM memory or the hard disk. Some
program instructions will cause the CPU to place dots on the display screen or printer or to vibrate the speaker. As these
actions happen many times over and at great speed, the human user will perceive images and sound. Some program instructions
read user input from the keyboard or mouse. The program analyzes the nature of these inputs and then executes the next
appropriate instructions.

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The Anatomy of a Computer http://edugen.wiley.com/edugen/courses/crs2656/horstmann3292/horstma...

Figure 3 Schematic Design of a Personal Computer

Self Check

4. Where is a program stored when it is not currently running?

5. Which part of the computer carries out arithmetic operations, such as addition and multiplication?

Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.

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RANDOM FACT 1.1 The ENIAC and the Dawn of Computing http://edugen.wiley.com/edugen/courses/crs2656/horstmann3292/horstma...

Random Fact 1.1

RANDOM FACT 1.1 The ENIAC and the Dawn of Computing

The ENIAC (electronic numerical integrator and computer) was the first usable electronic computer. It was
designed by J. Presper Eckert and John Mauchly at the University of Pennsylvania and was completed in 1946—two
years before transistors were invented. The computer was housed in a large room and consisted of many cabinets
containing about 18,000 vacuum tubes (see Figure 4). Vacuum tubes burned out at the rate of several tubes per day.
An attendant with a shopping cart full of tubes constantly made the rounds and replaced defective ones. The
computer was programmed by connecting wires on panels. Each wiring configuration would set up the computer
for a particular problem. To have the computer work on a different problem, the wires had to be replugged.

Figure 4 The ENIAC

Courtesy of Sperry Univac, Division of Sperry Corporation.

Work on the ENIAC was supported by the U.S. Navy, which was interested in computations of ballistic tables that
would give the trajectory of a projectile, depending on the wind resistance, initial velocity, and atmospheric
conditions. To compute the trajectories, one must find the numerical solutions of certain differential equations;
hence the name “numerical integrator”. Before machines like the ENIAC were developed, humans did this kind of
work, and until the 1950s the word “computer” referred to these people. The ENIAC was later used for peaceful
purposes such as the tabulation of U.S. Census data.

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Machine Code and Programming Languages http://edugen.wiley.com/edugen/courses/crs2656/horstmann3292/horstma...

On the most basic level, computer instructions are extremely primitive. The processor executes machine instructions. A
typical sequence of machine instructions is

1. Move the contents of memory location 40000 into the CPU.

2. If that value is > 100, continue with the instruction that is stored in memory location 11280.

Actually, machine instructions are encoded as numbers so that they can be stored in memory. On a Pentium processor, this
sequence of instruction is encoded as the sequence of numbers

Computer programs are stored as machine instructions

in a code that depends on the processor type.

On a processor from a different manufacturer, the encoding would be different. When this kind of processor fetches this
sequence of numbers, it decodes them and executes the associated sequence of commands.

How can we communicate the command sequence to the computer? The simplest method is to place the actual numbers into
the computer memory. This is, in fact, how the very earliest computers worked. However, a long program is composed of
thousands of individual commands, and it is a tedious and error-prone affair to look up the numeric codes for all commands
and place the codes manually into memory. As already mentioned, computers are really good at automating tedious and
error-prone activities. It did not take long for computer programmers to realize that the computers themselves could be
harnessed to help in the programming process.

A special computer program, a compiler, translates the higher-level description into machine instructions for a particular
processor.

For example, in C++ , the high-level programming language that we will use in this book, you might give the following
instruction:

This means, “If the interest rate is over 100, display an error message”. It is then the job of the compiler program to look at
each C++ instruction and translate it into the machine instructions for the particular processor.

High-level languages are independent of the underlying hardware. C++ instructions work equally well on an Intel Pentium and
a processor in a cell phone. Of course, the compiler-generated machine instructions are different, but the programmer who uses
the compiler need not worry about these differences.

High-level programming languages are independent of

the processor.

Self Check

6. Is the compiler a part of the computer hardware or software?

7. Does a person who uses a computer for office work ever run a compiler?

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The Evolution of C++ http://edugen.wiley.com/edugen/courses/crs2656/horstmann3292/horstma...

C++ is built upon the C programming language, which was developed to be translated into fast machine code with a minimum
of housekeeping overhead. C++ built on C by adding features for “object-oriented programming”, a programming style that
enables modeling of real-world objects.

The initial version of the C language was designed about 1972. Additional features were added to it over the years. Because
different compiler writers added different features, the language actually sprouted various dialects. Some programming
instructions were understood by one compiler but rejected by another. Such divergence is a major obstacle to a programmer
who wants to move code from one computer to another. An effort got underway to iron out the differences and come up with a
standard version of C. The design process ended in 1989 with the completion of the ANSI (American National Standards
Institute) standard. In the meantime, Bjarne Stroustrup of AT&T added features of the language Simula (an object-oriented
language designed for carrying out simulations) to C. The resulting language was called C++.

From 1985 until today, C++ has grown by the addition of many features. A standardization process culminated in the
publication of the international C++ standard in 1998. A minor update to the standard was issued in 2003, and a major
revision is expected to come to fruition around 2010.

At this time, C++ is the most commonly used language for developing system software such as databases and operating
systems. Just as importantly, C++ is increasingly used for programming “embedded systems”, small computers that control
devices such as automobile engines or cellular telephones.

C++ is a general-purpose language that is in

widespread use for systems and embedded
programming.

Self Check

8. What was added to the C language to create C++?

9. What are the most important uses for C++?

Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.

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RANDOM FACT 1.2 Standards Organizations http://edugen.wiley.com/edugen/courses/crs2656/horstmann3292/horstma...

Random Fact 1.2

RANDOM FACT 1.2 Standards Organizations

Two organizations, the American National Standards Institute (ANSI) and the International Organization for
Standardization (ISO), have jointly developed the definitive standard for the C++ language.

iStockphoto.

Why have standards? You encounter the benefits of standardization every day. When you buy a light bulb, you can
be assured that it fits in the socket without having to measure the socket at home and the bulb in the store. In fact,
you may have experienced how painful the lack of standards can be if you have ever purchased a flashlight with
nonstandard bulbs. Replacement bulbs for such a flashlight can be difficult and expensive to obtain.

The ANSI and ISO standards organizations are associations of industry professionals who develop standards for
everything from car tires and credit card shapes to programming languages. Having a standard for a programming
language such as C++ means that you can take a program that you developed on one system with one
manufacturer's compiler to a different system and be assured that it will continue to work.

Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.

1 of 1 2/1/2010 8:29 AM
Discovering Diverse Content Through
Random Scribd Documents
proprietors, or their stewards. How much is the delight of looking
upon plenteousness lessened by the belief, that it supplies the
means of excess to a few, but denies those of competence to many!

Between this pass of cultivated steeps on one side of the river, and
of romantic rocks on the other, the road continues for several miles.
Being thus commanded on both sides, it must be one of the most
difficult passages in Europe to an enemy, if resolutely defended. The
Rhine, pent between these impenetrable boundaries, is considerably
narrower here than in other parts of the valley, and so rapid, that a
loaded vessel can seldom be drawn faster than at the rate of six
English miles a day, against the stream. The passage down the river
from Mentz to Cologne may be easily performed in two days; that
from Cologne to Mentz requires a fortnight.

The view along this pass, though bounded, is various and

changeful. Villages, vineyards and rocks alternately ornament the
borders of the river, and every fifty yards enable the eye to double
some massy projection that concealed the fruitful bay behind. An
object at the end of the pass is presented singly to the sight as
through an inverted telescope. The surface of the water, or the
whole stillness of the scene, was very seldom interrupted by the
passing of a boat; carriages were still fewer; and, indeed,
throughout Germany, you will not meet more than one in twenty
miles. Travelling is considered by the natives, who know the fatigue
of going in carriages nearly without springs, and stopping at inns
where there is little of either accommodation or civility, as productive
of no pleasure; and they have seldom curiosity or business enough
to recompense for its inconveniences.

We passed through two or three small towns, whose ruined gates

and walls told of their antiquity, and that they had once been held of
some consequence in the defence of the valley. Their present
desolation formed a melancholy contrast with the cheerful cultivation
around them. These, however, with every village in our way, were
decorated with green boughs, planted before the door of each
cottage, for it was a day of festival. The little chapels at the road-
side, and the image, which, every now and then, appeared under a
spreading tree, were adorned with wreaths of fresh flowers; and
though one might smile at the emblems of superstition, it was
impossible not to reverence the sentiment of pious affection, which
had adjusted these simple ornaments.

About half-way to Andernach, the western rocks suddenly recede

from the river, and, rising to greater height, form a grand sweep
round a plain cultivated with orchards, garden-fields, corn and
vineyards. The valley here spreads to a breadth of nearly a mile and
an half, and exhibits grandeur, beauty and barren sublimity, united in
a singular manner. The abrupt steeps, that rise over this plain, are
entirely covered with wood, except that here and there the ravage of
a winter torrent appeared, which could sometimes be traced from
the very summit of the acclivity to the base. Near the centre, this
noble amphitheatre opens to a glen, that shews only wooded
mountains, point above point, in long perspective; such sylvan pomp
we had seldom seen! But though the tuftings of the nearer woods
were beautifully luxuriant, there seemed to be few timber trees
amongst them. The opposite shore exhibited only a range of rocks,
variegated like marble, of which purple was the predominating tint,
and uniformly disposed in vast, oblique strata. But even here, little
green patches of vines peeped among the cliffs, and were led up
crevices where it seemed as if no human foot could rest. Along the
base of this tremendous wall, and on the points above, villages, with
each its tall, grey steeple, were thickly strewn, thus mingling in
striking contrast the cheerfulness of populous inhabitation with the
horrors of untamed nature. A few monasteries, resembling castles in
their extent, and known from such only by their spires, were
distinguishable; and, in the widening perspective of the Rhine, an
old castle itself, now and then, appeared on the summit of a
mountain somewhat remote from the shore; an object rendered
sweetly picturesque, as the sun's rays lighted up its towers and
fortified terraces, while the shrubby steeps below were in shade.
 We saw this landscape under the happiest circumstances of
season and weather; the woods and plants were in their midsummer
bloom, and the mellow light of evening heightened the richness of
their hues, and gave exquisite effect to one half of the amphitheatre
we were passing, while the other half was in shadow. The air was
scented by bean-blossoms, and by lime-trees then in flower, that
bordered the road. If this plain had mingled pasture with its groves,
it would have been truly Arcadian; but neither here, nor through the
whole of this delightful valley, did we see a single pasture or
meadow, except now and then in an island on the Rhine;
deficiencies which are here supplied, to the lover of landscape, by
the verdure of the woods and vines. In other parts of Germany they
are more to be regretted, where, frequently, only corn and rock
colour the land.

Fatigued at length by such prodigality of beauty, we were glad to

be shrouded awhile from the view of it, among close boughs, and to
see only the wide rivulets, with their rustic bridges of faggots and
earth, that, descending from among the mountains, frequently
crossed our way; or the simple peasant-girl, leading her cows to
feed on the narrow stripe of grass that margined the road. The little
bells, that jingled at their necks, would not suffer them to stray
beyond her hearing. If we had not long since dismissed our surprise
at the scarcity and bad quality of cheese and butter in Germany, we
should have done so now, on perceiving this scanty method of
pasturing the cattle, which future observation convinced us was the
frequent practice.

About sun-set we reached the little village of Namedy, seated near

the foot of a rock, round which the Rhine makes a sudden sweep,
and, contracted by the bold precipices of Hammerstein on the
opposite shore, its green current passes with astonishing rapidity
and sounding strength. These circumstances of scenery, with the tall
masts of vessels lying below the shrubby bank, on which the village
stands, and seeming to heighten by comparison the stupendous
rocks, that rose around them; the moving figures of boatmen and
horses employed in towing a barge against the stream, in the bay
beyond; and a group of peasants on the high quay, in the fore
ground, watching their progress; the ancient castle of Hammerstein
overlooking the whole—these were a combination of images, that
formed one of the most interesting pictures we had seen.

The valley again expanding, the walls and turrets of Andernach,

with its Roman tower rising independently at the foot of a mountain,
and the ruins of its castle above, appeared athwart the perspective
of the river, terminating the pass; for there the rocky boundary
opened to plains and remote mountains. The light vapour, that rose
from the water, and was tinged by the setting rays, spread a purple
haze over the town and the cliffs, which, at this distance, appeared
to impend over it; colouring extremely beautiful, contrasted as it was
by the clearer and deeper tints of rocks, wood and water nearer to
the eye.

As we approached Andernach, its situation seemed to be

perpetually changing, with the winding bank. Now it appeared
seated on a low peninsula, that nearly crossed the Rhine, overhung
by romantic rocks; but this vision vanished as we advanced, and we
perceived the town lying along a curving shore, near the foot of the
cliffs, which were finely fringed with wood, and at the entrance of
extensive plains. Its towers seen afar, would be signs of a
considerable place, to those who had not before been wearied of
such symptoms by the towers of Neuss, and other German towns.
From a wooded precipice over the river we had soon after a fine
retrospective glimpse of the valley, its fantastic shores, and long
mountainous distance, over which evening had drawn her sweetest
colouring. As we pursued the pass, the heights on either hand
gradually softened; the country beyond shewed remote mountains
less wild and aspiring than those we had left, and the blooming tint,
which had invested the distance, deepened to a dusky purple, and
then vanished in the gloom of twilight. The progressive influence of
the hour upon the landscape was interesting; and the shade of
evening, under which we entered Andernach, harmonized with the
desolation and silence of its old walls and the broken ground around
them. We passed a drawbridge and a ruinous gateway, and were
sufficiently fatigued to be somewhat anxious as to our
accommodation. The English habit of considering, towards the end
of the day's journey, that you are not far from the cheerful
reception, the ready attendance, and the conveniences of a
substantial inn, will soon be lost in Germany. There, instead of being
in good spirits, during the last stage, from such a prospect, you have
to consider, whether you shall find a room, not absolutely disgusting,
or a house with any eatable provision, or a landlady, who will give it
you, before the delay and the fatigue of an hundred requests have
rendered you almost incapable of receiving it. When your carriage
stops at the inn, you will perhaps perceive, instead of the alacrity of
an English waiter, or the civility of an English landlord, a huge figure,
wrapt in a great coat, with a red worsted cap on his head, and a
pipe in his mouth, stalking before the door. This is the landlord. He
makes no alteration in his pace on perceiving you, or, if he stops, it
is to eye you with curiosity; he seldom speaks, never bows, or
assists you to alight; and perhaps stands surrounded by a troop of
slovenly girls, his daughters, whom the sound of wheels has brought
to the door, and who, as they lean indolently against it, gaze at you
with rude curiosity and surprise.

The drivers in Germany are all bribed by the innkeepers, and,

either by affecting to misunderstand you, or otherwise, will
constantly stop at the door, where they are best paid. That this
money comes out of your pocket the next morning is not the
grievance; the evil is, that the worst inns give them the most, and a
traveller, unless he exactly remembers his directions, is liable to be
lodged in all the vilest rooms of a country, where the best hotels
have no lodging so clean and no larder so wholesomely filled as
those of every half-way house between London and Canterbury.
When you are within the inn, the landlord, who is eager to keep,
though not to accommodate you, will affirm, that his is the inn you
ask for, or that the other sign is not in the place; and, as you soon
learn to believe any thing of the wretchedness of the country, you
are unwilling to give up one lodging, lest you should not find
another.

Our driver, after passing a desolate, half filled place, into which the
gate of Andernach opened, entered a narrow passage, which
afterwards appeared to be one of the chief streets of the place. Here
he found a miserable inn, and declared that there was no other; but,
as we had seen one of a much better appearance, we were at length
brought to that, and, though with some delay, were not ill
accommodated, for the night.

Andernach is an antient town, and it is believed, that a tower,

which stands alone, at one end of the walls, was built by Drusus, of
whom there are many traces in walls and castles, intended to defend
the colonies, on this side of the Rhine, against the Germans, on the
other. The fortifications can now be of little other use than to
authorise the toll, which travellers pay, for entering a walled town; a
tax, on account of which many of the walls are supported, though it
is pretended, that the tax is to support the walls. By their means
also, the Elector of Cologne collects here the last of four payments,
which he demands for the privilege of passing the Rhine from
Urdingen to Andernach; and this is the most Southern frontier town
of his dominions on the western side of the Rhine, which soon after
join those of the Elector of Treves. Their length from hence to
Rheinberg is not less than ninety miles; the breadth probably never
more than twenty.

There is some trade, at Andernach, in tiles, timber, and mill-

stones, but the heaps of these commodities upon the beach are the
only visible symptoms of the traffick; for you will not see one person
in the place moving as if he had business to attract him, or one shop
of a better appearance, than an English huckster's, or one man in
the dress of a creditable trader, or one house, which can be
supposed to belong to persons in easy circumstances. The port
contains, perhaps, half a dozen vessels, clinker built, in shape
between a barge and a sloop; on the quay, you may see two or
three fellows, harnessing half a dozen horses to a tow line, while
twenty more watch their lingering manœuvres, and this may
probably be the morning's business of the town. Those, who are
concerned in it, say that they are engaged in commerce.

This, or something like it, is the condition, as to trade, of all the

towns we saw in Germany, one or two excepted. They are so far
from having well filled, or spacious repositories, that you can
scarcely tell at what houses there are any, till you are led within the
door; you may then wait long after you are heard, or seen, before
the owner, if he has any other engagement, thinks it necessary to
approach you: if he has what you ask for, which he probably has
not, unless it is something very ordinary, he tells the price and takes
it, with as much sullenness, as if you were forcing the goods from
him: if he has not, and can shew you only something very different,
he then considers your enquiry as an intrusion, and appears to think
himself injured by having had the trouble to answer you. What
seems unaccountable in the manners of a German trader, is, that,
though he is so careless in attending you, he looks as much
distressed, as vexed, if you do not leave some money with him; but
he probably knows, that you can be supplied no where else in the
town, and, therefore, will not deny himself the indulgence of his
temper. Even when you are satisfied, his manner is so ill, that he
appears to consider you his dependent, by wanting something which
he can refuse. After perceiving, that this is nearly general, the pain
of making continual discoveries of idleness and malignity becomes
so much greater than the inconvenience of wanting any thing short
of necessaries, that you decline going into shops, and wait for some
easier opportunities of supplying whatever you may lose upon the
road.

COBLENTZ.
 It is one post from Andernach hither, over a road, as good as any
in England. Beyond the dominions of the Elector of Cologne, the face
of the country, on this side of the Rhine, entirely changes its
character. The rocks cease, at Andernach, and a rich plain
commences, along which the road is led, at a greater distance from
the Rhine, through corn lands and uninclosed orchards. About a mile
from Andernach, on the other side of the river, the white town of
Neuwiedt, the capital of a small Protestant principality, is seen; and
the general report, that it is one of the most commercial places, on
the Rhine, appeared to be true from the cheerful neatness of the
principal street, which faces towards the water. There were also
about twenty small vessels, lying before it, and the quay seemed to
be wide enough to serve as a spacious terrace to the houses. The
Prince's palace, an extensive stone building, with a lofty orangery
along the shore, is at the end of this street, which, as well as the
greatest part of the town, was built, or improved under the auspices
of his father; a wise prince, distinguished by having negotiated, in
1735, a peace between the Empire and France, when the
continuance of the war had seemed to be inevitable. The same
benevolence led him to a voluntary surrender of many oppressive
privileges over his subjects, as well as to the most careful protection
of commerce and manufactures. Accordingly, the town of Neuwiedt
has been continually increasing in prosperity and size, for the last
fifty years, and the inhabitants of the whole principality are said to
be as much more qualified in their characters as they are happier in
their conditions than those of the neighbouring states. But then
there is the wretchedness of a deficiency of game in the country, for
the late Prince was guilty of such an innovation as to mitigate the
severity of the laws respecting it.

The forest hills, that rise behind Neuwiedt and over the rocky
margin of the river, extend themselves towards the more rugged
mountains of Wetteravia, which are seen, a shapeless multitude, in
the east.
 The river is soon after lost to the view between high, sedgy banks;
but, near Coblentz, the broad bay, which it makes in conjunction
with the Moselle, is seen expanding between the walls of the city
and the huge pyramidal precipice, on which stands the fortress of
Ehrenbreitstein, or rather which is itself formed into that fortress.
The Moselle is here a noble river, by which the streams of a
thousand hills, covered with vines, pour themselves into the Rhine.
The antient stone bridge over it leads to the northern gate of
Coblentz, and the entrance into the city is ornamented by several
large chateau-like mansions, erected to command a view of the two
rivers. A narrow street of high, but antient houses then commences,
and runs through the place. Those, which branch from it, extend, on
each side, towards the walls, immediately within which there are
others, that nearly follow their course and encompass the city. Being
built between two rivers, its form is triangular, and only one side is
entirely open to the land; a situation so convenient both for the
purposes of commerce and war, that it could not be overlooked by
the Romans, and was not much neglected by the moderns, till the
industry of maritime countries and the complicated constitution of
the Empire reduced Germany in the scale of nations. This was
accordingly the station of the first legion, and the union of the two
rivers gave it a name; Confluentia. At the commencement of the
modern division of nations, the successors of Charlemagne
frequently resided here, for the convenience of an intercourse
between the other parts of the Empire and France; but, in the
eleventh century, the whole territory of Treves regained the
distinction, as a separate country, which the Romans had given it, by
calling the inhabitants Treveri.

Coblentz is a city of many spires, and has establishments of

chapters and monasteries, which make the great pride of German
capitals, and are sometimes the chief objects, that could distinguish
them from the neglected villages of other countries. The streets are
not all narrow, but few of them are straight; and the same pavement
serves for the horses of the Elector and the feet of his subjects. The
port, or beach, has the appearance of something more business
than that of Andernach, being the resort of passage-vessels between
Mentz and Cologne; but the broad quay, which has been raised
above it, is chiefly useful as a promenade to the visitors of a close
and gloomy town. Beyond the terrace stands the Elector's palace, an
elegant and spacious stone edifice, built to the height of three
stories, and inclosing a court, which is large enough to be light as
well as magnificent. The front towards the Rhine is simple, yet
grand, the few ornaments being so well proportioned to its size, as
neither to debase it by minuteness, nor encumber it by vastness. An
entablature, displaying some allegorical figures in bas relief, is
supported by six Doric columns, which contribute much to the
majestic simplicity of the edifice. The palace was built, about ten
years since, by the reigning Elector, who mentions, in an inscription,
his attention to the architectural art; and a fountain, between the
building and the town, is inscribed with a few words, which seem to
acknowledge his subjects as beings of the same species with
himself; Clemens Winceslaus Vicinis Suis.

But the most striking parts of the view from this quay are the rock
and fortress of Ehrenbreitstein, that present themselves immediately
before it, on the other side of the river; notwithstanding the breadth
of which they appear, to rise almost perpendicularly over Coblentz.
At the base of the rock stands a large building, formerly the palace
of the Electors, who chose to reside under the immediate protection
of the fortress, rather than in the midst of their capital. Adjoining it
is the village of Ehrenbreitstein, between which and Coblentz a flying
bridge is continually passing, and, with its train of subordinate boats,
forms a very picturesque object from the quay. The fortress itself
consists of several tier of low walls, built wherever there was a
projection in the rock capable of supporting them, or wherever the
rock could be hewn so as to afford room for cannon and soldiers.
The stone, taken out of the mass, served for the formation of the
walls, which, in some places, can scarcely be distinguished from the
living rock. Above these tier, which are divided into several small
parts, according to the conveniences afforded by the cliff, is built the
castle, or citadel, covering its summit, and surrounded by walls more
regularly continued, as well as higher. Small towers, somewhat in
the antient form, defend the castle, which would be of little value,
except for its height, and for the gradations of batteries between it
and the river. Thus protected, it seems impregnable on that side,
and is said to be not much weaker on the other; so that the
garrison, if they should be willing to fire upon Coblentz, might make
it impossible for an enemy to remain within it, except under the
cover of very high entrenchments. This is the real defence of the
city, for its walls would presently fall before heavy artillery; and this,
it is believed, might be preserved as long as the garrison could be
supplied with stores.

We crossed the river from the quay to the fortress, by means of

the very simple invention, a flying bridge. That, by which part of the
passage of the Waal is made at Nimeguen, has been already
mentioned; this is upon the same principle, but on a much larger
scale. After the barges, upon which the platform is laid, are clear of
the bank, the whole passage is effected with no other labour than
that of the rudder. A strong cable, which is fastened to an anchor at
each side of the river, is supported across it by a series of small
boats; the bridge has two low masts, one on each barge, and these
are connected at the top by a beam, over which the cable is passed,
being confined so as that it cannot slip beyond them. When the
bridge is launched, the rapidity of the current forces it down the
Rhine as far as the cable will permit: having reached that point, the
force, received from the current, gives it the only direction of which
it is capable, that across the river, with the cable which holds it. The
steersman manages two rudders, by which he assists in giving it this
direction. The voyage requires nine or ten minutes, and the bridge is
continually passing. The toll, which, for a foot passenger, is
something less than a penny, is paid, for the benefit of the Elector, at
an office, on the bank, and a sentinel always accompanies the
bridge, to support his government, during the voyage.

The old palace of Ehrenbreitstein, deserted because of its

dampness, and from the fear of its being overwhelmed by the rock,
that sometimes scatters its fragments upon it, is now used as a
barrack and hospital for soldiers. It is a large building, even more
pleasantly situated than the new one, being opposite to the entrance
of the Moselle into the Rhine; and its structure, which has been once
magnificent, denotes scarcely any other decay, than all buildings will
shew, after a few years' neglect. The rock has allowed little room for
a garden, but there are some ridiculous ornaments upon a very
narrow strip of ground, which was probably intended for one.

The only entrance into the fortress, on this side, is by a road, cut
in the solid rock, under four gateways. It is so steep, that we were
compelled to decline the honour of admission, but ascended it far
enough to judge of the view, commanded from the summit, and to
be behind the batteries, of which some were mounted with large
brass cannon. Coblentz lies beneath it, as open to inspection as a
model upon a table. The sweeps of the Rhine and the meanders of
the Moselle, the one binding the plain, the other intersecting it, lead
the eye towards distant hills, that encircle the capacious level. The
quay of the city, with the palace and the moving bridge, form an
interesting picture immediately below, and we were unwilling to
leave the rock for the dull and close streets of Coblentz. On our
return, the extreme nakedness of the new palace, which is not
sheltered by trees, on any side, withdrew our attention from the
motley group of passengers, mingled with hay carts and other
carriages, on the flying bridge.

The long residence of the emigrant princes and noblesse of France

in this city is to be accounted for not by its general accommodations,
or gaieties, of which it is nearly as deficient as the others of
Germany; but first by the great hospitality of the Elector towards
them, and then by the convenience of its situation for receiving
intelligence from France, and for communicating with other
countries. The Elector held frequent levies for the French nobility,
and continued for them part of the splendour which they had
enjoyed in their own country. The readiness for lending money upon
property, or employments in France, was also so great, that those,
who had not brought cash with them, were immediately supplied,
and those, who had, were encouraged to continue their usual
expences. We know it from some of the best possible authority, that,
at the commencement of the march towards Longwy, money, at four
per cent. was even pressed upon many, and that large sums were
refused.

Here, and in the neighbourhood, between sixty and seventy

squadrons of cavalry, consisting chiefly of those who had formerly
enjoyed military, or other rank, were formed; each person being
mounted and equipped chiefly at his own expence. We heard several
anecdotes of the confidence, entertained in this army, of a speedy
arrival in Paris; but, as the persons, to whom they relate, are now
under the pressure of misfortune, there would be as little pleasure
as propriety in repeating them.

At Coblentz, we quitted, for a time, the left bank of the Rhine, in

order to take the watering place of Selters, in our way to Mentz.
Having crossed the river and ascended a steep road, near the
fortress, we had fine glimpses of its walls, bastions and out-towers,
and the heathy knolls, around them, with catches of distant country.
The way continued to lie through the dominions of the Elector of
Treves, which are here so distinguished for their wretchedness as to
be named the Siberia of Germany! It is paved, and called a
chaussée; but those, who have not experienced its ruggedness, can
have no idea of it, except by supposing the pavement of a street
torn up by a plough, and then suffered to fix itself, as it had fallen.
Always steep, either in ascent or descent, it is not only the
roughness, that prevents your exceeding the usual post-pace of
three English miles an hour. Sometimes it runs along edges of
mountains, that might almost be called precipices, and commands
short views of other mountains and of vallies entirely covered with
thick, but not lofty forests; sometimes it buries itself in the depths of
such forests and glens; sometimes the turrets of an old chateau
peep above these, but rather confirm than contradict the notion of
their desolateness, having been evidently built for the purposes of
the chace; and sometimes a mud village surprises you with a few
inhabitants, emblems of the misery and savageness of the country.

These are the mountains of Wetteravia, the boundaries of many a

former and far-seen prospect, then picturesque, sublime, or graceful,
but now desolate, shaggy, and almost hideous; as in life, that, which
is so grand as to charm at a distance, is often found to be forlorn,
disgustful and comfortless by those, who approach it.

MONTABAUR.
Six hours after leaving Coblentz, we reached Montabaur, the first
post-town on the road, and distant about eighteen miles. An ancient
chateau, not strong enough to be a castle, nor light enough to be a
good house, commands the town, and is probably the residence of
the lord. The walls and gates shew the antiquity of Montabaur, but
the ruggedness of its site should seem to prove, that there was no
other place in the neighbourhood, on which a town could be built.
Though it is situated in a valley, as to the nearer mountains, it is
constructed chiefly on two sides of a narrow rock, the abrupt summit
of which is in the centre of this very little place.

The appearance of Montabaur is adequate in gloominess to that of

several before seen; but it would be endless to repeat, as often as
they should be true, the descriptions of the squalidness and decay,
that characterise German towns; nor should we have noticed these
so often, if the negligence of others, in this respect, had not left us
to form deceitful expectations, suitable to the supposed importance
of several very conspicuous, but really very wretched cities.
 LIMBOURG.
Over a succession of forest mountains, similar to those just
passed, we came, in the afternoon, to Limbourg, another post-town,
or, perhaps, city, and another collection of houses, like tombs, or
forsaken hospitals. At an inn, called the Three Kings, we saw first
the sullenness and then the ferocious malignity of a German landlord
and his wife, exemplified much more fully than had before occurred.
When we afterwards expressed our surprise, that the magistrates
should permit persons of such conduct to keep an inn, especially
where there was only one, we learned, that this fellow was himself
the chief magistrate, or burgomaster of the place; and his authority
appeared in the fearfulness of his neighbours to afford any sort of
refreshment to those, who had left his inn. One of the Elector's
ministers, with whom we had the pleasure to be acquainted,
informed us, that he knew this man, and that he must have been
intoxicated, for that, though civil when sober, he was madly
turbulent and abusive, if otherwise. It appeared, therefore, that a
person was permitted to be a magistrate, who, to the knowledge of
government, was exposed by his situation to be intoxicated, and was
outrageous, whenever he was so. So little is the order of society
estimated here, when it is not connected with the order of politics.

Near Limbourg, the forest scenery, which had shut up the view,
during the day, disappeared, and the country lost, at least, an
uniformity of savageness. The hills continue, but they are partly
cultivated. At a small distance from the town, a steep ascent leads to
a plain, on which a battle was fought, during the short stay of the
French in this district, in the campaign of 1792. Four thousand
French were advancing towards Limbourg; a small Prussian corps
drew up to oppose them, and the engagement, though short, was
vivid, for the Prussians did not perceive the superiority of the French
in numbers, till the latter began to spread upon the plain, for the
purpose of surrounding them. Being then compelled to retreat, they
left several of the Elector's towns open to contribution, from which
five-and-twenty thousand florins were demanded, but the
remonstrances of the magistrates reduced this sum to 8000 florins,
or about 700l. The French then entered Limbourg, and extended
themselves over the neighbouring country. At Weilbourg, the
residence of a Prince of the House of Nassau, they required 300,000
florins, or 25,000l. which the Prince neither had, nor could collect, in
two days, through his whole country. All his plate, horses, coaches,
arms and six pieces of cannon, were brought together, for the
purpose of removal; but afterwards two individuals were accepted as
hostages, instead of the Prince himself, who had been at first
demanded. The action near Limbourg took place on the 9th of
November, and, before the conclusion of the month, the French had
fallen back to Franckfort, upon the re-approach of the Prussian and
Austrian troops.

SELTERS.
We had a curiosity to see this place, which, under the name of
Seltzer, is so celebrated throughout Europe, for its medicinal water.
Though it is rather in the high road to Franckfort than to Mentz,
there seemed no probability of inconvenience in making this short
departure from our route, when it was to be joined again from a
place of such public access as Selters appeared likely to be found.

About seven miles from Limbourg, a descent commences, at the

bottom of which stands this village. What a reproof to the
expectation of comfort, or convenience in Germany! Selters, a spot,
to which a valetudinarian might be directed, with the prospect of his
finding not only abundant accommodation, but many luxuries,
Selters is literally and positively nothing more than an assemblage of
miserable cottages, with one inn and two houses for officers of the
Elector, stuck in a dirty pass, which more resembles a ditch than a
road. The village may be said to be near half a mile long, because
the huts, being mostly separated from each other, continue as far;
and this length would increase its inconvenience to invalids, if such
should ever stay there longer than to see it, for there is nothing like
a swept path-way, and the road, in which they must walk, is
probably always deeply covered with mud, being so when we were
there in the beginning of July. There was then, however, not one
stranger, besides ourselves, in the place, and we found, that very
rarely any aggravate the miseries of sickness by a stay at Selters.

The only lodgings to be had are at the inn, and fortunately for
travellers this is not such as might be expected from the appearance
of the village. Finding there the novelty of an obliging host and
hostess, we were very well contented to have reached it, at night,
though we were to stay there also the next day, being Sunday. The
rooms are as good as those in the inns of German cities, and three,
which are called Court Chambers, having been used by the Elector
and lately by the King of Prussia, are better. These are as open as
the others to strangers.

The spring is at the foot of one of several hills, which immediately

surround the village, and is separated from the road by a small court
yard. An oaken covering, at the height of ten or twelve feet,
prevents rain from falling into the wooden bason, in which the
stream rises; and two or three of the Elector's guards watch over it,
that no considerable quantity may be taken, without payment of the
duty, which forms a large part of his income. Many thousands of
stone bottles are piled round this court, and, for the reputation of
the spring, care is taken to fill them as immediately as possible,
before their removal for exportation.

The policy of keeping this income intire is said to be a motive for

neglecting the condition of the village. A duty could not well be
demanded of those, who should drink at the spring, but is easily
collected before the water is bottled for removal; it is, therefore, not
wished, that there should be many visitors, at Selters. We did not
hear this reason upon the spot, but it is difficult otherwise to
account for a negligence, which prevents the inhabitants of the
neighbouring country from being enriched at the expence of
wanderers from others.

Nor is it only a duty, but the whole profit of the traffick, till the
water leaves the place, which rewards the care of the Elector. His
office for the sale of it is established here, and his agents alone
transmit it into foreign countries. The business is sufficient to employ
several clerks, and the number of bottles annually filled is so
immense, that, having omitted to write it down, we will not venture
to mention it from memory. The water is brought to table constantly
and at an easy price in all the towns near the Rhine. Mixed with
Rhenish wine and sugar it forms a delightful, but not always a safe
beverage, in hot weather. The acid of the wine, expelling the fixed
air of other ingredients, occasions an effervescence, like that of
Champagne, but the liquor has not a fourth part of the obnoxious
strength of the latter. The danger of drinking it is, that the acid may
be too powerful for some constitutions.

After being surprised by the desolateness of the village, we were

not less so to find amongst its few inhabitants one, whose manners
and information, so far from bearing the character of the dreariness
around him, were worthy of the best society in the most intelligent
cities. This was the Commissary and Privy Counsellor of the Elector
for the district, who, having heard, that there were some English
visitors at the well, very frankly introduced himself to us by his
civilities, and favoured us with his company in the afternoon. He had
been in England, with many valuable introductions, and had formed
from the talents and accomplishments of a distinguished Marquis an
high opinion of the national character; a circumstance, which
probably united with his natural disposition, in inducing him to
emulate towards us the general politeness of that truly honourable
person.

When we enquired how the journey of the next day was to be

performed, it appeared, that no other carriage could be hired in the
place than a sort of one-horse chair, which would take us to the next
post town, from whence we might proceed with the usual chaises.
The driver walked at the side of this uncouth carriage, which had
shafts and wheels strong enough for a waggon; and, either by the
mistake or intention of his master in directing him, we were led, not
to the post town, for a chaise, if it could be had, but entirely through
a forest country to Mentz, by roads made only for the woodcutters,
and, as it afterwards proved, known to few others, except to our
ingenious voiturier. We did not pass a town, or village, at which it
was possible to change the carriage, and had, therefore, no other
alternative, when the mistake was discovered, than to return to
Selters, or to proceed to Mentz, in this inconvenient and ludicrous
vehicle. We chose to proceed, and had some reward for fatigue, by
passing nearly an whole day under the shade of deep and delightful
forests, little tamed by the hand of man, and appearing to
acknowledge only "the season's difference."

Between Selters and these forests, the country is well cultivated,

and frequently laid out in garden-fields, in which there was the first
appearance of cheerful labour we had seen in Germany. After
passing a small town, on the summit of a hill to the left, still
surrounded by its antient fortifications, we entered a large plain,
skirted, on one side, by villages; another town, at the end of which,
was almost the last sign of an inhabited country, that appeared for
several hours. The forest then commenced, and, with the exception
of one hamlet, enveloped near the middle, we saw nothing but lofty
oaks, elms and chesnuts, till we emerged from it in the afternoon,
and came to a town of the Landgrave of Hesse Darmstadt. Roebucks
are said to be numerous, and wild boars not very scarce, in this
forest; but we saw none either here, or in those near Limbourg,
which are much inferior to this in beauty. Upon the whole, it was a
scene of perfect novelty; without which it now seems that we should
have wanted many ideas of sylvan life and much of the delight,
excited by Shakespeare's exquisite description of it.

The country afterwards opens towards

 MENTZ,
Which stands in a spacious plain, on the opposite edge of the
Rhine, and is visible, at a considerable distance, with its massy
towers and numerous spires. Within two or three miles of the city,
the symptoms of ruin, occasioned by the siege in 1793, began to
appear. A village, on the left, had scarcely one house entire; and the
tower of the church was a mere wreck, blackened by flames, and
with large chasms, that admitted the light. The road did not pass
nearer to it than two miles, but the broken walls and roofs were
distinguishable even at that distance, and sometimes a part, which
had been repaired, contrasted its colour with the black and smoky
hues of the remainder. This was the village of Kostheim, so often
contended for in the course of the siege, being on the opposite bank
of the Rhine to the city, and capable of obstructing the intercourse
with it by water.

The country on the eastern side of the river was otherwise but
little damaged, if we except the destruction of numerous orchards;
for the allies were not strong enough to besiege the city on all sides
at once, and contented themselves with occupying some posts in
this quarter, capable of holding the garrison of Cassel in awe.

This Cassel is a small village exactly opposite to Mentz, and

communicating with it by a bridge of boats. It was unfortified before
the invasion of the French; but these had no sooner entered the city,
than they perceived the importance of such a place, and prepared
themselves to render it a regular fortress. In about two months they
completely surrounded it with earthen works and outworks, ditched
and pallisadoed. Some of the nearest orchards were cut down to be
used in these fortifications. The fruit trees still remain with their
branches upwards from the ditch, and serve instead of chevaux de
frise.
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