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 Sample Final Exam #6
(Summer 2008; thanks to Hélène Martin)

1. Array Mystery
Consider the following method:
public static void arrayMystery(String[] a) {
for (int i = 0; i < a.length; i++) {
a[i] = a[i] + a[a.length - 1 - i];
}
}
Indicate in the right-hand column what values would be stored in the array after the method arrayMystery executes
if the array in the left-hand column is passed as a parameter to it.
Original Contents of Array Final Contents of Array
String[] a1 = {"a", "b", "c"};
arrayMystery(a1); _____________________________

String[] a2 = {"a", "bb", "c", "dd"};

arrayMystery(a2); _____________________________

String[] a3 = {"z", "y", "142", "w", "xx"};

arrayMystery(a3); _____________________________

1 of 9
2. Reference Semantics Mystery
The following program produces 4 lines of output. Write the output below, as it would appear on the console.
public class Pokemon {
int level;

public Pokemon(int level) {

this.level = level;
}
}

public class ReferenceMystery {

public static void main(String[] args) {
int hp = 10;
Pokemon squirtle = new Pokemon(5);

battle(squirtle, hp);
System.out.println("Level " + squirtle.level + ", " + hp + " hp");

hp = hp + squirtle.level;

battle(squirtle, hp + 1);
System.out.println("Level " + squirtle.level + ", " + hp + " hp");
}

public static void battle(Pokemon poke, int hp) {

poke.level++;
hp -= 5;
System.out.println("Level " + poke.level + ", " + hp + " hp");
}
}

2 of 9
3. Inheritance Mystery
Assume that the following classes have been defined:

public class Dog extends Cat { public class Cat {

public void m1() { public void m1() {
m2(); System.out.print("cat 1 ");
System.out.print("dog 1 "); }
}
} public void m2() {
System.out.print("cat 2 ");
public class Lion extends Dog { }
public void m2() {
System.out.print("lion 2 "); public String toString() {
super.m2(); return "cat";
} }
}
public String toString() {
return "lion";
}
}
Given the classes above, what output is produced by the following code?
Cat[] elements = {new Dog(), new Cat(), new Lion()};
for (int i = 0; i < elements.length; i++) {
elements[i].m1();
System.out.println();
elements[i].m2();
System.out.println();
System.out.println(elements[i]);
System.out.println();
}

3 of 9
4. File Processing
Write a static method evaluate that accepts as a parameter a Scanner containing a series of tokens representing a
numeric expression involving addition and subtraction and that returns the value of the expression. For example, if a
Scanner called data contains the following tokens:
4.2 + 3.4 - 4.1
The call of evaluate(data); should evaluate the result as (4.2+3.4-4.1) = (7.6-4.1) = 3.5 and should return this
value as its result. Every expression will begin with a real number and then will have a series of operator/number
pairs that follow. The operators will be either + (addition) or - (subtraction). As in the example above, there will be
spaces separating numbers and operators. You may assume the expression is legal.
Your program should evaluate operators sequentially from left to right. For example, for this expression:
7.3 - 4.1 - 2.0
your method should evaluate the operators as follows:
7.3 - 4.1 - 2.0 = (7.3 - 4.1) - 2.0 = 3.2 - 2.0 = 1.2
The Scanner might contain just a number, in which case your method should return that number as its result.

4 of 9
5. File Processing
Write a static method blackjack that accepts as its parameter a Scanner for an input file containing a hand of
playing cards, and returns the point value of the hand in the card game Blackjack.
A card has a rank and a suit. There are 13 ranks: Ace, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, Jack, Queen, and King. There are 4
suits: Clubs, Diamonds, Hearts, and Spades. A Blackjack hand's point value is the sum of its cards' point values. A
card's point value comes from its rank; the suit is irrelevant. In this problem, cards are worth the following points:
Rank Point Value
2-10 The card's rank (for example, a 7 is worth 7 points)
Jack (J), Queen (Q), King (K) 10 points each
Ace (A) 11 points (for this problem; simplified compared to real Blackjack)
The input file contains a single hand of cards, each represented by a pair of "<rank> <suit>" tokens. For example:
5 Diamonds
Q Spades
2 Spades 3 Hearts
Given the above input, your method should return 20, since the cards' point values are 5 + 10 + 2 + 3 = 20.
The input can be in mixed casing, have odd spacing between tokens, and can be split across lines. For example:
2 Hearts
j SPADES a Diamonds
2 ClUbS
A
hearts
Given the above input, your method should return 36, since the cards' point values are 2 + 10 + 11 + 2 + 11 = 36.
You may assume that the Scanner contains at least 1 card (two tokens) of input, and that no line will contain any
tokens other than valid card data. The real game of Blackjack has many other rules that you should ignore for this
problem, such as the notion of going "bust" once you exceed a score of 21.

5 of 9
6. Array Programming
Write a static method named allPlural that accepts an array of strings as a parameter and returns true only if
every string in the array is a plural word, and false otherwise. For this problem a plural word is defined as any
string that ends with the letter S, case-insensitively. The empty string "" is not considered a plural word, but the
single-letter string "s" or "S" is. Your method should return true if passed an empty array (one with 0 elements).
The table below shows calls to your method and the expected values returned:
Array Call and Value Returned
String[] a1 = {"snails", "DOGS", "Cats"}; allPlural(a1) returns true
String[] a2 = {"builds", "Is", "S", "THRILLs", "CS"}; allPlural(a2) returns true
String[] a3 = {}; allPlural(a3) returns true
String[] a4 = {"She", "sells", "sea", "SHELLS"}; allPlural(a4) returns false
String[] a5 = {"HANDS", "feet", "toes", "OxEn"}; allPlural(a5) returns false
String[] a6 = {"shoes", "", "socks"}; allPlural(a6) returns false
For full credit, your method should not modify the array's elements.

6 of 9
7. Array Programming
Write a static method named reverseChunks that accepts two parameters, an array of integers a and an integer
"chunk" size s, and reverses every s elements of a. For example, if s is 2 and array a stores {1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6},
a is rearranged to store {2, 1, 4, 3, 6, 5}. With an s of 3 and the same elements {1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6}, array
a is rearranged to store {3, 2, 1, 6, 5, 4}. The chunks on this page are underlined for convenience.
If a's length is not evenly divisible by s, the remaining elements are untouched. For example, if s is 4 and array a
stores {5, 4, 9, 2, 1, 7, 8, 6, 2, 10}, a is rearranged to store {2, 9, 4, 5, 6, 8, 7, 1, 2, 10}.
It is also possible that s is larger than a's entire length, in which case the array is not modified at all. You may assume
that s is 1 or greater (an s of 1 would not modify the array). If array a is empty, its contents should remain unchanged.
The following table shows some calls to your method and their expected results:
Array and Call Array Contents After Call
int[] a1 = {20, 10, 30, 60, 50, 40}; {10, 20, 60, 30, 40, 50}
reverseChunks(a1, 2);
int[] a2 = {2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16}; {6, 4, 2, 12, 10, 8, 14, 16}
reverseChunks(a2, 3);
int[] a3 = {7, 1, 3, 5, 9, 8, 2, 6, 4, 10, 0, 12}; {9, 5, 3, 1, 7, 10, 4, 6, 2, 8, 0, 12}
reverseChunks(a3, 5);
int[] a4 = {1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6}; {1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6}
reverseChunks(a4, 8);
int[] a5 = {}; {}
reverseChunks(a5, 2);

7 of 9
8. Critters
Write a class Minnow that extends Critter from HW8, along with its movement and eating behavior. All other
aspects of Minnow use the defaults. Add fields, constructors, etc. as necessary to your class.
Minnow objects initially move in a S/E/S/E/... pattern. However, when a Minnow encounters food (when its eat
method is called), it should do all of the following:
• Do not eat the food.
• Start the movement cycle over. In other words, the next move after eat is called should always be South.
• Lengthen and reverse the horizontal portion of the movement cycle pattern.
The Minnow should reverse its horizontal direction and increase its horizontal movement distance by 1 for
subsequent cycles. For example, if the Minnow had been moving S/E/S/E, it will now move S/W/W/S/W/W. If
it hits a second piece of food, it will move S/E/E/E/S/E/E/E, and a third, S/W/W/W/W/S/W/W/W/W, and so on.
?
The following is an example timeline of a particular Minnow object's movement. The ??
timeline below is also drawn in the diagram at right. Underlined occurrences mark squares ??
where the Minnow found food. ???
???
• S, E, S, E (hits food) ?
????
• S, W, W, S, W, W, S (hits food) ????
• S, E, E, E, S, E, E, E, S, E (hits food) ??
• S (hits food) ?
??????
• S, E, E, E, E, E, S, E, E, E, E, E, ...

8 of 9
9. Classes and Objects
Suppose that you are provided with a pre-written class Date as // Each Date object stores a single
described at right. (The headings are shown, but not the method // month/day such as September 19.
bodies, to save space.) Assume that the fields, constructor, and // This class ignores leap years.
methods shown are already implemented. You may refer to them
or use them in solving this problem if necessary. public class Date {
private int month;
Write an instance method named bound that will be placed inside private int day;
the Date class to become a part of each Date object's behavior.
The bound method constrains a Date to within a given range of // Constructs a date with
dates. It accepts two other Date objects d1 and d2 as parameters; // the given month and day.
public Date(int m, int d)
d1's date is guaranteed to represent a date that comes no later in
the year than d2's date. // Returns the date's day.
The bound method makes sure that this Date object is between public int getDay()
d1's and d2's dates, inclusive. If this Date object is not between
// Returns the date's month.
those dates inclusive, it is adjusted to the nearest date in the public int getMonth()
acceptable range. The method returns a result of true if this
Date was within the acceptable range, or false if it was shifted. // Returns the number of days
// in this date's month.
For example, given the following Date objects: public int daysInMonth()
Date date1 = new Date(7, 12);
Date date2 = new Date(10, 31); // Modifies this date's state
Date date3 = new Date(9, 19); // so that it has moved forward
Date bound1 = new Date(8, 4); // in time by 1 day, wrapping
Date bound2 = new Date(9, 26); // around into the next month
Date bound3 = new Date(12, 25); // or year if necessary.
// example: 9/19 -> 9/20
The following calls to your method should adjust the given Date // example: 9/30 -> 10/1
objects to represent the following dates and should return the // example: 12/31 -> 1/1
following results: public void nextDay()
call date becomes returns
date1.bound(bound1, bound2) 8/4 false
// your method would go here
date2.bound(bound1, bound2) 9/26 false
date3.bound(bound1, bound3) 9/19 true }
date2.bound(bound3, bound3) 12/25 false

9 of 9
Another Random Scribd Document
with Unrelated Content
The Project Gutenberg eBook of A Five Years'
Residence in Buenos Ayres, During the years
1820 to 1825
This ebook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States
and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no
restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it
under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this
ebook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the
United States, you will have to check the laws of the country where
you are located before using this eBook.

Title: A Five Years' Residence in Buenos Ayres, During the years

1820 to 1825

Author: George Thomas Love

Release date: April 8, 2013 [eBook #42482]

Most recently updated: October 23, 2024

Language: English

Credits: Produced by René Anderson Benitz, Adrian Mastronardi, and

the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
http://www.pgdp.net

*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A FIVE YEARS'

RESIDENCE IN BUENOS AYRES, DURING THE YEARS 1820 TO 1825
***
 A

FIVE YEARS’ RESIDENCE

IN

BUENOS AYRES,
DURING THE YEARS 1820 TO 1825:
CONTAINING

REMARKS ON THE COUNTRY AND

INHABITANTS;
AND A VISIT TO

COLONIA DEL SACRAMENTO.

BY AN ENGLISHMAN.

WITH AN APPENDIX,
CONTAINING

RULES AND POLICE OF THE PORT OF BUENOS AYRES,

NAVIGATION OF THE RIVER PLATE, &c. &c.

 SECOND EDITION.

LONDON:
PUBLISHED BY G. HEBERT, 88, CHEAPSIDE.

1827.

LONDON
Stirling, Printer, 20 Ironmonger Lane, Cheapside.
 PREFACE.
At a time when the rich and fertile provinces of South America are
daily becoming increased objects of commercial consideration—when
their riches and advantages are constantly forming the bases of
fresh speculations—and when, under the security offered to person
and property by the liberal institutions of a free and independent
government, communication with them is every hour becoming more
extended,—an illustration of their local affairs, customs, manners,
and people, cannot but be interesting.
Of these provinces, the one which forms the subject of the following
Remarks is far from being the least important. Without adverting to
the fertility of the soil, and the general healthiness of the climate,
the prospects which Buenos Ayres presents in a mercantile point of
view, forming, as she does, from her situation, the medium of
communication with the whole interior of this vast continent, must
ever render her an object of considerable importance to a
commercial nation like England. Nor is she less a source of interest
to the politician and the philanthropist. To Buenos Ayres is due the
credit of setting the noble example to the other provinces, of
bursting asunder the shackles of a despotic mother-country, whose
selfish policy had long immured them under the deepest veil of
ignorance and degradation, debarring them from any communication
with the rest of the world, in order that she might reap the exclusive
advantage of those treasures with which Nature had enriched them.
Nor has Buenos Ayres confined herself to example merely, but, from
the moment of having secured her own independence, she has
never ceased to encourage and assist the other states in throwing
off the same degrading yoke.
It is true, that preceding works have thrown much light on these
countries, and the subjects I have here handled have been treated
by abler pens than mine; but, besides the expensiveness of those
works, which renders them inaccessible to a great class of readers,
the subject is so new, and embraces such a wide field of research,
that an abundant harvest still remains for fresh labourers. Having
confined myself to one portion of this vast territory, I have been able
to enter into a minuter detail of many things that have been
cursorily passed over by preceding writers; and, finally, having
resided in the country which is the subject of these Remarks during
the last five years, my means of observation have been neither few
nor limited.
 CONTENTS.

PAGE
The Port—Custom-House Regulations 1
Visit of the Health Boat 2
Outer and Inner Roads 3
Pilots 4
Port of Ensenada —
Barraccas —
Navigation of the River Plate —
Balandras, or lighters, for lading
and unlading vessels —
Carts used for embarking and
disembarking —
Packets between Buenos Ayres and
Monte Video 5
Climate 6
Diseases 9
Environs of the City —
Alameda, or Public Walk 10
The Beach, crowded with Sailors —
Coffee-Houses and Hotels 11
Public Buildings: The Fort—Consulado—
Cabildo—Bank—House of
Representatives—Custom-House—
Public Library—Botanical Museum
—Retiro—Residencia 14 to 16
Squares and Streets 16
Houses 17
Churches 18
Theatre 22
Circus 33

FOREIGN RESIDENTS.
British: Merchants, Shopkeepers,
Medical Men, &c. 33 to 35
British Commercial Subscription-
Room 37
Establishment of Packets from
Falmouth 39
Dispute between Captain Willis
and the Government 41
Treaty with England 43
English Females at Buenos Ayres 44
Many Englishmen have married
Buenos-Ayrean Wives 45
Death of Mr. Dallas, and of Mr.
Rowcroft 47
Death of Jack Hall —
Irish Yankies 48
North-American Residents 49
Death of Mr. Rodney 51
Frenchmen 52
Portuguese 53
Germans, Italians, Prussians, &c. 54

NATIVE (OR CREOLE) AND SPANISH INHABITANTS.

Persons, Dispositions, and Manners 55
Compliments of Salutation 57
Practice of giving Flowers to
Visitors —
Smoking Segars —
Politeness 58
Yerba, or Tea of Paraguay 59
 Time of Meals —
Siesta, or Afternoon Nap —
Tertulias, or Public Dances 60
Sweetmeats much eaten 61
Etiquette, when walking in public,
and in the ball-room —
Dancing 62
Music —
Consulado Musical School-Room 63
Philharmonics, a Musical
Subscription Society 64
Mothers watch their Daughters
with great strictness —
Marriages take place early 65
Washerwomen on the Beach 66
Treatment of Slaves 67
Superstition of the Negroes 68
Orderly conduct of the lower
orders —
Beggars very annoying 69
Savings Bank —
Propensity to Gaming 70
Bathing practised by all Classes —
Dress 71
Females make their own Clothes 74
Travelling —
Value and description of the
Horses 75
Arrival of some English Horses in
the Rhoda —
Country Waggons 77
Sports and Amusements:—Horse-racing— 78
Sailing—Cock-fighting—Hunting—
 Shooting—Fishing
Throwing the Lasso —
Annual Fair near the Recolator 79
Provisions: Beef—Mutton—Poultry—
Wines—Beer 81 to 85
Vegetables —
Fruit 86
Other Animal and Vegetable
Productions —
Population 89
Trade and Manufactures —
Exports 89
Imports—List of Vessels that
arrived in 1821, 2, 3, 4 90
Shops in Buenos Ayres very
numerous 92
English Manufactures very cheap 93
Currency, &c.—Notes engraved in
England 95
Average of Exchange 96
Bank of Buenos Ayres—Funds —
Education and Literature 97
College School—Academy in the
Merced Church —
Mrs. Hyne’s Seminary —
Many Buenos Ayreans speak and
write English 98
College of Stonyhurst, near
Liverpool 99
Education of Females —
Variedades et Mensagero de
Londres 100
Newspapers published in Buenos
Ayres 101
 Printing Offices —
Religion 102
Contrast of the Catholic and
Protestant faith —
Reception of an Archbishop, who
arrived in 1824 —
Times of Public Worship 103
Oration-Time 104
Music of the Masses —
Confession 105
Figures of the Virgin Mary kept in
glass cases 106
Priesthood not illiberal —
Friars 107
Suppression of the Monasteries —
Convents for Nuns 111
Religious Processions: St. Rosario,
and St. Nicholas 113
Feast of Corpus Christi 113
Observances during Lent—Passion
Week—Holy Thursday—Good
Friday—Burning of Judas 113 to 114
Procession of the Holy Ghost 117
Funeral Ceremonies 119
Masses for the repose of the Soul —
Protestant Burying-Ground 120
Police, &c. 121
Assassination very frequent
among the lower orders 122
Thieves ingenious 123
Boys about the Theatre-door
great thieves 124
Modes of Punishment: Shooting— 126
Public Whipping—Imprisonment
 —Working in the Streets, ironed
A great increase of crime in 1824 —
First execution for forgery 126
Committals before Trial 127
Law proceedings expensive and
tardy —
Passports required to leave
Buenos Ayres 128
Army—Punishment of flogging resorted
to 130
Bands of Music —
Custom to fire the Fort Guns on
the 4th of July, the Anniversary
of Whitelock’s Defeat 131
Government, and Public Events 133
Governor and Public Officers—
Junta, or Senate 134
Æra of the Independence of
Buenos Ayres—Celebration of
its Anniversary—Sports of the
day 135
Frequent Political Revolutions in
1820—Rodriguez appointed
Governor 138
Administration of Rivadavia 139
Two persons shot for state
offences, in October, 1820 141
Attempt at another Revolution—
Execution of Garcia —
Execution of Colonel Peralto and
Urien 142
Carrera shot at Mendoza 143
San Martin embarked for England 144
 A day set apart for the Funereal
Rites of Gen. Belgrano —
Visit of a New-Zealand Chief 145
Dinner on St. Andrew’s Day 146
Camden Packet took home the
treaty with England 146
Rejoicings for the Victory of
Ayacucho —
Arrival of a Brazilian Frigate 148
Opinion of Foreigners with regard
to his Majesty George IV. of
England 148
Mr. Canning popular in Buenos
Ayres 149
A Triumphal Car paraded through
the streets 152
Concluding Remarks —
Great want of population, and
consequent insecurity of the
country —
Ravages of the Indians—Four
officers detained and murdered
by them, in 1822—Description
of the Indians 154
Very little employment for Clerks
in Buenos Ayres —
Mechanics and Labourers sure of
employment 155
Farming not a profitable concern —
Grazing farms more beneficial —
Emigrants will not find the same
comfort as at home 156
French faction at Buenos Ayres —
 Contrast between Frenchmen and
Englishmen —
Inducements to Emigration 158
Colonia del Sacramento 159
Appendix.—Rules of the Port 167
Anchorage Dues 168
Police of the Port —
Penalties to which those are
subject who destroy the line of
Buoys established by
Government 169
Instructions for sailing from
Buenos Ayres to Monte Video 170
———— from Monte Video to
Buenos Ayres 172
Variation of Depth of Water
between the Banks Ortiz and
Chico 174
Positions of the Ten Buoys in the
River Plate 175
 REMARKS

DURING

A FIVE YEARS’ RESIDENCE

IN

BUENOS AYRES.

THE city of Buenos Ayres, when viewed from the outer roads at a
distance of about eight miles, has an imposing appearance. The
domes of the numerous churches, the public buildings, &c. give it an
air of grandeur, which a nearer approach diminishes. On landing, the
dilapidated mole (destroyed by the storm of the 21st August, 1820)
and the mean streets near the beach, do not augur well for the
beauty of the town: it requires an inspection rightly to appreciate it,
for there are edifices worthy of attention. When I landed, in October,
1820, two cannons, forty-two-pounders, in very good condition,
were mounted on the mole: they had the Spanish royal arms
engraven on them, and inscriptions, purporting, that one was cast at
Seville, and the other at Lima, some sixty years since.
A passenger is not exposed to any particular custom-house
obstructions when he comes on shore. Should he bring his trunks
with him, he is simply requested to open them, and a slight
examination takes place. Several obnoxious customs have lately
been abolished. Formerly, a sentinel was posted, to prevent any one
passing to the water-side at the mole without first asking permission
at the guard-house on the beach. The system of vessels being
obliged to wait, upon their arrival, in the outer roads, for the visit of
the health boat from shore, has also undergone reform. Masters may
now leave their vessels immediately. It is necessary to go on board
the gun-brig, which is now stationed in the inner roads, and there
await the visit of the health boat, which comes off by a signal from
this brig, and very little delay occurs. Upon the old plan, vessels
often remained, through bad weather or neglect, four or five days
before they were visited; during which time no communication was
allowed with the shore. A manifest of the cargo, the ship’s papers, [1]
letters, &c. are given to the visiting officer, provided no consul or
agent of the nation whose flag the vessel bears resides in Buenos
Ayres.
The removal of the brig of war from the outer roads has taken away
the occasion of much offence. Disputes were continually occurring,
from her firing at vessels and boats to bring them to. The boat of
the Countess of Chichester, the first packet that arrived from
Falmouth, had two shots fired at her, when going on shore with Mr.
Pousset, the vice-consul. Captain Little, who was on board the
packet at the time, not knowing what to make of this firing, ordered
the guns to be double-shotted, and the crew to get under arms. A
representation was made, and an apology promptly given. Serious
misunderstandings, however, I am persuaded, must, some time or
other, have occurred, had the brig continued outside, and pursued
the same system.
It is only since October, 1821, that the health boat has been
regularly established. The enforcement of the quarantine laws, and
the prevention of smuggling, were the reasons assigned for it; but
there were probably other motives, one of which might be, to
prevent the boats of British men-of-war from boarding vessels of
their own nation before their visit boat. It would, however, be
difficult, strictly to enforce the quarantine laws at Buenos Ayres.
Vessels have frequently arrived at night, or in a fog, and the captains
have come on shore without being visited, not being aware of the
regulations.
The outer and inner roads are, in fact, open roadsteads; neither of
them possessing good anchorage. A strong wind from the E. or S.E.
blowing almost direct on land, is always dangerous; and vessels
often drive. In the storm of the 21st August, 1820, in which sixty
vessels of all descriptions were lost, the wind was at S.E. The winter
season is much better for shipping than the summer; as in the latter,
the wind blows fresh nearly every afternoon from the eastward.
Good anchors and cables are very necessary in the river Plate; chain
cables particularly.
In the outer roads, the average depth of water is 18 feet, in the
inner roads, 18: at high tides, there is 25 feet in the outer, and 13 in
the inner roads. A Pampero wind, blowing off the land from the W.
or W.S.W. causes at times a very low river, leaving not more than 5
feet water in the inner, and 8 in the outer roads. The banks that
divide the roads are then dry, and people ride on horseback upon
them. This extreme low tide does not often happen. The brig
Candidate, salt-laden from the Cape de Verds, was lost, on the 13th
June, 1823, near the Ortiz bank, from an occurrence of this sort: the
water having suddenly left her, she foundered at her anchors. The
state of the tide sometimes causes great delay to vessels leaving the
inner roads; days, and even a week, being lost at some periods.
Pilots, appointed and paid by the government, conduct vessels to
and from the outer and inner roads: two of them are Englishmen,
Lee and Robinson; the others are Portuguese and Creolian, who
speak a little English. The charge for pilotage is about 10 dollars
each way. Masters piloting their own vessels, which is now and then
the case, do not thereby save the charges.
The port of Ensenada, situated 30 miles S.E. from Buenos Ayres, has
good anchorage; and for vessels drawing much water, it is preferable
to go thither. They incur more experience of lighterage, if they
require to be hove down; but it is the only place appertaining to
Buenos Ayres in which it can be done, and the charge is great.
Ensenada is only a small, dull village. Mules are shipped with greater
facility there, than at Buenos Ayres.
The Barraccas is a creek on the south of the town, in which
schooners and small craft repair their defects.
The river Plate may well be called the “hell of navigators:” a survey
of it was made by Captain Heywood, in H.M.S. Nereus, and his
chart, though not exactly correct, is considered to be the best. Buoys
have been lately placed by the government upon the Ortiz and Chico
banks; [2] and they have long had in agitation, the building of a
mole, a dock for shipping, and other extensive works. In addition to
a French engineer, a Quaker gentleman, named Bevans, is engaged.
He arrived from London, with his family, in October, 1822; but, for
want of means, nothing of importance has yet been done. Raising
moles and docks is no trifling undertaking, in a country so destitute
of labourers. To remedy the latter defect, 200 Irishmen, it is said,
are coming out under the care of Colonel O’Brien, one of San
Martin’s officers. Mr. Bevans has been traveling about the country,
for the purpose of collecting information of the requisites necessary
for his undertaking: he has, however, to encounter many obstacles.
A trifling tax on shipping would be cheerfully agreed to for an
undertaking so important.
Several pilot boats cruise about the river Plate, from which pilots
may be obtained.
In addition to the difficulty of large vessels getting up the river, an
adequate freight cannot be procured for them in Buenos Ayres. The
Lord Lynedoch, a ship of 550 tons, with a numerous crew of Lascars,
remained sixteen months and at last took a cargo of mules to the
Isle of France. Vessels of 150 to 200 tons burthen are the most likely
to get employed.
Vessels discharge and take in their cargoes by means of lighters,
called balandras. An English gentleman, Mr. Cope, has several in his
employ, and does the chief part of the English and American
business. Should there be the least swell upon the water, these
lighters cannot lie alongside; it is only in fine weather that work can
be performed.
Boat-hire is dear: to the outer roads, 8 dollars 4 reals, to the inner,
in proportion. The boatmen are mostly Englishmen, strong, active
fellows.
The landing-place, at what was once the mole, is very bad; heavy
boats cannot get near. Carts are used to embark and disembark, for
which there is no fixed charge; they get what they can, like our
watermen at home. Those whose business leads them often afloat,
find it a great tax, and some prefer riding on the backs of their
sailors, to paying it. It is seldom there is water sufficient for boats to
come close in, and they are at all times liable to damage, from the
pieces of rock, wrecks, &c. near the shore.
Buenos Ayres, at the present period, may be said not to possess a
navy; neither, indeed, is so expensive an establishment necessary.
The captain of the port, Don Batista Azopardo, is an Italian by birth;
he is said to be a well-meaning man. He commanded an armed
vessel in the last war, and has been once or twice a prisoner to the
English. There are likewise a number of marine officers in the service
of Buenos Ayres. The Aranzazu, national brig of war, so long
anchored in the outer roads, has a crew chiefly English; some of
them are refractory seamen from the merchant vessels. The marines
are black soldiers.

There are three regular packets which run between Buenos Ayres
and Monte Video; the Pepa, Dolores, and Mosca, schooners.
Seventeen dollars are charged for the passage each way, every thing
being provided, except beds. This passage, which is about 150
miles, is sometimes made in 12 or 14 hours; at others, it takes
several days. The favourite packet is the Pepa, an American-built
schooner, with good accommodations, commanded by Campbell, an
Englishman, who, from his skill and attention, is peculiarly fitted for
such an employment.
The CLIMATE of Buenos Ayres, taken generally, is decidedly good, and
more congenial to English habits than that most places abroad. Its
salubrity, however, is overrated: a consumptive person must not
think of coming here; many of that class have been obliged to fly to
Mendoza and other climes, to escape the vicisitudes of this.
The spring months of September, October, November, and the
autumn ones of April and May, are the most agreeable parts of the
year. The thermometer, at those seasons, averages about 60; and
we have repeated clear and bracing weather, intermingled, however,
with inclement days.
The summer is not so hot as the latitude would denote. A sea breeze
sets in, at times, towards the afternoon; but this is not regular.
December and January are the hottest months. On some days of
oppressive heat, the thermometer may average 80, and at others,
the pleasing temperature of 70 and 75. In January, 1824, for nearly
a week it was 96 in the shade: the oldest inhabitant never
remembered such a continuance of heat. When the heat is at the
greatest, a pampero suddenly comes, with its accompaniment of
rain, thunder and lightning, and cools the air. These Pampero winds
from the W. and W.S.W. with nothing to impede their progress
across the extended Pampas, blow with great violence, raising
clouds of dust, and obliging every one to close windows and doors.
Being off the land, they are not dangerous to shipping; though
vessels at the mouth of the river have been blown in sea hundreds
of miles, by a Pampero. The thunder and lightning to an European is
terrific: the lightning is often dangerous.
The dust, fleas, and musquitos, render the summer months very
disagreeable. The fleas are a great annoyance, the houses being
filled with them; the very dust breeds them; and they seem to have
a great partiality for foreigners. I don’t observe that the natives heed
them. They laugh at the English mode of washing the rooms to get
rid of these vermin; their plan is, to strew the room with fennel,
sweeping that and the fleas altogether into the street. Musquitos are
another of the disagreeables.
A north wind, in summer, is very unpleasant, the heated atmosphere
relaxing both mind and body. The combined effects of heat, dust,
and wind, make the enjoyment of an evening promenade extremely
precarious.
In summer, the pastures frequently catch fire, from the intenseness
of the heat. In 1821, Mr. Halsey, an American gentleman, who has a
large sheep farm, sustained a considerable loss by an event of this
kind, many of his sheep having been burnt. The same heat that
occasioned Mr. Halsey’s loss brought on a violent Pampero; and,
from the dust and burning ashes that enveloped the city, one might
have supposed that the days of Herculaneum and Pompeii were
about to return.
The winter is mild, yet there are days of piercing cold in the months
of June, July, and August; and thin ice may be seen in the morning,
but not any snow. We have here the penetrating rains, mists, and
November days of England, without its comforts: from these
circumstances, and the heat of the summer, Englishmen feel the cold
much more than in England, and cling to their fire-sides, for they
have introduced those luxuries, and the natives in some cases follow
our example; otherwise, the ladies wrap themselves up in their
shawls, and the gentlemen in their capotes, and thus pass the
severe days of winter. The thermometer in winter is generally at 40
to 50, sometimes at 35.
The roads, after heavy rains, are nearly impassable, forming
pantanas, or mud holes, which are dangerous to travellers; but, on
the return of fine weather; they quickly dry again. The dead horses
and dogs, that lie about the roads, quickly decay.
The rich pastures afford food to the cattle all the year round. The
winter’s general mildness prevents the necessity of housing them.
That Buenos Ayres possesses a fine climate, no one can deny; but
not to the extent its panegyrists have stated. I speak as I have
found it, having in vain looked for that Italian sky, soul-breathing
softness in the air, that some pretend to have found: but it may be
defined a healthy, warm climate.
The various and sudden changes to which the British climate is
subject, form a fruitful grumbling topic to many Englishmen and
foreigners, who can fancy nothing that is not foreign. According to
their accounts, even the moon shines better here than at home. I
will venture to assert, that we have in England more real fine days in
May, June, July, August, and September, than in the best months at
Buenos Ayres. Of our delightful summer evenings, they have nothing
to compare. To make any contrast of a winter, in latitude 34, and
that of 50, is out of the question.
In this part of South America, earthquakes are only heard of; we
dread not, here, the catastrophes of Peru, Chili, and Mexico.

The prevalent DISEASES of Buenos Ayres are fevers, sore throats,

rheumatism, and others common to Europe. Strangers are subject to
rheumatism from the dampness and searching winds. Sore throats,
in many instances, have been fatal.
It has often been observed, that we feel the effects of free-drinking
here, more than in England. I have experienced this more than
once, and thought it peculiar to myself, till others complained of the
same.

The country round Buenos Ayres is uninteresting; all is dreary

sameness. But where, indeed, shall we find the charming scenery of
our dear England,—its hills and dales, parks, thick-set hedges, and
splendid mansions? We miss, too, that endless chirping of birds, ever
heard in our thick-set hedges. Here, the equestrian takes his ride
merely for the sake of exercise, and not from any pleasure the
country can afford. I did not expect to find villas, parks, and
cultivated grounds; but I thought it would be more diversified.
In a place where horses are so cheap, one might conclude that
Englishmen would be continually on horseback, but they soon get
tired of a recreation, in which nothing but exercise is concerned. The
most frequented ride is to the village of Isidro, fifteen miles from the
city, the Richmond of this place. On Sundays and holidays much
company resort thither. It has some attractions in point of scenery.
The Barracca road is good—upon a par with those of England.
Horse-racing and other sports are practised there, both by
Englishmen and natives.
A ride in the neighbourhood of Buenos Ayres is not, however,
entirely devoid of interest; especially in the fruit season, when the
quintas, or farm-houses, with the peach trees weighed down by
delicious fruit, the orange trees (though this is not their soil), and
the wild aloe, so common in this and the opposite continent of
Africa, afford an agreeable prospect. But the wild rose, blackberries,
and the mass of roots and plants of English fields and hedges, are
not to be seen. The trees (if they can be called so) are of a nature
so dwarfish, that they seem like apologies for trees, stinted in their
growth by bad nursing.

The Alameda, or public walk of Buenos Ayres, is upon the beach,

near the mole. It is totally unworthy such a city, and in the
neighbourhood of all the rabble of the town. It is only about 200
yards in length, with rows of trees the height of bushes on each
side, and brick seats, which are too much honoured by the fair forms
that use them. A moderate assemblage frequent this walk on
Sunday evenings: the beauty and dress of the females could alone
tempt a stranger to visit it. On other days it is deserted, except by
some elderly gentlemen, who, as in our St. James’s Park and
Kensington Gardens, are glad to escape from the multitude, and
commune with themselves.

The beach well deserves its nick-name of Wapping; being crowded

with sailors of all nations, grog-shops, stores, &c. The English sailors
idling about the beach would man a ship of war. A stranger, seeing
so many English faces, might suppose it an English colony. At night,
the sailors in the grog-shops dance, to the music of the fiddle and
flute, reels, and the College hornpipe in perfection, astonishing the
Spanish girls. At one of these pulperias, or grog-shops, on the
beach, a large picture was lately hoisted, of H.M.S. Boyne in full sail,
flags, signals, &c. streaming. The English sailors mustered in great
numbers upon this occasion, and rent the air with their cheers.
The seamen upon the beach are, at times, disorderly; but not more
so than in other countries. American sailors have been the most
refractory, causing their captains infinite trouble. The captain of an
American ship going to sea, lately, made application to the captain of
one of our packets, for irons, to punish his mutinous crew; but he
replied, that he never had such articles on board his ship.
In no part of the world are masters of vessels subject to such
annoyance from the desertion of their crews. [3] Men get into the
hands of crimps, who conceal them, and exact their own price from
those who are in want of sailors. This has been in some measure
rectified lately, especially since the suppression of privateering. Many
sailors roam about the country, working as labourers; but they soon
get tired of that, and hanker after their old employment, as an old
coachman likes to hear the smack of the whip. These “beach-
rangers,” as they are called, have often wished to enter for his
majesty’s ships that have been lying off Buenos Ayres; but few or
none have been accepted. Sailors begin to find there is no service
equal to our’s.
There are two English COFFEE-HOUSES, or HOTELS; Faunch’s, and Keen’s.
The former is a very superior one, and provides the dinners given
upon our national days, such as St. George’s, St. Andrew’s, &c.
besides numerous private dinners of Englishmen, Americans,
Creolians, &c. It is situated near the Fort. Faunch, the master, and
his wife, have had great experience in their profession in London;
and the style of his dinners is hardly to be exceeded there. The
king’s birth-day dinner is kept up with great éclat: the room is
surrounded by flags of different nations; and they have both vocal
and instrumental music. From 70 to 80 persons generally sit down to
table, including the ministers of the country, who are always invited.
The government pay us the compliment of hoisting the flag at the
Fort, on that day.
Another hotel, kept by a respectable North-American female, Mrs.
Thorn, a widow, is much resorted to by the Americans.
In the above coffee-houses, they charge 40 dollars per month for
board and lodging. An abatement is made to those who agree to
remain a certain period. Dinner for one person, including a pint of
wine, is a dollar; breakfast, tea, and supper, from 2 to 4 reals each;
and a bed per night, 4 reals.
On the beach, near the Fort, is a tavern, or eating-house, called the
Commercial Hotel; the master of which is a Spaniard, but most of
the waiters and servants are French: they have, likewise, an English
waiter. Dishes of all sorts can be procured there. To dine well, the
price amounts to nearly the same as at other taverns. The large
dining-room will accommodate from 70 to 80 persons, and is neatly
fitted up. Pictures of the battle of Alexandria, the storming of
Seringapatam; portraits of the French Marshals, Bertrand, Drouet,
Foy, &c.; and views of Paris and other cities, are suspended round
the room.
The Café de la Victoria, in Buenos Ayres, is very splendid; we have
nothing of the sort in London. It may not perhaps vie with the Mille
Colonnes, or other Parisian coffee-houses. There are, likewise, in
Buenos Ayres, those of St. Marco, the Catalan, and Café de Martin.
They have all large court-yards, or patios, attached to them, and
stand upon a great space of ground, more than could be well spared
in London for such purposes, where land is so valuable. These
patios, in summer, are covered with awnings, affording an agreeable
retreat from the sun’s heat. They have wells of good water. To each
also is attached a billiard table; and, as this is a pastime to which
they are much addicted, the tables are always crowded. The coffee-
rooms are covered with shewy French paper, representing scenes in
India, Otaheite, Don Quixote, and designs from Grecian and Roman
history.
A new coffee-house was opened in December, 1824, near the church
of St. Michael. The music, illuminations, and fireworks, in front of the
establishment, on the evening of its opening, attracted a great
concourse of people.
About four miles from town is a public-house called the York Hotel,
kept by a native. Creolian masters and mates of vessels, upon their
hired horses, at one dollar per afternoon, generally stop there; and
the horses are so accustomed to it, that it is with difficulty they will
go beyond it.
In the coffee-houses the charges are very moderate: a wine-glass of
liqueurs, brandy, or any other cordial, tea, coffee, and bread, half a
real; with toast, one real. The waiters do not expect fees, as in
England: a capitas, or head waiter, superintends the coffee-room. [4]
In the arrangements and decoration of coffee-houses, the French
and Spaniards far outstrip us. The English are not a coffee-house-
going people: that time which other nations spend in them, the
Englishman passes in business, or with his family.
Many Englishmen, upon their first arrival, reside with Spanish
families, to improve themselves in the language: forty dollars per
month is the charge. The houses of Mrs. Cassamajor and Mrs. Rubio
take in boarders; these families are of the highest respectability, and
they have several accomplished daughters, whose society is very
interesting; but Spanish cookery, with its garlic and grease, no more
pleases an English taste, than does that of the French.

Of the Public Buildings, the Fort is the seat of government, the

Downing-Street of Buenos Ayres: it is situated near the river, with
residences inside. Though surrounded by a ditch, with cannon
mounted on the ramparts, drawbridges, &c. it could make but little
defence against a serious attack. One would suppose, that those
who chose the spot on which the city is built, had in view the
prevention of attack by hostile fleets, the shallowness of the water
being a defence against any danger of this kind.
The Consulado is a respectable-looking house; it contains a Court of
Justice, or Appeals, for persons cited for debt, of which they regulate
the payment according to the ability of the party summoned, very
similar to our Courts of Request. In cases of debt they are very
lenient, seldom committing to prison, except for a flagrant attempt
at fraud, and sometimes giving the debtor five years to pay his
creditors, which is almost tantamount to a release. Disputes are
decided by the magistrates, at the Consulado, with an impartiality
that gives universal satisfaction. The English disputants, it has been
observed, are very numerous, causing more trouble than those of all
the rest of the town put together. The Post-Office is held in this
building; and on the first floor (for the house is one story high) is a
Music School, in the morning for young ladies, and in the evening for
gentlemen.
The Cabildo, or Town-House, has nothing remarkable about it, but
the church tower, and a long balcony in front: it is built in the Plaza,
of which it forms the western boundary. The great powers possessed
by the Members of the Cabildo, according to the old Spanish law,
have been reformed within these three years. It has a prison for
criminal offenders; and the head Police-Office is near it.
The Bank, and the adjoining range of houses, are lofty and
handsome.
The House of Representatives has been lately constructed; it follows
the model, on a minor scale, of the French Chamber at Paris, and
forms a perfect theatre. The members are seated in the pit, the
president and secretary on the stage, and the spectators in the
boxes. A bell announces the commencement and the close of
business. The orators, when speaking, remain seated; so that they
have no opportunity to display the graces of action. It is well lighted,
by tasteful chandeliers. The armed soldiery, both inside and outside
the house, destroys the idea of republicanism.
The Custom-House has no pretensions to notice, on the score of
appearance, whatever it may merit for its convenience. It was
proposed to build another, in the extensive grounds and gardens of
the suppressed monastery of Le Merced; but this, like many other
propositions, has been abandoned.
The Public Library is a credit to this infant state; it contains about
21,000 volumes. Every respectable person is allowed admittance, to
peruse the books. Mr. Moreno, who speaks English, is the librarian.
Some choice drawings of medals from France are in the library.
There is a small Botanical Museum; but the country furnishes few
specimens of plants.
The Retiro, occupied as barracks, is on the north extremity of the
city, and has nothing worthy of notice about it, but its theatrical
appearance, and daubs of paintings on the walls. There is a large
space in front, called the Bull Ring, in which bull-fights used to take
place. The band performs there, for a short time, in the afternoon. It
is here that criminals are shot, when the punishment is not for a
state offence. Being situated upon high ground, and near the river,
the Retiro has a pleasant prospect. In one of the streets near it, is a
large brick building, built for a distillery, twelve years since, by Mr.
Thwaites, an Englishman. The speculation did not answer, and the
house is now in a state of dilapidation. A windmill, west of the town,
is a conspicuous object; it is the only one in the country, and was
erected by Mr. Stroud, also an Englishman. It had, for some time,
the fate of the distillery; but I have heard that it now flourishes.
The Residencia, on the south side of the Fort, is appropriated as an
hospital. There are two or three other public hospitals, including one
for foundlings.

The Grand Plaza is a large square, environed by buildings: on the

east is the Recoba, a piazza with shops; on the west, the Cabildo; on
the north, a part of the cathedral; and on the south, a range of
shops. There is a pyramid in the centre, which, on festival nights, is
illuminated. If paved, it would be an admirable place for the parade
of troops; at present, wet weather renders it almost impassable.
A second Plaza has been made, adjoining the other, near the Fort,
by the removal of the market-place and some dirty sheds and
stabling.
The river, the fort, some neat buildings on the south, the handsome
arch, under which there is a passage to the two plazas, the towers
of St. Francisco’s church, and the Cabildo, taken in perspective from
Faunch’s Hotel, would form a good picture.
At night, the streets are respectably lighted by lamps fastened to the
walls, which extend as far as the eye can reach in some of the
principal thoroughfares, in St. Francisco Street particularly. A
stranger, on viewing this street, would imbibe no mean opinion of
the city. The lamps do not afford any thing like the illumination of
the gas lights of London; they are equal, however, to those used
before the introduction of gas.
From the state of the pavements, except in the principal streets,
walking at night is very disagreeable—in wet weather, dangerous;
and here are no accommodating hackney coaches to jump into.
It is intended to pave all the streets; but, from the scarcity of
workmen and materials, it will be some time before this can be
effected. Those that have pavements, bating their narrowness, are
similar to the streets of London; the unpaved ones are very
miserable.

The HOUSES of Buenos Ayres are mostly built of brick, and white-
washed. Very few of them are one story high: they are flat-roofed,
with a high parapet, and have a court-yard attached. The windows
are protected by iron bars placed lengthwise in the front, so that a
Londoner might fancy them lock-up houses. They form a complete
fortification; and the loss sustained in Whitelock’s attack ceases to
excite surprise, recollecting that our troops had to run the gauntlet
through an enemy they could not get at.
Many of the houses occupy a large extent of ground. The sala is the
principal room. The roofs of the houses, denominated the azotea,
are very pleasant, especially near the river; and the party-walls are
so low, that a person can traverse whole streets upon the house-
tops. The inhabitants do not fear robberies, relying upon the
strength of their doors, iron-barred windows, and barking dogs: of
the latter, two or three are in a house. The bars in the window fronts
are an excellent contrivance, and quite necessary, in a climate
requiring so much air, and likewise for security, the street windows
being close to the foot-path, and no areas to protect them. They
report that this fashion is a remnant of Spanish jealousy; at any rate,
it does their invention credit. Many of the mansions are specimens of
Moorish architecture; those belonging to the richer class are
splendidly furnished with carpets, handsome mirrors, &c. So little
wood is used in building, there is no fear of fire. Extensive houses,
formerly occupied by the first families of the country, are now
tenanted by British merchants; and the salas that were once graced
by beauty, music, and the dance, are now stored with dry goods,
and nothing is heard but the hum of business.
House rent is very high: for a moderate-sized house, from 60 to 80
dollars per month.

Churches.—In Catholic countries, the attention of the Protestant

traveller is ever attracted towards the churches. Their gorgeous
decorations, music, dress of the priesthood, &c. form so great a
contrast to the simplicity of the reformed religion, that we gaze, as if
viewing the splendid scenery of some theatrical spectacle, and, for
the moment, cease to be astonished at the influence which this
imposing church has exercised, and still continues to exercise, over a
great portion of the Christian world. If the Spaniards in Europe are
supposed to surpass all other Catholic nations in their strict
adherence to the rights and ceremonies of “holy church,” they have
not neglected to transplant to South America this formidable engine
of power. The charms of its music, and its general magnificence,
must have bewildered the imagination of the natives, and insured to
the Spaniards complete authority.
I have visited most of the churches of Buenos Ayres, with feelings I
can scarcely describe. My mind was ever strongly imbued with
recollections of those youthful readings of monastic institutions, of
cowled monks and nuns, which, in our Protestant land, we only read
of; but to have the reality before me, absorbed every faculty—I gave
a loose to fancy—every thought was engaged.
I believe the following to be a tolerably correct list of the churches
and chapels in Buenos Ayres:—
The Cathedral.
St. Francisco.
St. Domingo.
St. Ignatio, or College Church.
St. Catalina (Convent of Nuns).
St. Juan (ditto).
St. Nicholas.
St. Miguel.
Residencia.
Montserrat.
La Merced.
La Conception.
Loccaro.
Recolator.
La Piedad.

Chapels.
St. Lucia.
St. Roque.
Hospital.
The Cathedral is a large domed building, built of brick, as indeed
they all are. Its outside presents nothing particular, with the
exception of its loftiness; and, in common with the rest, it has
crosses placed upon every prominent part. A new front is building
towards the Plaza; but it gets on very slowly, the scaffolding being
so very expensive. The interior is lofty and spacious; it is
ornamented with figures of the Virgin Mary and the infant Jesus, in
glittering attire. Jesus on the cross, and saints in strict costume,
occupy places at the different altars. Flowers, artificial and real, are
plentifully bestowed, and relics are strewed in all directions,
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